Keezer modification idea

[mendozer]

So last week I was being an idiot and was chiseling ice off the top of my keezer (it was holding the kegs stuck) and hit a coolant line! So that thing is dead now. I ordered one online already, but was curious about something.

I've always done the collar mounted to the lid and having that as the "lid". However, it's a pain to open while simultaneously lifting a keg over the side as the hinges don't usually support the weight of the whole thing. But now I have two more hinges (dead freezer). I wonder if I can JB weld the other two hinges to the new freezer so it'll have four. Thing that will support the collar in a full open position?

Otherwise, I'm thinking of keeping the collar on the freezer this time around (this will be keezer #3) for ease. I won't need a huge collar, maybe 4-5 inches, just for the taps, PC fan, and regulator setup basically. I was going to do 2x6 trimmed down for the base with pink foam inside and decorate the outer trim with some Beetle Pine I have. So 1.5" base + 1" foam + 3/4" pine board. I currently have the 3 1/8" shanks with the MFL adapter. I plan to reuse those to save $$$. If I do the 2x6 base frame, I'll have to route a recessed section to use them or else it'll be too thick. But is 2x really needed? My last two used 1x10 pine and they were fine. And I've never done the foam either so this will be better regardless.

So...basically I wanted some input on:

1) is having the collar bottom mounted really that much better? (otherwise I was planning for a flush trim)

2) who here is running two fans? I'm assuming that a bigger freezer will help with the freezing problem, but just curious. I'm running a 80mm AC fan

 

[mongoose33]

I don't mount the collar on the bottom; it just sits on pickup truck bed tape and it is just fine.

You might look here and see if you get an idea or two about the length of shanks. I don't run the shanks through the foamboard. I think that helps in keeping the faucets cold so I don't get as much foam.

I think I'd router out the area where the shanks go. i think you'll be happier with a 2x6 or thereabouts than something cut down.

What I've done is a 2x4 and then a 1x8" facade to pretty things up.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/easy-peasy-no-glue-keezer-build-with-lots-of-pics.632550/

 

[mendozer]

truck bed tape? Never heard of using that before. Interesting. Do you think this would work WITHOUT the face panel? Part of my desire was to have it flush with lid and bottom lines for visual appeal. I suppose I could silicone it down since that's easily removable. However having the option to remove the collar for cleaning it out sounds nice. One design I thought of was four "claws" that are mitered angles only mounted at the corners so it's like four fingers coming down, holding it onto the bottom. Otherwise I was thinking of a recessed lip on the inside near the angle where it changes contour (you know where the flat part on the top of the side wall angles down once or twice to the metal wall). Would be much more difficult to make this.

As far as keeping the shanks cold, that makes sense. I use 1/4" bore shanks with 3/16 line, but I haven't noticed foaming issues (asides from ginger ale, that gets tricky sometimes)

 

[mongoose33]

truck bed tape? Never heard of using that before. Interesting. Do you think this would work WITHOUT the face panel?

I suspect it would. I used some pretty sketchy 2x6's so something to dress it up seemed reasonable.

But I think there's another reason to add the facade. It provides a "stop" on both sides and the front. The collar can't slide left or right or back. Doing that also adds a bit of heft to the collar, which helps it sit squarely while the lid is being lifted.

Part of my desire was to have it flush with lid and bottom lines for visual appeal. I suppose I could silicone it down since that's easily removable. However having the option to remove the collar for cleaning it out sounds nice. One design I thought of was four "claws" that are mitered angles only mounted at the corners so it's like four fingers coming down, holding it onto the bottom. Otherwise I was thinking of a recessed lip on the inside near the angle where it changes contour (you know where the flat part on the top of the side wall angles down once or twice to the metal wall). Would be much more difficult to make this.

A lip on the inside would serve the same purpose as the facade. And frankly, you could just do that in the corners so it didn't reduce the area inside the collar making it harder to lift kegs in and out.

As far as keeping the shanks cold, that makes sense. I use 1/4" bore shanks with 3/16 line, but I haven't noticed foaming issues (asides from ginger ale, that gets tricky sometimes)

I realized the Easy Peasy link doesn't show the inside foam board. Here's one that shows my own keezer and what I did to put insulation between the shanks:

 

[mendozer]

thanks for the replies. I just thought of something unique, neodymium magnets inset the 2x collar base, then another on the freezer size, siliconed down. Unless there's enough metal to grab. Then it's removable and flush, without impeding internal corner space

 

[mendozer]

what do you think of this? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Quick-Roof-1-84-lbs-Epdm-Seam-Tape-BST325/202267104

EPDM tape. Most camper seals I'm finding for quick sale are pvc foam

 

[mongoose33]

what do you think of this? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Quick-Roof-1-84-lbs-Epdm-Seam-Tape-BST325/202267104

EPDM tape. Most camper seals I'm finding for quick sale are pvc foam

I think that's better than the foam. The seal I have is a thick closed-cell type of seal, and works well. The material you note above is probably ok.

Here's what's on mine:

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/ameriseal-camper-top-seal-2-w-x-3-16-h-x-22-l-12000/10017527-P

Yeah, not cheap. Don't know if you can find it cheaper elsewhere.