New England IPA Juicy New England India Pale Ale

[FlyingWombat]

Recipe Description
The New England India Pale Ale (NEIPA) is a super fruity
low bitterness style of IPA that typically sits around the
5.5-7.5% ABV mark. This particular recipe makes a 6.5%
tropical juice bomb of a beer, with big flavors and aromas
of mango, peaches, guava, orange, pineapple, and a
touch of watermelon, lychee, and candy-like sweetness!
If you haven't brewed a NEIPA before or just wanted to
know what ingredients go into brewing a NEIPA, this is
the guide for you!

Batch size & ABV

- 38L (2 19L corny kegs) / 10 gal finished beer​

- 50L (13.2 gal) wort​

o For a smaller 19L (5 gal) batch size simply​

half the ingredients of this recipe​

​

- Starting gravity – 1.063​

- Final gravity 1.013​

- ABV – 6.5%​

Water

● With sparging​

o 30L (7.9 gal) strike water approx. 75°C (167°F) use this calculator to determine your​

strike water starting temp for a 69°C (156°F) mash​

https://chasethecraft.com/calculators​

o 30L (7.9 gal) sparge water at 78°C (172°F)​

● Without sparging​

o 60L (7.9 gal) strike water approx. 74°C (165°F) use this calculator to determine your​

strike water starting temp for a 69°C (156°F) mash​

https://chasethecraft.com/calculators​

Malts:

● Pale ale malt – 7.7kg (17 lb)​

● Wheat Malt – 1.65kg (3.6 lb)​

● Rolled Oat – 1.1kg (2.4 lb)​

● Crisp Cara Gold (light caramalt) – 550g (1.2 lb)​

● Rice Hulls (not necessary, just helps with sparging) – 550g (1.2 lb)​

Hops & whirlfloc tablets

● Galaxy​

o 10g (0.35 oz) - 60 minutes left in the boil​

● Lupomax El Dorado​

o 40g (1.4 oz) – whirlpool for 20 minutes at 75°C (167°F)​

o 65g (2.3 oz) - Dry hop at gravity 1.017 (approx. day 6-10 depending on your yeast)​

● Lupomax Mosaic​

o 40g (1.4 oz) – whirlpool for 20 minutes at 75°C (167°F)​

o 65g (2.3 oz) - Dry hop at gravity 1.017 (approx. day 6-10 depending on your yeast)​

● Lupomax Sabro​

o 40g (1.4 oz) – whirlpool for 20 minutes at 75°C (167°F)​

o 65g (2.3 oz) - Dry hop at gravity 1.017 (approx. day 6-10 depending on your yeast)​

● Lupomax Amarillio​

o 40g (1.4 oz) – whirlpool for 20 minutes at 75°C (167°F)​

o 65g (2.3 oz) - Dry hop at gravity 1.017 (approx. day 6-10 depending on your yeast)​

● Whirlfloc tablets​

o 2 tablets – 15 minutes left in the boil​

Yeast options & fermentation temperatures

● 23g (0.8 oz) Kveik (we used a Omega yeats Espe Kveik, but any kveik is great!) ferment at​

32°C​

● 23g (0.8 oz) US-05 – ferment at 20°C​

● 23g (0.8 oz) S-04 – ferment at 19°C​

Step 1 – Milling

- Mill grains to medium crush (set mill rollers to a gap of approx. 1mm / 0.039 inches)​

- Just keep in mind roller gap settings are not universal so as you brew more batches you will​

find the ideal crush size for your setup​

- Alternatively if you don’t have a grain mill you can order your grains crushed from most​

homebrew stores, both online and in person​

Step 2 – Mashing

- Mash for 60 minutes at 69°C (156°F)​

o Set your strike water to a few degrees above the target mash temperature, you can​

use this calculator to determine what your strike temperature should be​

https://chasethecraft.com/calculators​

​

- ensure you mix in the grains thoroughly with a mash paddle to prevent dough balls from​

forming (big spoons, spatulas or whisks will also work)​

o its easier to mash the grains and prevent dough balls if you add a little grain at a​

time, mix, add more grain and repeat until all the grains are mixed​

​

- if you don’t have a mash tun with heating then ensure after you have finished mixing the​

grains in to insulate your mash tun (thick neoprene or heavy blankets both work well)​

Step 3 (optional) – Sparging

- if your setup has the capability to sparge then do so with 30L (7.9 gal) of sparge water at 78​

°C (172°F)​

- if you are not sparging and using a BIAB (brew in a bag) method then remove grains from​

mash tun and twist and squeeze the bag to get as much liquid out of the grains as possible​

- as you start sparging (or straining your BIAB bag) begin raising the temperature of your wort​

to a boil​

Step 4 – Boiling

- once your wort begins to boil start a timer for a 60-minute boil and add your bittering hops,​

10g (0.35 oz) of Galaxy​

- at 15 minutes left in the boil add 2 whirlfloc tablets​

- after 60 minutes of boiling turn of the heat and chill the temperature of the wort down to​

75°C (167°F) and begin whirlpooling​

o if you don’t have a wort chiller you could rest your boil kettle in an ice bucket​

o if your system can’t whirlpool you can also achieve this with a mash paddle and a​

power drill, if you don’t have this either don’t worry about whirlpooling it’s not​

completely necessary​

Step 5 – Whirlpooling / whirlpool hop additions

- once temperature reaches 75°C (167°F) and you have started whirlpooling add your​

whirlpool hops, 40g (1.4 oz) each of Lupomax versions of Mosaic, Amarillo, Sabro and El​

Dorado​

- allow hops to whirlpool in the wort for 20 minutes and then begin chilling wort again down​

to yeast pitching temperature​

- once you’ve reached yeast pitching temperature take an original gravity reading of your wort​

Step 6 – Yeast Pitching​

- It is best to make a yeast starter before beginning your brew day (ideally 1 day before) to​

ensure your yeast are as active and healthy as possible before pitching, but not completely​

necessary – you could also just rehydrate yeast 30 minutes before pitching.​

- Pitch yeast in wort a degree or two higher than the target fermentation temperature to help​

yeast take off more aggressively​

o To make a yeast starter you can use either:​

▪ DME (dry malt extract) at a ratio of approx. 100g per 1L water (3.5 oz per 33​

fluid ounces) for gravity of approx. 1.040​

▪ some unfermented wort kept cold and sanitary from a previous brew day​

▪ 70g of table sugar per 1L water (2.5 oz per 33 fluid ounces) – however, it is​

best to use malt sugar (wort / DME) whenever possible to reduce the chance​

of shocking the yeast with a different food source from starter to wort​

pitching​

o To rehydrate yeast​

▪ Add yeast to approx. 10 times as much room temperature water as the​

weight of the yeast e.g. 10g yeast in 100 ml water (0.35 oz yeast in 3.5 fluid​

ounces water)​

Step 7 – Fermentation & dry hopping

- Allow yeast to ferment over the next week to two weeks​

- If you have a temperature-controlled system keep the fermenter temperature to the​

recommended fermentation temperature for each yeast strain (stated in the yeast​

ingredients section above)​

- Monitor the fermentation activity over the first 7 days by the bubbling of the blow-off​

tube/airlock of your fermenter, as the bubbling slows down (roughly around day 7) take a​

gravity reading. When the gravity reaches around 1.014 raise the temperature of your​

fermenter by 1-2 degrees for 2 days for a diacetyl rest (if you don’t have temperature control​

don’t worry about this step, it's not the end of the world!)​

o It's important to note that fermentation times will vary based on your circumstances​

like temperature, amount of yeast pitched, the healthiness of yeast, the gravity of​

the wort, pH, etc. so don’t stress be patient and know that these times are just a​

rough guide​

- On day 2 of the diacetyl rest (once gravity reaches roughly 1.015 – 1.017) add 65g (2.3 oz)​

each of Lupomax versions of Mosaic, Amarillo, Sabro, and El Dorado​

- One day after dry hopping take a gravity reading, fermentation should finish at about 1.013,​

if you haven't reached this yet wait another day and take another reading, once the gravity is​

the same 2 days in a row move onto cold crashing! (If you can’t / don’t want to cold crash go​

straight to kegging/bottling your beer!)​

Step 8 (optional) – Cold crashing

- begin cold crashing your fermenter (bring the temperature of your fermenter down to as​

close to 0°C (32°F) as possible, for 2 days to a week depending on how patient you are​

- If you don’t have a temp-controlled fermenter, you can cold crash by putting your fermenter​

in a fridge or temp-controlled chest freezer​

- After you have finished cold crashing it's time to keg/bottle your beer! If you are bottling​

your beer from the fermenter uncarbonated remember to add about 5-7 grams (0.17 - 0.24​

oz) of priming sugar to your bottles to carbonate your beer.​

BREWDAY FINISHED!

You can check how we brewed this beer here!

Cheers!

 

[FlyingWombat]

This is what the end product looks like, and it bloody tastes great!

 

[mggray87]

i want to brew this!? anyone else brew this in 5.5g batch?

 

[sibelman]

After largely abandoning this style because of highly inconsistent results, I may be ready to try again based on this detailed recipe. I have no experience with Lupomax - I take it these achieve more character with fewer ounces?

Even with cold crashing, I fear clogs during transfer to keg with so much dry hops. I'd probably break down and finally buy a Bouncer before trying this.

 

[wepeeler]

After largely abandoning this style because of highly inconsistent results, I may be ready to try again based on this detailed recipe. I have no experience with Lupomax - I take it these achieve more character with fewer ounces?

Even with cold crashing, I fear clogs during transfer to keg with so much dry hops. I'd probably break down and finally buy a Bouncer before trying this.

Beware, even a Bouncer clogs during transfer. I use the blue filter and have to change it out 3-4x. I even cold crashed at 38F for 48 hours and dumped trub prior to kegging.

 

[sibelman]

Beware

Thanks, @wepeeler. I've been dry-hopping in the serving keg, with a floating dip tube or a dip tube screen, with few problems. Your warning encourages me to continue that way, esp. 'cuz I lack both a Bouncer and an obvious way to mate my Flex+ racking arm/tube to the skinnier tube of the CBDS or FLOTit widget.

What do fans of NEIPA fermenter dry hopping have to say about the (dis)advantages of the two methods?

 

[scogan]

I think dry hopping in the serving keg wins it for me , I don’t taste any of the dreaded grassy flavours that others are trying to avoid .My last brew I transferred to a keg purged with fermentation gas and containing the dry hops but the aroma seemed subdued, though I will repeat it at some point , mainly just to have cleaner slurry for repitching .

 

[redrocker652002]

Gonna put this in my pile of ones to try. I have a few in front of it, but it looks really good.

 

[wepeeler]

Thanks, @wepeeler. I've been dry-hopping in the serving keg, with a floating dip tube or a dip tube screen, with few problems. Your warning encourages me to continue that way, esp. 'cuz I lack both a Bouncer and an obvious way to mate my Flex+ racking arm/tube to the skinnier tube of the CBDS or FLOTit widget.

What do fans of NEIPA fermenter dry hopping have to say about the (dis)advantages of the two methods?

I would continue to do what you're doing if it's working. I DH in my unitank and even with the Bouncer MD I have to clean the filter 3 or 4 times per transfer. I'm going to buy the Bouncer Pro asap and try it out.

 

[HM-2]

Thanks, @wepeeler. I've been dry-hopping in the serving keg, with a floating dip tube or a dip tube screen, with few problems. Your warning encourages me to continue that way, esp. 'cuz I lack both a Bouncer and an obvious way to mate my Flex+ racking arm/tube to the skinnier tube of the CBDS or FLOTit widget.

What do fans of NEIPA fermenter dry hopping have to say about the (dis)advantages of the two methods?

I've done both, but I mostly keg hop if I've not got the "right" level of hop aroma and flavour out of my DH.

I tend to dump my hop debris and trub before I keg from my Unitank, soft crash down to 14°C or so, and run through a Bounce on a white filter and don't get too much in the way of clogging with ~12-14g/L of cryo dry hops.

I have started using SPECTRUM early in fermentation as part of my dry hopping regiment, but not quite yet got the doses dialled down to get maximum fruity juice.

 

[sibelman]

Thanks for this response, @HM-2. ~12-14g/L is way beyond anything I've tried. I'm intrigued by products like SPECTRUM but have not yet used any advanced hops products besides Cryo®.

Like @scogan, I haven't experienced the dreaded grassy flavors at any point -- maybe my limited palate just doesn't detect that?

At the moment, I'm experimenting with using my Blichmann Hop Rocket™ as a Randall. Not with NEIPA yet. With 3 oz. of Mosaic flowers, my latest DIPA (already a bit sweeter than usual, maybe because I had to use White Labs Edinburgh instead of my usual Imperial Tartan) became even sweeter. Yesterday I switched the Randall to my new 20 liter West Coast IPA, already dry hopped with 3 oz. of Mosaic pellets ("only" ~4g/L), and will try it today.

I know this is a NEIPA thread but I have to mention: the other day I sampled a black IPA with amazing dry hop character. My CDA doesn't emphasize flavor/aroma hops, but I'm excited to try that, and to try again to make NEIPA after having set that aside 'cuz of too many off results.

Cheers!

 

[HM-2]

Thanks for this response, @HM-2. ~12-14g/L is way beyond anything I've tried. I'm intrigued by products like SPECTRUM but have not yet used any advanced hops products besides Cryo®.

I've just kegged a 6.8% NEIPA that was dry hopped to 12.8g/L, all Cryo hops. It's been in keg on gas for 24 hours and though it tastes great I honestly reckon I could have gone 16g+ and it would have been better for it.

Process for that was:

Ferment at 19°C ramping to ~22°C with Lallemand Koln for 7 days initially with an airlock.

1/3 dry hop charge at day 2 high krausen (which was circa 25g Vic Secret, 30g Motueka and 50g BRU-1 Cryo. Done just by removing lid. Replace airlock with spunding valve set to 3 PSI

Rouse hops once at 5 days

Day 7 cold crash down to 14°C or so to try and aid hops falling out of suspension. Dump trub into 1L Fermzilla collection jar after CO2 purging 5 times.

2/3 dry hop charge done though removing the fermenter liquid out post, with 3psi CO2 run through the gas in to create positive pressure. 36-48 hours on the hops.

Kegged through bounce white filter to avoid picking up too much hop debris.



That was drinkable warm straight out the fermenter, absolutely no greenness or hop bite to speak of.