Just finished my HERMS controller

[tannnick]

Ok, i am in a very similar situation. I like this build and am doing something very similar. I am actually putting 2 love controllers in the box. from there it will go to a toggle switch then to some sort of connection/receptacle.

A couple questions. Do I have to use a toggle switch with a neutral line? Or can I use a SPST? Also, I am confused a bit, can I have 2 love's control each of the slots on 1 receptacle? Or do I have to use separate outlet/receptacles?

 

[EvilGnome6]

The neutral line is just to make the lighted rocker switch work. You can do without that if you want.

Receptacles can be split by breaking off the tabs connecting the two outlets. Once that is done they can be controlled independently.

 

[slakwhere]

so are you controlling the pump or the heater with the love? where is your temp probe, in the mash or in the herms bucket?

just curious if you're managing the herms water or the MLT and how you compensate for the other...

 

[EvilGnome6]

The heater is controlled by the Love. The pump is manually switched. The temperature probe is in the return line from the heat exchanger to the mash tun.

 

[slakwhere]

so you're setting the bucket to your target mash temp, you're running the pump non stop and you're taking the temp of the wort as it exits the heat exchanger.

have you given any thought to monitoring the temp of the mash instead? or perhaps before it runs through the hex? i'd think i'd be more worried about the gallons of wort and grain being the right temp instead of just what's coming out of the hex.

 

[EvilGnome6]

so you're setting the bucket to your target mash temp, you're running the pump non stop and you're taking the temp of the wort as it exits the heat exchanger.

Correct.

have you given any thought to monitoring the temp of the mash instead? or perhaps before it runs through the hex? i'd think i'd be more worried about the gallons of wort and grain being the right temp instead of just what's coming out of the hex.

Of course I've thought of monitoring the temp of the mash. I have a separate thermometer with the probe inside the mash tun. That doesn't mean it's the right place to control the heat exchanger. If you did, you'd constantly be overshooting your temps. Think about it.

 

[dunleav1]

Very nice build and thanks for taking us along.

I'm thinking of automating my HERMS and I'm wondering why you went with the Love controller as opposed to an Auber PID?

 

[EvilGnome6]

I'm thinking of automating my HERMS and I'm wondering why you went with the Love controller as opposed to an Auber PID?

The Love controller can handle 16A, which is enough for the 1500W heater element I'm using. I think the PID would need an SSR, plus a little more know-how to configure. I don't think either would be the wrong choice, but I opted for price and simplicity.

 

[dunleav1]

The Love controller can handle 16A, which is enough for the 1500W heater element I'm using. I think the PID would need an SSR, plus a little more know-how to configure. I don't think either would be the wrong choice, but I opted for price and simplicity.

I have three Love's on the cold side of my brewery so I'm familiar with them.
My panel on my stand is pretty small, so the Love's size would work well for me.

Right now with my stand I can direct gas fire RIMS or direct gas fire HERMS.
I'm building an electric HEX tube with a 1500W element that I can use to either RIMS or HERMS and so I can automate regulating my Mash tun temperature.

I don't understand the worry about big temperature fluctuations. If your probe is on the output side of your HERMS or RIMS you can never overshoot your temperature target for your mash. I understand the PID gives less or more heat but does it really matter if you are measuring the temperature in the right place?

 

[EvilGnome6]

I don't understand the worry about big temperature fluctuations. If your probe is on the output side of your HERMS or RIMS you can never overshoot your temperature target for your mash. I understand the PID gives less or more heat but does it really matter if you are measuring the temperature in the right place?

The output side of the HERMS or RIMS is the best place to put the temperature probe. Placing it in the mash tun or the mash exit would lead to overshooting.

 

[slakwhere]

i see what you're saying. if the output of the hex is 153 (your target temp) then you just let the pump run and assume the rest of the mash will hit that temp eventually. when it goes to 152 the pid flicks on and heats the bucket enough that the hex output becomes 153 again.

 

[tannnick]

Question about the box: On the holes for the receptacles, did you drill a hole, with a hole saw bit or step bit, and then dremel outward to create the roundness? I created my box, almost identical, but saw your idea for the receptacles and now I am trying to incorporate that into my box. Thank you! For the rectangle holes, i used a step bit and a jig saw. It worked well. Drilled some holes, and cut it out using the jigsaw.

 

[EvilGnome6]

Question about the box: On the holes for the receptacles, did you drill a hole, with a hole saw bit or step bit, and then dremel outward to create the roundness?

I used a Dremel with a router bit and then cleaned it up with a file. It was really messy and noisy but I haven't figured out a better way.

 

[slakwhere]

you could always just put faceplates over the plug...

http://images.lowes.com/product/converted/022788/022788642180lg.jpg

 

[pennisim]

I am thinking about a similar build...
what sort sort of plug are you plugging this into?
I am trying to determine if my circuit could handle this.

 

[big_al_in_k-zoo]

I just bout the same element. I can't tell which post is HOT or Neutral? And how did you ground it? there isn't a ground post either....Thanks!

 

[CodeRage]

Either post could be used for Hot/Neutral, there is no polarity.

Ground is normally attached to the chassis the element is threaded into. Say you have a welded coupler on your pot and the element threads into that. You could put the ground onto the pot somewhere.

 

[mattyb85]

yeah im interested in doing something like this for my HLT cooler with a HERMS coil, by the looks of your controller box you are using a standard 3 prong grounded plug on the element like what you might find on any regular power strip. am i correct?

 

[EvilGnome6]

yeah im interested in doing something like this for my HLT cooler with a HERMS coil, by the looks of your controller box you are using a standard 3 prong grounded plug on the element like what you might find on any regular power strip. am i correct?

Correct. Just make sure that all the wires, outlets and power cords you use can handle the current.

 

[bmick]

Either post could be used for Hot/Neutral, there is no polarity.

Ground is normally attached to the chassis the element is threaded into. Say you have a welded coupler on your pot and the element threads into that. You could put the ground onto the pot somewhere.

I'm doing a similar (same) build. If I install an element into a cooler, where would I ground it then, as there's no metal? Just onto a screw drilled into the body of the cooler, maybe with a sizeable washer?

 

[EvilGnome6]

I attached it to the nut that's underneath the black plastic piece. That's actually the outside shell of the element and would be the same grounding point as attaching it to the body of a steel pot.

 

[rodduley]

I don't quite understand how you attached your ground to the "nut". I can't tell from the pic. There are no wires in place. Could you explain in a little more detail. I'm looking to do somthing similar.

 

[tannnick]

You need to create a grounded box around the element. I took a small round metal junction box and drilled a big enough hole through a very skinny metal faceplate and slide the element through it leaving the exposed side inside the box connected to a 3wire cord coming out the back or side of the box. Ground to the box. Screw the face plate on the box and now you have a protected, non exposed, grounded element. That will secure your equip. I can post a pic Tuesday.

 

[rodduley]

Thanks, I would love to see pics of this.

 

[tannnick]

If you look here, this is where I saw it. I just made another one. These are great.

 

[mattyb85]

Does anyone else keep getting notifications for this thread saying there's been new posts?

 

[EvilGnome6]

I don't quite understand how you attached your ground to the "nut". I can't tell from the pic. There are no wires in place. Could you explain in a little more detail. I'm looking to do somthing similar.

Th power cable is routed through a hole in the side of the cooler (running through the insulated bottom). The ground lead is wedged up against the nut. A zip tie is wrapped around the brown casing and keeps the ground lead from popping out of place. I can't advise anyone to do it that way. Do it right and use the grounded box described above.

And for goodness sakes, always use a GFCI if you're dealing with electricity and water.

 

[tannnick]

I likewise did this for a while. On a keggle, I had the exposed wires out the back and the ground shoved into the little hole on the bottom of the keg. One slip and that kegs becomes charged with 240v. Not fun. Ive made quite a few of these boxes and they come out really well. and is fairly easy.

 

[EvilGnome6]

I likewise did this for a while. On a keggle, I had the exposed wires out the back and the ground shoved into the little hole on the bottom of the keg. One slip and that kegs becomes charged with 240v. Not fun. Ive made quite a few of these boxes and they come out really well. and is fairly easy.

Yeah, at least with the plastic cooler sitting on my wooden stand, the worst thing that can happen when the ground lead pops loose is that it shorts out the hot lead and trips the GFCI. Still, do it right. Please.

 

[disney7]

EvilGnome, I'm working on a setup like yours and I have a couple of questions.

Do you know how hot your water bath in the hex gets for a typical (say 152F) mash? Of course I guess you try to get the mash pretty close to the target temp before recirculating through the hex, right?

I've been doing some tests with mine, mostly playing with my PID controller and have been running the bath up to 170F. The cooler and my agitation pump don't seem to mind it.

Also, I use a rectangular mash tun cooler and a braid, so this may be more of an issue for me than you, but do you think there is any issue with channeling from a single dump into the tun? I'm wondering if I should build a sprinkler or something to make sure the heated wort from the hex is being distributed well and raising the entire mash temp and not just a section of it.

Thanks!