Junk Malt Muncher Motor

[RabbitHole]

Have a mm3 monster mill. The basic three roller!! Bought the MaltaMuncher motor for it. What a **** show it has been. Spent all morning on day one getting the spider coupling to stop spinning on either side. Once I got that accomplished I was hit with a motor that just won’t turn the mill with gran in it. So I took everything apart multiple times. Check to make sure mill cheek platers were square and they are dead perfect. Double check and reset mill gap. And this motor still insntanly locks up as soon as there is grain in it.

-I had to through drill the mill side and through bolt it. Cause it’s 3/8 and they sent a 10m.

-gap is set to .0325 and it’s perfectly square all they was across.

-my burnt out desalt cordless rips through the grain NOO PROBLEM SLOW OR FAST. STOP AND START WITH OR WITHOUT GRAIN IN MILL!

 

[IslandLizard]

Sorry to hear you're having so much trouble. <ugh> I can only imagine your frustration with that thing.

Are you saying that even when starting it with an empty hopper, it stalls the moment you're pouring malt into it? The motor looks big enough to have some decent power, while the reducing gearbox should convert that to increasing torque. proportionately.

That sounds like something is wrong with that motor. How many watts is it?

My $40 Harbor Freight Heavy Duty Low Speed drill will most definitely break my wrist before it gives up on milling. It almost happened when the mill (MM2) had inadvertently locked up when I started the drill... It bent the (3/8") mill shaft.

 

[camonick]

How many watts is it?

Looks like 90

 

[bracconiere]

My $40 Harbor Freight Heavy Duty Low Speed drill will most definitely break my wrist before it gives up on milling

+1, too bad they stopped making them....i think i got the last one available.

 

[IslandLizard]

+1, too bad they stopped making them....i think i got the last one available.

Yup, the original 550 rpm max gray/metal ones are long gone. Superseded by a yellow/black model, IIRC, which was replaced with today's red "spade handle" drill with similar specs... 600 rpm max, IIRC.

You can hear mine work (groan) when under (milling) load at low ~180 rpm. It sucks a few amps, much more than 90W I'd say.

Here's mine (again):

 

[RabbitHole]

Are you saying that even when starting it with an empty hopper, it stalls the moment you're pouring malt into it

Yes as soon as I pour malt in, it locks up tight!!

I reached out to the shop I bought it from multiple times with no response.!!! Luckily I paid with PayPal so I’ll open a dispute I guess.

 

[IslandLizard]

Yes as soon as I pour malt in, it locks up tight!!

I reached out to the shop I bought it from multiple times with no response.!!! Luckily I paid with PayPal so I’ll open a dispute I guess.

If it's on your credit card, it's probably even easier and faster to contact them.

A few years ago I got nowhere with eBay/PayPal for 2 months over an item that was never received (it likely never shipped). Out of desperation I called my credit card company. "Are you calling about that PayPal transaction?" Yup! They issued a full credit with the words: "Now it's PayPal's problem."

Unless I send money to friends and family I ALWAYS pay on PayPal with a credit card. NEVER directly from my bank account.

 

[Tobor_8thMan]

I read thru the posts and I'm not sure if the mill is locking up or the motor.

Probably a dumb question on my part, but is the motor properly wired?

 

[RabbitHole]

I read thru the posts and I'm not sure if the mill is locking up or the motor.

Probably a dumb question on my part, but is the motor properly wired?

Yea it’s wired the exact way that it came. The only difference is I cut out the plug it came with. And swapped the switch for a single contact and only switching the hot wire!
Wellll how about this. The motor doesn’t have to torque to turn the mill. The motor shaft literally comes to a Halt!!!!

 

[Jtvann]

I used the exact same motor on my monster mill 3. Your experience is the same as mine. Originally I was doing 3 vessel fly sparge using larger mill gap. The motor needed to be turned on and running when I poured grain in. I was using a gap of .040.

I moved to biab and wanted a finer crush. As soon as I dipped to .035, I’d need to reach under and manually spin the bottom roller by hand to get it to start. It struggled, but could barely do it.

Ended going as low as .025 and the motor wouldn’t even try. A cheap battery drill would do the trick, but still get hot. I ended up going to a corded dewalt.

About the only motor I would trust at this point is the one from ale works, but I just can’t see myself spending the money for it.

 

[jerrylotto]

FWIW I had the same problem with a washing machine motor but it just turned out that I had my gap way too small. Try opening up the rollers a bit to 1 mm (.039") or more and see if it works better.

 

[IslandLizard]

The label on the Malt Muncher motor posted above reads 90W, but also states 110V / 2.0A, making it 220W. So which one is it?

The Heavy Duty Low Speed HF drill that replaced superseded mine is currently listed with these specs (mine are similar):

Designed with a powerful 7.5 amp motor​

Featuring up to 0-600 RPM maximum speed​

Heavy duty double gear reduction for maximum torque​

Durable, all steel 1/2 in. chuck​

A 7.5A motor means 110V * 7.5A = 825W
That's almost 1 HP.

 

[matt_m]

I tried one too when I upgraded my Cereal Killer to an MM3 since I already had it. That motor is just too small for an MM3. Its made for the smaller 2-roller mills like the Barley Crusher, Malt Muncher, Cereal Killer, etc. and performs as advertised with those. I bit the bullet and purchased the Aleworks motor.

 

[Tobor_8thMan]

Motor appears the same? If so, Williams Brewing states it works with 2 or 3 roller mills.

http://www.williamsbrewing.com/Home...Mills/Triple-Roller-Grain-Mill-Motorizing-Kit

 

[bruce_the_loon]

The label on the Malt Muncher motor posted above reads 90W, but also states 110V / 2.0A, making it 220W. So which one is it?

The Heavy Duty Low Speed HF drill that replaced mine is currently listed with these specs (mine are similar):

Designed with a powerful 7.5 amp motor​

Featuring up to 0-600 RPM maximum speed​

Heavy duty double gear reduction for maximum torque​

Durable, all steel 1/2 in. chuck​

A 7.5A motor means 110V * 7.5A = 825W
That's almost 1 HP.

Saw that and a 90W motor at 110V feels less powerful than an elderly hamster on a wheel. Even the old Millers Falls drill my dad's had since the 1970s is 350W and that wouldn't turn my mill with its gear ratios.

 

[matt_m]

Motor appears the same? If so, Williams Brewing states it works with 2 or 3 roller mills.

http://www.williamsbrewing.com/Home...Mills/Triple-Roller-Grain-Mill-Motorizing-Kit

Wow, if they are claiming that, its simply untrue as at least 3 of us have found.

 

[RabbitHole]

Still not luck with this pos and hobyhombrew refuses to answer emails or phone calls. So that’s pretty cool!!!

worst part is I bought a stainless table laid everything out drilled and mounted it all nice. Wired it all super clean. To just throw in on the shelf!!!

 

[IslandLizard]

Still not luck with this pos and hobyhombrew refuses to answer emails or phone calls. So that’s pretty cool!!!

worst part is I bought a stainless table laid everything out drilled and mounted it all nice. Wired it all super clean. To just throw in on the shelf!!!

Obviously that motor is not up to the task.
It should therefore be returned and reimbursed, fully.

I'd try to contact the company by phone a few more times, and if that doesn't go anywhere, start a claims process through the credit card company.

You could do some extra testing if you're up for it, but it won't fix the problem. So...

How does the motor run without load, with an empty mill attached?

At your own risk, you could test the motor for performance under load, but please be extremely careful !!! Maybe have someone with you with their hand on the off switch, just in case.
Here's what I would do:
Wrap some duct tape around the inside jaws of a pair of adjustable pliers to prevent gouging the shaft or coupler. When the motor is running, start squeezing the covered pliers slowly and gently over the round part of the drill shaft. How much force does it take to slow down or even stall the motor?

You could also start clamping the pliers over the smooth part of the coupler half on the motor side. Again be very careful in case this thing actually does have more torque than you'd expect.

 

[IslandLizard]

worst part is I bought a stainless table laid everything out drilled and mounted it all nice. Wired it all super clean. To just throw in on the shelf!!!

The Aleworks motor should fit. Or mount a (dedicated) drill, such as I did.
I've removed that drill a few times for some other work, like drilling through wooden poles.

 

[ITV]

Wow, if they are claiming that, its simply untrue as at least 3 of us have found.

They now state: "This will not work with the Monster Mill MM3".
I find it interesting that the motor nameplate states 50Hz which makes me wonder if it's not intended to run on 60Hz.
My Aleworks motor is a tank.

 

[bruce_the_loon]

They now state: "This will not work with the Monster Mill MM3".
I find it interesting that the motor nameplate states 50Hz which makes me wonder if it's not intended to run on 60Hz.
My Aleworks motor is a tank.

If that motor is intended for 50Hz and you run on 60Hz, then you need to jack the voltage to get the same power output from the motor. That's probably why the torque sucks.

That 50Hz is definitely cause for a refund, either by the supplier or by the credit card company as unfit for purpose.

 

[cubalz]

I have my MM3 running on a Dayton 1/2hp electric motor with the proper sheaves from Zoro.com to spin around 200 rpm. I can grind through a full hopper of any grain in about 20 seconds. Sometimes the cheapest options are the best. I attached a pic of my set up.

 

[RabbitHole]

If that motor is intended for 50Hz and you run on 60Hz, then you need to jack the voltage to get the same power output from the motor. That's probably why the torque sucks.

That 50Hz is definitely cause for a refund, either by the supplier or by the credit card company as unfit for purpose.

I wondered this as well. It came with a little black box I’m thinking that was to conver the hz

 

[RabbitHole]

I reached out to him one more time and was able to get him on the phone. He wasn’t monitoring any of his emails. Super nice guy he said it should work no problem. So he’s going to fully refund me. He also said it’s supposed to be 60hz!!

 

[bruce_the_loon]

I reached out to him one more time and was able to get him on the phone. He wasn’t monitoring any of his emails. Super nice guy he said it should work no problem. So he’s going to fully refund me. He also said it’s supposed to be 60hz!!

That's good news. Hopefully it was that he was shipped the wrong spec motor and not more nefarious.

Converting 60Hz to 50Hz or vice-versa would not be a small black box, it might be a big one. You need a AC to DC power supply feeding an AC inverter circuit, that would be more expensive than the motor itself.

 

[RabbitHole]

That's good news. Hopefully it was that he was shipped the wrong spec motor and not more nefarious.

Converting 60Hz to 50Hz or vice-versa would not be a small black box, it might be a big one. You need a AC to DC power supply feeding an AC inverter circuit, that would be more expensive than the motor itself.

Well then that is probably my problem!!!

 

[Tobor_8thMan]

They now state: "This will not work with the Monster Mill MM3".
I find it interesting that the motor nameplate states 50Hz which makes me wonder if it's not intended to run on 60Hz.
My Aleworks motor is a tank.

Aleworks motor is very, very nice. Pricey, but very, very nice. Santa, I've been good. I've been the master of my domain this year and hope that you (Santa) brings me an Aleworks motor for Christmas.

Probably 50Hz as these are all Chinese made. I've seen the same, exact motors on the Chinese megaseller beginning with "A". Also, find these motors also at auction sites.

 

[ITV]

Aleworks motor is very, very nice. Pricey, but very, very nice. Santa, I've been good. I've been the master of my domain this year and hope that you (Santa) brings me an Aleworks motor for Christmas.

Probably 50Hz as these are all Chinese made. I've seen the same, exact motors on the Chinese megaseller beginning with "A". Also, find these motors also at auction sites.

90W Chinese motor for $200 or 400W Aleworks motor for $300, more watts per $ with the Aleworks.

[edited quoted text -mod]

 

[matt_m]

The Aleworks motor is Chinese too. But definitely up to the task.

 

[Tobor_8thMan]

At least with AleWorks we have a US contact if something goes wrong/doesn't work.

 

[AAAW]

Fellow Brewers, great discussion. Thanks for the support. It has been a tough year for all of us. When anyone is ready to step up to a varsity (non-drill / non-flywheel) setup with a motor which is not one of these dinky little units being sold through eBay, Williams Brewing, etc., we are here to help. Yes, our motors are from China. I wish they weren't, and we may change that going forward. In the effort to keep the motors affordable, we went with a manufacturer who offered a quality product at a reasonably affordable price. The motors are compatible with either 110V or 220V current, they work well with either 50HZ or 60 HZ (although they will turn a little faster on 60HZ current), and they are reversible. The Lovejoy shaft couplers we offer are available in sizes to fit shafts of any size. Please contact us with any questions. Best wishes for a great 2021! Happy Brewing! 970-GET-BEER

 

[RabbitHole]

Fellow Brewers, great discussion. Thanks for the support. It has been a tough year for all of us. When anyone is ready to step up to a varsity (non-drill / non-flywheel) setup with a motor which is not one of these dinky little units being sold through eBay, Williams Brewing, etc., we are here to help. Yes, our motors are from China. I wish they weren't, and we may change that going forward. In the effort to keep the motors affordable, we went with a manufacturer who offered a quality product at a reasonably affordable price. The motors are compatible with either 110V or 220V current, they work well with either 50HZ or 60 HZ (although they will turn a little faster on 60HZ current), and they are reversible. The Lovejoy shaft couplers we offer are available in sizes to fit shafts of any size. Please contact us with any questions. Best wishes for a great 2021! Happy Brewing! 970-GET-BEER

Thanks a bunch. If I had done more research I would have just spent the money. But that all being said. The guy I bought it from got more beer to drop ship me another no cost. So hopefully I get this to work. Otherwise I will be headed to u guys next!!!

 

[Kaiserbraü]

I have my MM3 running on a Dayton 1/2hp electric motor with the proper sheaves from Zoro.com to spin around 200 rpm. I can grind through a full hopper of any grain in about 20 seconds. Sometimes the cheapest options are the best. I attached a pic of my set up.

Nice rig! Do you use a starter capacitor? Does your big pulley have a fixed bore or do you use a bushing? I assume it’s hooked to the drive shaft only via set screw?

 

[govner1]

My Aleworks motor has worked very well with my MM3 for 5+ years. It runs at 180 rpm and is reasonably quiet.
Great investment!

 

[cubalz]

Nice rig! Do you use a starter capacitor? Does your big pulley have a fixed bore or do you use a bushing? I assume it’s hooked to the drive shaft only via set screw?

Yes I use a starter capacitor. The large sheave is a fixed bore that is held in place on a flattened section of the shaft by a grub screw.