• Please visit and share your knowledge at our sister communities:
  • If you have not, please join our official Homebrewing Facebook Group!

    Homebrewing Facebook Group

Is this corny keg salvageable?

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

RyPA

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 10, 2017
Messages
1,138
Reaction score
647
Location
NJ
I got 2 corny kegs & a glass carboy at a garage sale 10 or so years ago for like $25. One of the 2 kegs I've never used and recently gave it a cleaning with a PBW soak overnight and some scrubbing. I got most of the residue that was in there out, but the bottom does not look that great. Do you guys think this is salvageable, or should I toss it? I was considering getting some bar keepers friend to see if it can clear up those marks. If this is no good, likely going to pick up a 6g torpedo keg.

PXL_20211231_175418464.jpg
 
I'm thinking rust, as I scrubbed it a bit, did a 24 hour PBW soak, a second 6 hour PBW soak, and it's standing it's ground

If it is rust, does that make this keg toast, or can I get it shined up and fill it with beer?
 
don't know...



maybe this would help

https://www.google.com/search?q=iro...akgEGMC4yMC4xmAEAoAEByAEIwAEB&sclient=gws-wiz
says iron oxide is soluble in dilute acetic acid?
For rust removal Oxalic acid or Phosphoric acid are better than acetic.
I believe one or both are components of "Naval Jelly".
You should repassivate after using rust remover.

Ooh, I just remembered, Morton Salt company sells a product called "Rust Out" that works pretty well for removing surface rust stains. It contains Sodium Bisulfate I believe and it smells like rotten eggs when it is working.
Might be worth a try as well.
 
Last edited:
well i just tried 50/50 mix of glacial acetic and water on some rust spots on cast iron....no love....

but with cast iron i can always cook on some oil to cover it up....
 
Have you tried using a Scotch Brite pad on it? Yes, it would be work but if you got different grit levels of those, you might be able to remove what's in there. Then passivate it to keep it good. I use citric acid to passivate stainless here. Using a HOT solution (140-160F) shortens the time needed by a large factor. IIRC the document I read listed the concentration should be in the 5-10% range. I usually use 10% for what I'm doing (small items). I bought a five pound bag of citric acid off Amazon for pretty short money (IMO). Still got a good amount left too.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OZFECU
 
You guys can't actually reach your arm to the bottom of a corny, can you? My arms are long but too thick. I barely get past my elbow.
 
I can get an inch or so of my bicep in there but that's it, so I can hardly reach the bottom. I bought some BKF tonight, going to give it 30 mins of soak time and then try using a scrub brush
 
After a few treatments of BKF, the spots are still there. I guess if they survived this, they will not impact beer?
PXL_20220101_012055902.jpg
 
The beer will probably be fine. But if it was my keg, I'd get some kind of brush to those stains. Even light contact with a heavy brush could do the job after a proper soaking. Probably does not matter though.
 
The beer will probably be fine. But if it was my keg, I'd get some kind of brush to those stains. Even light contact with a heavy brush could do the job after a proper soaking. Probably does not matter though.
They may be pits in the stainless.
 
I have had that at the bottom of the keg and I also cannot reach the bottom of the keg. Some BKF sprinkled at the bottom, a scotch brite pad, long spoon to move the scrubbie pad, and some elbow grease fixed it.
 
I brushed it pretty hard multiple times, and did some brillo scrubbing. In addition to multiple PBW and BKF soaks.
 
An overnight treatment starting with 150°F 4-8% by weight citric acid will fry out the exposed iron (do not seal the lid!). Then thoroughly rinse, invert to drip dry, and allow air exposure to "grow" chromium oxide over the fried out regions.

fwiw, it's been noted countless times before on hbt, the two best acids for this are nitric and citric. Not oxalic (BKF) or phosphoric (Star San).
Fortunately citric is cheap and easy to handle. Nitric not so much ;)

Cheers!
 
Thanks buddy. Where does one get Citric acid? When I search on Amazon, I get food grade results
 
Interesting that stuff you can eat can take off rust that PBW and BKF can't.
 
Will the rust return? If this is something Ill have to do maintenance on I may just replace it. Or is this a one time deal?
 
Theoretically, no. The rusted areas are defects in a field of otherwise nicely "sealed" stainless steel. So once you've removed the exposed iron particles the chromium content should do its thing same as the areas that were not afflicted by exposed iron and grow the chromium oxide that prevents the iron content from turning into iron oxide...

Cheers!
 
Theoretically, no. The rusted areas are defects in a field of otherwise nicely "sealed" stainless steel. So once you've removed the exposed iron particles the chromium content should do its thing same as the areas that were not afflicted by exposed iron and grow the chromium oxide that prevents the iron content from turning into iron oxide...

Cheers!


hey, out of curiosity...those rust stains on my cast iron went away after drying with the acetic acid scrub....where does the iron oxide go, and i ask to know how important the drip dry phase is?
 
Would the 4oz package be enough for this job? I'd rather buy a new keg then spend $25 on acid to improve this one. I know, I'm crazy. But I could also use the extra gallon of space.
 
Back
Top