Is this weld ok?

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
personally I would have welded the inside if I was only welding one side because I would not want a place where little infections can start.
I do understand why he did not, he wanted you to see a good weld, and you do till you look inside.

He did not do both inside and outside because you did not ask him to
the inside would be a lot more difficult to do.

if he will do it for free have him touch up the inside. His work looks good and it has the proper heat and travel to get good penetration.

remember, welding around the outside of a pipe is not easy

Can you explain the best way to weld the inside face? I just don't see how you can do it when the access into the keg is a 12" hole - getting both hands in there for the torch + filler and also being able to see what you are doing (including underneath the fitting) doesn't seem likely?
 
Can you explain the best way to weld the inside face? I just don't see how you can do it when the access into the keg is a 12" hole - getting both hands in there for the torch + filler and also being able to see what you are doing (including underneath the fitting) doesn't seem likely?

not all welding is easy, I would do it with a TIG set up and do a 1/5 to a 1/4 nipple in each pass. I would not try to do the entire thing in one pass.

At work last Thursday we had a situation where we needed to weld the cooling area of an oil cooled transformer. @ guys tried but could not get a solid weld, I crawled under the fins, had to set the helmet up so I put my head in it to weld, not enough room to wear it into there, I also had to take the wire feed off the welder and set it up for stick Arc as there was not enough room for 2 hands in there, so I mad about 4 short passes and crawled out, we refilled the cooling oil and had no leaks.

our other choice was to call a 50 ton crane and pick it up, not in the budget. if there is a will there is a way. that nipple does not need to be done in one pass.
 
not all welding is easy, I would do it with a TIG set up and do a 1/5 to a 1/4 nipple in each pass. I would not try to do the entire thing in one pass...

Sorry I don't understand. Are you saying do 1/5 "blind" and then check, and repeat for the full weld?
Wouldn't leaving 1mm root gap between the fitting and wall, and then completing a fillet weld weld from the outside with the back side purged allow for full penetration without needing to weld from the inside? I know the OP can't do this now though.
I think someone needs to come up with a reasonable decent welding procedure for HBT for nozzles... if I had more time I would do it... or it may take some time...anyone willing to make suggestons PM me :D
 
you did not ask me to do it from the beginning, you asked me how I would fix that weld

and no it would not be blind, weld with a mirror.
 
you did not ask me to do it from the beginning, you asked me how I would fix that weld

and no it would not be blind, weld with a mirror.

But you did say that if you had done it from the start you would have welded the inside face
personally I would have welded the inside if I was only welding one side because I would not want a place where little infections can start....

Firstly, I am impressed with your skill - being able to weld well is a tough skill to master, but being able to do it in place you can not normally see by using a mirror I don't know what to call that! :)
If you were doing this from the start, what would your approach be? Given that the most common install is a set in nozzle.

If the image below was given to a welder of average experience would you expect a decnt weld in return?

Nozzle.png
 
So a question. I started scrubbing on the inside with bkf last night. Do I need to do the outside of the weld also or just the inside?

If I do the outside should I buff it first then repasivate?:confused:

Also is there a way to know its pasivated? I don't want to put my coil in the hlt and then have to pull it back out to repast ate again.
 
Will this repasivate or do I need to grind it down so it's shiny then repasivate?
Looks like he kinda grinded the top but the bottom he couldn't see he figured was good enough I guess.

image.jpg
 
But you did say that if you had done it from the start you would have welded the inside face
I would not, I would have set myself up properly so I did not need to


If the image below was given to a welder of average experience would you expect a decnt weld in return?
The average welder is not a trained welder, a trained welder that came out of a welding school would see that the picture you have does not apply to this scenario. the metal around the nipple is of a far to large scale. We are welding basically sheet to a nipple. it is not an easy weld to do properly, but if done properly there should be nor reason for a rear weld as the sheet will be replaced with the filler around the nipple and should be part of the proper puddle.
the hardest part here is to do such and get proper penetration without warping the sheet around the nipple. unless the welder does this type of work a lot he will take a lot of short passes. Just to keep that nipple square in sheet is going require 4 or 5 tacks before starting the weld.
 
What's the best way to clean up some welds??
I do have a dremel and a grinder but afraid if I use the grinder ill take to much off and be screwed. I figured I could get in there with the dremel and clean it up a bit but what kind of attachments would I use.
Maybe a 80 grit flapper wheel
Or some ceramic grinding stones for grinding/ polishing stainless?

What do you guys think
 
60 grit flapper wheal it is

Turned out pretty good. Not the same weld but it looked just as bad

Does anyone know if the ceramic dremel bits would work also??

image.jpg
 
That looks way better. Once again if in the boil kettle, not a huge deal. In your case you looked like you got down to the base metal, which should repassivate.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top