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Just finished brewing my first Helles. SG and ph issues.

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blkandrust

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Grain bill was 8.5lbs German Pils and 1lb Munich1.Had a target SG of 1.051,ended up with 1.044 for an efficiency of 69%. I typically get 80% on my system. I did a step mash,but my ph was high,6.2.I'm thinking the high ph affected conversion.How will this affect final product?
 
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A somewhat dull beer more than likely.
For something like this I use soft water with calcium salts balanced or just a bit extra gypsum by weight.
Mash between 145F-150F for 15-20mins, then step up to 152F-155F for a total mash time of 90mins. Lauter, mash out, then boil.
Extend your mash a bit longer and treat your water. I quit doing 60 minute mashes and the extra time definitely helped.
 
I typically brew with filtered well water. For this brew I used Food lion water as I figured it would be softer than my water.I have ordered a Water report through Ward as I plan on spending some time getting my water right. I mashed at 122F for 20 min,149 F for 30min,158F for 30 min then mashed out at 170.Boiled for 90 mins.
 
My brewing water is Poland Spring water bought in 1gal jugs.
It's on the soft side and treated with a bit of calcium salts. It's great starting water for light beers and is way superior to my tap water. I usually get Dingemans Pilsner and a mix of Vienna and Munich 10 with white wheat for retention.
The only time I've tried a mash under 122F is for a ferulic acid rest near 110F-115F for weissbier.
If your grains are reliable, the only thing I could think of might be the water.
 
Here's a Brulosophy experiment regarding mash pH.
It has some interesting conclusions but the mash pH wasn't quite as high as yours.
http://brulosophy.com/2017/07/24/wa...e-impact-of-high-mash-ph-exbeeriment-results/

Mash pH should be near 5.2-5.6 for best enzymatic activity to promote conversion. Like I said, dealing with alkalinity by adding calcium salts can help. So can adding a bit of acid or sauermalz to the mash but that really depends on your style of beer and the water profile you're using.
There's currently also a thread and poll concerning pH meter use during the brew process, check it out. It popped up just yesterday.
 
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Awesome!! Thanks for all the info,I greatly appreciate it. My brewing process is really solid,now I am going to focus on my water. I brew good beer,but would like to progress to great beer. Thanks again.
 
What is Food Lion water? Was it distilled? You shouldn’t have ended up with a PH that high if it was, it must have had a solid amount of bicarbonates. Do you regularly calibrate your PH meter? For such a delicate beer it probably won’t turn out so rad but you never know. Do you sparge? BIAB? Full Volume mash? Mash pH is important but pre and post boil pH is as, if not more, important.

Also a target gravity for a Helles of 1.051 is rather high. Ideal ABV for a Helles is 4.7ish so you’re actually on a better path in that regard.
 
What is Food Lion water? Was it distilled? You shouldn’t have ended up with a PH that high if it was, it must have had a solid amount of bicarbonates. Do you regularly calibrate your PH meter? For such a delicate beer it probably won’t turn out so rad but you never know. Do you sparge? BIAB? Full Volume mash? Mash pH is important but pre and post boil pH is as, if not more, important.

Also a target gravity for a Helles of 1.051 is rather high. Ideal ABV for a Helles is 4.7ish so you’re actually on a better path in that regard.
The Food lion water that I used was labeled as "Purified drinking water". I do regularly calibrate my Ph meter,although it is a $20 cheapo. I brew in a Grainfather,so I recirculate the mash and sparge. I have only taken mash ph readings but perhaps I will take readings pre and post boil as you have advised. Thanks for the reply,I'm still excited to try this brew. I am now raising the temp fora Drest.
 
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