Induction hot plate or SS Brewtech 1V E-brewery?

[DaleyBrew]

Hey All-

I just renovated a laundry room to use primarily as an indoor electric brewery (clean clothes and laundry come in a distant second). I installed a new countertop and a dedicated 240v 30amp circuit with the intent of getting SS brewtech's new 1V e-brewrey. However, I just unearthed an old induction plate that I bought years ago when I was trying to brew indoors in old apartment. I ditched it because, at 1500w, it was too underpowered (I didn't really use it much but it still works well 12+ years later!). Now that I have the 240v line I starting thinking that I could save a bunch of money by just getting a 3000w countertop induction plate. Everyone seems to be into the Avantco IC3500 but it sounds like the build quality is not great. Anyone have experience with this? I don't want to spend $175 on something that's going to break in a year. I can't seem to find any other good alternatives.

I'm brewing smaller batches (~3gal) and I already have the SS brew tech Mash tun and Mini brew bucket. The 1V seems like a bit of overkill for what I'm doing but I would imagine that it'll last me many years.

Anyone have any advice?

 

[cyberbackpacker]

I think the induction plate is a very feasible and worthwhile idea to explore. If you do go that route, I highly suggest looking in to the Adcraft 208v Manual control induction plate. Well made, works as it should, and is easy to integrate some automation with down the line if you desire to go that route.

Here is just the first link I found for one: https://restauranttory.com/adcraft-...n9awFxxaUNwA6Z2-PzFZ392tgc6Yg_GRoCndgQAvD_BwE

 

[Carolina_Matt]

Have you considered the 240v Digiboil or Anvil Foundry? They're both under 3000 watts, but they should have enough power for 3 gallon batches and they're significantly cheaper than the SS Brewtech.

 

[carlk47]

I love the simplicity of a kettle and an induction plate. I’ve also considered the SSBrewtech 1V but can’t justify it when my induction setup works just fine. I do use the IC3500 and have had great luck with it for many years. Hopefully I didn’t just jinx myself!

 

[Hwk-I-St8]

I think the induction plate is a very feasible and worthwhile idea to explore. If you do go that route, I highly suggest looking in to the Adcraft 208v Manual control induction plate. Well made, works as it should, and is easy to integrate some automation with down the line if you desire to go that route.

Here is just the first link I found for one: https://restauranttory.com/adcraft-...n9awFxxaUNwA6Z2-PzFZ392tgc6Yg_GRoCndgQAvD_BwE

So I'm facing this same dilemma. Frankly, I consider induction the ideal solution for brewing, but the lack of options for manual control induction units that will work with a PID is frustrating. I've looked at the Adcraft, but the 208V spec scares me away. I've seen a couple people say they're running one at 240V with no problem, but it's always when they first start and you never hear back if it's still working for them a year or two later.

I would really, really prefer to go induction with a PID, Adcraft is the only real option (without hacking into the control circuit of other units), I'd just like to feel more comfortable that I'm not throwing away the money on something that's going to burn out after 5 batches.

Also, I'm not entirely sure how to rewire the plug to be compatible with the controller outlet.

Can anyone show how to wire the plug on the Adcraft 208V unit and also confirm that it's a viable long term option at 240V?

 

[Hwk-I-St8]

I love the simplicity of a kettle and an induction plate. I’ve also considered the SSBrewtech 1V but can’t justify it when my induction setup works just fine. I do use the IC3500 and have had great luck with it for many years. Hopefully I didn’t just jinx myself!
View attachment 656494

With the IC3500, how do you control mash temps?

 

[cyberbackpacker]

So I'm facing this same dilemma. Frankly, I consider induction the ideal solution for brewing, but the lack of options for manual control induction units that will work with a PID is frustrating. I've looked at the Adcraft, but the 208V spec scares me away. I've seen a couple people say they're running one at 240V with no problem, but it's always when they first start and you never hear back if it's still working for them a year or two later.

I would really, really prefer to go induction with a PID, Adcraft is the only real option (without hacking into the control circuit of other units), I'd just like to feel more comfortable that I'm not throwing away the money on something that's going to burn out after 5 batches.

Also, I'm not entirely sure how to rewire the plug to be compatible with the controller outlet.

Can anyone show how to wire the plug on the Adcraft 208V unit and also confirm that it's a viable long term option at 240V?

I've used the adcraft for 3+ years and zero issues. With regards to the plug, if you do not have the appropriate receptacle, go to your local Menard's/Lowes/etc and purchase a plug that will fit your receptacle and just swap plugs. Easy-peasy.

 

[IslandLizard]

I'm not sure if the Adcraft is built from any better components than the IC3500. The Adcraft's 208V spec looks a bit out of place, as it is typically found in a commercial 3 phase Wye service. But if people have been using it on 240V without issues, it appears to confirm it's a regular dual voltage 208/240V appliance.

I have 2 IC3500s, each with several years of periodic use on them. I use them for more than just brewing 5.5 (or occasionally 11) gallon batches, such as making soup stock in a large kettle, general cooking, boiling starter wort, even wokking in a cast iron wok with a flat/ridged outside bottom, elevated on 6 silicone "washers."

The older of the IC3500 has needed periodic (about once a year) lubrication/oiling of the fan bearing, it's been seizing up, and for unexplained reason blew the inside fuse once while heating strike water. The "newer" unit I bought used, probably has had less usage, and has now been in regular service here for a year without any trouble so far.
I have very little to complain, except for the fan issue, which may or may not be an isolated problem. Time will tell.

Although I generally mash in a converted cooler, I occasionally perform step mashes in the kettle, and have done some decoctions too.
I love induction, great for brewing.

 

[Hwk-I-St8]

I'm not sure if the Adcraft is built from any better components than the IC3500. The Adcraft's 208V spec looks a bit out of place, as it is typically found in a commercial 3 phase Wye service. But if people have been using it on 240V without issues, it appears to confirm it's a regular dual voltage 208/240V appliance.

I have 2 IC3500s, each with several years of periodic use on them. I use them for more than just brewing 5.5 (or occasionally 11) gallon batches, such as making soup stock in a large kettle, general cooking, boiling starter wort, even wokking in a cast iron wok with a flat/ridged outside bottom, elevated on 6 silicone "washers."

The older of the IC3500 has needed periodic (about once a year) lubrication/oiling of the fan bearing, it's been seizing up, and for unexplained reason blew the inside fuse once while heating strike water. The "newer" unit I bought used, probably has had less usage, and has now been in regular service here for a year without any trouble so far.
I have very little to complain, except for the fan issue, which may or may not be an isolated problem. Time will tell.

Although I generally mash in a converted cooler, I occasionally perform step mashes in the kettle, and have done some decoctions too.
I love induction, great for brewing.

How do you control the temps for mashing?

 

[kh54s10]

First question do you have a gfci protected 240v outlet? If you don't it can get very expensive to install one depending on distance from the electrical panel.

 

[Cato1507]

Hey All-

I just renovated a laundry room to use primarily as an indoor electric brewery (clean clothes and laundry come in a distant second). I installed a new countertop and a dedicated 240v 30amp circuit with the intent of getting SS brewtech's new 1V e-brewrey. However, I just unearthed an old induction plate that I bought years ago when I was trying to brew indoors in old apartment. I ditched it because, at 1500w, it was too underpowered (I didn't really use it much but it still works well 12+ years later!). Now that I have the 240v line I starting thinking that I could save a bunch of money by just getting a 3000w countertop induction plate. Everyone seems to be into the Avantco IC3500 but it sounds like the build quality is not great. Anyone have experience with this? I don't want to spend $175 on something that's going to break in a year. I can't seem to find any other good alternatives.

I'm brewing smaller batches (~3gal) and I already have the SS brew tech Mash tun and Mini brew bucket. The 1V seems like a bit of overkill for what I'm doing but I would imagine that it'll last me many years.

Anyone have any advice?

I have a the IC3500 and it's worked great for my BIAB brewing. However it uses a 20 amp 240v circuit. I've used it with my 5.5 gal SsBrewtech kettle and a 7.5 gal Anvil kettle.
Works great. I bought it on Amazon and bought a extended 3 yr warranty at the time. I've used it for a year with no problems, but I too shared your concern over how long it would last. Your 30 amp 240v is too much for it.

I had an existing 20amp 240v table saw circuit in the garage which is why I got the Avantco unit. I might have gone with the 1v e system from SsBrewtech but it required 30amp 240v and I didn't want to give up the table saw circuit.

When Blichmann came out with the Brew Commander 240v that could run on 20 up to 35 amp 240v then i got that and their 10gal 240v kettle with the Boil Coil.
Couldn't be happier with that system. Still have the IC3500 and will keep it as a backup.

 

[Cato1507]

First question do you have a gfci protected 240v outlet? If you don't it can get very expensive to install one depending on distance from the electrical panel.

Too right my solution was an inline gfci that I bought from North Shore for $87. Works great and a lot cheaper than the electrician.

 

[Cato1507]

How do you control the temps for mashing?

I bring my strike water to temp at full 3500w and then I add my BIAB bag and grain. After dough in I'd cover the kettle and had a temp probe in the mash water connected by wire to the external read out. When temp would drop 3-4 degrees I'd turn the IC3500 on at 500 watts for a few minutes and stir periodically until the temp came back to where I wanted it. I'd have to do that 2-3 times over a 60-75 min mash.

 

[DaleyBrew]

I love the simplicity of a kettle and an induction plate. I’ve also considered the SSBrewtech 1V but can’t justify it when my induction setup works just fine. I do use the IC3500 and have had great luck with it for many years. Hopefully I didn’t just jinx myself!
View attachment 656494

Looks like you're using the SS 5.5 gallon kettle? your set up is exactly what I was thinking of doing so I'm glad to see it's working well

 

[Hwk-I-St8]

I bring my strike water to temp at full 3500w and then I add my BIAB bag and grain. After dough in I'd cover the kettle and had a temp probe in the mash water connected by wire to the external read out. When temp would drop 3-4 degrees I'd turn the IC3500 on at 500 watts for a few minutes and stir periodically until the temp came back to where I wanted it. I'd have to do that 2-3 times over a 60-75 min mash.

Ah...so instead of a PID, you're using a human controller! Got it. I'm looking to do something a bit more automated.

 

[Hwk-I-St8]

I have a the IC3500 and it's worked great for my BIAB brewing. However it uses a 20 amp 240v circuit. I've used it with my 5.5 gal SsBrewtech kettle and a 7.5 gal Anvil kettle.
Works great. I bought it on Amazon and bought a extended 3 yr warranty at the time. I've used it for a year with no problems, but I too shared your concern over how long it would last. Your 30 amp 240v is too much for it.

I had an existing 20amp 240v table saw circuit in the garage which is why I got the Avantco unit. I might have gone with the 1v e system from SsBrewtech but it required 30amp 240v and I didn't want to give up the table saw circuit.

When Blichmann came out with the Brew Commander 240v that could run on 20 up to 35 amp 240v then i got that and their 10gal 240v kettle with the Boil Coil.
Couldn't be happier with that system. Still have the IC3500 and will keep it as a backup.

You can run a lower amperage unit on a higher amperage circuit. A 30 amp circuit doesn't "push" out 30 amps, it just is capable of providing that if demanded. An induction plate rated at 20 amps will still only pull the 20 amps it's rated for.

I'm having a 240v GFCI outlet put into my garage next week. It'll be rated for 50 amps, but I plan to run a 30 amp controller on it.

 

[DaleyBrew]

When Blichmann came out with the Brew Commander 240v that could run on 20 up to 35 amp 240v then i got that and their 10gal 240v kettle with the Boil Coil.

I actually just discovered the Blickman BoilCoil. I'm now thinking I might just add the 240V coil to an existing BK and also get the manual knob controller. What's your experience with the coil? Do you think it will work well on smaller volumes?

 

[Cato1507]

I actually just discovered the Blickman BoilCoil. I'm now thinking I might just add the 240V coil to an existing BK and also get the manual knob controller. What's your experience with the coil? Do you think it will work well on smaller volumes?

The smallest volume I do on mine is 3.5 gallons. I guess I could push that slightly but it takes 3 gallons to cover the coils and they're always supposed to be submerged. 4 gal to cover my thermocouple, but on a full volume mash even on a small batch that's going to be covered anyway.

 

[Cato1507]

You can run a lower amperage unit on a higher amperage circuit. A 30 amp circuit doesn't "push" out 30 amps, it just is capable of providing that if demanded. An induction plate rated at 20 amps will still only pull the 20 amps it's rated for.

I'm having a 240v GFCI outlet put into my garage next week. It'll be rated for 50 amps, but I plan to run a 30 amp controller on it.

I understand that, but that sounds very unsafe to do and would seem to negate the safety factor of a circuit tripping if your equipment malfunctions and overheats.
I may be wrong cause it's been awhile since I was in production management but if I remember an equipment malfunction by overheating draws more amps and thus trips the circuit to avoid melt down or fire.
I think you'd want to discuss that with your electrician before proceeding to make sure that your safety factor is okay.

@IslandLizard , what do you think? I don't want to extend wrong advice here, but electrical safety in brewing is essential for all of us.

 

[Hwk-I-St8]

I understand that, but that sounds very unsafe to do and would seem to negate the safety factor of a circuit tripping if your equipment malfunctions and overheats.
I may be wrong cause it's been awhile since I was in production management but if I remember an equipment malfunction by overheating draws more amps and thus trips the circuit to avoid melt down or fire.
I think you'd want to discuss that with your electrician before proceeding to make sure that your safety factor is okay.

@IslandLizard , what do you think? I don't want to extend wrong advice here, but electrical safety in brewing is essential for all of us.

The circuit breaker is there to protect your house wiring, not the things plugged in. Any controller unit should have it's own fuses etc to protect them.

Look at it this way, most home 120v breakers that service your outlets are 15 amps. Is it unsafe to plug in a stereo that is rated at 1 amp?

Oh...and I did tell the electrician exactly what the new receptacle was for, including that the controller was rated at 30 amps but that I wanted a 50 amp circuit in case I upgrade in the future.

 

[kh54s10]

I agree with Hwk-I-St8. Almost nothing plugged into any circuit in your house draws as much amperage as the breaker for the line. It is when you plug a toaster oven, a blender, a space heater and a microwave into the same circuit and run them all at the same time. The individual units are fine. It blows the breaker so that the wire doesn't overheat and burn your house down.

 

[IslandLizard]

@IslandLizard , what do you think? I don't want to extend wrong advice here, but electrical safety in brewing is essential for all of us.

As @Hwk-I-St8 said, the circuit breakers in the panel protect the installed wiring (upstream) from overheating, thus preventing fires.
Having good, solid terminations and splices are part of that protection plan.

 

[IslandLizard]

How do you control the temps for mashing?

I mash in a converted cooler normally, single infusion. But the occasional step mashes in the kettle are done manually, low enough heat (1200-2000W) with constant stirring/scraping bottom, turning the mash over, heating it evenly throughout. The tri-ply bottom helps a lot with the evenness of applied heat.

 

[tln58c]

Hey All-

I just renovated a laundry room to use primarily as an indoor electric brewery (clean clothes and laundry come in a distant second). I installed a new countertop and a dedicated 240v 30amp circuit with the intent of getting SS brewtech's new 1V e-brewrey. However, I just unearthed an old induction plate that I bought years ago when I was trying to brew indoors in old apartment. I ditched it because, at 1500w, it was too underpowered (I didn't really use it much but it still works well 12+ years later!). Now that I have the 240v line I starting thinking that I could save a bunch of money by just getting a 3000w countertop induction plate. Everyone seems to be into the Avantco IC3500 but it sounds like the build quality is not great. Anyone have experience with this? I don't want to spend $175 on something that's going to break in a year. I can't seem to find any other good alternatives.

I'm brewing smaller batches (~3gal) and I already have the SS brew tech Mash tun and Mini brew bucket. The 1V seems like a bit of overkill for what I'm doing but I would imagine that it'll last me many years.

Anyone have any advice?

FWIW:
I’m in the same situation. Looking to brew 2.5-3 gallon batches. I only have 120v in the room I brew. I just came across a video by Short Circuited Brewers on You Tube for a Mini BIAB system using a 1500 watt element and an Inkbird controller. The controller will handle up to a 1650 watt element. I also plan on using the Ss 5.5 gallon kettle and plan to try his system out. Only concern I have is drilling holes in a SS kettle for the element and temp sensor. I also looked at going the induction heater route, but read several complaints where the induction units failed after a year with no good way to repair. The cost of a failed element is significantly less than having to replace an induction heater. I’m not saying one is better than the other, it’s just another option. A good deal of the parts are sourced by Brew Hardware.

 

[rnorman57]

With the IC3500, how do you control mash temps?

I use IC3500 to heat strike water and for boiling, and use RIMS for maintaining mash temps.