Inkbird itc-308? $35 gets you wired, 2 stage temp controller.

[blacklabel8829]

Did you try restoring it back to the factory settings? I believe the manual has instructions on how to do so. Otherwise, contact Inkbird. I'm sure they'll send you another unit.

Every time it does this it resets the settings, I think it's stuck in a reset loop or something. I contacted Inkbird, and I can always get an exchange from Amazon.

 

[inkbird]

Every time it does this it resets the settings, I think it's stuck in a reset loop or something. I contacted Inkbird, and I can always get an exchange from Amazon.

We have replied you on Amazon and our email address. Replacement is available.

 

[Jwin]

@inkbird. Any plans to make a high voltage model we can use for electric brewing?

 

[inkbird]

@inkbird. Any plans to make a high voltage model we can use for electric brewing?

Higher Voltage? Our pre-wired thermostats all are 100 - 240V. Is it ok for you?

Or you meant the larger electric current? We are researching to wire the PID thermostats with F display. We think PID thermostats are good for larger electric brewing. It will be released after we test well.

 

[Jwin]

Higher Voltage? Our pre-wired thermostats all are 100 - 240V. Is it ok for you?

Or you meant the larger electric current? We are researching to wire the PID thermostats with F display. We think PID thermostats are good for larger electric brewing. It will be released after we test well.

:what: I meant wattage. Sorry, it was a long day. Shouldn't post right before bed.
Would love to see you guys put out a PID in a box, ready to use/brew.

 

[VolDoc]

Bumping the thread for a question...

I noticed that earlier in the thread there was a wiring issue with the unit. Without having to read through all 28 pages, can anyone answer whether or not this issue has been fixed? I wanted to purchase one from Amazon and wanted to make sure that it will be up to code. Thanks in advance!

 

[blacklabel8829]

Bumping the thread for a question...

I noticed that earlier in the thread there was a wiring issue with the unit. Without having to read through all 28 pages, can anyone answer whether or not this issue has been fixed? I wanted to purchase one from Amazon and wanted to make sure that it will be up to code. Thanks in advance!

I bought mine through Amazon a couple months ago and it had the updated wiring.

 

[VolDoc]

I bought mine through Amazon a couple months ago and it had the updated wiring.

Thanks for the quick reply! I would imagine there is a picture out there of what the correct wiring is supposed to look like?

 

[blacklabel8829]

Thanks for the quick reply! I would imagine there is a picture out there of what the correct wiring is supposed to look like?

Check here: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=536763&page=8

Scroll down 5 posts to Inkbird's post, it has a pic of what it shouldn't look like and more. The 308 I received actually was having a different issue, but they replaced it overnight and were very easy to work with.

 

[VolDoc]

Check here: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=536763&page=8

Scroll down 5 posts to Inkbird's post, it has a pic of what it shouldn't look like and more. The 308 I received actually was having a different issue, but they replaced it overnight and were very easy to work with.

Awesome! Thanks a bunch. So when I place the probe in the fermentation chamber, should it be in the fermenting liquid, or will taping it to the side of the vessel suffice? I really just want to ferment around a consistent 65-68 ambient depending on the beer.

 

[blacklabel8829]

Awesome! Thanks a bunch. So when I place the probe in the fermentation chamber, should it be in the fermenting liquid, or will taping it to the side of the vessel suffice? I really just want to ferment around a consistent 65-68 ambient depending on the beer.

The general consensus is to tape it to the side of the fermenting vessel but making sure to also tape some sort of insulation over it (foam, washcloth, etc.) to get a more accurate reading of the vessel.

 

[VolDoc]

The general consensus is to tape it to the side of the fermenting vessel but making sure to also tape some sort of insulation over it (foam, washcloth, etc.) to get a more accurate reading of the vessel.

Thanks blacklabel, you've been a big help. As far as output is concerned, the 308 model should be capable enough to handle a 7 cu/ft deep freezer correct?

 

[blacklabel8829]

Thanks blacklabel, you've been a big help. As far as output is concerned, the 308 model should be capable enough to handle a 7 cu/ft deep freezer correct?

It is rated for 1000W(120V) output, so as long as your freezer plus heating element are under 1000W(120V) you should be fine.

 

[TxBigHops]

Awesome! Thanks a bunch. So when I place the probe in the fermentation chamber, should it be in the fermenting liquid, or will taping it to the side of the vessel suffice? I really just want to ferment around a consistent 65-68 ambient depending on the beer.

I control temps by keeping my carboy in a temp controlled water bath. The Inkbird probe is in the water. I initially tried putting the probe in the wort, but that did not work out. By the time the water had cooled the wort back down to the set temp, it was so much colder that it kept cooling the wort far below my target temp. By controlling the temp of the water bath, I find that the wort is typically only a few tenths of a degree warmer even during active fermentation, and after that subsides, is usually within one tenth of a degree of the water bath. So there is way less flucuation of the wort temp. I have a second temp probe that I keep in the wort, just for monitoring purposes.

Others have stated that they had similar overshooting issues with air cooling, but I think that most people using the inkbird do tape it to the side of their carboy and insulate the probe from the ambient air.

 

[VolDoc]

I control temps by keeping my carboy in a temp controlled water bath. The Inkbird probe is in the water. I initially tried putting the probe in the wort, but that did not work out. By the time the water had cooled the wort back down to the set temp, it was so much colder that it kept cooling the wort far below my target temp. By controlling the temp of the water bath, I find that the wort is typically only a few tenths of a degree warmer even during active fermentation, and after that subsides, is usually within one tenth of a degree of the water bath. So there is way less flucuation of the wort temp. I have a second temp probe that I keep in the wort, just for monitoring purposes.

Others have stated that they had similar overshooting issues with air cooling, but I think that most people using the inkbird do tape it to the side of their carboy and insulate the probe from the ambient air.

Thanks for the tips! Cheers!

 

[augiedoggy]

inkbird now sells long temp probes that you can install into an additional hole in the rubber stopper next to the airlock for better temp control... I use the same setup with my stc1000 units... Works very well.

 

[TxBigHops]

inkbird now sells long temp probes that you can install into an additional hole in the rubber stopper next to the airlock for better temp control... I use the same setup with my stc1000 units... Works very well.

This is what I use: http://www.brewershardware.com/16-Stainless-Steel-Thermowell.html Fits perfectly in a 3/8" drilled stopper - very snug. Either my Inkbird probe, or the probe from the thermometer I use fits perfectly in this thermowell. But as I stated, for me, the temperature flucuations were too great when I was operating my cooling system based on the temp of the wort. When using farenheit, the smallest differential you can use is 1 degree, and after my wort reached the set temp, it would continue cooling for about another 1.5 degrees, so 2.5 degrees flucuation each cycle. I wasn't satisfied with that. I switched my Inkbird to centigrade, but was still getting nearly a 2 degree F fluctuation. With my current system of controlling the water outside the carboy, my wort fluctuation is only about 0.5 - 0.8 degrees F.

 

[Jwin]

Same here in my upright freezer 60l speidel combo
I just got one of these to use in the thermowell

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R42K82C/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

I'll leave the probe taped to a can drink to average out the Temps and monitor with the cheap thermometer

 

[TxBigHops]

Same here in my upright freezer 60l speidel combo
I just got one of these to use in the thermowell

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R42K82C/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

I'll leave the probe taped to a can drink to average out the Temps and monitor with the cheap thermometer

Yup. That is the exact thermometer I bought! It works very well and is within 0.1F of my Inkbird.

 

[EcuPirate07]

Can you get a pic of this in action just so I can't get a visual.

 

[Jwin]

Pic of what? Still waiting on the $5 thermo to get here on the boat from china.

 

[EcuPirate07]

Pic of what? Still waiting on the $5 thermo to get here on the boat from china.

Wanted to see how you guys have it set up

 

[TxBigHops]

Wanted to see how you guys have it set up

Here's a thread with a bunch of pics of my setup.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=545149

 

[inkbird]

Nice job @inkbird . Very nice. I hope you sell a bunch of them. Best of luck

Thanks for your definition about our items. We will try our best to improve our item and research more items for you.

 

[inkbird]

Agreed, no application that I can think of.

However, I'm sure some people would be interested if @inkbird wants to make an affordable controller that lets you add a few different temperatures steps with a timer for each. Then, for example, you could set it to 65°F for a few days, ramp up to 75°F for a week, and then cold crash at 35°F for a few days to complete the process.

This one can fit your need. Six periods of time programs.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B019Q3K4EI/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

More details is here.
http://ink-bird.com/asset/file/ITC-310T_ Manual_ V1.5b.pdf

Thanks.

 

[GeorgeH2013]

This looks pretty good, @inkbird. I was ready to order the original one from this post tomorrow, as I just got my chest freezer last night. I'll have to look into this new one you mention a little more. The price certainly seems fair.

Thanks for the information.

 

[Dr. Francois]

Just curious:

For those using the ITC-308 as a chest freezer fermentation controller, what settings are you using for HD and CD settings? I don't want to short cycle my freezer.

 

[GeorgeH2013]

I have the ITC-310T, which works the same way, I believe. I have mine set to 1 on both HD and CD. I have the compressor delay set to 3 minutes. The default on the delay setting out of the box on mine was set to 0, so that needed to be changed, as I also didn't want to short cycle my freezer.

Hope that helps. The unit works great though. I think you'll like it!

 

[Jwin]

I set my delay to 10
I would set it to an hour if I could

 

[VolDoc]

@inkbird

So I bought a small 5 cu ft chest freezer. The specs say 115V, 1.69 A. I am looking to use the Inkbird ITC 308, but the specs for that say 110V. I would also like to wire in a small heating pad similar to the type used for growing plants. I'm worried about the voltage output and the 308 not being able to handle the load for both the freezer and the heating pad. Any advice on setup or other products I could use to effectively handle the voltage output of all?

Anyone else have any recommendations?