I'm Thinking... 09/09/09 Barleywine

[Brewpastor]

Yeah, I was wrong...listening to Jamil show now,haha.

I was wrong before. I got over it.



That is a good show.

 

[BierMuncher]

Can someone help me with my Beersmith recipe?

I posted it back on page 16.

Page #'s are different for everyone depending on their preference settings.

What's the post #.

 

[blacklab]

Alderwood = Alaskan Smoked Porter

Beechwood = German Rauch malt

plywood, 2x4s and creosote soaked railroad ties = Smokin' Nines

ha! perfect. For some reason I am JACKED UP to brew this big ass beer.

 

[Couevas]

Page #'s are different for everyone depending on their preference settings.

What's the post #.

It is Post #157

 

[the_bird]

It may have been mentioned, but this would be a GREAT beer to brew with a buddy. Two mash tuns - split the grain evenly between the two. Collect ~3.5 gallons of wort from each (first runnings, basically), then do a second sparge and use the thinner runnings to do a small beer (which I would guess would still be pretty decent-sized). One person boils the BW, the other the small beer, each gets 2.5 gallons of each after fermentation.

The first grain bill (non-smoked) looks classic enough where you could make a really nice beer with the second runnings.

 

[DeathBrewer]

hey! you stole my plan!

a friend and i were thinking about doing two mashes together and using the first running for a barleywine, the second runnings for a small beer.

maybe we'll do it for the 9/9/9...i'll run it by him. if so, i'll definitely include a small beer in addition to the BW bottles

but why would you need to have only 2.5 gallons of each? if we have two mash tuns, the first runnings from both would be over 5 gallons...i think we could still make a full batch of each.

 

[the_bird]

I was thinking in the context of people with limited capacity. When I fill my tun to the rim (after the mash, before collecting any wort), I collect just about 3.5 gallons on my first sparge. Even cutting the grain bill in half, there's still a lot of grain to absorb water. If I do this by my lonesome, I'll probably have to do a third batch sparge (or fly sparge).

 

[BierMuncher]

It is Post #157

Looks like your gravity is fine.

I do find that inputting recipes from other sources tend to differ on points and IBU's. I've never had a Jamil recipe come out on target.

Looks like you simply need to increase your hops here and there to get to the #'s.

I'm sure it will be a common theme.

 

[the_bird]

If the IBUs are off, it may well be that the different programs have different default calculation methodologies (Rager vs. Tinseth, etc)

 

[Couevas]

Can someone else load the recipe into Beersmith and see what they get, please?

I don't see how the IBU's could differ by 30 points.

Thanks

 

[CBBaron]

Can someone else load the recipe into Beersmith and see what they get, please?

I don't see how the IBU's could differ by 30 points.

Thanks

I will do that soon but I have seen very large differences between the formulas especially when you deal with big beers and high IBUs. So 30 points is not suprising.

Craig

 

[CBBaron]

Here's what I got in Beersmith:


BeerSmith Recipe Printout - www.beersmith.com
Recipe: 09-09-09 BW
Style: American Barleywine
TYPE: All Grain

Recipe Specifications
--------------------------
Batch Size: 5.75 gal
Boil Size: 6.82 gal
Estimated OG: 1.119 SG
Estimated Color: 20.8 SRM
Estimated IBU: 86.0 IBU
Brewhouse Efficiency: 65.00 %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Ingredients:
------------
Amount Item Type % or IBU
23 lbs Pale Malt (2 Row) UK (3.0 SRM) Grain 82.50 %
2 lbs Munich Malt (9.0 SRM) Grain 7.17 %
12.0 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 80L (80.0 SRM) Grain 2.69 %
6.1 oz Chocolate Malt Pale (200.0 SRM) Grain 1.36 %
4.0 oz Special B Malt (180.0 SRM) Grain 0.90 %
1.66 oz Magnum [14.50 %] (60 min) Hops 73.6 IBU
1.00 oz Centennial [10.00 %] (25 min) Hops 12.3 IBU
1.00 oz Cascade [6.00 %] (0 min) Hops -
1.00 oz Centennial [10.00 %] (0 min) Hops -
1 lbs 8.0 oz Cane (Beet) Sugar (0.0 SRM) Sugar 5.38 %
2 Pkgs SafAle US Ale (DCL Yeast #US-05) Yeast-Ale

Mash Schedule: Single Infusion, Light Body, Batch Sparge
Total Grain Weight: 26.38 lb




Notice that Brewpastor used a batch size of 5.75gal not 5.0 gal which is where your efficiency numbers are wrong.

Second try setting your bitterness formula to Rager in the options under the tools menu. This gets me closer to Brewpastor but still not quite there. If I use Tinseth or Garetz I get around 50 IBUs for the same recipe.

Craig

View attachment 09-09-09ABW.bsm

 

[Couevas]

Thank you Craig

edit: Wait a second....I just put two and two together and figured out that you are from Cleveland, yet you are a steeler fan. WTF? That is sacreligious!!!
Browns are going all the way this year.

 

[justbrewit]

alright, shame on me but i haven't read all of the posts related to this but i do love barley wine, i'm in like flint on this one. i'll go back and read every thing later.

i was thinking about the smoked malt and was thinking that maybe we could put in some smoked oak. good idea, bad idea?

 

[CBBaron]

Thank you Craig

edit: Wait a second....I just put two and two together and figured out that you are from Cleveland, yet you are a steeler fan. WTF? That is sacreligious!!!
Browns are going all the way this year.

Yea I get a hard time about being a steelers fan around here all the time. However I have been a fan all my life and lived in NE Ohio most of that time.

The AFC North should be interesting this year and the Browns should make a run at the conference championship but they won't be going all the way. Cleveland teams seem to have a problem with winning it all, they always fall a little short. Still I root for the other Cleveland teams, just not the Browns.

As for the topic, I hope I helped you figure out the changes. I will be modifying it considerably to include a large amount of DME. My 5gal cooler is not going to handle the full grain bill.

Craig

 

[landhoney]

My 5gal cooler is not going to handle the full grain bill.

You, and anyone else with a 'too small' cooler, could use the re-iterated mash method. Mash half the grain, re-heat the wort to strike temp, then use it as the strike water for the second half of the grain....or something like that. Just FYI on another method that I don't think anyone has mentioned.

 

[Dr_Deathweed]

so landhoney, you going to sour this one?

 

[BierMuncher]

By my best count we're at 33 confirmed participants.

• If you're name does not appear below and you think it should, it is likely that you are not yet a paid member. Get paid up and PM me.
• If your name does appear below and you do not want to participate, PM me and I'll trim the list.

This is by no means a final list. A truly final list for the swap will not be assembled until well after the brew date...most likely sometime in early 2009. This will allow the list to "clean up" a bit as we have late comers and some brewers who have to withdraw for various reasons.

If the list below is any indication, I'd say we're off to a good start. Will keggles be on the boil on Labor Day Monday?

Note that this "Occasion" swap is not a replacement for the quarterly open swaps or any other swaps that may be in the works.

I'll update the list periodically.
***********
9/9
98EXL
Air Pirate
BakerStreetBeers
BierMuncher
blacklab
Brewpastor
Brewsmith
BuffaloSabresBrewer
CBBaron
chadley
Cheeto1977
Couevas
DeathBrewer
deathweed
EdWort
EvilTOJ
Ize
jds
justbrewit
Kilted Brewer
landhoney
Liquidicem
MikeFlynn74
Mutilated1
olllllo
Ooompa Loompa
Professor Frink
RICLARK
TexLaw
the_bird
uglygoat
wildwest450

 

[CBBaron]

You, and anyone else with a 'too small' cooler, could use the re-iterated mash method. Mash half the grain, re-heat the wort to strike temp, then use it as the strike water for the second half of the grain....or something like that. Just FYI on another method that I don't think anyone has mentioned.

I know I have several choices for this beer.
I could:
1) buy a larger cooler and transfer my bulkhead.
2) Perform 2 mashes and combine
3) Reiterative mash
4) Or my usually of supplementing with DME.

#4 is the quickest and easiest and I have had good luck with it in the past. I may end up doing a combination of 1# and 4# as I would like to upgrade the MLT size but that big of OG is going to result in a very long boil or very poor efficiency. I may split the difference and do a moderate sparge resulting in a normal boil and supplement with DME to the desired gravity.

Ofcourse with #2 I could borrow a second turkey fryer (my parents and in-laws both have a burner and pot) and make 2 beers by separating the first and second runnings.

Lots of possibilities.

Craig

 

[TexLaw]

When I plug numbers into ProMash with a water:grain ratio of 1.25, I get a total mash volume of 1.36 gallons, so that won't work for my 10 gallon tun, either. However, bring the ratio down to 1.06, adding 6.98 gallons of water, and the total volume goes to 9.09 gallons. Especially for this recipe, that seems like a great number.

I'll just have to be extra certain about conversion. With all that pale malt in there, I am not at all concerned, though. That goes double if I go with Marris Otter. That stuff converts faster than drinking Baptist in a Catholic cathouse.

CB, by the time you pay for all that DME, you would probably have paid for a 48 quart Igloo Ice Cube.


TL

 

[TexLaw]

Will keggles be on the boil on Labor Day Monday?

I bet mine fires up in late July. I'm scheduled to brew for the club that month, and I was planning on doing an AIPA for the November IPA meeting. That should make a perfect yeast cake for this 999 bad boy.


TL

 

[FSR402]

Sweet I'm in...... (PM sent)...

This kind of brew is what my 20 gal MLT is built for. Heck that grain bill is no different then my normal brew. The only difference is that I will be boiling it down to 6 gal instead of the 12.. :rockin:
Looks like I'll have lots o time to drink on this one.

For thos that don't want to boil for so long but don't want to do the DME thing, find another kettle and burner and get two of them going.

 

[Couevas]

Does anyone have a link or the necessary stats to plug Pale Chocolate malt into Beersmith? I am not finding it.

Thanks

 

[CBBaron]

Does anyone have a link or the necessary stats to plug Pale Chocolate malt into Beersmith? I am not finding it.

Thanks

I used American chocolate (330L) as a starting point and just changed the lovibond to 200. Probably not exact but close enough.

Craig

 

[DeathBrewer]

Does anyone have a link or the necessary stats to plug Pale Chocolate malt into Beersmith? I am not finding it.

Thanks

200L would be good.

http://morebeer.com/view_product/5612/

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Pale_chocolate_malt

 

[FSR402]

what do you guys think about oaking this badboy?

I'm temped to pickup something like THIS and to half in glass and half in the oak.

Or just drop some oak chips (that I already have)..

 

[Couevas]

This monster is really going to show off the PROS of using a keggle as your MLT. I will have no problem fitting all the goodness in.:rockin:

 

[Brewpastor]

what do you guys think about oaking this badboy?

I'm temped to pickup something like THIS and to half in glass and half in the oak.

Or just drop some oak chips (that I already have)..

Oaked Barleywine is amazing. I would not bother with the barrel, but go with medium to medium dark roast oak cubes. That sounds like a nice addition to this. Barrels are a lot of work to maintain and clean. If you are doing beer with bugs I say get a barrel, otherwise, use the cubes. IMHO

 

[landhoney]

what do you guys think about oaking this badboy?

I'm temped to pickup something like THIS and to half in glass and half in the oak.

Or just drop some oak chips (that I already have)..

First of all, thats only a little over two gallons. Second, IMHO DO NOT BUY barrels with spigots on them, especially smaller ones, and REALLY ESPECIALLY that look shiny on the outside like that. That shinyness is varnish and can very negatively affect the flavor - when the beer soaks far enough into the wood it hits the varnish on the outside.

I won't re-hash an old thread where I got screwed with one of these - but if you are considering buying a barrel for beer or wine make sure it is not sealed on the inside with wax or anything else and that the outside is not coated with ANYTHING. Barrels like the one above, IMHO, are mainly for display and for serving hard liquor out of.

Negativity not directed at FSR402, I just hate to see a fellow homebrewer buy something expensive and get screwed in the end. Real barrels are great, make sure you're getting a real barrel.

 

[Evan!]

I can't be bothered to scan the 20-some pages of posts right now. Who do I need to PM to get in on this?