Is this weld ok?

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juic

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So after searching hundreds of posts I still couldn't find an answer

I just had this weld done on my boil kettle. Should I take it back and have him fill in the little gaps on the inside or is it good??

image.jpg
 
So after searching hundreds of posts I still couldn't find an answer

I just had this weld done on my boil kettle. Should I take it back and have him fill in the little gaps on the inside or is it good??

image.jpg
 
So you guys don't think I need to worry about the inside? I'm mainly worried about **** getting into that little gap
 
It's an ok weld that looks like it wasn't back gassed. The inside appears to have some sugaring. However, it's on your boil kettle, not your fermenter. Hit it with a little Barkeeper's Friend and a Scotchbrite pad to help repassivate the stainless. Done. The boil takes care of sanitation regardless of small imperfections.
 
I wouldnt worry a bit about it...it takes a talented person to weld that well....not saying its perfect tho...dont sweat the small ****
 
I'd say hit up a local welding supply shop for Norton Bear-Tex. Like Scotchbrite, but more "grits" available. Try the brown, then red. (Next time tell them to tape and purge with Argon for you, more involved but it leaves a better weld. We do that on all our SS pipe.)
 
It IS a BAD weld...Yuri Nailed it...it was not back-purged. The "sugaring" looks like burnt metal, but in reality that part isn't even stainless steel anymore. But like the others said, it's your boiler. I would definitely talk smack to your weld shop and try to get some money back!
 
So not to ask a stupid question but

What does repassivate the stainless mean?

What does the bar keepers friend do?

Also im guessing that norton beartex is mainly just for cleaning/polishing up the weld?
 
So I have a couple more to be welded in should I tell them I want them back purged this time? Or what's the correct lingo to use to make sure they look good and are done correctly
 
So not to ask a stupid question but

What does repassivate the stainless mean?

What does the bar keepers friend do?

Stainless steel is stainless because of the protective chromium oxides on the surface. If those oxides are removed by scouring, or by reaction with bleach, then the iron in the steel is exposed and can be rusted. Stainless steel is also vulnerable to contamination by plain carbon steel, the kind found in tools, food cans, and steel wool. This non-stainless steel tends to rub off on the surface (due to iron-to-iron affinity), and readily rusts. Once rust has breached the chromium oxides, the iron in the stainless steel can also rust. Fixing this condition calls for re-passivation.

Passivating stainless steel is typically accomplished in industry by dipping the part in a bath of nitric acid. Nitric acid dissolves any free iron or other contaminants from the surface, which cleans the metal, and it re-oxidizes the chromium; all in about 20 minutes. But you don't need a nitric acid bath to passivate. The key is to clean the stainless steel to bare metal. Once the metal is clean, the oxygen in the atmosphere will reform the protective chromium oxides instantly. The steel will nearly as passivated as if it was dipped in acid. Nitric acid passivation creates a more chromium-rich passive surface, but is not necessary for brewing use.

To passivate stainless steel at home without using a nitric acid bath, you need to clean the surface of all dirt, oils and oxides. The best way to do this is to use an oxalic acid based kitchen cleanser like those mentioned above, and a non-metallic green or white scrubby pad. Don't use steel wool, or any metal pad, even stainless steel, because this will actually promote rust. Scour the surface thoroughly and then rinse and dry it with a towel. Once you have cleaned it to bare metal it will re-passivate itself.

If you have straw-colored or bluish tinted oxides on the stainless from welding or soldering, it should be cleaned off with a scrubby and cleanser before use. The colored oxides are not passive and will lead to rusting of the stainless steel if not cleaned. You should not have to do this procedure more than once, but it can be repeated as often as necessary.

courtesy of John Palmer
 
So I have a couple more to be welded in should I tell them I want them back purged this time? Or what's the correct lingo to use to make sure they look good and are done correctly

yes, just tell them to backpurge.
 
Interesting good to know. So basically even if the welds are done correctly they need to be cleaned like you said above just to make sure. I thought that once these were welded in I'd be good to go. I'm glad I asked. Ill run to the store and see if I can find some of this bar keepers friend.

Much appreciated. Thank you:tank:
 
I'm guessing now that it's done it can't be back purged correct? Or can they go in and do it after?
 
Back purging or back gassing is done at the time of welding by flooding the area opposite the torch with inert gas (argon). It cannot be done after the fact.

It may be technically possible to fix some of the problems with that weld with a grinder and a torch, but you'll almost certainly do more harm by attempting it. Leave well enough alone at this point.
 
That's what I thought. Thank you for the responses. Ill get some bar keeper and get this all cleaned up.
 
Back purging or back gassing is done at the time of welding by flooding the area opposite the torch with inert gas (argon). It cannot be done after the fact.

It may be technically possible to fix some of the problems with that weld with a grinder and a torch, but you'll almost certainly do more harm by attempting it. Leave well enough alone at this point.

There seems to be a good deal of fillet on the outside so could he not grind back to good material and then passivate... of coarse that depends on his skills, maybe a flap wheel on a drill would be the best approach to do this.
 
you could ship them down here and have a professional do it...lol
 
I take it your a welder
How bout you just come up here. Well make beer drink beer and do done welding :)
 
If it does not leak and aesthetically acceptable, then you're good to go. If you are concerned about contamination, don't be because its a boil kettle and anything in there is going to be killed during the boil anyways:D
 
So this is what the weld looks like from the inside. Is it back purged?

On my next weld would I be better off having them stick the ferrule through a bit then welding instead of welding to the surface of the keg??

image.jpg
 
So this is what the weld looks like from the inside. Is it back purged?

On my next weld would I be better off having them stick the ferrule through a bit then welding instead of welding to the surface of the keg??

No, this is still not back purged, they ground the inside crap off this time.
 
So I found a local guy in town that did all my welds for free :rockin:

This is what they look like. I know not the best looking but for free you can't beat the price:ban:

I figure I hit all the inside with bkf and I should be good. All the welds on the insure look about the same.

image.jpg
 
Welds look pretty good just not stacked like dimes. I personally would've welded the inside as well just to make it look more finished as well as not leaving any gaps/cracks to let crud find a place to live.
 
Welds look pretty good just not stacked like dimes. I personally would've welded the inside as well just to make it look more finished as well as not leaving any gaps/cracks to let crud find a place to live.

While I'm not a welder so can't really talk :eek:, but wouldn't it be near impossible to weld the inside of a fitting in the side of keg? I doon't really know exactly how you get a nice "weld" on the inside - I guess that a bit more of a root gap and a bit more heat to fully penetrate the parent metal????

But in all honesty they look goo for BK/MLT/HLT welds - especially for free!
 
personally I would have welded the inside if I was only welding one side because I would not want a place where little infections can start.
I do understand why he did not, he wanted you to see a good weld, and you do till you look inside.

He did not do both inside and outside because you did not ask him to
the inside would be a lot more difficult to do.

if he will do it for free have him touch up the inside. His work looks good and it has the proper heat and travel to get good penetration.

remember, welding around the outside of a pipe is not easy
 

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