Is it ok to use pH test strips instead of a digital pH meters?

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Beginnier927

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Hi everyone
I'm fairy new to this hobby
I don't wanna spend in a digital pH meter just yet, there are cheap ones out there but people say they're unreliable, I have read John palmers book, there were some mentions of using pH test papers, is it ok to use them? Is the color of the paper affected by the dark color of roasted malts
 
I tried pH strips and found them to be more or less useless. I got this meter and it's been going strong for two years now. As with any pH meter, you need to calibrate frequently if you want accurate results.

If you're relatively new to brewing, I don't see any problem holding off on pH measurement. Take the money you would have spent and put it towards a water analysis or (if your water is questionable) an RO system. Honestly, calculation has always gotten me close enough. I've missed my mash pH target badly only a few times, and even then the beer was fine.
 
I used test strips occasionally for seeing if my pale ales and other light colored beers were in the ballpark. They always were. And if you've used test strips for other things then you probably can get the results fairly well matched to the chart they give you even though the colors don't run true.

When I started doing dark porters, I found that pH test strips were useless as the color in the beer made them too hard to red.

So depending on what you are brewing, YMMV.

But you don't have to know what the pH is if your beer tastes good when you try it. But if you are having issues that might be due to pH, then maybe a pH meter will be worth it. Otherwise just know what your water analysis is. And make any needed adjustments based on that.
 
You may not need a pH meter (for the mash) if you use RO or very soft water.
Any idea what your brewing water's mineral composition is?
I have an RO system, I don't know what my water analysis looks like, can't really get one, unless I take it to a lab and pay lots of money
 
I have an RO system, I don't know what my water analysis looks like, can't really get one, unless I take it to a lab and pay lots of money

$40-ish or so at Ward's Labs. But yeah it's OK to call that a lot. Or if you are indeed in Iran then I'm not sure it's even an option.

If you've got RO water then you can basically just use a calculator and pretty much trust it. No need to analyze RO unless you think it's broken. Well, you can trust them for pH up to a point anyhow, it's hard to know the actual pH because it can vary from grain to grain, year to year, etc.
 
$40-ish or so at Ward's Labs. But yeah it's OK to call that a lot. Or if you are indeed in Iran then I'm not sure it's even an option.

If you've got RO water then you can basically just use a calculator and pretty much trust it. No need to analyze RO unless you think it's broken. Well, you can trust them for pH up to a point anyhow, it's hard to know the actual pH because it can vary from grain to grain, year to year, etc.
Yeah I do live in Iran, there are labs that do all kinds of tests but it's not worth it since I'm not a pro and this isn't my job, I make my own beer cause I can't get real beer here, it's not legal, hard to find, most Iranians beers here are made using enzymes and there's no active fermentation as it will produce alcohol
 
I have an RO system,
No need for (pricey) lab tests.

As long as the filters and RO membrane function as they're supposed to, your output water should be virtually mineral free.
A fairly cheap ($10-20) TDS meter is likely all you need to monitor that. They'll last many years.

As long as your TDS readings are low, between 0 and 20 ppm, your system is working alright. Even up to 50 ppm can still be very fine for most brewing.
 
Well, the sensor, and if it's not replaceable, the meter.

I've had an Apera ph60 since 2018. I've replaced the sensor twice, the 2nd this February, so figure 2 years per sensor. Along with its specs, the relatively economical sensor price ($32 delivered via Amazon) was why I bought the ph60 in the first place, having experienced the $85 sensor price for my first pH meter (Hanna HI98128) and the $139 price for the Hach Pocket Pro Plus replacement sensor (insert hair-on-fire emoticon here)...

Cheers!
 
I just bought an Apera ph20 during prime day and I am not upset at the $50 investment. I bought a a cheap one originally and no matter how I calibrated it my readings were always way acidic. The PH20 during todays brew reinstated my confidence in my water profiles.

I do believe in buy once, cry once … in this case I cried once and bought twice. Lessened learned
 
No need for (pricey) lab tests.

As long as the filters and RO membrane function as they're supposed to, your output water should be virtually mineral free.
A fairly cheap ($10-20) TDS meter is likely all you need to monitor that. They'll last many years.

As long as your TDS readings are low, between 0 and 20 ppm, your system is working alright. Even up to 50 ppm can still be very fine for most brewing.
So I need soft water for brewing? What about pH, how can I make sure I'm doing it the right way without knowing my pH?
 
So I need soft water for brewing? What about pH, how can I make sure I'm doing it the right way without knowing my pH?

Water with extremely low minerality such as RO is great for brewing because you know what it is and can build up from scratch with a calculator.

Water pH matters not one bit, it's mash pH that matters all. With RO, there is near zero alkalinity, no buffering. The water (other than volume) has zero affect on the mash pH which becomes a matter of the grain acidity along with whatever salts the calculator suggests. The water's starting pH is irrelevant.
 
So I need soft water for brewing? What about pH, how can I make sure I'm doing it the right way without knowing my pH?
It's been answered, but just to say it again or slightly differently, RO water will give you basically a "blank slate". Then it's very easy to add your salts and such and know exactly how much Ca, Cl, SO4, etc. you have. It'll also be a step easier to predict the mash pH in the same calculator when you input your grain used. You don't have to use RO water, but it certainly works, and in some cases such as yours might be far easier.

Alternately do a lab test, and cross your fingers your water source doesn't change frequently.
 
Since you have an RO system, take a look at "Modern Homebrew Recipes," by Gordon Strong. His recipes are based on RO water and require minimal additions of salts & acids. A key point is the addition of non-base malts (roasted, crystal, etc) to the mash tun after conversion of the base malts has completed. These later additions provide color and flavor, but have no effect on the mash conversion pH. This should allow you to make great beers without the need of a meter. I have a meter, but have brewed some of his recipes with RO water and without pH testing. I've been very happy with the results.
 
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