IPA...recipe advice.

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FlemingsFinest

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Just looking for some feedback on a recipe that I have developed and will try in about a month. Specifically, should I bitter with more Magnum hops than I have listed? Thanks!

Batch Size: 5 Gallons
Type: All Grain
Target OG: 1.060
Boil Time: 60 Mins
Anticipated Efficiency: 70%

grains:
10 lb Pale Ale Malt
0.5 lbs Caramel 60
0.5 lbs Vienna Malt
0.5 lbs Victory Malt
0.25 lbs Carapils

Mash at 152F.
Mash Volume 3.75
60 Min mash.

Batch sparge with enough 172F water to achieve a boil volume of 6.5 gal.

Boil
Target Boil Volume: 6.5 gallons

Hop Additions:

0.50 Oz Magnum 60 min
0.50 Oz Cascade 20 Min
0.75 Oz Centennial 15 min
0.50 Oz Cascade 10 Min
0.50 Oz Cascade 5 Min
0.25 Oz Centennial 2 Min

1 Packet Dry Nottingham Yeast


Primary Ferment
10 days

transfer to secondary

Dry Hop 7 days
0.75 Oz Cascade
0.50 Oz Centennial
 
I don't want to hijack your topic, but I have a similar question about a similar recipe with Vienna and crystal. I've never brewed with Vienna... is the maltiness mild enough that the crystal in equal amounts will overpower and render it pointless? In the context of the OP's recipe.... because I don't want to hijack. And furthermore... if Marris Otter is the base malt, does anything change?
 
I don't want to hijack your topic, but I have a similar question about a similar recipe with Vienna and crystal. I've never brewed with Vienna... is the maltiness mild enough that the crystal in equal amounts will overpower and render it pointless? In the context of the OP's recipe.... because I don't want to hijack. And furthermore... if Marris Otter is the base malt, does anything change?

nothing really changes, some people claim that marris otter will impart a slightly maltier flavor.
 
Just looking for some feedback on a recipe that I have developed and will try in about a month. Specifically, should I bitter with more Magnum hops than I have listed? Thanks!

Hop Additions:

0.50 Oz Magnum 60 min
0.50 Oz Cascade 20 Min
0.75 Oz Centennial 15 min
0.50 Oz Cascade 10 Min
0.50 Oz Cascade 5 Min
0.25 Oz Centennial 2 Min


Dry Hop 7 days
0.75 Oz Cascade
0.50 Oz Centennial

I am drinking an IPA with magnum bittering right now (which is delicious I might add) and I used 1.5 oz for 60 mins. which gave me about 72 IBUs on it's own. With my other additions my IBUs made it up to 90. I like my beers hoppy! Your IBUs as they stand will land you in the middle ground of the IPA genre, so essentially it's up to you, but I would probably go to 0.75-1.0 oz. IMO.
 
Just looking for some feedback on a recipe that I have developed and will try in about a month. Specifically, should I bitter with more Magnum hops than I have listed? Thanks!

Batch Size: 5 Gallons
Type: All Grain
Target OG: 1.060
Boil Time: 60 Mins
Anticipated Efficiency: 70%

grains:
10 lb Pale Ale Malt
0.5 lbs Caramel 60
0.5 lbs Vienna Malt
0.5 lbs Victory Malt
0.25 lbs Carapils

Mash at 152F.
Mash Volume 3.75
60 Min mash.

Batch sparge with enough 172F water to achieve a boil volume of 6.5 gal.

Boil
Target Boil Volume: 6.5 gallons

Hop Additions:

0.50 Oz Magnum 60 min
0.50 Oz Cascade 20 Min
0.75 Oz Centennial 15 min
0.50 Oz Cascade 10 Min
0.50 Oz Cascade 5 Min
0.25 Oz Centennial 2 Min

1 Packet Dry Nottingham Yeast


Primary Ferment
10 days

transfer to secondary

Dry Hop 7 days
0.75 Oz Cascade
0.50 Oz Centennial

I vote "YES" on more bittering, just make sure its within reason. I didn't see the IBUs listed, but I plugged it into beersmith really quick and it looks like you're only hitting about 23IBUs with that bittering addition. I'm sure you could go for a little more than .5oz...maybe .5-.75oz as Garbo suggested. That should put you closer to 40, which is getting closer to the true IPA range(40-70).

I've heard people doing All-Vienna malt IPAs, so I don't think you can go wrong, even if you added a bit more. I believe my last one had around 3lbs, but that was a 10g batch. Not sure how it would contrast with the crystal malts. You may be better off having a higher ratio of Vienna to Crystal...but I really don't know.

I also think you could go for more dry hops if you wanted, depending on how much aroma you get from your late additions. I remember reading that 2oz is suggested for dry hopping an American IPA, if you want a solid aroma. See what you think after tasting it from primary, and decide from there.

Regardless, it sounds delicious as-is!!
 
up to you, IMO it's pretty well balanced right now, but upping the magnum would be fine as well. FWH'ing the magnum add is another option to consider as well. I'd ditch the secondary tho, there's no need for it, and leave it in the primary longer (3-4 weeks total). Just add the dry hops 5-7 days before you plan to bottle.
 
Thanks. yeah i don't have IBU's listed because I dont have any beer making software yet. all of my calculations are done manually, and after calculating out this recipe i was too lazy to figure out my IBU's when i posted this. I think I am going to up it to .75 magnum. As for my malts, I was talking to a friend of mine who is very experienced in homebrewing, and he suggested upping my Vienna to 1 lb, leaving the others the same.
 
It might just be my West-Coastyness, but I'd bump up your last two additions quite a bit. All of my IPAs have at least 1oz at flameout, and that's for my milder IPAs. I'd bump up your dry hopping as well. Also with the West Coast influence, I keep my BU:GU ratio around 1.2:1 or 1.3:1. Magnum is a super clean bittering hop, so I'd shoot for going a little over instead of a little under.

As far as the malt bill goes, I think the Vienna and victory will give a nice toastyness, but I'm not sure if there's enough Crystal or Carapils. The Victory and Vienna will give you some nice flavor, but it won't provide a significant amount of unfermentables, so you might end up too dry.
 
I like IPA's and your calculated IBUs aren't going to be actual.

At that gravity, I would consider doubling every hop addition.
 
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