Keezer Build Questions

[d40dave]

I bought a Midea chest freezer for a keezer. It has both a freezer and refridger mode. It seems like I can fairly actuatly sent the temperature. Should I get a temperature controller anyway?

Also, is there a minimum amout of space between the top of the highest keg and the lid?

And is a fan neccesary?

Thanks

 

[day_trippr]

I looked at their 7 cf convertible chest freezer on the midea.com site and in "fridge mode" it claims a working range of 33.8°F to 50°F. If that's accurate it would obviate the need for an external controller, imo.

That said, pictures of the interior do not reveal anything that would provide air-flow inside the cabinet (no grills/grates/registers to be seen) which means stratification is likely and a fan may well be needed for optimal performance.

As for the space thing, if you can close the lid with QDs attached to all kegs you're good to go

Cheers!

 

[bailey mountain brewer]

Agree with @day_trippr on all accounts, I have 2 keezers and the only difference is the wood I used to make the collar, the first one I used 2x4 and the second I used 2x6 that is much prettier. The obvious difference this made was the overall height, and when it comes time to clean up the bottom of them, the 2x4 one is easier to reach. This is really only a problem if my wife is the one cleaning, though I typically take on that task. I am 6foot so I can reach the entire bottom of both without a stool or anything. Just something to consider when deciding on what height and clearance you want.

 

[Deadalus]

If you also have plans to ferment in it I would suggest getting the controller. I used to do it that way but it's something of a hassle though as many people serve at lower temperatures than lager fermentation ranges.

 

[JohnDBrewer]

I went 2x6, or maybe it's 2x8, for the collar too on my second build. Gives plenty room on the hump to put kegs. As for cleaning the bottom, I just use a mop, no leaning over, etc. to get to the bottom.

 

[Willy]

Yes to fan.

I used a 2*6 for the collar and the extra height is great. The collar extends the height about 5 1/4 "

To make it better looking, I put a 1*12" board on the outside of the keezer - it goes to the top of the 2*6 and is fastened from inside screws. Stained and finished with a matte coat of urethane. Looks much nicer for the cost of a board ($10-20)

 

[Skunkape71]

I recently did this myself, with the thought that I wouldn't have to deal with a temp controller. Long story short, I opted to still put a wifi inkbird on it. It's nice to be able to monitor temps from my phone. I had a seed heating mat in mine, but with the extremely cold temps as of late, figured out real quick that the mat wasn't cutting it. I ended up putting a desk top/cubicle heater in it and it's worked awesome. I doubt it would be much of an issue if in a controlled environment. Mine has a little different use than most. I have mine on an outdoor covered patio, so it will be exposed to the elements. I made a roll around base, as we have an outdoor kitchen. Nice to be able to move it to sweep/clean around. I did a 2x10 collar, as I wanted it to stand a bit taller. I'm 6'6" and didn't want to bend over.. I can't reach the bottom, but not too concerned with it at this point. Still need to come up with a good idea for a drip tray.. I'm probably going to go with black pipe and flanges. Oh yeah, you will definitely need a fan in it to move air as well..

 

[BongoYodeler]

I recently did this myself, with the thought that I wouldn't have to deal with a temp controller. Long story short, I opted to still put a wifi inkbird on it. It's nice to be able to monitor temps from my phone. I had a seed heating mat in mine, but with the extremely cold temps as of late, figured out real quick that the mat wasn't cutting it. I ended up putting a desk top/cubicle heater in it and it's worked awesome. I doubt it would be much of an issue if in a controlled environment. Mine has a little different use than most. I have mine on an outdoor covered patio, so it will be exposed to the elements. I made a roll around base, as we have an outdoor kitchen. Nice to be able to move it to sweep/clean around. I did a 2x10 collar, as I wanted it to stand a bit taller. I'm 6'6" and didn't want to bend over.. I can't reach the bottom, but not too concerned with it at this point. Still need to come up with a good idea for a drip tray.. I'm probably going to go with black pipe and flanges. Oh yeah, you will definitely need a fan in it to move air as well..

Looks nice. Like you, I also added a 2x10 collar to mine, and also put mine on casters like you did. I keep mine in my garage, but I have a sidewalk that extends from the front of my house to our back patio. This allows me to easily roll it out back and plug it in on our patio for parties. Oh, and I double-hinged it so I can lift the top for quick access, or life the entire collar for lifting kegs in, since I'm not 6'6"

 

[AlexKay]

The solution I’ve settled on for air circulation in a keezer is a “false bottom”:

• Cut a piece of plywood so that it will fit in the bottom of the freezer (with cutouts if necessary to avoid a compressor hump)
• Use a hole saw to make 120mm or 140mm holes in the places you expect to be between the kegs
• Paint with an outdoor-use paint
• Mount waterproof PC case fans like these to the underside of the plywood (I cannot stress enough that DC waterproof fans be used)
• Power fans using a PC fan speed controller
• Attach little pieces of 2x4s or similar to the underside of the plywood as legs, to stand it and the fans ~4” off of the freezer bottom

I like to have the fans in a push-pull setup; for example, one keezer has two on the outside blowing up, and one on the inside blowing down. This is probably not needed.

 

[Closet Fermenter]

Used to be a strain for me, (5’9”) to get kegs just into the unmodified chest freezer. Lifting wasn’t near the strain as leaning over and lowering them.
I solved this with an eye hook into the ceiling joist, and a $15 Harbor Freight deer hoist. I can now easily raise a 10 gallon keg up and gently lower it into the freezer.
I am thinking about adding a collar, and had not considered the issue of reaching the bottom for cleaning. Glad you fellas pointed that out.

 

[BongoYodeler]

Used to be a strain for me, (5’9”) to get kegs just into the unmodified chest freezer. Lifting wasn’t near the strain as leaning over and lowering them.
I solved this with an eye hook into the ceiling joist, and a $15 Harbor Freight deer hoist. I can now easily raise a 10 gallon keg up and gently lower it into the freezer.
I am thinking about adding a collar, and had not considered the issue of reaching the bottom for cleaning. Glad you fellas pointed that out.

I also added the optional deer hoist, (gambrel), after tweaking my back lowering full kegs into the keezer.

 

[JohnDBrewer]

The solution I’ve settled on for air circulation in a keezer is a “false bottom”

I like the idea, as long as it is easy to clean under, leaks, spills and condensation happen.

 

[day_trippr]

I prefer a nice smooth keezer floor for keeping things clean and neat, with a big fan perched on the hump blowing horizontally the length of it. I have instrumentation that shows there's little difference between the temperature at the floor level vs just under the closed lid...

Cheers!

 

[AlexKay]

I like the idea, as long as it is easy to clean under, leaks, spills and condensation happen.

It is not easy.

My future attempts will probably include an eyebolt, pull cord, or something that allows me to pull it out.

 

[mac_1103]

My future attempts will probably include an eyebolt, pull cord, or something that allows me to pull it out.

I'm thinking scissor lift. Go big or go home!

 

[AlexKay]

Now that I think about it, a small eyebolt in the false bottom, another small one in the collar, and leave a cord of some sort connected. Easy to pull up the.