Ink bird controlling HLT element

[don_bran321]

Has anyone used an ink bird lug and play temp controller to control a heater element? is it possible.

I have a 30a single element box that I put together but I want to heat the strike water in the brew kettle at the same time as heating the sparge water in the HLT.

I was wondering if I could use the ink bird controller from my fermentation chamber just to heat it up. Thoughts?

 

[itsnotrequired]

what is the rating on your heating element? max output of the inkbird is 1000 watts at 110v or 2000 watts at 220v.

 

[don_bran321]

The Element itself is 5500w but I would only be using a 120v/110v source.
I know it wouldn't be heating at its full potential but I was wondering if it could handle the cycling.
I know that my with my Auber pid I have to use ssds to handle the cycling.

 

[shoo]

The Element itself is 5500w but I would only be using a 120v/110v source.
I know it wouldn't be heating at its full potential but I was wondering if it could handle the cycling.
I know that my with my Auber pid I have to use ssds to handle the cycling.

Nope. Running a 5500w @ 240v element gives you more than 1000w at 110/120v. Good chance you'll kill the internal relay.

Edit: You could do this with a 4000w @ 240v element, max. This device is also not a great temperature controller for the purpose, as it's a dumb on/off algorithm rather than a PID algorithm or similar.

 

[Jim311]

The plug and cord it comes with isn't safe to use with that much wattage/amperage.

 

[Totally]

This product of theirs can handle that element. I realize you are just trying to repurpose some gear but this probably the cheapest way to get that element running on a decent controller.

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tempcontrol_ipb16.htm

 

[don_bran321]

I don't think I worded this very well but I guess I'll just plug it straight into the wall and manually watch the temp.

Thanks for the feedback everyone.

 

[augiedoggy]

what is the rating on your heating element? max output of the inkbird is 1000 watts at 110v or 2000 watts at 220v.

Which inkbird controller are you talking about? The newer pid based one with the pt100 (Inkbird IPB-16)? I believe thats rated at 15amps but uses a mager 40A ssr which can easily be upgraded with heavier wiring to support more.
this inkbird can 240v applications as well...
http://www.ink-bird.com/products-PID-controller-ipb16.html

. In any case it can hande a 3500-4000w 240v element if you can find one that fits I use an 1800w 240v rims that draws 7 amps max.this inkbird can 240v applications as well...
http://www.ink-bird.com/products-PID-controller-ipb16.html

 

[augiedoggy]

Nope. Running a 5500w @ 240v element gives you more than 1000w at 110/120v. Good chance you'll kill the internal relay.

Edit: You could do this with a 4000w @ 240v element, max. This device is also not a great temperature controller for the purpose, as it's a dumb on/off algorithm rather than a PID algorithm or similar.

He stated it would only be used with 120v... thats 1375w and well under 15 amps so yes it certianly would work fine as many people are doing just that for rims applications.

 

[itsnotrequired]

Which inkbird controller are you talking about? The newer pid based one with the pt100 (Inkbird IPB-16)? I believe thats rated at 15amps but uses a mager 40A ssr which can easily be upgraded with heavier wiring to support more.
this inkbird can 240v applications as well...
http://www.ink-bird.com/products-PID-controller-ipb16.html

. In any case it can hande a 3500-4000w 240v element if you can find one that fits I use an 1800w 240v rims that draws 7 amps max.this inkbird can 240v applications as well...
http://www.ink-bird.com/products-PID-controller-ipb16.html

i was assuming the itc-308 but yeah, @don_bran321 should clarify which controller they are referring to. the ipb-16 is rated at 12 amp output with 220v. i suppose you could take it apart and rewire stuff to get more output (assuming it has that 40 amp ssr) but at that point, probably easier to just plug the element into the wall and manually watch it.

 

[shoo]

He stated it would only be used with 120v... thats 1375w and well under 15 amps so yes it certianly would work fine as many people are doing just that for rims applications.

I am also assuming ITC 308, since OP stated "plug and play." but all the ITC-300 series controllers have ratings 1200w or lower, and 1375 is outside of that range (might still work, but also might burn your house down). If I had to guess, OP is using one of these as a keezer controller and wants to see if they can use it for their element too.

 

[don_bran321]

Yes. I was referring to the ITC 308 (had to look it up)
I use it for my chest freezer.
I know this is not its intended purpose (element heating) but I was looking for an easy way to heat my strike water while heating my sparge water and was hoping to dual purpose it.

My basic knowledge of electronics couldn't tell if the controller would push the max power it could safely to the Element kind of like the wall outlet would OR if the Element would draw the power from controller which would eventually burn it up. That is kind of all I was wondering

 

[SleepyCreekBrews]

I reality, the thermal inertial of the HLT is so high, that the hysteresis overshoot would be minimal as long as you're circulating.

A few years ago, I was brewing and my RIMS PID failed, I had a spare STC-1000 laying around, so I quickly hooked it up to the RIMS tube (4500W@120vac). I was surprised to see that it was holding +/- 1 degree.
The brew was saved.

 

[augiedoggy]

I am also assuming ITC 308, since OP stated "plug and play." but all the ITC-300 series controllers have ratings 1200w or lower, and 1375 is outside of that range (might still work, but also might burn your house down). If I had to guess, OP is using one of these as a keezer controller and wants to see if they can use it for their element too.

what about the apb-16 isnt plug and play? Tts wired up and ready to go as far is Ive seen?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Inkbird-Di...505912?hash=item3d460175f8:g:YHcAAOSwE9lZszN5

 

[augiedoggy]

i was assuming the itc-308 but yeah, @don_bran321 should clarify which controller they are referring to. the ipb-16 is rated at 12 amp output with 220v. i suppose you could take it apart and rewire stuff to get more output (assuming it has that 40 amp ssr) but at that point, probably easier to just plug the element into the wall and manually watch it.

Curious any idea why is it only rated at 12 amps at 240v? It still uses a 40a mager relay (confirmed in the review thread) and the wiring all still supports 15a? If a person needed more they could literally replace the power cord and wiring to the outlet from the ssr with heavier wire and plugs for like $30 and have a single element pid controller good for a 5500w element with very little knowledge or time needed just replace what already wired up with heavier components. maybe add a better heat sink for the ssr.

Anyway since the op is talking about 120v use and the most common 120v version is already wired up and ready to got for 15a and up to 1650w It would have made the best choice if he wasnt just trying to repurpose the fridge controller he had.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Inkbird-Di...505912?hash=item3d460175f8:g:YHcAAOSwE9lZszN5
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tempcontrol_ipb16.htm

 

[itsnotrequired]

Curious any idea why is it only rated at 12 amps at 240v? It still uses a 40a mager relay (confirmed in the review thread) and the wiring all still supports 15a? If a person needed more they could literally replace the power cord and wiring to the outlet from the ssr with heavier wire and plugs for like $30 and have a single element pid controller good for a 5500w element with very little knowledge or time needed just replace what already wired up with heavier components. maybe add a better heat sink for the ssr.

my guess is that these things are setup to plug into "standard" 15 or 20 amp receptacles so no sense making them any beefier? 40 amp is a fairly standard size ssr so maybe they got a good price on bulk, even if greater than what they need?

 

[shoo]

what about the apb-16 isnt plug and play? Tts wired up and ready to go as far is Ive seen?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Inkbird-Di...505912?hash=item3d460175f8:g:YHcAAOSwE9lZszN5

It's plenty plug and play, but far less likely that someone would pay $100 for something like that for their fermentation chamber (which in that application having a PID has no added benefit) vs a simpler and much cheaper temperature controller.

 

[augiedoggy]

It's plenty plug and play, but far less likely that someone would pay $100 for something like that for their fermentation chamber (which in that application having a PID has no added benefit) vs a simpler and much cheaper temperature controller.

Yes very true. In fairness they were onsale for $67 with shipping during the kickstarter and are still available for $85 from a number of places... I was just wondering why you had made the comment that implied it wasnt plug and play is all... I missed that the OP was trying to repurpose his fermentation chamber controller when I made my first comment and this is why I had commented as I did.

 

[augiedoggy]

my guess is that these things are setup to plug into "standard" 15 or 20 amp receptacles so no sense making them any beefier? 40 amp is a fairly standard size ssr so maybe they got a good price on bulk, even if greater than what they need?

Yes but a 15 amp receptacle is 15 amps not 12 right? I believe the 240v model must come with different or no? outlet and plug to be safe since using 120v plugs and outlets for 240v would be a no no anyway right? just seems a bit odd to me.
I do find it a bit funny they dont use "inkbird" ssrs inside them