Is Extra Sensor Worth It/Needed?

CodeSection · May 2, 2018

I'm setting up a two vessel RIMS system using one 5500W heating element similar to the BrewEasy system except my kettles will be side-by-side. I will be using two pumps and will be circulating between themselves as well as each other at different times.

The controller will also have two pump controls and one sensor (monitors BK). I learned that I can add a second sensor (that will report to a separate DSPR120) to the controller. I'm not sure what the true benefit would be to have two sensors (one on each kettle) since there will only be one heating element.

Is it worth getting the extra sensor to be attached to the MT's bottom valve just to monitor that tempt? The BK will have a sensor at its bottom valve. Plus, both kettles will have a dial thermometer. Is the extra sensor overkill?

augiedoggy · May 2, 2018

Well there will always be a temp differential between the kettle with the element in it and the other one, especially if something is amiss, so it may help to know what your actual mash temp is... I used a manual thermometer installed in the side for years and recently went with another pt100 probe so I can actually see how the two compare in real time in a graph on brucontrol.

Where is the probe located in the kettle with the element in it? There is likely going to be temp stratification in your "rims" kettle at all temps below boiling so the best place to mount it would be in a tee at the outlet.

CodeSection · May 2, 2018

Thanks for getting back to me. I was going to install the one sensor in a tee on the BK's outlet valve at the bottom of the kettle. The BK will have the 5500W element in it. If I bought a second sensor along with a DSPR120, it would be installed in a tee on the MT's outlet valve at the bottom of the kettle.

Both the BK and MT will have manual thermometers in installed in the sides as well. On the BK, the manual thermometer is 4" up from the bottom and on the MT it is 6" up from the bottom.

I would imagine the manual thermometers will read differently just because of their location. So, I guess they would only be a reference that really will not be relied upon.

Would a second sensor give a more precise reading that will make a difference on how and when to adjust the BK's heating element? Or will the BK's sensor along with the manual thermometer on the MK side be sufficient?

Genuine · May 3, 2018

Here's my 2 Vessel K-Rims System I use. Currently I have a sensor in the T for the Sight Glass (However it's not long enough to make it out to the inside of the kettle so it don't think it's a good reading. Also makes it a huge pain to boil when it can't really read kettle temp) and one in the T at the mashtun ball valve. I'm building another system just like it and I'm going to put a temp sensor in the kettle wall so it's more accurate and a temp sensor in the mash tun in to read temps while it's recirculating. I'd rather know what the temp is going into the mash tun, rather than out.....Reasong being is that I don't want higher temperature than wanted wort to make it's way into the mash tun to increase temp, run through the grains to make the change at the mashtun outlet. I'm also using MyPIN PID's and I can't seem to figure out how to get them to maintain a steadier temp depsite doing several autotune's. So the new build will be using InkBirds ITC-106VH. I think with those tweeks, it'll be perfect and I like gravity feeding from the mash into the kettle. I can dial in the flow rate quickly and I use the full volume of water needed for the batch.

stevehaun · May 3, 2018

Why do you need a temp sensor on the outlet valve of your BK? The only reason I can think of is that some PIDs require a sensor to work. You will adjust the power to your BK based on the strength of the boil you desire - you will boil at near 212F depending on your elevation. You need a temp sensor on the outlet side of your RIMS. Another sensor at the outlet of your MT would be nice to monitor temps while recirculating. There will always be a small gradient between the outlet of your RIMS and the outlet of your MT.

Smellyglove · May 3, 2018

I don't feel I understood everything correctly. But I'd say you'd want one temp sensor at the outlet of your HEX, and one monitoring the mash-temps, a sensor in the mash tun in other words. The mashing temperature is the temp you want to monitor, and you'd want the temp in HEX and MT to be as close as possible. With a sensor in the MT you can adust the offset needed in the HEX to hit your desired temp in the MT.

It also aids in seeing if your recirculation is getting stuck as the temp in the HEX will rise abnormally comparing to the temp in the MT. When just holding a temp this is no issue since the temp in the HEX should not rise. But when ramping, you can see if the temp in the HEX starts to rise abnormally fast comparing to the MT.

CodeSection · May 3, 2018

Thanks everyone. I do appreciate your advice and help! I ended up buying an extra sensor along with changing out a timer with a DSPR300 (not a DSPR120 since I have an external alarm). If I ever expand and decide to add a second heating element, at least my controller will already be configured to use a second heater. Though, since it is 30A system, I could only use one heater at a time.