Keezer Tap Box

[noggins]

I haven't seen anything like this so I thought I'd share my design for my upcoming keezer build(subject to change for no reason at all). I'm nervous about having unguarded taps sticking out of my collar, not only for fear of the little ones playing with them, but also my own clumsiness and potentially bumping into them. I was gonna do a tower but don't want to have to move my keezer out from my wall every time I need to open it up.

The design is a hinged box that latches to the lid and unfolds into a drip tray:

 

[Hello]

I like the idea in theory, I wonder how well it'll stay up over the taps. Also, you have to remember to empty the drip tray before you fold it on back up.

 

[Roadliner]

Sweet idea. My first thought was how it limits your tap handles though. Looks like you'd need to remove them every time, or they would have to be very short.

 

[KegHead]

Neat Concept, Now I'd worry about the kids hitting their heads on the corner...but I'm not sure how old the are.

I'd also worry about the handle clearance and drip try already mentioned. If you're clumsy enough to bump taps, you're also going to spill the drip tray, bump the box, smack the tap handles...etc.

Maybe just put a guard bar in front of the taps, and tap locks on for the kids?

 

[noggins]

Good points from everyone, thanks. Here's a couple quick version 2 mock ups. It's a taller box with a mini-chalkboard behind the taps for labeling, and the bottom stays in place for the drip tray.

2.1 has no hinges, the front top and sides are connected and lift off to be stored elsewhere..

2.2 has hinges, the front and top fold back on top of the lid and the sides fold down. Not sure what to do with it at that point, maybe cover it with chalkboard paint for doodling or use it to hold glasses?

 

[Roadliner]

2.1 is much simpler, but you would have to set the box off to the side.

2.2 means you don't have to store the box, but also that you can't use the top of the keezer for glasses and what not without having to move them every time you cover and uncover.

 

[noggins]

well silly me, now I'm thinking I'd rather do something crazy like this: completely remove the stock lid and hinges and store them in my attic, build a coffin style top box on the backside on top of the keezer, build a custom lid with 270° hinges on front to swing open completely forward. I've always preferred the look of the box-top-tap-thingy, just didn't want to always have to pull the keezer forward away from the wall to be able to open the lid. Then I don't need to worry about locking up the taps at all because they're up and out of the way from little hands and clumsy me.

(I have the collar a different color from the other wood to distinguish it in the images, I'd use the same wood and stain)

 

[Brewenstein]

l like this idea. Do you have a way to hide the hinges, or build them into the build so that they don't look like an afterthought? And what would you put on the top? I can see it getting heavy depending on what you did with it.

 

[noggins]

I imagine the lid would be built something like 2x4's laid down flat for the frame with plywood attached to the top and foam board insulation glued under it so it's reasonably light. The hinges are a bit tricky since they're not just everyday regular hinges and I have no actual experience working with a 270 degree hinge.....but looking on the internets I found these pics which leads me to believe they may be able to be reasonbly well hidden except for the support bars, or completely hidden if I find a hinge strong enough like the second pic

 

[noggins]

oooor I could use a couple sets of standard door hinges to make a double pivot like this, where the end result is only the round hinge pieces showing which can be painted to match.

 

[KegHead]

oooor I could use a couple sets of standard door hinges to make a double pivot like this, where the end result is only the round hinge pieces showing which can be painted to match.

Thatll be a huge air gap and your efficiency will drop quite a bit. Why not just make the top piece slide on and off? It doesnt need to be hinged to the collar at all.

 

[noggins]

Something like this...

(driptray moved to the side when opening)

 

[noggins]

Thatll be a huge air gap and your efficiency will drop quite a bit. Why not just make the top piece slide on and off? It doesnt need to be hinged to the collar at all.

the gaps you see in those images are for illustration purposes only, the gap would be filled with a type of foam weatherstripping, just like most fridges. I'm sure I'll start with the lid not attached to anything, and will work my way up to the crazy hinged system.

 

[Roadliner]

I like this forward hinging door idea. that could be sharp

 

[AkBrew907]

Something like this...


(driptray moved to the side when opening)

This has my vote. Looks good.


You doing the drawings in google sketchup?

 

[noggins]

cinema4d, I've tried tons of apps but I always go back to that one, probably because it's the one I learned first so everything else just feels wrong.

 

[Ozarks Mountain Brewery]

I threw this together real quick for a wedding and liked the hight, was tired of bending down to get a beer so I just kept it and put it in a corner, nothings painted or beautified yet but best decision Ive made on hight

 

[noggins]

the gaps you see in those images are for illustration purposes only, the gap would be filled with a type of foam weatherstripping, just like most fridges. I'm sure I'll start with the lid not attached to anything, and will work my way up to the crazy hinged system.

or better yet if I knew what I was doing I'd carve spaces into the wood for the hinges to sit flush so there's no gap at all

 

[KegHead]

or better yet if I knew what I was doing I'd carve spaces into the wood for the hinges to sit flush so there's no gap at all

This is what i would do. A router will make easy work of recessing hinges to an extent. You will always see a little gap. Trim hides a lot as well.