i have brewed two diff batches from kits...both sucked whats up?

[hendrixsrv630]

so i purchased a true brew kit and it came with a pale ale...did everything the instructions said to tried to be as sanitary as possiable but the beer just dosnt taste that good. so i purchased a brown ale true brew kit, same thing it just taste like crap. i know this isnt much info to go on but is it better to just brew from a recipe? i just started this whole homebrewing thing and i dont wanna suck at it and give up

 

[Golddiggie]

Comes down to the old saying "quality in, quality out; crap in, crap out"... Get some quality kits for your initial batches. Such as from the bigger online vendors (MidWest, Northern Brewer, AHS, etc.) that include specialty grain, unhopped extract, hop pellets, and good quality yeast. Read up about what to do post chill-down with the wort here, 99% of the time you can ignore the directions once it has you pitch the yeast in. Also go through the beginner's section here and read up. If you don't have a hydrometer, get one and learn to use it properly.

Personally, my first two batches were really good. Once I updated my methods to match conventional wisdom (found here, often via Revvy) my batches got much better. Once I went all grain, I gained more control over my batches, and have been producing even better/great beer. I made three extract kit batches, one partial mash, and now 11 all-grain brews. With no end in sight. Oh, and that's since about the middle of November 2010. Once you get sucked into the hobby, and produce some really good brew, I think you're in it for life. :rockin:

 

[Revvy]

Let me guess...if you foloowed basic kits instructions you didn't use a hydrometer to take gravit readings, rather you let it ferment for 7 days or until the airlock stopped bubbling, then probably transfered it to a secondary for a few days (maybe) botted it and opened them after a week in the bottle...

How close am I to your situation?

The biggest thing is that unless you infected the beer, it more than likely tastes like crap because they are really young, what we call green. If that's the case, which it more likely is, all is not lost....leave your beer in a closet for a couple of weeks more and taste them again. 99% of the time your beer will magically be better. Because the beer has conditioned in the bottled, it's matured and the flavors have married, like how leftover chili or spaghetti sauce always taste better the next day.

Your beer should do the same.

If this isn't the case, then maybe if you went into detail about the recipe and your procedure we can get to the bottom of this.

 

[thezepster]

Let me guess...if you foloowed basic kits instructions you didn't use a hydrometer to take gravit readings, rather you let it ferment for 7 days or until the airlock stopped bubbling, then probably transfered it to a secondary for a few days (maybe) botted it and opened them after a week in the bottle...

How close am I to your situation?

The biggest thing is that unless you infected the beer, it more than likely tastes like crap because they are really young, what we call green. If that's the case, which it more likely is, all is not lost....leave your beer in a closet for a couple of weeks more and taste them again. 99% of the time your beer will magically be better. Because the beer has conditioned in the bottled, it's matured and the flavors have married, like how leftover chili or spaghetti sauce always taste better the next day.

Your beer should do the same.

If this isn't the case, then maybe if you went into detail about the recipe and your procedure we can get to the bottom of this.

I agree... maybe it just needs more time. give it at least 2 weeks in the fermenter AT THE REQUIRED TEMP. Then 2 weeks in the bottle at room temp to allow the bottles to carbonate, then stick some in the fridge for about a week to cold condition. If it still tastes bad after doing that then theres something wrong with your brewing process. We'll have to know more to narrow down what it is.

 

[hendrixsrv630]

no your 100% right revvy...i have a hydrometer but i didnt use it on my second batch. i didnt think it was that important, but i have a feeling your laughing at that lol the first 4 days I didnt see any action in the airlock then it went off for about 5 days left it in there for a few days after that (12 days or so), then I transfered it over to the secondary for a week. bottled it and tried it after a week.

the kit dosnt say what brand each ingrediant was...but this is the list of what was in it if it helps.
unhopped dark malt extract 1 can
dark dried malt extract 2lbs
hop pellets 1oz
ale yeast

 

[Yooper]

What brand did you buy? I think the Brewer's Best kits are ok, but they can sit around a long time and aren't always very fresh as a result.

I'd suggest buying a kit from northernbrewer.com or austinhomebrew.com. I lean towards AHS for kits, because they have hundreds and hundreds to choose from, and you can do anything from a "clone" brew to a certain style. They also have very good instructions.

I'd also recommend keeping the fermenter in a cool place- 62-68 degrees is about right. Keeping in mind that fermentation produces heat, and the temperature inside the fermenter can rise up to 10 degrees above the ambient temperature and your goal should be to keep the fermenting beer under 70 degrees.

What kind of water did you use? Tap water can have some funny flavors as a result of chlorine or chloramines added to the water. To check, try making a batch with 100% bottled water from the store.

Yeast is really important also. I'd suggest a good quality dry yeast like Safale S05 or S04 for ease of use and good results.

 

[Golddiggie]

Things you can do to get better brew without any extra effort (or minimal effort at most)...

1. Ignore time's posted on most recipes. At best they are general guidelines and should be taken as such. Personally, I would simply ignore them.
2. Always pull a hydrometer sample before moving your brew. After you take the reading taste/drink it.
3. FG is determined when you have two matching SG readings spaced 2-3 (or more) days apart.
4. RDWHAHB (or quality craft beer until you have home brew on hand).
5. Yeast either ignore, or laugh at, human time scales when it comes to fermenting. The sooner you accept that, the sooner you can move on. Give the yeast the time it needs to do it's job right.
6. Give the yeast enough air in the wort when it gets pitched (before pitching the yeast aerate/oxygenate the wort).
7. Pitch the correct amount of yeast for the brew. Reference the Mr. Malty site for how much yeast you need based on the batch size and OG.
8. Learn to make starters, and do this as much/often as possible to get the correct amount of yeast for the brew.
9. RDWHAHB, or three...
10. Learn to not worry about the airlock not moving. If you're fermenting in a bucket, the excess CO2 could be getting out from another location. Gravity readings tell the real story when fermenting.
Finally, make sure the yeast is at the desired temperature, or temperature range at least while it's actively fermenting. After that, things are more forgiving, but don't let it go too high.

Personally, I let brews go a minimum of 3-4 weeks on the yeast now. I have had batches go 6 weeks on the yeast, followed by several weeks aging on oak. Came out great. Also, higher OG batches need more time than lower OG batches (Revvy has pointed this out I don't know how many times)... I won't even THINK about looking at a batch until after 3 weeks on the yeast. Granted, I'm brewing ales (British Isle styles mostly) so this works out great.

 

[hendrixsrv630]

both kits where True Brew kits. i keep my fermenter in a tub of water in my room which is usualy the coolest part of my apartment. the temp of the water is usually 65-70*. im not sure how to get the temp inside the fermenter. i used distilled water from the store. the water here in arizona is pretty ****ty (as far as human consumption goes) so i didnt even mess with it. and i used the yeast from the kit fergot what kind it was the box nor the instructions say and i threw the package away.

 

[Yooper]

both kits where True Brew kits. i keep my fermenter in a tub of water in my room which is usualy the coolest part of my apartment. the temp of the water is usually 65-70*. im not sure how to get the temp inside the fermenter. i used distilled water from the store. the water here in arizona is pretty ****ty (as far as human consumption goes) so i didnt even mess with it. and i used the yeast from the kit fergot what kind it was the box nor the instructions say and i threw the package away.

That actually is a pretty good technique!

Maybe try something different than True Brew to see if it's those kits or if it's something you're doing.

Instead of distilled water, try bottled spring water or reverse osmosis drinking water.

 

[MistyMountainHops]

"no your 100% right revvy..."

I LOL at that. When I read Revvy's response that's exactly what I thought. Keep at it dude. You are obviously brewing beer because you like quality beer. Read up on this site, because you have the capability to make some damn good beer with a little know how. Like Golddiggie said, it's a very rewarding hobby that will likely take a hold of you.

Good luck!

 

[hendrixsrv630]

okay...i think the first batch i sucked up to much yeast when i bottled and it may have altered the taste...it was very cloudy. k my next batch ill use osmosis...i saved all the gallon jugs from the distiled and there is a omosis station at my apartmen complex that should work.

 

[Golddiggie]

They make/sell adhesive backed thermometers (LCD I believe) that you can adhere to your fermenter. I have one on pretty much all of mine. Gives you a better idea of what the temp is inside it... Best way, though, would be with a thermowell and accurate thermometer. Not viable for many, or costs more than people want to spend. The stickie thermo will give you a good enough idea to know if you're safe or in danger.

 

[hendrixsrv630]

"no your 100% right revvy..."

I LOL at that. When I read Revvy's response that's exactly what I thought. Keep at it dude. You are obviously brewing beer because you like quality beer. Read up on this site, because you have the capability to make some damn good beer with a little know how. Like Golddiggie said, it's a very rewarding hobby that will likely take a hold of you.

Good luck!

it was like he was there watching me brew i gotta check my closet...yah i love good beer i go to alot of breweries and thats how i got hooked. i have no prob drinking my crap beer but i want to be able to bring it to parties and dinners with friends and have them enjoy something i made.

 

[thezepster]

it was like he was there watching me brew

he was. he always is.

 

[kapbrew13]

Avoid the secondary and make another batch in the secondary. This way is you stagger your batches the 3+ weeks wont seem so long.

 

[Golddiggie]

Get more primaries/fermenters and RDWHAHB... The more primaries you have, and batches you get going, giving them the right amount of time, and establish a good pipeline early on, the happier you'll be (and the better your brews will become)... :rockin:

 

[jd3]

Another question, that sometimes gets missed. Have you tried these types of beers from commercial breweries? did you like them?

 

[kapbrew13]

Another question, that sometimes gets missed. Have you tried these types of beers from commercial breweries? did you like them?

Good point. Lately I've been trying beers and making ones I like. Started with and amber but its ok. Found out I like ipa, porters and stouts.

 

[hendrixsrv630]

well i usually drink IPA's. both kits where basic beers pale ale and brown ale. so not much to compare them to as far as them being a clone.

ps what is RDWHAHB

 

[MrMeans]

relax, dont worry, have a home brew.

I agree with you about the water here not being that great for brewing. I had to switch over to bottled water for brewing since I moved to Tempe. Brewing is just one of those things that you got to keep at. I am about a year and a half in and I am just now starting to make beers that are on par with what I could buy in the store. You will make small tweaks here and there. Just be vigilant and keep reading up on what you're doing and don't be afraid to try new techniques.

You said the beers don't taste that good, is there a flavor that is off? My first few beers had a really strong diacetyl (buttery) flavor to them from the yeast not being at the right temp. If that is the case you are on the right path as far as fermenting in an isolated bucket. Try chilling your wort to below your optimal yeast pitching temp and then aerating it. That helped me out a lot, also let it sit on the yeast longer. As mentioned before I go a minimum of three weeks on the yeast and at least two in the bottle before I crack them open. When I make a beer with other additions I give it even more time in the bottle.

To see what bottle conditioning can do set aside a few bottles of your most recent brew. Brew another batch and when that batch is drinkable try your bottle you stashed away.

Good Luck!