I'm going to skip starting with extract and start with all-grain
- Thread starter jetmac
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Bob
Well-Known Member
Don't listen to anyone who tells you to wait or do extract batches first. Yes, the all-grain brewing process is more complicated than extract. But only slightly. And if you know what those complications are, you can overcome them with minimal effort.
It's perfect you have experienced friends/mentors who can take you through a short "apprenticeship" before you start to fly solo. I always recommend this approach.
There is no real difference in calculating carbonation between bottle-conditioning and force-carbonation. You're still trying to achieve a certain level of CO2 in the beer; you're just using two different techniques to get it. Force-carbonation is definitely more rapid; you'll be able to drink the beer more quickly. But as many veteran brewers will attest, that's not always a good thing! There's such a thing as 'green beer', beer that's done fermenting and fully carbonated but not yet at its peak of flavor. There's also the fact that certain styles which are traditionally bottle-conditioned, and in fact are significantly improved by laying down in the bottle.
So I encourage you to learn both techniques. Start like you want, with kegged, force-carbonated beer. Brew beers which don't require a lot of aging to lose the 'green' character, like Mild, Bitter, Brown Ale, Dry Irish Stout, that sort of thing. Save the Pliny clones for when you've got patience to age them.
Yes. Take a gravity five minutes before the end of the boil and check against the projected OG your software tells you to expect. If it's waaaaaay off, you can add some dry extract to bring the gravity into line. For this a refractometer is indispensable. I don't know what I'd do without mine. Every all-grain brewer should use one.
Buy DME in one-lb bags. Easier to add in increments. When I started AG brewing, someone gave me the advice of buying some DME "just in case", and I did. I just made the mistake of buying 3-lb bags because it was less expensive overall. I ended up throwing away expensive DME because I didn't use the whole bag.
If you do need to add some DME to overcome a low OG, ad the whole thing. Don't listen to your calculations when it tells you to add 12 ounces. Add the whole 16. Yes, you'll be slightly over your OG, but that's better than waaaay under, and you won't end up throwing away extract.
Or you could save it for starters. Completely forgot about that!
(By the way, it's "Erlenmeyer flask". )
Cheers,
Bob
P.S. Welcome and GOOD LUCK!
It's perfect you have experienced friends/mentors who can take you through a short "apprenticeship" before you start to fly solo. I always recommend this approach.
There is no real difference in calculating carbonation between bottle-conditioning and force-carbonation. You're still trying to achieve a certain level of CO2 in the beer; you're just using two different techniques to get it. Force-carbonation is definitely more rapid; you'll be able to drink the beer more quickly. But as many veteran brewers will attest, that's not always a good thing! There's such a thing as 'green beer', beer that's done fermenting and fully carbonated but not yet at its peak of flavor. There's also the fact that certain styles which are traditionally bottle-conditioned, and in fact are significantly improved by laying down in the bottle.
So I encourage you to learn both techniques. Start like you want, with kegged, force-carbonated beer. Brew beers which don't require a lot of aging to lose the 'green' character, like Mild, Bitter, Brown Ale, Dry Irish Stout, that sort of thing. Save the Pliny clones for when you've got patience to age them.
Yes. Take a gravity five minutes before the end of the boil and check against the projected OG your software tells you to expect. If it's waaaaaay off, you can add some dry extract to bring the gravity into line. For this a refractometer is indispensable. I don't know what I'd do without mine. Every all-grain brewer should use one.
Buy DME in one-lb bags. Easier to add in increments. When I started AG brewing, someone gave me the advice of buying some DME "just in case", and I did. I just made the mistake of buying 3-lb bags because it was less expensive overall. I ended up throwing away expensive DME because I didn't use the whole bag.
If you do need to add some DME to overcome a low OG, ad the whole thing. Don't listen to your calculations when it tells you to add 12 ounces. Add the whole 16. Yes, you'll be slightly over your OG, but that's better than waaaay under, and you won't end up throwing away extract.
Or you could save it for starters. Completely forgot about that!
(By the way, it's "Erlenmeyer flask".
)Cheers,
Bob
P.S. Welcome and GOOD LUCK!
Yes, 1/4 lb DME to 1 liter water should be about right for a starter.
I completely agree with Bob (except for the 1 lb bags DME, but the starters should take care of that). Don't try adjusting the gravity by adding DME unless it is "waaaay" low, and don't worry about adding a little extra (or less) to finish up a bag of DME. Roughly right is fine.Don't listen to anyone who tells you to wait or do extract batches first. Yes, the all-grain brewing process is more complicated than extract. But only slightly. And if you know what those complications are, you can overcome them with minimal effort.
It's perfect you have experienced friends/mentors who can take you through a short "apprenticeship" before you start to fly solo. I always recommend this approach.
There is no real difference in calculating carbonation between bottle-conditioning and force-carbonation. You're still trying to achieve a certain level of CO2 in the beer; you're just using two different techniques to get it. Force-carbonation is definitely more rapid; you'll be able to drink the beer more quickly. But as many veteran brewers will attest, that's not always a good thing! There's such a thing as 'green beer', beer that's done fermenting and fully carbonated but not yet at its peak of flavor. There's also the fact that certain styles which are traditionally bottle-conditioned, and in fact are significantly improved by laying down in the bottle.
So I encourage you to learn both techniques. Start like you want, with kegged, force-carbonated beer. Brew beers which don't require a lot of aging to lose the 'green' character, like Mild, Bitter, Brown Ale, Dry Irish Stout, that sort of thing. Save the Pliny clones for when you've got patience to age them.
Yes. Take a gravity five minutes before the end of the boil and check against the projected OG your software tells you to expect. If it's waaaaaay off, you can add some dry extract to bring the gravity into line. For this a refractometer is indispensable. I don't know what I'd do without mine. Every all-grain brewer should use one.
Buy DME in one-lb bags. Easier to add in increments. When I started AG brewing, someone gave me the advice of buying some DME "just in case", and I did. I just made the mistake of buying 3-lb bags because it was less expensive overall. I ended up throwing away expensive DME because I didn't use the whole bag.
If you do need to add some DME to overcome a low OG, ad the whole thing. Don't listen to your calculations when it tells you to add 12 ounces. Add the whole 16. Yes, you'll be slightly over your OG, but that's better than waaaay under, and you won't end up throwing away extract.
Or you could save it for starters. Completely forgot about that!
(By the way, it's "Erlenmeyer flask".
Cheers,
Bob
P.S. Welcome and GOOD LUCK!
I also highly recommend a refractometer for AG brewing. Pre-fermentation it is quick, easy, wastes hardly any wort, and is accurate enough; and it will probably pay for itself if you are like me and regularly break hydrometers.
-a.
I jumped from Festa Brew (wich is not even extract) to AG, not because of snobbery or thinking AG was better, but because AG is way, way cheaper. I was pricing extract brews and for 5 gallons, most were in the 35-40$ range. I'm brewing a wit next week wich will cost a whopping 12 $ and probably also a cream ale in november for 10$. Yes, I'll wash my yeast and yes I have invested in a turkey fryer wich i wouldn't have if I was sticking to extract partial boils, but I brew in a bag so I haven't even sprung for a MLT yet (altough I plan to in the future).
The only things I feel are the biggest hurdles are:
a) Cooling wort quickly: don't let anyone tell you an ice bath is quick or easy. I had to wash the bathtub three times to get rid of the soot produced by the burner and it took 2 hours to get to pitchable temps. I suggest planning in advance and getting a lot of ice and adding ice cubes of SANITIZED CLEAN WATER (ie. not ice cubes from the grocery store) to your wort to cool it down. you can easily do this instead of using top-off water. You just have to make sure to end up with the right amount of concentrated wort after boiling. Or buy a wort chiller.
b) Use other people's recipe and keep it simple gravity wise. I was really happy that I chose a mild for my first recipe since I didn't have to be concerned about being able to fit everything in the boil kettle or timing hop additions.
c) Use 65% efficiency for your recipe. Efficiency is not about dick waving but about being sensible. I hit about 65% on my firt AG. Had I taken a 75% efficiency recipe and done it as is, I would've ended up with watery wort.
If you have a good thermometer, calibrate it and do some tests beforehand, like how much time it takes for you to heat your sparge water, stuff like that so you don't end up winging it on brew day. You'll still end up doing it, but not as much...
The only things I feel are the biggest hurdles are:
a) Cooling wort quickly: don't let anyone tell you an ice bath is quick or easy. I had to wash the bathtub three times to get rid of the soot produced by the burner and it took 2 hours to get to pitchable temps. I suggest planning in advance and getting a lot of ice and adding ice cubes of SANITIZED CLEAN WATER (ie. not ice cubes from the grocery store) to your wort to cool it down. you can easily do this instead of using top-off water. You just have to make sure to end up with the right amount of concentrated wort after boiling. Or buy a wort chiller.
b) Use other people's recipe and keep it simple gravity wise. I was really happy that I chose a mild for my first recipe since I didn't have to be concerned about being able to fit everything in the boil kettle or timing hop additions.
c) Use 65% efficiency for your recipe. Efficiency is not about dick waving but about being sensible. I hit about 65% on my firt AG. Had I taken a 75% efficiency recipe and done it as is, I would've ended up with watery wort.
If you have a good thermometer, calibrate it and do some tests beforehand, like how much time it takes for you to heat your sparge water, stuff like that so you don't end up winging it on brew day. You'll still end up doing it, but not as much...
I started out AG, and wrote my own recipe using BS.
Study the process of the mash and steps after fermentation. Get a good thermometer, a good 10G coolerMLT with a SS braid, weigh out everything every time and double check your water volumes both in recipe and when you dough in and sparge. Pre-weigh and organize your hop additions, and tag them, so you don't grab the wrong one. Stay on the cool end of fermentation range and have a way to crash cool your primary for 2-3 days prior to bottling and kegging.
Being organized means the difference between not doing the stupid things and making stupid errors before you get the hang of it and get it down to habit. If that means writing a check list to go down in order as you go thru the day then don't be afraid to write a script to keep you focused on the next step required.
Make a satisfying style that isn't too complicated to make it simpler for your first brew, like an APA or similar, and use an old fashioned manual ringing dial timer for your mash hour and boil additions-they are cheap and reliable, and keep you on course if distracted by something.
Study the process of the mash and steps after fermentation. Get a good thermometer, a good 10G coolerMLT with a SS braid, weigh out everything every time and double check your water volumes both in recipe and when you dough in and sparge. Pre-weigh and organize your hop additions, and tag them, so you don't grab the wrong one. Stay on the cool end of fermentation range and have a way to crash cool your primary for 2-3 days prior to bottling and kegging.
Being organized means the difference between not doing the stupid things and making stupid errors before you get the hang of it and get it down to habit. If that means writing a check list to go down in order as you go thru the day then don't be afraid to write a script to keep you focused on the next step required.
Make a satisfying style that isn't too complicated to make it simpler for your first brew, like an APA or similar, and use an old fashioned manual ringing dial timer for your mash hour and boil additions-they are cheap and reliable, and keep you on course if distracted by something.
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Mermaid
Well-Known Member
I went from "extract w/ steeped grains" to partial mash, and my next batch is going to be a 3 ga. all-grain.
I don't have any way to deal with a turkey fryer and larger boils, so if I'm doing AG it's going to be on the kitchen stove in my 5 gallon kettle.
I think AG is probably cheaper (and easier) than extract - I'm not a fan of stirring clumpy sticky DME (or LME) over a steamy stove, but with 5.5 gallon PM batches that was the only way to go.
I think that AG is definitely not for everyone - if you don't have the outdoor space available to set up the turkey fryer, you're stuck with split batches on the stove, or smaller batches. BIAB works for smaller grain bills, but once you get over 10-15 lbs. of grain BIAB becomes more of an adventure for folks without good upper body strength
False bottoms mash tuns, DIY cooler mash tun rigs, etc. all seem doable if you're a DIY type and/or have the cash to purchase the gear, but what I like about this hobby is that there's always more than 1 path to get to your destination. (beer!)
I don't have any way to deal with a turkey fryer and larger boils, so if I'm doing AG it's going to be on the kitchen stove in my 5 gallon kettle.
I think AG is probably cheaper (and easier) than extract - I'm not a fan of stirring clumpy sticky DME (or LME) over a steamy stove, but with 5.5 gallon PM batches that was the only way to go.
I think that AG is definitely not for everyone - if you don't have the outdoor space available to set up the turkey fryer, you're stuck with split batches on the stove, or smaller batches. BIAB works for smaller grain bills, but once you get over 10-15 lbs. of grain BIAB becomes more of an adventure for folks without good upper body strength
False bottoms mash tuns, DIY cooler mash tun rigs, etc. all seem doable if you're a DIY type and/or have the cash to purchase the gear, but what I like about this hobby is that there's always more than 1 path to get to your destination. (beer!)
mc_eric
Well-Known Member
See if you can have one of your brewer buddies help you out on brew day. That should make things infinitely easier and will cut your chances of screwing something up down to almost zero. I'd also recommend sticking w/ a solid recipe (check out the recipe section here), or at least consult one of your friends to come up with one. That way, if the beer doesn't turn out quite right, you'll be able to trace the problem to somewhere in the process a lot more easily.
I started out doing AG with only a tiny bit of experience from helping a friend of mine do an extract batch. Another friend of mine helped me brew my first three AG batches, and they all turned out pretty good. We made a whole weekend of it, brewed four batches (3 for me, one for him). It was great! Since then, I've had no problem brewing on my own. Sure I've had some sub-par batches, but I've never failed to make beer!
So, best of luck to ya! Remember to pay attention to sanitation and fermentation temps. Ferm temps make the difference between OK beer and great beer.
I started out doing AG with only a tiny bit of experience from helping a friend of mine do an extract batch. Another friend of mine helped me brew my first three AG batches, and they all turned out pretty good. We made a whole weekend of it, brewed four batches (3 for me, one for him). It was great! Since then, I've had no problem brewing on my own. Sure I've had some sub-par batches, but I've never failed to make beer!
So, best of luck to ya!
Remember to pay attention to sanitation and fermentation temps. Ferm temps make the difference between OK beer and great beer.
TheDom
Well-Known Member
I'm on a mobile here, so please forgive my lack of quotes. Someone mentioned having a checklist: one of the great things about Beersmith is that it compiles a brew day checklist for you to print and follow, which makes keeping track of things stupid easy.
I've got a few questions that'll help get you more useful suggestions on what you're planning to do. Do you have outdoor space for brewing with a turkey fryer? Do you have access to a hose and somewhere for waste water to drain to? Are you willing to do basic DIY stuff? I know there are a pile more questions that'd be helpful, but I just blanked out.
I've got a few questions that'll help get you more useful suggestions on what you're planning to do. Do you have outdoor space for brewing with a turkey fryer? Do you have access to a hose and somewhere for waste water to drain to? Are you willing to do basic DIY stuff? I know there are a pile more questions that'd be helpful, but I just blanked out.
TheDom
Well-Known Member
As far as recipe suggestions go, I'd recommend you try EdWort's Haus Pale Ale. It's pretty simple, doesn't need to age much, and is really tasty.
Also, I know you'd said you were planning on doing liquid yeast with a starter, and that's great, but don't count out dry yeast. Good ol' Nottingham or US-05 are great for most recipes where you aren't going for a specific yeast-imparted flavor. heck, there're even dry yeasts for wits and others that have gotten decent reviews.
Also, I know you'd said you were planning on doing liquid yeast with a starter, and that's great, but don't count out dry yeast. Good ol' Nottingham or US-05 are great for most recipes where you aren't going for a specific yeast-imparted flavor. heck, there're even dry yeasts for wits and others that have gotten decent reviews.
nebben
Well-Known Member
Arguably, extract brewing is simple:
Start heating your water in the boil kettle. When it is warm (or hot), put in your extract, being careful to stir it in thoroughly as to avoid scorching the syrup or clumps of dry extract powder. The rest is the same as with AG.
IMHO, all grain brewing introduces new concepts that an extract brewer wont ever deal with. Even if an extract brewer uses steeping grains, they're pretty much doing what an all grain brewer is doing, just on a smaller scale.
If you've got the equipment and some friends to prod, I think it's a great idea just starting out with AG. It's some work, but super fun and rewarding in the end.
nebben
Well-Known Member
Brewing an extract-only batch for the first time is exactly the same as an AG batch- except where the wort comes from prior to the boil countdown timer starting.
AG for the first time is just like steeping grains or mini-mashes for the first time. You might make mistakes and screw up. You also might make mistakes and screw up the first time you do an extract brew, when you ferment it, when you rack it to kegs/bottles...etc.
As long as you're ready to make some mistakes, which wont necessarily happen, I don't see why starting with AG is any worse than starting with extract. No offense to extract brewers, but a dog could do extract by tipping the syrup or powder into the brew pot....not very difficult stuff. AG is all about temperature control, then water proportions, a good grain crush, and a few other things...but for the most part, it is straightforward and not all that challenging.
dummkauf
Well-Known Member
No I have only brewed 2 NB kits(kolsh and a stout) as they were part of the Christmas present that got me started in brewing
But I'm sure any of the kits from NB would be fine. Midwest is right down the street from my office, so all my stuff comes from them simply because I can pick it up on my home from work which means I haven't bought much from NB because of that. Though if you are ordering online, check out midwest, their prices seem to always be cheaper than NB(atleast when I've compared).As far as using snow to cool your wort, that works, just don't put the pot in a snowbank. Snow acts as an insulator(reason Igloos keep you warm) and won't cool the wort. best option I used in winter before getting a CFC was to put some water in a rubbermaid bin, put the pot in, and then periodically shovel some snow into the water.
As far as the increased cooling time, you will have that doing either full boil extract or AG as you would have to boil everything to do AG. However, I started brewing in winter, and a got few good, some great, beers using the tub of water with snow cooling technique too, and that was cooling a full 5 gallons(post boil volume) of wort.
The other advantage you have with extract, is the water you use won't affect the final product quite as much(assuming it's water you would drink to start with). PH and the make up of your water can have a much larger effect on your final product with AG as opposed to extract, which is also one less thing to worry about.
Also, check out Yooper's 60min DFH clone recipe on this site if you're looking for a good IPA. Both the extract(with steeping grains) and AG recipes are available for you to try. I've brewed it both ways, and am probably going to stick with extract since they both turned out great, extract is just a much quicker brew. That recipe has a very simple grain bill too and is all about the hops.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f69/dogfish-head-60-minute-clone-ag-extract-25709/
Bob
Well-Known Member
Refractometers read in Brix or Plato.
To convert, use the following formula:
{Plato/(258.6-([Plato/258.2]*227.1)}+1 = Specific gravity
Below ~14°P, you can simply divide by four to arrive at specific gravity: 12°P = 1.048 SG. This is rough but fairly accurate. Above 1.060, this goes out the window.
...or you could just plug the numbers into a calculator:
http://www.collectionsoft.com/mybrewcollection/sg0.html
Cheers,
Bob
jetmac:
Here's a guy that started with AG for his first brew https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/my-rig-105047/
You can do a good AG brew with nothing more than plastic buckets and a 3 gal pot on the kitchen stove.
http://www.mainebrews.com/news/2009/04/zapap-lauter-system/
Here's a guy that started with AG for his first brew https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/my-rig-105047/
You can do a good AG brew with nothing more than plastic buckets and a 3 gal pot on the kitchen stove.
http://www.mainebrews.com/news/2009/04/zapap-lauter-system/
wonderbread23
Well-Known Member
I switched to all-grain after my third batch and love it. I mainly was looking to have better control over fermentability and malt profile. As far as the basics go, look into yeast health, sanitation, and temp control. These will, by far have the biggest impact on the quality of your brews. Also read as much as you can (and listen to certain very informational pod casts out there).
SwampassJ
Well-Known Member
I don't know how mashing with RO will work out without the ph buffers for the mash. I need to use 5.2 stabilizer because my water ph is high. Also you need certain levels of mineral for yeast health and taste. (Sorry can't explain it well, I'm still a water chemistry retard).
+1 Get a report of your local water to check the levels of "stuff" in it. Generally rule of thumb is if you can drink it (with no slightly bad tastes), you can brew with it. The Campden is a good idea just as a safeguard, my water isn't to bad with chlorine taste/smell but in a bath tub full has the chlorine blue tinge to it. I had a few "maybe its from chlorophenol" tastes in a couple of brews, now a little campden give me a bit more peice of mind
jetmac
Well-Known Member
I got a never used wort chiller for $25
I really don't understand what that means
I have a really good instant read thermometer I use for cooking.
jetmac
Well-Known Member
I bought a 9 gal Coleman xtreme.
I've come across a couple of checklists that I'll modify and use. I agree I need to be organized and take notes, And measurements.
Find out about effeciency now. It is basically the percentage of sugar you got from the grain compared to how much "sugar" is in the grain. All things like grain crush, water temps, water chemstry, etc have an effect on you effeciency.
Taken 65% as your "first go" etstimated efficeincy will give you a better reult if you are a bit higher or lower that 65%. Basically you don't know what you effecency will be until a few batches.
jetmac
Well-Known Member
Yes.
All you guys have been very helpful. With everything that has been posted here I feel like I am so ready and I can really nail this. It's gonna be so much fun.
jetmac
Well-Known Member
2 of my "brew buddies" use dry yeast exclusively. So that is something I will consider for my first batch to at least maybe make things a little less complicated. I just want to be sure I pitch enough. (according to Jamil)
jetmac
Well-Known Member
Yes, I expect to screw up. I even want to screw up so I don't get all full of myself when I brew an award winning brew with my first batch. LOL!!
jetmac
Well-Known Member
Refractometers read in Brix or Plato.
To convert, use the following formula:
{Plato/(258.6-([Plato/258.2]*227.1)}+1 = Specific gravity
Below ~14°P, you can simply divide by four to arrive at specific gravity: 12°P = 1.048 SG. This is rough but fairly accurate. Above 1.060, this goes out the window.
...or you could just plug the numbers into a calculator:
http://www.collectionsoft.com/mybrewcollection/sg0.html
Cheers,
Bob
:rockin:
jetmac
Well-Known Member
I have all the stuff I need to brew tonite if I wanted to (except a grain bill)
But, I think that becomes so labor intensive it would be discouraging. I want equiptment/software that will make things easy to do. I know AG is prolly more labor intensive than extract so this seems like a contradiction but what I mean is I desire to AG brew and want to make it as automatic/simple/and least labor intensive as possibe within my budget.
TheDom
Well-Known Member
Awesome man! Have fun!
No I have only brewed 2 NB kits(kolsh and a stout) as they were part of the Christmas present that got me started in brewing
As far as using snow to cool your wort, that works, just don't put the pot in a snowbank. Snow acts as an insulator(reason Igloos keep you warm) and won't cool the wort. best option I used in winter before getting a CFC was to put some water in a rubbermaid bin, put the pot in, and then periodically shovel some snow into the water.
As far as the increased cooling time, you will have that doing either full boil extract or AG as you would have to boil everything to do AG. However, I started brewing in winter, and a got few good, some great, beers using the tub of water with snow cooling technique too, and that was cooling a full 5 gallons(post boil volume) of wort.
The other advantage you have with extract, is the water you use won't affect the final product quite as much(assuming it's water you would drink to start with). PH and the make up of your water can have a much larger effect on your final product with AG as opposed to extract, which is also one less thing to worry about.
Also, check out Yooper's 60min DFH clone recipe on this site if you're looking for a good IPA. Both the extract(with steeping grains) and AG recipes are available for you to try. I've brewed it both ways, and am probably going to stick with extract since they both turned out great, extract is just a much quicker brew. That recipe has a very simple grain bill too and is all about the hops.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f69/dogfish-head-60-minute-clone-ag-extract-25709/
Great point about cooling w/snow. I have a cut down 55 gal drum bottom that I overflow with cold well water to cool my boil pot. My well water is delicious, I should get off my butt and do some all grain lager this winter.
I got a mini-corny setup from Midwest, they do have great prices on a lot of stuff but the NB extract is a better price. NB had a 10% discount on extracts a week or two ago so I stocked up on 18lbs ea of gold and dark, ($7.99 fedex shipping) they have a new 10% off special each week and my orders arrive by the 3rd day after I order.
I checked out the DFH clone, I may give that a try with gold extract since I have 18lbs on hand. Using that hopping method might also give a great twist to the 3-hearted recipe itself too.
mikejamesnelson
Well-Known Member
Go for it, I did one extract batch first, and you will enjoy all grain much more.
munche
Well-Known Member
I did a few extract batches first, it helped me get a bit more comfortable with the process, but if you want to start with grain it's not that bad. It adds probably 1-2 hours to brewday, is all.
A few things that helped me (I just converted recently):
All Grain Checklist here: http://www.brewersfriend.com/
BrewTarget - http://brewtarget.sourceforge.net/ I can't stand BeerSmith, I think it's really clunky and hard to use. This is simpler and has a mash calculator to help get my temps and volumes for my mash/sparge. Also I keep it installed on a flash drive so I can tweak my recipes at work. It also has the benefit of being free.
Turkey Fryer - If you don't have one, get one. Your brew day will be long enough without waiting an extra hour for your stove to boil the wort.
A few things that helped me (I just converted recently):
All Grain Checklist here: http://www.brewersfriend.com/
BrewTarget - http://brewtarget.sourceforge.net/ I can't stand BeerSmith, I think it's really clunky and hard to use. This is simpler and has a mash calculator to help get my temps and volumes for my mash/sparge. Also I keep it installed on a flash drive so I can tweak my recipes at work. It also has the benefit of being free.
Turkey Fryer - If you don't have one, get one. Your brew day will be long enough without waiting an extra hour for your stove to boil the wort.
