IPA Ingredient help.

[Psywar]

I was wondering if someone could help me out with a recipe?
I would like to kind of replicate a beer a really enjoy: https://lordhobobrewing.com/beer/consolation-prize/

The website shows it was brewed with Pilsner Malt and Spelt.
Hopped using: Jarrylo, Azacca & Mosaic
The IBU is around 70 and the ABV is 9.5%

I wanted to do this as an extract brew or I can also do a partial mash as well.

Has anyone had this beer before and could kind of help me formulate my own version of it?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Psywar]

This is what I have been considering - the last day or so. I am super green when it comes to making my own brews so if I am missing something here feel free to let me know. - I kinda want it to have a pineapple feel to it.
This will also end up being an extract or partial mash brew. So I will have to convert the 14lbs of Pils to some sort of liquid extract.


14 lbs 12 oz Pilsner (2 Row)
3 lb Spelt Malt

1.0 oz Jarrylo - FWH

0.5 oz Jarrylo - 15 min boil

1.0 oz Mosaic - 5 min boil
1.0 oz Azacca - 5 min boil

1.0 oz Azacca - (Flame Out 15 min Steep)
1.0 oz Mosaic - (Flame Out 15 min Steep)

Cool wort to 170F
1.0 oz Azacca - (20 mins)
1.0 oz Mosaic - (20 mins)

1.0 oz Azacca - (3 days after fermentation)
1.0 oz Mosaic - (3 days after fermentation)
0.5 oz Jarrylo - (3 days after fermentation)

2 cups of pineapple juice in secondary * possibly

 

[DromJohn]

No time to fine tune, but dump the Maris Otter, C20 and Wheat.
Consider 3 lb Spelt, it's quite different.
I've been using Best Malz Spelt from Chicago Brew Werks. They also have Weyermann

 

[Psywar]

Alright - I updated my document.
I also added it to Beer Smith.
The ABV is right around where it should be. The IBU is quite high, but I think it is still in a good range for a double IPA.

 

[Redtab78]

I would probably use jarrylo as the FWH and the 15 min mark, move the azacca and mosaic all to the end of the boil. adjust the amounts as needed to get to 70IBU, but I am guessing around 1oz jarrylo at FWH, and then again with .5oz at the 15 min mark, then starting at 5 min mark go with mosaic and azacca (1oz) then again at flame out....without having my programs infront of me to see what the amounts would be, I would just guess at about 1oz ea. then start chilling the wort (assuming you can use an immersion chiller here) get the wort to about 170 (ish) then stop the chilling and do another 1oz each of azacca and mosaic and let it sit for about 20 min, then continue chilling.

Then for the dry hop, I'd do 1oz mosaic/azacca and .5oz jarrylo 3 days after fermentation starts and let it ride until fermentation is done...

This is just my guess at it though as I have not had that particular beer before, but I have played with those hops in other beers.

 

[Psywar]

Thanks!
I updated the second post with the new specifications - When I get home from work I will add it to Beersmith and see what the IBU's come to.

The IBU's actually jumped doing it the new way.
I might have to get rid of the hop addition during the 20min steep time during the cooling down of the wort.

 

[Redtab78]

sorry about not seeing this until now, when you set your steep time hops, you hve to make sure you adjust the temp down to 170ish range. you should not be getting any IBU additions from the hops down that low of a temp, or if any at all it should be very minimal. To adjust the IBU down, drop the boil additions down to the 5 min mark vice the 15min or maybe down to the 10 min mark.

when I am creating a recipie, I usually figure out what I want my ABV, SRM and IBU to be in the end product, and then when adding the ingredients, I play with the malt to get the target OG set (then I usually add just a tad bit past but thats based off what I know I get from my mash efficiency etc) then I start adding the hops. It usually takes me a while to get all the amount and times just right, but lets say I am shooting for about 50IBU, and I know I am getting 30 IBUs from my bitter charge, then I know I have to limit my final additions to stay at 20IBU's (which is in the 5th column, and you cut that one out of your screen shot) and if I plan to do a steep/whirlpool, then I usually add that charge to my recipe first, then work backwards to figure out what I can do at the 0,5,10 min marks etc.). Then I have a choice to either reduce my bitter charge, or I will play with my water profile a little bit, and increase/decrease the sulfate to chloride ratio. Higher sulfates with lower chloride will increase perceived bitterness and (to me) come out a little bit crisper and dryer mouthfeel, and higher chlorides to sulfates will decrease the bitterness but increase the mouthfeel resulting in a "creamier" type of mouthfeel.

I did not start out playing with water though, I only started playing with the hops and times, but as I started fine tuning my process and beers, thats when I started manipulating the beer with salts, so for now if I was you I would simply just adjust the hop addition amounts and times to fine tune where you want to be (but dont change the dry hops, only the hot side hops).


Hope that helps a little and doesnt confuse you

 

[Psywar]

Hey!
I appreciate you getting back to me.
Yeah, some of the wording I will have to google to figure out what it means, but for the most part, I understand what you mean overall and how you set up your beers.
I will add the 20 min @ 170F steep addition back into the recipe and then adjust the hop amounts and times to try and get it down to 70IBU's.

Very informative - I got to learn about FWH as well.
I am still in the process of figuring out how I want to do the grains for this. I don't quite have the setup for the all grain bill nor do I have a kettle large enough - so I am going to probably do a partial mash.

Right now I am considering
9lbs Pilsner LME
3lbs Pilsner Malt
3lbs Spelt Malt

Can I do the FWH right in my Mash Tun then?
I have a 5g Mash Tun aka Igloo Cooler
and a 5g Kettle which is why I was only going to mash 6lbs of grain.

I was considering doing half the LME during the 60min boil and then adding the rest when there were about 10mins left to help with the efficiencies.

 

[Redtab78]

Well, you COULD but that wouldnt be a FWH and it would end in a much different IBU contribution as the hops would be left behind in the mash tun once you sparged into the kettle. I add my hops right into the kettle and then drain my mash tun into the kettle and once I start my sparge/runoff then I also start heating up for the boil so that about the time I am done with the runoff and am at my full boiling mark, the wort is close to starting to boil already.....its just a timing thing for that though. You dont have to do all of that, you can simply mash, collect (add hops into wort as you are collecting) and then when you have the amount you want start the boil process, as soon as the hot break happens (or when you start seeing the actual "boil") then start your timer for the 60min boil.

On another note, adding part of the LME towards the end will also produce a much different outcome, as it will not be in the boil throughout the entire process therefor giving off a different flavor, but thats the fun of homebrewing, you can do whatever you want and still end up with a beer!

 

[Psywar]

Thank you very much for all your time and help!
I am hoping to brew this near the end of October maybe Nov.
I will try and remember to tag you and let you know how it turns out.