American IPA Ithaca Flower Power Clone

[DoctorDuvel]

Love Flower Power and Hopslam. I used 12oz honey malt (5% grist) on my FP attempt and didn't like the results, too dark also. If I tried again I'd cut it in half to 6oz.

Ah, I see what you're saying...this might not be an accurate clone recipe. I'm just recalling my experience of it from early January - and maybe I'm overblowing the effect of the honey malt. Hopefully soon I'll get to "refresh" my memory of the real FP.

You're lucky to be able to do side-by-side tastings.

 

[sivdrinks]

Ah, I see what you're saying...this might not be an accurate clone recipe. I'm just recalling my experience of it from early January - and maybe I'm overblowing the effect of the honey malt. Hopefully soon I'll get to "refresh" my memory of the real FP.

You're lucky to be able to do side-by-side tastings.

The OP does this recipe pretty often with good results, just doesn't work for me that's all. I've used 4oz in a Two Hearted recipe and it was noticeable and enjoyable. There's a interview somewhere from the brewmaster stating the honey malt is 3% of the grist.

 

[seckert]

Yeah, Ithaca Brewery only serves the Northeast states, unfortunately.

But at least you have Yuengling in Florida (I'm originally from PA as well) - I know they get mixed reviews on this forum but I like their beer.

yes we have Yuengling and that is something that is actually recent from what i have heard. i just moved here about 3 years ago. When i lived out in Cali i sure did miss it. its a good BBQ beer. better than most of the other mainstream crap out there and it doesnt break the bank like the real good beer would.

 

[Dumpsterboy]

I do prefer it with slightly less honey malt--, but the key to the color for me is the increase in sparge water. Also, I see on the Ithaca website they are using Citra in their hop schedule. That's a change from before. You can definitely play around with the hop schedule as I have many times with quite similar results. But I do agree, Flower Power has a very light color which is somewhat hard to match when using too much honey malt. I have even reduced the crystal or used crystal 10L instead. I've tinkered with this recipe many times, but found my best results were to reduce my mash water and increase my sparge water. Good luck brewing!! The fact is with Flower Power is their proprietary yeast. Can't duplicate that for sure. I'm sure that is what separates it from everything else. Wyeast 1099 worked well for me too(with a starter). I'm thinking about combining Wyeast 1099 and Safale US-05 and see what I can come up with.

 

[PJM]

I've tinkered with this recipe many times, but found my best results were to reduce my mash water and increase my sparge water.

Hey Dumpster, what effect does this have on the final product and why? Thanks.

 

[Dumpsterboy]

For me, it reduces the color and overall maltiness by increasing sparge water. My wort collected after sparging is much lighter in color than my wort from my mash water, and therefore I tend to taste more of the hop flavors than the maltiness of the honey malt used. It reduces my abv slightly, but I think it is worth it. Just personal preference thats all.

 

[sivdrinks]

For me, it reduces the color and overall maltiness by increasing sparge water. My wort collected after sparging is much lighter in color than my wort from my mash water, and therefore I tend to taste more of the hop flavors than the maltiness of the honey malt used. It reduces my abv slightly, but I think it is worth it. Just personal preference thats all.

Hey, how would you describe the malt flavor of the honey malt? Both times I've used it on the heavy side it came across like diacetyl to me.

 

[PJM]

For me, it reduces the color and overall maltiness by increasing sparge water. My wort collected after sparging is much lighter in color than my wort from my mash water, and therefore I tend to taste more of the hop flavors than the maltiness of the honey malt used. It reduces my abv slightly, but I think it is worth it. Just personal preference thats all.

I think I understand. You are fly sparging, right? And it sounds like you are leaving a little more sugars in the mash tun so you get a little lighter wort into the kettle. I had just never heard of reducing the water to grain ratio to get a lighter beer. But, then again, I do not fly sparge. Thanks for the response.

 

[Dumpsterboy]

to sivdrinks-- I do think honey malt has a pretty unique flavor. For me it adds a little sweetness without the heavier malt taste that I get in some other IPA's. As far as diacetyl--I only experienced that one time, and I got a little bit of that when I pitched my yeast at too high a temperature( around 78 ), instead of closer to 70 like I usually do. From a few competitions that I entered this IPA in, the judges said they didn't pick up any diacetyl. That's whats great about brewing, everyone has a slightly different preference on flavors--malts and hops. For instance, I don't use much pilsner or munich malts because although my homebrewing friends enjoy them, they always impart some flavor that I don't overly enjoy. It's all good. I was actually thinking about using this recipe with similiar hops but just 2-row and see how that goes. Leave the honey malt completely out and focus the malt on one base flavor.
I just read the Ithaca website and they describe it as a Clover honey hue. I wonder if it is the clover taste that you pick up. Clover isn't for everyone sometimes. I love it, but unique for sure.

 

[mkravitz13]

I've brewed it a number of times, and yes just like the original-- which I love as well. When I batch sparge, i collect until I get about 6.8-7.0 gallons preboil, then boil down to a batch size of 5.3. I'm surre yo will enjoy this beer.View attachment 58110

you're color is absolutely unbelievable! aside from the sparge water tip you've mentioned, do you always shoot for 9 SRM when brewing this beer? I would imagine that the increased sparge water would lower your intended SRM's a bit wouldn't you say?

 

[Dumpsterboy]

Yes increased sparge water lowers my SRM for sure. I shoot for an SRM of 7-8 usually. If u want 9 then just increase your mash water.

 

[rtb178]

Have you tried this with late hopping/hopstand techniques? Just wondering, as this recipe seems different than many folks' recipes, which are only bittering + massive late hopping. I've had FP and it's a killer beer, so I didn't know if you'd tried this method or not.

Thanks.

 

[Dumpsterboy]

I've tried FWH as well as some late hopping for aroma. I found that if I dry hop for 2 weeks instead of 1 then my aroma drastically increases.

 

[rtb178]

I'm going to brew today, and am considering this hopping schedule. The goal is to lower the bitterness just a bit and to accentuate hop flavors. Any thoughts? The 30 minute post-boil is a 30 minute hopstand. Thanks for looking.

From Hopville; sorry about any formatting problems.

Usage Time OZ AA » IBU
Icon first wort 60 min 1 Centennial ~ pellet 8.7 » 40.0
Icon boil 10 min 1 Amarillo Gold ~ pellet 8.7 » 14.5
Icon boil 10 min 1 Simcoe ~ pellet 13.0 » 21.7
Icon boil 5 min 1 Centennial ~ pellet 8.7 » 8.0
Icon post-boil 30 min 1 Chinook ~ pellet 11.6 » 0.0
Icon post-boil 30 min 1 Citra ~ pellet 10.0 » 0.0
Icon dry hop 7 days 1 ½ Amarillo ~ pellet 8.3 » 0.0
Icon dry hop 7 days 1 ½ Centennial ~ pellet 8.3 » 0.0
Icon dry hop 7 days 2 Simcoe ~ pellet 12.8 » 0.0

Bitterness
84.1 IBU
ƒ: Tinseth
9 HBU

BU:GU
1.27

 

[Dumpsterboy]

Looks good to me!!

 

[Husk]

FP is one of my all time favorite beers bar none. Love it.

Fella's please humor me a little here.... I'm new. I did a couple of all grain brews back in the 90's when HB'ing was very much a new thing and not much internet.

I'm getting back into this right now and while eventually I'm sure I'll go back to AG for now I want to try a couple of extract brews. BUT.....I really want to try this recipe.

Would anyone please hazard a guess as to the extracts I would use to brew this?

I know I'm a newb and this probably sounds ridiculous but please help if you feel so inclined.

Thanks all and btw, this forum is top notch. Home brewing has come a very very long way from when I did it last.

All the best from NEO

 

[rtb178]

After 7 days with US-05, I'm at 1.012 from 1.066. Looks good.

Only used about 4.5 oz of Honey Malt; I'm getting a honey and tropical hops aroma, but not too much honey flavor. We'll see in 3 or 4 weeks after the dry hop and bottle.

EDIT: Well, I may have jumped the gun. I dry hopped, and now I've been seeing a bit of airlock activity every 15-30 seconds. Nothing big, but it appears that the fermentation didn't quite finish. A little frustrating, as I thought it tasted pretty dry at 1.012. If it goes further, I'm wonder if it might get a bit too bitter.

I'm going to brew today, and am considering this hopping schedule. The goal is to lower the bitterness just a bit and to accentuate hop flavors. Any thoughts? The 30 minute post-boil is a 30 minute hopstand. Thanks for looking.

From Hopville; sorry about any formatting problems.

Usage Time OZ AA » IBU
Icon first wort 60 min 1 Centennial ~ pellet 8.7 » 40.0
Icon boil 10 min 1 Amarillo Gold ~ pellet 8.7 » 14.5
Icon boil 10 min 1 Simcoe ~ pellet 13.0 » 21.7
Icon boil 5 min 1 Centennial ~ pellet 8.7 » 8.0
Icon post-boil 30 min 1 Chinook ~ pellet 11.6 » 0.0
Icon post-boil 30 min 1 Citra ~ pellet 10.0 » 0.0
Icon dry hop 7 days 1 ½ Amarillo ~ pellet 8.3 » 0.0
Icon dry hop 7 days 1 ½ Centennial ~ pellet 8.3 » 0.0
Icon dry hop 7 days 2 Simcoe ~ pellet 12.8 » 0.0

Bitterness
84.1 IBU
ƒ: Tinseth
9 HBU

BU:GU
1.27

 

[brewmaster_bates]

Let me know how this goes. I'm also looking to make a version with all late hop additions @20 mins or less.

 

[mkravitz13]

After 7 days with US-05, I'm at 1.012 from 1.066. Looks good.

Only used about 4.5 oz of Honey Malt; I'm getting a honey and tropical hops aroma, but not too much honey flavor. We'll see in 3 or 4 weeks after the dry hop and bottle.

EDIT: Well, I may have jumped the gun. I dry hopped, and now I've been seeing a bit of airlock activity every 15-30 seconds. Nothing big, but it appears that the fermentation didn't quite finish. A little frustrating, as I thought it tasted pretty dry at 1.012. If it goes further, I'm wonder if it might get a bit too bitter.

dont worry about the slight increase in activity. its pretty normal after you've roused the yeast in transfering to a secondary fermenter. the hops (especially pellets) also provide millions of nucleation sites for CO2 bubbles- that could also account for your airlock activity too. your fg will also likely remain at 1.012, so no worries!

 

[golfduke]

I tried this in corning, NY this past weekend and was blown away. Just an extremely great summer IPA. I caught the honey malt and tons of citrus-based late-hopping without a hint of astringent bitterness. I'm definitely going to be brewing this soon.

Ithaca Brewing is now on my list of breweries to visit.

 

[WAORGANY]

Just tapped my version of this and then did a side by side taste taste! All I can say is WOW!!!

I used:

16 lbs 2 row
1 lbs Honey Malt
.25 C40

1 oz Centennial 60
.50 Amarillo 50
1 oz Citra 40
1 oz Chinook 35
1 oz Simcoe 30
1 oz Cascade 25
1 oz Cascade 20
.50 Amarillo 15
Irish Mosh 10
2 packs of Dry US 05
Dry hop
1 oz Simcoe Pellets, 1 oz centennial pellets and 1 oz Cascade cones

5.50 gallon batch
OG 1.080
FG 1.012
ABV 8.90
IBU 139.2
8.4 SRM

Great beer will brew again thanks for the original recipe and staring this thread

 

[Dumpsterboy]

Nice!!! I see your SRM looks like mine. That's the only part that I have been unable to match, but the flavor is almost dead on, so I don't get too concerned about the color difference. I'm getting thirsty for one right now.

 

[mkravitz13]

Just tapped my version of this and then did a side by side taste taste! All I can say is WOW!!!

I used:

16 lbs 2 row
1 lbs Honey Malt
.25 C40

1 oz Centennial 60
.50 Amarillo 50
1 oz Citra 40
1 oz Chinook 35
1 oz Simcoe 30
1 oz Cascade 25
1 oz Cascade 20
.50 Amarillo 15
Irish Mosh 10
2 packs of Dry US 05
Dry hop
1 oz Simcoe Pellets, 1 oz centennial pellets and 1 oz Cascade cones

5.50 gallon batch
OG 1.080
FG 1.012
ABV 8.90
IBU 139.2
8.4 SRM

Great beer will brew again thanks for the original recipe and staring this thread

thats a serious hop schedule right there. no flameout?

wondering, you long did you dry hop for?

 

[theveganbrewer]

Which one of those is the real thing, the one on the right, correct? That's a big color difference.

 

[rtb178]

I'm going to brew today, and am considering this hopping schedule. The goal is to lower the bitterness just a bit and to accentuate hop flavors. Any thoughts? The 30 minute post-boil is a 30 minute hopstand. Thanks for looking.

From Hopville; sorry about any formatting problems.

Usage Time OZ AA » IBU
Icon first wort 60 min 1 Centennial ~ pellet 8.7 » 40.0
Icon boil 10 min 1 Amarillo Gold ~ pellet 8.7 » 14.5
Icon boil 10 min 1 Simcoe ~ pellet 13.0 » 21.7
Icon boil 5 min 1 Centennial ~ pellet 8.7 » 8.0
Icon post-boil 30 min 1 Chinook ~ pellet 11.6 » 0.0
Icon post-boil 30 min 1 Citra ~ pellet 10.0 » 0.0
Icon dry hop 7 days 1 ½ Amarillo ~ pellet 8.3 » 0.0
Icon dry hop 7 days 1 ½ Centennial ~ pellet 8.3 » 0.0
Icon dry hop 7 days 2 Simcoe ~ pellet 12.8 » 0.0

Bitterness
84.1 IBU
ƒ: Tinseth
9 HBU

BU:GU
1.27

I'll be bottling this in the next couple of days after a ~10 day dryhop. Will be reporting back on the late hop FP.

 

[Guyute_Pig]

Getting ready to brew this guy using Marris Otter, excited to fire my new blichmann burner up for the first time. Thanks for the recipe.

 

[WAORGANY]

thats a serious hop schedule right there. no flameout?

wondering, you long did you dry hop for?

I dry hopped for 1 week.... Yeah is pretty dang good!

 

[WAORGANY]

Which one of those is the real thing, the one on the right, correct? That's a big color difference.

Yes the one on the right is the Flower Power the left is mine, I think it's the honey malt?

 

[Spinrathen]

Going to give this one a shot next.

 

[theveganbrewer]

Oh yeah, that's a large bit of honey malt.