Just a note... the process I'm recommending is called BIAB - which I've actually never done before. I do a method called mashing, so be sure to seek verification from other posters that the process I've outlined is correct. Nonetheless, I hope it helps. Also, to note, you'll need a very large stock-pot for this... probably at least 10 gallon capacity.
1) Your malt is the grains. Since you're doing a brown ale, there's probably a base grain (the sugars of which will mostly ferment into alcohol) and a specialty grain (that mostly doesn't ferment and will add more colour and flavor). If one is darker, then it's probably the specialty grain. Both of these grains need to be milled in order to be useful for brewing. I'll assume that you don't have a grain mill. If the grains don't look all crushed up (but not to the point of being like flower), then you need to get them milled. Your local home brew store (LHBS) can likely mill them for you.
2) The hops will add flavor to the beer. What particular type of hops they are and how long they are boiled for will determine what flavors they add to the beer. Generally speaking, boiling them for a long time (30-60 mins) will impart a bittering flavor to the beer. Boiling them for less time (10-30 mins) will impart a flavor particular to the hops (such as pine flavor, citrusy, etc). Adding them very late (0-10 mins) as well as 'dry hopping' (adding them to the fermenter once fermention is near the end) lends more of an aroma to the beer. Depending on how much hops you have, I would consider splitting it into 2 or 3 groups and add one group to boil with the beer for 60 mins, and the other for maybe 15 mins.
3) The campden tablet is to remove the chlorine/chloramines out of you water before you start brewing. Usually 1/2 a tablet is good for a 5-gallon batch.
4) I have no idea what the other small white tablet is... someone else will have to chime in.
Process:
1) We need to extract the starch out of the grains and convert that starch into sugar. We do that by milling them and then steeping them in hot water. For steeping, I use something called a Mash-tun for this, but there's no need to go out and buy or build expensive equipment. Instead you can do something called brew-in-a-bag (BIAB), which is essentially using a process like a tea-bag, called a muslin bag. I've not done BIAB before, so someone else can correct me if giving wrong instructions. Get one of these bags from your LHBS, and have them mill the grains. You'll also need sanitizer, but I assume you'll have that from your other booze-making experience.
2) Measure out your water supply, accounting for boil off, grain absorption and a little bit sucked up by the hops and break material (basically some non-harmful gunk that'll get left over in the bottom of your kettle). If you know the weight of the grain, and your desired target volume (5 gallons?) you can probably find an online calculator that will guestimate how much water you want to start with (or a BIAB aficionado can make a recommendation). Crush 1/2 of the campden tablet and stir it into the pot. Edit: I see you've added some of this information, so I've used a online calculator to determine that you need 7.1 gallons of water. I've not used this calculator before, so you may want to double check with other posters who do BIAB. Note, 7.1 gallons of water and 10.3 lbs of grain is going to take up a lot of space - you'll need a pot that can hold all of this comfortably (I'm guessing a minimum 10 gallon pot).
http://pricelessbrewing.github.io/BiabCalc/
3) Heat the water to approximately 164 F. (We're overshooting the 152 F target so that when you add the cooler grains, it will hopefully meet at 152F)
4) Add the bag of grains, being careful not the let it rest on the bottom of the pot whenever you have the flame on (hang it over the side of the pot if you can). You can cover it with a lid if that helps to keep a more consistent temperature.
5) Steep the bag of grains in this hot water for 1 hour, being careful to monitor its temperature and keep it in the 148-156 range (ideally around 152). Be very careful not to let it go above 168, as this will add tannins. (For this step I use a different process to target 152, so others can correct me if I'm wrong). One thing you can do is take the pot off the heat, and so long as it's stable, wrap the pot in a big warm blanket. I've never done that with a pot, but I do it with my mash-tun and over an hour I only lose 1-2 degrees.
6) Once it's steeped for an hour you should have a dark, sweet (and sticky) solution called 'wort'. Remove the grain bag and bring the wort to a boil. Be very careful because when it nears boiling it will foam up (and over the sides of your pot) leaving a sticky mess on anything it spills onto. This is called the 'hot break'. Avoid it spilling over by blowing on it, stirring it, turning down the heat, removing it from the burner, spraying cold water at it from a pump bottle... whatever you need to do to avoid having a mess that is difficult to clean.
7) Once it comes to a boil and you get the hot break, start a timer and add your first group of hops (or all of it, if you like). Boil for one hour. Note that it can at random times (but especially when you add hops) boil up again, so keep a careful eye on it. DO NOT cover it with a lid during the boil - the vapor needs to escape.
8) When there's 5-10 mins left to go in the hour long boil, add the second group of hops. Watch out for a boil over. If you get any hops sticking to the side of the pot after it boils up, try to splash it back down into the boiling wort (without making a mess outside the pot).
9) When the hour is up, take it off the heat. Now you need to cool it down to the temperature you want to pitch the yeast at. And ideally you want to cool it as quickly as possible. Once the beer sinks below pasteurization temperatures (150-ish?) it is prime time for wild bacteria to get in there an mess up your beer, hence why you want to get it down in temperature quickly. Move the pot over to the sink or bathtub and submerge the it in cold water (ice helps too). You should get it down to around 65 F. After it's been boiled and is now cooling down, anything that comes into contact with the wort ought to be clean and sanitized. While it's cooling you can put the lid on to keep out any bacteria that might be catching a ride on dust. Try to be sanitary and do this quickly, but don't be paranoid or anxious to the point that it ruins your enjoyment of the process.
10) Once it's down to 65, transfer it into your cleaned and sanitized fermentation bucket/carboy. Some people try to transfer as little of the break material (spongey-looking gunk and hop debris) as possible into the fermenter, others dump it all in. I tend to decide on the fly and I usually make the decision according to how much volume I appear to have in the pot - if it's looks like I'm a bit short I throw it all in, whereas if it looks like I have more than I need I try to leave the gunk behind. If you want to leave the gunk behind, try to let it settle to the bottom of the kettle and disturb it as little as possible while its cooling - this will help leave a lot of it behind in the kettle. The trade off is that you can't counter-stir it (with a sanitized spoon) to the direction cold water on the outside which cools it down significantly faster. Take a gravity reading so you can later determine how much alcohol is in this beer.
11) Aerate it. I use a sanitized paint stirrer attached to an electric drill. There are other methods (such as rolling a carboy around on a tennis ball). You want lots of oxygen to get in there - it will help the yeast.
12) Add the yeast. I assume it's dry yeast. It's best to 'rehydrate' the yeast (which you can work on doing while the pot is boiling during that hour), but if you pitch it 'dry' (i.e. right out of the package) you'll still have good beer.
13) Put the airlock on it (filled with sanitizer, vodka, or just plain water). A "blow off tube" is better than an airlock as it reduces the chances of the airlock getting clogged with krausen (crap that will gunk up the top of the beer). Google the term if you're unfamiliar and want to rig one up. Blow of tubes are only usually recommended for the first 2-3 days of fermentation.
14) While fermenting, you want to keep it's temperature probably around 65. Avoid going over 70, and if it looks like it will then use a "swamp cooler" (an easy rig from household materials) to keep it around 65ish. Then just wait... I'm sure you know the rest.
I hope that helps. Enjoy!
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