Can you post the link to where you bought this? cant read the image.
I think you just built yourself a hopback without the hop portion. This setup is also used to circulate beer around in the mash tun if you worry about such things (which you shouldn't IMHO).
This set up in no way resembles a hop back, and these pumps are not suitable for handling wort. I doubt it will handle even mash temps without damage, and even if it could, it just isn't a good idea. Post boil chilled wort is definitely out of the question.I will however take this idea and add it into my project bank. I do want to recirculate wort eventually on the cheap scale.
Sure isn't that the point though pre-pitch?
Both sides of the HSA issue were already discussed. It is real, whether you believe in it, or not.It's a reference to HSA I believe. (edit) Which I don't believe in.![]()
Closer to a 'shell and tube' than a CFC, but a tradeoff I am also willing to make to not have to worry about the insides of a 50ft tube, or 20+ stacked plates.At the same time I recirc the wort with my pump and place the hose so that the wort is recirculated in the opposite direction as the IC water flows. Voila, counterflow chiller.
You have missed the whole point of this thread. You will get much better performance from chilling with straight tap to ~20F of tap water, then switch to an open ice bath recirc using a pump at as fast a flow as you can afford. Waiting to recirc the ice bath (replenish with tap water instead) until the outflow is colder than tap will save on ice usage.Also, I use a prechiller setup with a 2nd IC in a bucket filled with ice water. When I'm trying to get those last stubborn 25 degrees to come off I dial the flow back so the prechiller can do it's thing creating a greater delta between the wort and the cooling water.
Mr. Malty has had a 'how to' on his whirlpool chiller out for some time. It brings up another topic some consider a myth- product shear. I have plans to make a mechanical agitator to avoid 30 min of running my wort through a 3500rpm blender. Mainly to get a better whirlpool post chill, but if I can eliminate shear at the same time, why not.All in all I chill down to 80f in SoCal summer weather in about 20-25 minutes, then down to about 70f in another 15 minutes. When it's time to transfer, I just move the recirc tube from the kettle to the fermenter.
Edit, fuggetaboutit. I need to get used to people picking apart everything a stranger says on the internet, I think that's why Al Gore invented it.
Well, when you come busting into a thread specifically about using pumps for open bath recirculation, and then brag about your chill times using a second IC as a pre-chiller when presumably using a garden hose as the input, what did you expect?
You could get even better performance by applying some of the techniques in this thread. It would require another pump like those discussed here, though.
Without adding a pump, your way is the preferred method. However, the pre-chiller doesn't increase performance much until the wort temp is within ~30F of tap temps. Up to that point when flow rates are high, it just uses up ice without really making any meaningful change to the water temps. If ice usage matters, leaving the pre-chiller out of the ice bath until needed will save your ice for when it is needed.
Here is a post with pictures and graphs-
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/in...ump-idea-share-267132/index3.html#post3344808
You are right, you shouldn't. I assume the same goes for others?A thread is just a public discussion about a general topic. I shouldn't have to approach it like a native american burial ground IMHO.
You are right, you shouldn't. I assume the same goes for others?
There are some general guidelines, though. Like trying to stay on topic.
If you aren't happy with your chill times and have warm tap water, the open ice bath really helps. The pump needs to be strong/fast enough to get a reasonable flow through your chiller. Some have found the cheaper pumps have insufficient flow at the head pressures required to push through even a 25ft IC.
Straying a bit, but some pumps can be repurposed for use in a keg/carboy washer. The pump is about 90% of the cost of a DIY keg washer. This might help when trying to rationalize buying a bigger pump. Something that can produce around 3 gal/min at 10psi (25' head) is in the ballpark. A keg washer thread will have better info. Careful with pump specs, most list max flow at 0' head, and max head at 0 gal/min.I have every intention of buying a sump pump today though and trying this when I brew on sunday.