ITC-1000 Wiring Help?

[copper2hopper]

Does anyone have the ITC-1000 here that can hook me up with a wiring diagram/pics of their set up with it? I've obviously found plenty on the STC-1000. Are they the same set up that I can just use one of those diagrams that I found?

 

[day_trippr]

The Inkbird ITC-1000 has identical pinouts to the STC-1000.
Look down near the bottom of this page for a bunch of STC-1000 thread links...

Cheers!

 

[BaylessBrewer]

Let's see if I can explain this without too much confusion. I just finished mine 3 days ago.
Power wire (black) goes to #1 with splice supplying the load side of outlet. Don't break the bridge on this side of the outlet.
Common wire (white) goes to #2 with splices going to #5 and #7.
Line out #6 goes to top screw on common side of outlet. BREAK the bridge on this side of the outlet! This will be your power source for HEAT cycle.
Line out #8 goes to bottom screw on common side of outlet. This will be your power source for COOLING cycle.
Green ground wire goes to the green screw on the bottom of your outlet.
Be sure to use a 14ga 15amp rated 3 wire power cord!!
Label your outlets for heat and cooling and you should be good to go.
If you need me to I can shoot a short video of how mine is wired.
Good luck!!

 

[doug293cz]

Let's see if I can explain this without too much confusion. I just finished mine 3 days ago.
Power wire (black) goes to #1 with splice supplying the load side of outlet. Don't break the bridge on this side of the outlet.
Common wire (white) goes to #2 with splices going to #5 and #7.
Line out #6 goes to top screw on common side of outlet. BREAK the bridge on this side of the outlet! This will be your power source for HEAT cycle.
Line out #8 goes to bottom screw on common side of outlet. This will be your power source for COOLING cycle.
Green ground wire goes to the green screw on the bottom of your outlet.
Be sure to use a 14ga 15amp rated 3 wire power cord!!
Label your outlets for heat and cooling and you should be good to go.
If you need me to I can shoot a short video of how mine is wired.
Good luck!!

NO! The way you describe wiring the unit you are switching the neutral wires in the circuit. This is considered bad practice (and may even violate electrical codes. Not a code wonk, so not sure here.) You should always be switching the hot side of a line voltage circuit. Your wiring will work, but you always have line voltage on circuits that should be off.

The black hot wire should be spliced to go to pins #5 & #7. Pins #6 and #8 then connect to the hot side of the outlet, and the bridge on the hot side of the outlet should be broken. Doesn't matter if the black (hot) wire goes to pin #1 or #2, as long as the white (neutral) wire goes to the other pin. Likewise, pins #5 & #6 can be swapped, and #7 & #8 can be swapped. But no neutral wires should go to pins #5, #6, #7 or #8.

An ITC-1000 should be wired exactly the same way as an STC-1000.

Edit: I googled about the NEC, and it is in fact a violation of the NEC (article 404) to wire the ITC-1000 in the manor recommended on their web site.

Brew on

 

[AnOldUR]

 

[BaylessBrewer]

NO! The way you describe wiring the unit you are switching the neutral wires in the circuit. This is considered bad practice (and may even violate electrical codes. Not a code wonk, so not sure here.) You should always be switching the hot side of a line voltage circuit. Your wiring will work, but you always have line voltage on circuits that should be off.



The black hot wire should be spliced to go to pins #5 & #7. Pins #6 and #8 then connect to the hot side of the outlet, and the bridge on the hot side of the outlet should be broken. Doesn't matter if the black (hot) wire goes to pin #1 or #2, as long as the white (neutral) wire goes to the other pin. Likewise, pins #5 & #6 can be swapped, and #7 & #8 can be swapped. But no neutral wires should go to pins #5, #6, #7 or #8.



An ITC-1000 should be wired exactly the same way as an STC-1000.



Brew on

I wired the unit the same way it shows on the schematic on the unit. It shows that the common is the controlled wire not the load.???

 

[AnOldUR]

I wired the unit the same way it shows on the schematic on the unit. It shows that the common is the controlled wire not the load.???

Got a link or post a picture of this schematic?

The hot is always the switched wire. You never want to take the chance of touching a hot wire in a circuit that you think is not live because it's switched off.

 

[doug293cz]

I wired the unit the same way it shows on the schematic on the unit. It shows that the common is the controlled wire not the load.???

The schematic on the unit does not show which wire is hot and which is neutral. You always want things connected so that the hot side of the load circuit is switched.

Maybe you are not reading the schematic correctly. Any load (in a 120V system, and many non-US 220V systems) has a hot wire connected to it, and a neutral wire connected to it. The switch for the load should be on the hot wire, not the neutral wire.

Edit: I looked at the Ink-Bird web site and the PDF instruction manual available there. They do indeed have wiring diagrams that switch the neutral leg of the circuit.

Brew on

 

[actech]

Looks like that controller is for 220 not 120. So you wont have a neutral, you will have 2 hots. Be sure you have the right controler. The picture posted says it is for 220.

 

[doug293cz]

Looks like that controller is for 220 not 120. So you wont have a neutral, you will have 2 hots. Be sure you have the right controler. The picture posted says it is for 220.

Many non-USA 220V systems are hot + neutral. The single hot is at 220V. USA 240V systems are 2 hot lines @ 120V that are 180° out of phase with each other. If the ITC-1000 has a switching power supply, then it can run at 120V as well as 220V.

Brew on

 

[BaylessBrewer]

The operators manual that came with it says it's 120v with 3w consumption and 220v @10 amp capacity for heating and cooling

 

[doug293cz]

So, I googled around a bit on switch wiring rules in the NEC (National Electrical Code), and it turns out that the NEC requires that the hot line be switched and specifically forbids switching the neutral line as a means of turning a load on and off. Google "NEC article 404" for lots of references.

Ink-Bird is recommending wiring methods on their web site and in their print(able) materials that violate the NEC.

Edit: I e-mailed customer service at Ink-Bird, and PM'ed their HBT presence (@inkbird) to inform them of this issue.

Update: I have heard back from Ink-Bird, and they will be updating their web site and documentation. They seem like they want to get this right.

Update 2: As of 7/8/15 the web site and .pdf tutorial have been updated to show NEC compliant wiring recommendations. Quick, responsible response by Ink-Bird.

Brew on

 

[BaylessBrewer]

Ok. So I guess I will change it around this weekend. I'll have to use a new outlet too because the bridge tab is broken on the common side and it needs to be broken on the load side. Not a big deal. I have a box of them in the garage from the basement remodel.
The freezer circuit is on a line all by its self. I just installed that this past weekend. 15 amp breaker with 12/3 romex going to a GFCI outlet. That's all that's on it. Should be safe for a couple days

 

[day_trippr]

[...]I'll have to use a new outlet too because the bridge tab is broken on the common side and it needs to be broken on the load side.[...]

You could bridge the neutrals with a wire from screw to screw...

Cheers!

 

[BullGator]

Great thread. I just got a new Inkbird ITC-1000 and the 'wrong' wiring diagram is printed on the controller with the neutrals going to the wrong pin. I looked at their website and they still have it backwards (this was a PDF I downloaded from their website). So both the website and the actual unit matched. However, everything you see online was how I understood it should be (and what is recommended in this thread). Very confusing. I guess they need to get through some inventory before they change the diagram. However, not sure why they haven't updated their website.

I've uploaded that document to this post. The link where I found it is here:

http://www.ink-bird.com/asset/file/ITC-1000 Manual - V1.2.pdf

The ironic thing is that if you look at the picture of an actual unit wired in their PDF, it is actually wired correctly (that is, different than what they have in the wiring diagram). Go Figure!

Anyways, thanks for clearing this up for me.

 

[BullGator]

So in an effort of fairness, it looks like they have updated their website. It shows the correct wiring diagram. The wiring diagram download is now updated as well. It looks like version 1.2 was wrong but the 1.3 version is correct. I must have got their from an old link through my Google search.

I attached the 1.3 version in case anyone would like to confirm.