American IPA Ithaca Flower Power Clone

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I have brewed this many times. I did back to back batches with my twin bro. I used 15 lbs of 2 row , half pound of honey malt and 4 ounces of c20L. The first batch had an OG of 1.069 and the second 1.068. I couldn't be happier. These will be tapped this Saturday, July 5th for an annual party. Here is a shot of the twins in secondary with the dry hop.
 
How do you get the hops out after racking? I use loose pellets, turn into mush with the trub.


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I just flush with water and swirl around. It does take awhile to get them out. The hops were in for 7-8 days, then cold crashed two days. After the cold crash most fell to the bottom. A lot of the hop cones had broken down and were almost mushy, only spent around 5 minutes to clean each secondary.
 
This is a great beer! I used a variation of this recipe and I placed in a competition with it. As far as the yeast I use 2 packets of 05 that I put straight into fermentation vessel. If you go to the manufacturers website they show the different ways of using this yeast. you don't have to re-hydrate this prior top using as long as your wort is at proper temp when pitching.
 
This is a great beer! I used a variation of this recipe and I placed in a competition with it. As far as the yeast I use 2 packets of 05 that I put straight into fermentation vessel. If you go to the manufacturers website they show the different ways of using this yeast. you don't have to re-hydrate this prior top using as long as your wort is at proper temp when pitching.

And what would u say that be?? I try to cool my wort to my basement ambient temp which is 62-63 deg.
 
I'm going to brew this soon but used Beersmith to adjust the grains for my 72% efficiency and also plugged in 75 IBU's which after looking around is what this beer is rated at. I also moved the hops around based on Ithaca's info on their website, no more Cascade and Chinook has been removed from the dry hop

Moved the following:

Chinook to FWH. I figured it'd be better served as the bittering hop over Centennial.
Amarillo - from 45min to 20 min to get more aeromatics and citrus flavor
Simcoe - from 30 to 20min to reduce the bitterness and get more of the flavor and aroma
Centennial- Replaces Cascade as the 10min addition
Citra- added as the 5 min addition


. Anyone ever use US-04 in this beer? Just wondered if it would add anything like the somewhat fruitiness the 04 can add.
 
Hello gang,
I'm very new to brewing and planning to use this recipe to go for that Flower Power joy. I'm curious to know what my best bet would be if I'd like to tone it down just a hair, going for less astringency (and perhaps lower ABV), but keep the floral notes. I'm going to dig around for general ways to achieve this but figured I'd ask this group who has had such success with the base recipe. Any advice would be helpful?
Thanks!
 
Planning to brew this BIAB (Brew In A Bag) style in a couple weeks. Also going to do only a 1 gallon final volume batch as I'm just getting back into brewing after a long hiatus (I'm sure I'll regret that if it comes out as well as all yours).

Any tips/thoughts/adjustments you would recommend with a 1 gallon BIAB method in mind?
 
Only recommendation I have is to make full batch!
If you do go the one gallon route make sure you use a brewing calculator to figure out how much each hop addition should be. Don't just 1/5 the recipe or you won't get the real taste.
 
Only recommendation I have is to make full batch!
If you do go the one gallon route make sure you use a brewing calculator to figure out how much each hop addition should be. Don't just 1/5 the recipe or you won't get the real taste.

Hahah thanks, next time! I followed the hop recommendations given by the BIABacus which are calculated based on target IBU so should be good!
 
Brewed this bad boy today will post back with results. Made a few changes. I did 17lbs 2 row with .5lb honey malt. I decided to skip the small amount of crystal to see the outcome.
 
Day 7 in the Primary carboy, my clone has a heady krausen and still shows signs of fermentation (1 bubble / 8 sec or so). Is it too soon to dry hop? (Planning to dry hop in primary and not rack to a secondary.)

Also, does it make much of a difference to dry hop with pellets vs leaf hops? Going to use remaining pellets (sealed and frozen currently) I think.
 
Bueller?

I'm going to just use the pellets I have for dry hopping, seems after a bit of research a lot of people believe the difference is minimal unless you have super fresh whole hops.

Just not sure if I should wait until all signs of primary fermentation are done before dry hopping... or is it ok to start the dry hopping at the tail end of primary fermentation?
 
Wait until primary fermentation stops-- don't rush it. -- also, r u gunna rack to a secondary? if so, then most definitely wait until primary fermentation is complete.
 
Wait until primary fermentation stops-- don't rush it. -- also, r u gunna rack to a secondary? if so, then most definitely wait until primary fermentation is complete.

Thanks! Not racking to secondary.

My primary fermentation has slowed to 1 bubble / minute. I'm going to check it in about 12 hours and if it's slowed much more it seems like a good time to dry hop. Good idea?
 
Thanks! Not racking to secondary.

My primary fermentation has slowed to 1 bubble / minute. I'm going to check it in about 12 hours and if it's slowed much more it seems like a good time to dry hop. Good idea?

Not to barge in, but if it were me I would just wait until visible signs of fermentation are over followed by 2 consecutive days of the same FG readings.
:mug:
 
I don't see the need to wait until fermentation is over to dry hop...especially since you aren't moving to a secondary...do people still do those? Lol
I have dry hopped and added other things while fermentation is still under way and my beer comes out great. Just remember not to let the hops in for too long waiting for beer to clear. Do you temp control?
 
Not to barge in, but if it were me I would just wait until visible signs of fermentation are over followed by 2 consecutive days of the same FG readings.
:mug:

Hmm it's a tough one, I've seen people do it both ways, I'm on the fence.

I don't see the need to wait until fermentation is over to dry hop...especially since you aren't moving to a secondary...do people still do those? Lol
I have dry hopped and added other things while fermentation is still under way and my beer comes out great. Just remember not to let the hops in for too long waiting for beer to clear. Do you temp control?

I do, first few days was at about 65, then 68 since then.
 
Just do what you feel like doing...your ask 10 homebrewers a question you will get 11 different ways to do it! Lol
 
Update...

SG was 1.074

Primary fermentation day 1-9
Dry hop day 9-16

FG taken today (day 16) is 1.016 for an ABV 7.61%. Whew, overshot the FG a bit.

Despite some apparent off-gassing still occurring I think I'm going to cold crash now (then bottle after 2 or 3 day cold crash). I don't want the FG to drop any lower than it already is. Not sure how fermentation could still be going on!
 
Update...

SG was 1.074

Primary fermentation day 1-9
Dry hop day 9-16

FG taken today (day 16) is 1.016 for an ABV 7.61%. Whew, overshot the FG a bit.

Despite some apparent off-gassing still occurring I think I'm going to cold crash now (then bottle after 2 or 3 day cold crash). I don't want the FG to drop any lower than it already is. Not sure how fermentation could still be going on!

Cold crashing won't stop fermentation. It may slow it down til you bottle....then bombs. If it's done at 1.016, then it's done. But don't bottle too soon and think you'll stop it....cause you won't. :mug:
 
Cold crashing won't stop fermentation. It may slow it down til you bottle....then bombs. If it's done at 1.016, then it's done. But don't bottle too soon and think you'll stop it....cause you won't. :mug:

So take a reading tomorrow at same temp and if 1.016 then safe to say fermentation is done?
 
Yeah, if it's done...then it's done. Many people cold crash then bottle. There is always enough of the yeasties to carbonate the beer. :)
 
Has anyone compared these recipes against what was featured in BYO this month? I'd be interested to see the similarities, but don't have a copy of the magazine.
 
hey all just wanted reply back with my results. I slightly deviated off course with the grain bill. I did 17 lbs of 2 Row and 8 oz of honey malt and left the small amount of crystal out. I followed the Hop schedule exactly though.

Anyways the beer came out fantastic. The smell is just amazing from this one, as soon as I pour one from the tap the amazing smell just fills the room!!! The taste follows suit and is nice and hoppy and finishes a bit sweet from the honey malt. Overall great beer and I will continue to brew this one. Thanks for the Recipe.

wr135d.jpg
 
I've been wanting to brew this Flower Power clone for a while now and finally got around to it last weekend.

I did a Brew In A Bag, cut the 2row down by 1/2 lb (so only 16lb), I reduced the centennial to just 1oz, and I used Wyeast 1099 Whitbread without a starter. My final volume was around 5 gallons and my OG came in at 1.071.

It's bubbling away and hopefully dry hopping on Sunday, 3/27. I'll let you know how it turns out.
 
After seven days of fermentation, the gravity reading came in at 1.030... a little higher than I was hoping to see. I added the 3oz of dry hops anyway and will get another reading in 5-6 days. Hopefully it's down closer to 1.020.
 
Mmm kay... figured out why my gravity was so high after 1 week. Was using a infrared temperature reader for the first time (and last time) and I believe my mash temp was too high (160-ish), creating too many unfermentable sugars. Will check gravity today and likely bottle what will hopefully not be a total disappointment, but a far cry from what this beer should be.
I will brew again...
 
How does this look for a water profile for this beer? I'm using 100% ro

Ca 108
Mg 9
Na 0
Cl 108
So4 153
Cl/so4 0.71
 
This one looks good. I was picking up a 6 pack today and actually saw this brew there. Figured I'd give the real one a taste and then possibly make it
 
I might give this one a go, sounds very good.
I just have one reservation; are people really getting an FG of 1.019 using US-05 at 152F?
I did a RIS (Yeti) with that yeast and temperature with a higher OG and it ended up at 1.019, this recipe only has a few % crystal and no roast malt, so I find it hard to believe as it's less than 75% attenuation and normally I get more than 80% with this yeast. I have no problem if it finishes drier and I just ant to make sure I haven't overlooked something . BTW I'll be using weyermann Abbey or Melanoidin instead of Honey malt.

Thanks :mug:
 
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