Hy Pappy! How you been?
Hy Pappy! How you been?
If you're referring to the move... not till early next year which is to much time to think about it.![]()
Beautiful sexy girls, the ocean, yaht, sports car, drinking..hmm. Not sure I get it.
Whoop whoop!![]()
Why would you need an excuse?I guess everyone has different ideas of beautiful. I made it about 30 seconds. I have had too many beers tonight. Couple hours a day of cutting deadfall for kindling the last two days and five miles of trail yesterday and I am sore. That's my excuse for the last three beers anyway.![]()
Hey Stauff, I was looking around for an avatar for you and I ran into this. Not a black and white, but...
That reminds me of the instructions that say a 5 gram packet of dry yeast is good for 5 gallons. Sure it is, if your OG is 1.020. Since most of mine are more like 1.100 I usually make a starter for a 5 gallon batch. Shenanigans...I think I just figured out why my Brett. beers are fermenting so slowly - they were extremely underpitched. Despite the instructions on the White Labs vial that says the contents are good for 5 gallons of beer, the rest of the world apparently thinks that is bunk and recommends large starters for WL yeastsI could either buy more yeast (not likely at $7 a pop) or try to culture up a starter from my Brett-only batch and add it back to both brews. Or I could just let them both ride as-is.
I hate following instructions to the letter, then finding out I have been led astray. Grr....
That reminds me of the instructions that say a 5 gram packet of dry yeast is good for 5 gallons. Sure it is, if your OG is 1.020. Since most of mine are more like 1.100 I usually make a starter for a 5 gallon batch. Shenanigans...
I think I just figured out why my Brett. beers are fermenting so slowly - they were extremely underpitched. Despite the instructions on the White Labs vial that says the contents are good for 5 gallons of beer, the rest of the world apparently thinks that is bunk and recommends large starters for WL yeastsI could either buy more yeast (not likely at $7 a pop) or try to culture up a starter from my Brett-only batch and add it back to both brews. Or I could just let them both ride as-is.
I hate following instructions to the letter, then finding out I have been led astray. Grr....
Sure, anything more then 1.080 gets a starter. Dry yeast or no.Starter for dry yeast? Say what?
Sure, anything more then 1.080 gets a starter. Dry yeast or no.
Sure, anything more then 1.080 gets a starter. Dry yeast or no.
How do you make your starters for wine? I hadn't thought of it, but I only have one 5g pack for the peach wine I plan to make. I'm sure it will be a high gravity. Do you just make a simple syrup for the starter? Do you hydrate first and then add the hydrated yeast to the starter?
At under $1 a pack, I'd just use another pack.
I always pull a 1qt jar of hot wort before it boils. Put a lid on it and let it cool. Boom, canned wort ready for my next brew day. I use that qt to make my starter for the next beer, adding water to adjust the gravity.
I always pull a 1qt jar of hot wort before it boils. Put a lid on it and let it cool. Boom, canned wort ready for my next brew day. I use that qt to make my starter for the next beer, adding water to adjust the gravity.
Normally that's what I do with beer. I use US 05 quite often, and I'll double up packs on big beers all the time. The only problem is I'm making my wine in a week, but I don't plan on making any online supply orders for a while. I have a huge grocery list growing on Austin Homebrew, but I won't have the money to place the order for a few weeks. I don't have a lhbs..
It depends on what I'm making. I prefer to use the same combination of sugars as would be present in the wine. So, usually I use the juice that's going to go in the wine diluted to about 1.030. If I'm going to use nutrients in the batch, I usually do, then I dissolve those in the starter before adding the yeast.How do you make your starters for wine? I hadn't thought of it, but I only have one 5g pack for the peach wine I plan to make. I'm sure it will be a high gravity. Do you just make a simple syrup for the starter? Do you hydrate first and then add the hydrated yeast to the starter?
Interesting. The main reason I use dry yeast is that I can leave it in my fridge almost indefinitely without worrying about it being viable when I go to use it. The aeration thing is nice and all, but with dry yeast I can have a half dozen yeast strains on hand without taking up much space or needing to refresh them constantly.Why not just use another pack of yeast? Dry yeast's main advantage is that you don't need to oxygenate and you lose that by making a starter.
At under $1 a pack, I'd just use another pack.
I don't make beer, so that's not applicable. It's a great idea for those that do though.I always pull a 1qt jar of hot wort before it boils. Put a lid on it and let it cool. Boom, canned wort ready for my next brew day. I use that qt to make my starter for the next beer, adding water to adjust the gravity.
I'll keep wort in the fridge, but I always re-boil before I use for starters. What you're doing fall somewhere between poor sanitation and asking for botulism.
I can mail you some Saturday if it will help or tomorrow if you want Redstar cuvee or some out of date ec-1118.