I love no sparge brewing...

[Saccharomyces]

Why is it necessary to adjust the hop schedule? Do you not boil for a full hour?

No I boiled for one hour, the adjustment is because I did no-chill. If I chilled with my IC I would not have had to adjust the hop additions.

 

[ghpeel]

What type of ale pale were you using for the hot wort? Is it the really kind that we all got with our first kits, or is it made of something special to handle the heat? If it is special, where did you buy yours.

And excellent job on simplifying your process! I myself do all my mashes in an unmodified 5-gal cooler with a $1.5 'paint strainer' bag. No screens, no 'vourlaufing' and no stuck sparge, ever. Even with 60 oz of canned pumpkin. Simple for the win!

 

[chefmike]

But if you don't risk a stuck sparge you aren't brewing! Silly ghpeel...

I have done a no chill in my ale pail. HDPE #2 plastic. It never blinked at 200+ degree wort. I threw a star sa soaked rag on top of the hole and let it go. 2 days later I had time to rack the other batch and pitched it on a cake.

 

[The Pol]

Awesome, no chill... good on ya!

 

[chefchris]

That's it .... I'm doing this. So basically you have your pre boil volume plus what the grain's going to absorb in your mash tun?

So my preboil volume is 7 gallons and we'll say 11 lbs of grain. The grain should absorb 1.375 gallons so I just mash with 8.375 gallons (roughly) ? Is that right?

 

[ghpeel]

Would it be possible to do no-chill with a 5 gal glass carboy? I would use a foam stopper, NOT an airlock or anything else that might get clogged up, which would create a potentially dangerous vacuum in the glass.

 

[The Pol]

Would it be possible to do no-chill with a 5 gal glass carboy? I would use a foam stopper, NOT an airlock or anything else that might get clogged up, which would create a potentially dangerous vacuum in the glass.

NOOOOOOOO

Is your carboy Pyrex? Want to see a glass carboy explode from temp. shock? DO NOT DO IT

 

[shoebag22]

Can you no chill with better bottles?

 

[lustreking]

Can you no chill with better bottles?

I'd avoid doing that, too. I set a better bottle a little too close to my burner once, and now it's less than a 6 gallon bottle.

 

[Saccharomyces]

That's it .... I'm doing this. So basically you have your pre boil volume plus what the grain's going to absorb in your mash tun?

So my preboil volume is 7 gallons and we'll say 11 lbs of grain. The grain should absorb 1.375 gallons so I just mash with 8.375 gallons (roughly) ? Is that right?

Yep it's that simple, and my volume worked out spot on (I was a quart short pre-boil because I spilled a quart of water trying to prime the pump ). I made a chart in the back of my brewlog notebook so I don't have to figure it out each time.

The ale pail is a #2 HDPE food grade ale pail, same one you get from LHBS. HDPE can handle the heat. Anything else cannot including glass... Better Bottles melt at just over 140*F... for more info on no chill see this thread, no sense re-hashing it all here.

 

[jason.mundy]

This makes me wonder how little we can do and still get a good beer.

Skip the mash tun and sparging with BIAB.
Skip chilling with the no chill method.
Skip preparing a starter by using the "real wort" starter method.
Skip aerating by using olive oil in the starter.

Pretty soon, All-Grain will be quicker than extract

 

[Saccharomyces]

This makes me wonder how little we can do and still get a good beer.
...
Skip aerating by using olive oil in the starter.

There are a couple of threads on this one... longer lag times and more esters. I think that one is busted.

 

[chefchris]

Yep it's that simple, and my volume worked out spot on (I was a quart short pre-boil because I spilled a quart of water trying to prime the pump ). I made a chart in the back of my brewlog notebook so I don't have to figure it out each time.

The ale pail is a #2 HDPE food grade ale pail, same one you get from LHBS. HDPE can handle the heat. Anything else cannot including glass... Better Bottles melt at just over 140*F... for more info on no chill see this thread, no sense re-hashing it all here.

Saweeet! Yeah, I'm already no chill (as you can see in my sig). I think I've done about 8 batches this way. I've heard Jamil say a couple of times that he thinks you get the best wort quality with no sparge. I don't understand why he doesn't do it, though.

Next beer no sparge - no chill - no hops.






ok, maybe hops.

 

[johntangus]

The sparge manifold in the cooler is a 3' piece of reinforced PVC tubing from Home Depot with holes drilled every 1/2" and a plug in the end. It's connected to a nipple sandwich which comes through the lid just like the pot lid.

mmmmmmmmm, nipple sandwich.

 

[buzzkill]

I think this is the way I want to go. no HLT,one pump,one burner. less $$.

 

[chefchris]

Ok, so I just read an article on BYO about no sparge. It says,

When you brew with the no-sparge method, this 3 to 5 gallons is added to the mash tun at the end of the mash, before recirculation, and allows the mash tun to be simply drained to achieve full boil volume. By using more grain and adding all the water during the mash, you can relax and not worry about mash pH, astringency and undershooting your gravity.

Sounds like they're adding the rest of the water at the end of the mash.

If I just mash with my total boil volume (7 gallons) I figure my strike temperature will be different as the water to grain ratio is drastically different. How did you calculate that?

I just might try this tomorrow.

 

[smoa]

7gal*4=28 quarts. 28quarts/13lbs of grain= 2.15384615 quarts/lbs I just randomly picked 13 lbs. then go here
http://www.rackers.org/calcs.shtml
with a ration of 2.15, a grain temp of 60, and a desired temp of 155, your strike temp should be 166.

 

[chefchris]

7gal*4=28 quarts. 28quarts/13lbs of grain= 2.15384615 quarts/lbs I just randomly picked 13 lbs. then go here
http://www.rackers.org/calcs.shtml
with a ration of 2.15, a grain temp of 60, and a desired temp of 155, your strike temp should be 166.

Why, oh, why did I not think to use brewing software?

I blame it on the homebrew.

 

[Saccharomyces]

Yeap BeerSmith handles it just fine when you plug in the whole volume as the strike volume.

+11* over mash temp was dead on, according to my notes from the first brew.

 

[chefchris]

Heating up my mash water now. All 9 gallons of it for a 5 gallon batch.

You ever try to make anything out of the second runnings? I'm doing a stout tonight. Maybe I'll throw some hops in and make an extremely light stout.

 

[chefchris]

I should be heating up my sparge water right now. But now I have time to post senslessly. Just thought I'd gloat.

 

[g13092]

I'm really liking this setup, Sacc. I've been debating my next move for a while and this has given me serious food for thought.

I've got a 10 gal cooler MLT and a converted sanke pot that currently serves double duty HLT & boil kettle. I hate all the shuffling of buckets and pots up and down, so a pump is highly desireable. Also, I notice quite a bit of stratification in my MLT, cool at the bottom, hot near the top. Recirculating would fix that for sure. I really like using the BK for the heating device, it's just so simple!

So, the curiosity I have about recirculating the entire volume, no sparge, and BIAB in general is the effect the larger volume of water has on the mash PH. You've got a larger quantity of water, is there any reason that would wreak havoc? I'm just starting to understand mash PH, so I could be way off base...

 

[Saccharomyces]

You ever try to make anything out of the second runnings? I'm doing a stout tonight. Maybe I'll throw some hops in and make an extremely light stout.

I haven't yet, but I will definitely partigyle the Red IPA when I do it no sparge since I'll be doing 10 gallons at 1.065-1.070. That should net a 1.050-ish 5 gallon batch of APA I can throw in my second pot.

 

[Saccharomyces]

You've got a larger quantity of water, is there any reason that would wreak havoc? I'm just starting to understand mash PH, so I could be way off base...

I load up Palmer's water treatment spreadsheet and plug in my SRM and water profile. I set the mash volume to 9 gallons. That gives me the quantity of salts and/or acid to adjust my mash pH. Whereas I might usually say, do 1 tsp of gypsum in the mash and use 4mL of lactic acid for sparge, I will end up throwing them both into the mash tun at the same time so my Calcium doesn't end up too high.

 

[HSM]

Looks like a nice setup that I'm considering doing. I don't know squat about these pumps, how is the flow restricted or governed so that the flow during recirculation is balanced?

I assume the toolbox is to keep it dry. Anything special on how to mount it in a tb?

 

[Saccharomyces]

Looks like a nice setup that I'm considering doing. I don't know squat about these pumps, how is the flow restricted or governed so that the flow during recirculation is balanced?

I assume the toolbox is to keep it dry. Anything special on how to mount it in a tb?

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/march-pump-group-buy-133567/index5.html#post1558041

Inside the box there is a valve on the OUT side of the pump to restrict the flow. I calibrated the flow rates during a trial run and used a Sharpie to mark where on the pump valve the flow is equal to the flow from the MLT when its valve is fully open. It's about 3 quarts/min. Using the mark as a starting point, I only have to adjust it very slightly in the first 5 min and it will balance out after that.

The pump is just sitting in the box with holes drilled for the inlet and outlet, the fittings hold it in place. I didn't mount it at all, because I want to be able to remove the pump should the need arise.

 

[HSM]

THanks for the info! Just picked up a March 809 PL-HS-C on Ebay for $104 shipped. This is going to be fun!

 

[TeufelBrew]

THanks for the info! Just picked up a March 809 PL-HS-C on Ebay for $104 shipped. This is going to be fun!

Check it when it comes in. If you bought it from USAPUMPS, he had some mixups on delivery. I ordered mine a month ago, it was late (got it Monday), and it was the center inlet, not inline that I ordered.

However, Michael from USAPUMPS was quick to correct the issue and is sending replacement head. Smoking deal on pumps and gets me set to do my own no sparge.

 

[Saccharomyces]

Check it when it comes in. If you bought it from USAPUMPS, he had some mixups on delivery. I ordered mine a month ago, it was late (got it Monday), and it was the center inlet, not inline that I ordered.

However, Michael from USAPUMPS was quick to correct the issue and is sending replacement head. Smoking deal on pumps and gets me set to do my own no sparge.

Isn't the -C the center inlet model? Seems like it would work just fine too, it just needs to be mounted differently.

 

[jeremysavoy]

Wouldn't you be worried about off flavors and chill haze as a result of slow wort cooling?

See here - the chemistry is hard to dispute:
http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter7-4.html