I cant get my mash tun to not leak.

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JayWeezie

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I've tried every configuration I can think of with the hose gaskets/rubber washers/rubber gaskets that I have and cant get it to stop dripping from the ball valve.
Im thinking of wrapping the shank of the valve with plumbers tape.
The leak isn't that bad but it should leak at all right?
 
Definitely go with some thread tape and see if that does the trick, unless its dripping from the handle shaft, in which case you have bigger issues
 
I used a rubber stopper in mine that I drilled out and put everything through. Works like a charm and has been leak proof for 40+ batches now.
 
Is the valve itself leaking or is it the seal between the valve and the body of the cooler?
 
If you did not use teflon sealant on the male threads the liquid can travel the thread.

If its coming from the body of the valve, you have a bad valve seal and need to remove the valve and open it up to check the seal.

What valve are you using?

Takes some pictures and post them so we can see where the leak is coming from.
 
Assiming it is leaking at the body of the cooler, you may need to file down the bumps on the plastic of the cooler to get a better seal from your rubber gasket.
 
Native302 said:
I used a rubber stopper in mine that I drilled out and put everything through. Works like a charm and has been leak proof for 40+ batches now.

This. After spending all that money on couplings, o-rings and valves; a drilled rubber stopper with a short length of copper pipe for $2 won.
I wonder how many people have wort seeping down into the insulation and don't know it yet.
 
This. After spending all that money on couplings, o-rings and valves; a drilled rubber stopper with a short length of copper pipe for $2 won.
I wonder how many people have wort seeping down into the insulation and don't know it yet.

Can you please give details on how you did this? You now have me wondering how many coolers have wort soaked insulation. Thanks.
 
This. After spending all that money on couplings, o-rings and valves; a drilled rubber stopper with a short length of copper pipe for $2 won.
I wonder how many people have wort seeping down into the insulation and don't know it yet.

I've seen that sort of setup before. Any chance the stopper comes out while your mashing? Also, you use one of those plastic in-line valves to shut the flow off?
 
Native302 said:
I used a rubber stopper in mine that I drilled out and put everything through. Works like a charm and has been leak proof for 40+ batches now.

This sounds like the way to go. I have a few of these stoppers. Gonna try that.
Its leaking from the hole of the cooler.
 
I've seen that sort of setup before. Any chance the stopper comes out while your mashing? Also, you use one of those plastic in-line valves to shut the flow off?

Insert the stopper from the inside of the cooler and it won't pop out. I use a nylon valve on my cooler set up. I just pulled some vinyl tubing through the stopper, slapped on a hose braid and a valve and it's been smooth sailing ever since.
 
This kind of sounds what your talking about,am I correct.It`s a 12" piece of
3/8 copper tubing pushed thru a stopper.The length inside the tun was drilled with several holes and then covered with a braid.I`ve run about 50 gals. thru it.
Just make sure the stopper is seated well and stay away from the braid when stirring the mash.





 
Insert the stopper from the inside of the cooler and it won't pop out. I use a nylon valve on my cooler set up. I just pulled some vinyl tubing through the stopper, slapped on a hose braid and a valve and it's been smooth sailing ever since.

Sure.. but no ball valve, no quick disconnect? I love my camlocks, wasn't that hard to get a leak free seal on my cooler...
 
Sure.. but no ball valve, no quick disconnect? I love my camlocks, wasn't that hard to get a leak free seal on my cooler...

Hey, if you want to spend 10x the money on a cheap cooler set up to get the same job done, more power to ya.
 
This is how I did mine. This is shown all stretched out. When pushed together everything is much closer together. The CPVC also forms a square, I only assembled part of it.

The rubber stoppers are very resilient. If you push one in good and tight from the inside, they won't come out. I also use a house clamp on the outside hose, but not the inside. A 5/8 to 3/8 copper reducer would be better, but I had to order the last two for the cfc, so it's not worth postage to get one for this.

Ghetto? Sure. But cheap and effective.

ForumRunner_20120204_135553.jpg
 
Hey, if you want to spend 10x the money on a cheap cooler set up to get the same job done, more power to ya.

Haha, fair enough.. can't disagree, I don't need 3 piece stainless steel ball lock valves, stainless camlock quick disconnects, stainless kettles, etc. to brew good beer.
 
Mine is a mix of ordered and scrounged pieces. I'm using a brass ball valve(read Palmer's metallurgy before you flame me), some silicon orings ordered from jet gasket, and some stainless washers from a local(free) source. It could be cheaper but I like it.
 
Ingenious ideas to make a cheap effective mash tun. I wish this thread would have been posted a few years ago.
 
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