I brewed a favorite recipe today

[D.B.Moody]

I brewed a favorite recipe today, not one of mine, but the Moose Drool inspired recipe @BrewnWKopperKat posted in this thread at #16. I've adapted it to 5 gallons, late addition, and Hallertauer replacing Liberty hops. I'm calling's it "Droll Moose."

5 1/2 gal. water
6 lbs. Briess Pale Ale DME
1 lb. 60L crystal malt
1/4 lb. chocolate malt
1 1/2 oz, midnight wheat
1/4 tsp. calcium chloride
1 1/2 oz. Willamette, 6.0 alpha for the boil, adjusted HBUs 9.9
1 1/4 oz. Hallertauer Mittelfuher for flavor
1 1/4 oz. Hallertauer Mittelfuher for aroma
1 S04 ale yeast

Dissolve 3 lbs. DME in 1/2 gal. water for late addition
Dissolve 3 lbs. DME in 3/4 gal. for boil, add 1/4 tsp. CaCl, begin heating
Steep grains in 3/4 gal. water for 30 min. at 150-160 F.
Strain into boil kettle, bring to boil, add boil hops
30 min. boil
10 min. flavor hops
0 min. add late addition and aroma hops
Cover and move to sink for water bath cool down
Pour into fermenter, top off to 5 gal. with chilled water

HBUs are adjusted down 10% for a 30 min. boil and up 20% for the late addition of half the extract

Edit: corrected brewing steps error.

 

[user 298779]

Today I brewed one of my best beers. I brewed a German Wheat. This is super simple and carbs up fast.

2.5 gal of water
3 lbs. Briess Bavarian Wheat DME
.5 oz. Mandarina Bavaria hops
5.5 g. LalBrew Munich Classic yeast

Dissolve 2.5 lbs of the DME in 1 quart of water for a late addition.
Dissolve 1/2 lbs in 1.75 gallons of water in a brew pot and bring to a boil.
Once pot is boiling add hops and boil for 30 min (you can do this as a first-wort addition also)
At flameout add dissolved late addition DME let it set for 10 min and chill.
Add wort to fermentor and top up with cold water to 2.5 gallons
Pitch yeast

Next time I brew this I am going to replace the hops with Meridian or Lemondrop

This beer had excellent head retention and just a hint of orange to go with the banana and cloves from the yeast.

View attachment 740877

Dang that looks tasty!!

 

[JesterMage]

Dang that looks tasty!!

Give it a try. It was ready to drink in 3 weeks.

 

[ncbrewer]

My last brew was Baltic Porter - one of my favorites:
8 lbs Williams Brewing Baltic Porter LME (This is the key - the entire grain bill in one extract)
1/4 tsp CaCl (depends on your water and the extract)
0.66 mls lactic acid (depends on your water)
Campden as needed for chlorine in tap water
1.53 oz Willamette hops at 4.2% AA - for 21 IBUs (Tinseth)
1 packet US-05 yeast. (I know it should be handled as a lager, but this beer is so flavorful that the US-05 works well IMO.)

Boil enough water for 2.652 gallons including LME
Remove from heat and stir in 4 cups of LME
Return to boil and add all hops
Boil 40 minutes
Add remaining LME, cover, and let stand 10 minutes
Chill as needed so that top-off water will bring it to 60F
Top off to 5 gallons - stir well
Sprinkle dry yeast and fold into the wort gently
Ferment at 68F for four days, then at 72F for the duration

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

@ncbrewer : I am assuming that you are making water adjustments to your tap water.

How did you decide that you needed to add lactic acid? How did you decide how much lactic acid to add?

 

[ncbrewer]

@ncbrewer : I am assuming that you are making water adjustments to your tap water.

How did you decide that you needed to add lactic acid? How did you decide how much lactic acid to add?

Martin Brungard recommends under 50 ppm alkalinity, and less is better. I found the alkalinity of my tap water - it's very consistent. Bru'n Water shows how to adjust alkalinity in the Sparge Acidification sheet based on your starting water.

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

Martin Brungard recommends under 50 ppm alkalinity, and less is better

Where is that recommendation mentioned?

(I'm not disagreeing with it - it will be good to have a 'link' to the original recommendation).

update (a day later): I don't use "water chemistry" software and didn't expect to find the recommendation on adjusting sparge water in the Bru'n Water spreadsheet (I had assumed, incorrectly, that the spreadsheet was just calculations, not calculations & recommendations). I can see how the alkalinity adjustment for sparge water could also apply to adjusting tap water used for extract brewing.

 

[duncan_disorderly]

The reason for the S-33 yeast is that at that same time I was put out by the price jumps Nottingham has been taking. (It used to be a cheap yeast.)

I have started putting 2 different yeasts into the same brew. Part packs. Notty and S-33 is one that works well. Various benefits in performance, flavour, cost. Those two strains used to belong together, and work well together. Also Notty is available under other brand names. Mangrove Jack M42, Muntons Premium Gold. Possibly others. Mangrove Jack M36 is a good choice for English ales. I'm a big fan of Lallemand Verdant, it costs the same as their Nottingham but you can harvest yeast from its thick creamy krausen and reuse it very successfully. The best dry English ale yeast by a distance, IMO.

 

[D.B.Moody]

I'm a big fan of Lallemand Verdant . . . The best dry English ale yeast by a distance, IMO.

Well, then, I'll have to try it. What hops do you prefer with it?

EDIT: @Miraculix is also saying Verdant is best over on "English Ales - What's your favorite recipe?" on the General Home-brew Discussion forum at post #2571. So, @duncan_disorderly, you might like to chime in there. (I wish I could recall how to provide the link.)

 

[duncan_disorderly]

Well, then, I'll have to try it. What hops do you prefer with it?

Good question. It's a real all rounder, I reckon. It works well with fruity American hops, but also with spicy English hops. Goldings, Fuggles Challenger obviously. I like a combination of Northdown and First Gold. Pilgrim and Progress too, if you can find them.

 

[D.B.Moody]

. . . also with spicy English hops. Goldings, Fuggles Challenger obviously.

Thank you. That's it. I am going to use Verdant the next time I brew "Edmonds," the brew at post #1 that started this thread.

 

[ncbrewer]

Where is that recommendation mentioned?

(I'm not disagreeing with it - it will be good to have a 'link' to the original recommendation).

update (a day later): I don't use "water chemistry" software and didn't expect to find the recommendation on adjusting sparge water in the Bru'n Water spreadsheet (I had assumed, incorrectly, that the spreadsheet was just calculations, not calculations & recommendations). I can see how the alkalinity adjustment for sparge water could also apply to adjusting tap water used for extract brewing.

There is a recommendation in the Brun Water spreadsheet in the "Special Consideration for Extract Brewers" section of the Instructions sheet. He also discusses it in the HBT thread Bru’n water for Extract no boil

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

Thanks @ncbrewer ! Good resources for people who brew with extract & tap water (and know the mineral content of their water).

 

[duncan_disorderly]

Thank you. That's it. I am going to use Verdant the next time I brew "Edmonds," the brew at post #1 that started this thread.

I hope you like it! Be sure to crop some of the yeast from the top after a few days, it works brilliantly in subsequent brews. There is more flavour from re-pitched Verdant I reckon, and it will save you a few dollars each time too.

 

[ncbrewer]

Thanks @ncbrewer ! Good resources for people who brew with extract & tap water (and know the mineral content of their water).

You're welcome. Cheers.

 

[JesterMage]

again brewed "Red Queen" my Irish red ale.

I brewed this up yesterday. My OG came in low @ 1.035. It is nice and dark and looks like it will be good. Now I have to wait.

 

[Brews and Blues]

Got to try my latest brew this weekend and couldn't be happier. By far my best batch yet and by far the simplest brew I've ever done.

30 min boil
6lbs Muntons Light DME
1oz Mighty Julius Hops at 30mins
1oz Mighty Julius Hops at 15mins
Added DME at end of boil
One packet of US-05 fermented at 64 degrees for 2 weeks.

Loving this extract short boil method. Next I'm going to try your German Wheat @JesterMage

 

[Brews and Blues]

So follow up on this brew I poster earlier... this was my first time leaving the kits behind and compiling ingredients on my own. Not sure if it was freshness, or sticking with DME (no LME), or maybe a combo, but this beer is so much cleaner tasting. I have also honed in temp control during fermentation with an ink bird so it's probably a combo of all of these things. Just thought I would share. This hobby has some learning curve, but when you see progress like this, it really invigorates you to brew more.

 

[JesterMage]

I have an Inkbird but it is only for one room. I am coming into that time of year where the basement is cold and the upper floors are warmer so hopefully I will be able to regulate my Temps better.

That is one good-looking class of beer you have there

 

[D.B.Moody]

I brewed favorite recipe today. I brewed "JB Gold," a recipe I made to feature John Bull malt extract and East Kent Goldings and Stryian Goldings hops. Well, John Bull extract isn't around and Stryian Goldings became Stryian Celeia, but I still like the ale this makes.

5 1/2 gal. water
5 lbs. Muntons amber DME (John Bull was darker than the average malt extract)
1/2 lb. 60L crystal malt
1/4 lb. pale malt
1 1/2 oz. East Kent Goldings alpha 4.4 for the boil, adjusted HBUs 7.3
1/2 oz. Stryian Celeia for flavor
1/2 oz. Stryian Celeia for aroma
1 Muntons ale yeast

Dissolve 2 1/2 lbs. DME in 1/2 gal. water for late addition
Dissolve 2 1/2 lbs. DME in 1 gal. water for the boil, begin heating
Toast pale malt for 10 min. at 350 F, crack grains
Steep all grains in 1/2 gal. water for 30 min. at 150-160 F
Strain into boil kettle, bring to boil, add boil hops
30 min. boil
10 min. flavor hops
0 min. add late addition and aroma hops
Cover and move to sink for water bath cool down
Pour into fermenter, top off to 5 gal. with chilled water

HBU adjustment: 6.6 - 10% for 30 min. boil and + 20% for late addition of half the extract

This batch will be "Pilgrim Pale" for Thanksgiving. Next week I'll brew this again as "Santa's Helper" for a Christmas brew. "Pilgrim Pale" will be put through a secondary, but "Santa's Helper" will not. In December I'll compare the two.

 

[JesterMage]

Amber Christmas Ale
2.5 gal
OG - 1.o49
FG - 1.009
IBU 16-17
30 min boil

3.15 lbs. LME - Amber
4.30 oz. Briess - Caramel Malt - 40L (I had .30 oz left in the bag so I just tossed it in)
2 oz. Briess - Caramel Malt - 120L
2 oz. Briess - Chocolate - 350L
6 oz. Roll Oats
1/2 oz. Cluster Hops 6.2% AA- at first wort
1/2 tsp Pumpkin pie spice - flame-out
1 oz. Orange Peel - after initial fermentation (4-7 days)
3 oz. Vanilla or plain vodka - for soaking orange peels
1.5 oz. Pure vanilla extract when you add the orange peels and vodka
?? oz. Pure Vanilla extract - to taste at bottling
11 g. SafAle US-05

- Soak orange peels in vodka for about 4-7 days before adding to fermenter.
- Steep the malts and oats for 30-45 min at about 160-170 degrees.
- Add Amber LME and hops and bring to a boil for 30 min
- At flame-out add the pumpkin spice
- After high krausen add the orange peels, 1.5 oz. vanilla and vodka
- Add any extra vanilla at bottling

 

[D.B.Moody]

I brewed a favorite recipe today. Today I brewed "Schwarzer Ritter Bitter" which is based on Charlie Papazian's "Limp Richdard's Schwarzbier."
That recipe used 5 lbs.of Bierkeller dark malt extract and a lager yeast. I've always used an ale yeast and can't get Bierkeller anymore. I usually go with some version of "Black Knight Bitter" when I brew it, but I really enjoyed serving it as "Eclipse Dark Ale" at the eclipse gathering in my back yard 2017.

5 1/2 gal. water
4 1/2 lb. Munton's dark DME
1/2 lb. black malt (you could consider Carafa II here)
2 tsp. gypsum
1 1/2 oz Perle (BOIL) 11.1 HBU adjusted
1/2 oz. Tettanger (FLAVOR)
1/4 oz. Cascade and 3/4 oz. Tettanger (AROMA)
1 Nottingham ale yeast

Dissolve 2 1/4 lbs. DME in 1/2 gal. water for late addition
Dissolve 2 1/4 lbs. DME in 1 gal. water for boil, begin heating
Add 2 tsp. gypsum to heating boil water
Steep grains in 1/2 gal. water for 30 min at 150-160 F
Strain into boil kettle, bring to boil, add boil hops
30 min. boil
10 min. flavor hops
0 min. add late addition and aroma hops
Cover and move to sink for water bath cool down
Pour into fermenter and top to 5 gal. with chilled water

HBU 10.1 - 10% for 30 min. boil + 20% for late addition

 

[derekp83]

I brewed a favorite recipe today. Today I brewed "Schwarzer Ritter Bitter" which is based on Charlie Papazian's "Limp Richdard's Schwarzbier."
That recipe used 5 lbs.of Bierkeller dark malt extract and a lager yeast. I've always used an ale yeast and can't get Bierkeller anymore. I usually go with some version of "Black Knight Bitter" when I brew it, but I really enjoyed serving it as "Eclipse Dark Ale" at the eclipse gathering in my back yard 2017.

5 1/2 gal. water
4 1/2 lb. Munton's dark DME
1/2 lb. black malt (you could consider Carafa II here)
2 tsp. gypsum
1 1/2 oz Perle (BOIL) 11.1 HBU adjusted
1/2 oz. Tettanger (FLAVOR)
1/4 oz. Cascade and 3/4 oz. Tettanger (AROMA)
1 Nottingham ale yeast

Dissolve 2 1/4 lbs. DME in 1/2 gal. water for late addition
Dissolve 2 1/4 lbs. DME in 1 gal. water for boil, begin heating
Add 2 tsp. gypsum to heating boil water
Steep grains in 1/2 gal. water for 30 min at 150-160 F
Strain into boil kettle, bring to boil, add boil hops
30 min. boil
10 min. flavor hops
0 min. add late addition and aroma hops
Cover and move to sink for water bath cool down
Pour into fermenter and top to 5 gal. with chilled water

HBU 10.1 - 10% for 30 min. boil + 20% for late addition

View attachment 752723

Recipe looks great. First thing I thought of when you said you use an ale yeast for, traditionally, a lager recipe was "Nottingham at 60 degrees F." That might be a happy medium.

 

[D.B.Moody]

First thing I thought of when you said you use an ale yeast . . . was "Nottingham at 60 degrees F."

Or, in my fermentation chamber, more like about 66 F ambient.

As you can see, I do the primary fermentation on the floor, where it's cooler, and the secondary up on a work bench where it's warmer.

 

[JesterMage]

Got to try my latest brew this weekend and couldn't be happier. By far my best batch yet and by far the simplest brew I've ever done.

This looks like a nice one. Simple and a lighter beer. Everything I have right now is a dark beer and I need one that is not so heavy

 

[D.B.Moody]

I brewed a favorite recipe today. I brewed "Edmond's," the brew at post #1 from about a year ago adjusted to my now standard 30 minute boil and late addition of half of the extract. I am also taking the recommendation of @duncan_disorderly to try Verdant yeast which I have never used before. Verdant was also praised by @Miraculix elsewhere.

5 1/2 gal. water
5 lbs. Briess pale DME (I usually use Munton's light DME for this)
1/2 lb. 40L and 1/4 lb 60L crystal malt (I usually use just 40L for this)
1Tbsp gypsum
1/4 tsp. Irish moss
1 oz. Fuggles alpha 4.7 and 1/2 oz East Kent Goldings alpha 4.4 (BOIL) 7.6 HBU adjusted
1/2 oz. East Kent Goldings (FLAVOR)
1 oz. East Kent Goldings (AROMA)
1 Verdant ale yeast

Dissolve 2 1/2 lb. DME in 1/2 gal. of water for late addition
Dissolve 2 1/2 lb. DME in 1 gal. water for the boil, add gypsum, begin heating
Steep grains in 1/2 gal. water for 30 min. at 150-160 F
Strain into boil kettle, bring to boil, add boil hops
30 min. boil
10 min. flavor hops
5 min. Irish moss
0 min. add late addition and aroma hops
Cool in sink bath before pouring into fermenter
Top to 5 gal. with chilled water, pitch at 70 F

6.9 HBUs are adjusted -10% for 30 min. boil and +20% for late addition

 

[ncbrewer]

1Tbsp gypsum

That seems like a lot of gypsum. How did you arrive at that amount - trial and error, or software? And what affect do you think you get from it?

 

[duncan_disorderly]

I brewed a favorite recipe today. I brewed "Edmond's," the brew at post #1 from about a year ago adjusted to my now standard 30 minute boil and late addition of half of the extract. I am also taking the recommendation of @duncan_disorderly to try Verdant yeast which I have never used before Verdant was also praised by @Miraculix elsewhere.

5 1/2 gal. water
5 lbs. Briess pale DME (I usually used Munton's light DME for this)
1/2 lb. 40L and 1/4 lb 60L crystal malt (I usually use just 40L for this)
1Tbsp gypsum
1/4 tsp. Irish moss
1 oz. Fuggles alpha 4.7 and 1/2 oz East Kent Goldings alpha 4.4 (BOIL) 7.6 HBU adjusted
1/2 oz. East Kent Goldings (FLAVOR)
1 oz. East Kent Goldings (AROMA)
1 Verdant ale yeast

Dissolve 2 1/2 lb. DME in 1/2 gal. of water for late addition
Dissolve 2 1/2 gal. DME in 1 gal. waterer boil, add gypsum, begin heating
Steep grains in 1/2 gal. water for 30 min. at 150-160 F
Strain into boil kettle, bring to boil, add boil hops
30 min. boil
10 min. flavor hops
5 min. Irish moss
0 min. add late addition and aroma hops
Cool in sink bath before pouring into fermenter
Top to 5 gal. with chilled water, pitch at 70 F

6.9 HBUs are adjusted -10% for 30 min. boil and +20% for late addition

View attachment 755069

I hope it works out for you.

Prepare yourself for a big creamy krausen. Easily cropped and stored in the fridge, if you are that way inclined.

 

[D.B.Moody]

That seems like a lot of gypsum. How did you arrive at that amount - trial and error, or software? And what affect do you think you get from it?

The recipe is based on Charlie Papazian's "Jack Union's Classic Pale Ale," an all grain recipe that called for 2 tablespoons of gypsum. I first brewed my version in 1996 using 2 teaspoons instead of tablespoons, but over the years about half my batches of this have used 1 tablespoon. The gypsum seems to help bring out the hops.
I learned to brew with Charlie Papazian's books The New Complete Joy of Home Brewing and The Home Brewer's Companion. He seems to have been a fan of gypsum. It may have influenced my tastes.
I do not know my water chemistry. I filter my tap water to get rid of chlorine, but it removes other stuff as well. This may effect my preferences.
So the answer is trial and error. I use no software in my brewing.

 

[DBhomebrew]

The recipe is based on Charlie Papazian's "Jack Union's Classic Pale Ale," an all grain recipe that called for 2 tablespoons of gypsum. I first brewed my version in 1996 using 2 teaspoons instead of tablespoons, but over the years about half my batches of this have used 1 tablespoon. The gypsum seems to help bring out the hops.
I learned to brew with Charlie Papazian's books The New Complete Joy of Home Brewing and The Home Brewer's Companion. He seems to have been a fan of gypsum It may have been influenced my tastes.
I do not know my water chemistry. I filter my tap water to get rid of chlorine, but it removes other stuff as well. This may effect my preferences.

If your water is anything like mine (we're a few miles apart) it's got practically nothing in it for the filter to strip. For the beer I just brewed I added 6g gypsum plus some CaCl and NaCl. For a British style, it's still rather light in minerals.

 

[D.B.Moody]

If your water is anything like mine (we're a few miles apart) it's got practically nothing in it for the filter to strip..

I agree. I filter to get rid of chlorine. I add gypsum to a fair number of my recipes. I never advanced beyond that.

 

[D.B.Moody]

I brewed a favorite recipe today. Today I brewed "Edme Bock" which is based on a recipe I assume was written by Edme to sell malt extract and yeast. First they quit making malt extract, and then they gave up the yeast. Fermentis picked up the yeast and at first marketed S33 as the Edme strain. I still use S33 yeast on this dark ale, which, if course, isn't really a bock. About half the time I label this beer "Old Goat Bock" as I will this time:

5 1/2 gal. water
3 lbs. Briess amber DME and 3 lbs. Munton's dark DME (I usually use light instead of amber, and I usually match the extract producers.)
1/2 lb. 60L crystal malt
3 1/2 oz. Tettnang alpha 2.3 (BOIL) 8.9 HBU adjusted
1/2 oz. Hallertau Mittelfruh (FLAVOR)
1/2 oz. Hallertau Mittelfruh (AROMA)
1 S33 ale yeast

Dissolve 3 lbs. DME in 1/2 gal. water for late addition
Dissolve 3 lbs. DME in 1 gal. water for boil, begin heating
Steep grains in 1/2 gal. water for 30 min. at 150-160 F
Strain into boil kettle, bring to boil, add boil hops
30 min. boil
10 min. add flavor hops
0 mon. add late addition and aroma hops
Cool in sink bath before pouring into fermenter
Top to 5 gal. with chilled water, pitch at 70 F

8.1 HBUs are adjusted -10% for 30 min. boil and +20% for the late addition

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

Bottling a "Moose Drool" inspired Brown Ale that I brewed a couple of weeks ago. I went back to the CYBI related information to "reset" the recipe. Then I made a couple of changes .

1.5 gal batch.
24 oz Muntons Light DME, 4 oz sugar, 4 oz English Crystal 75, 1.5 oz Chocolate.
7 g Chinook (12.7) @ 30, 7 g Golding (6.2) @ 15, 4 g Willamette @ 0, 4 g Liberty @ 0
Notthingham yeast.

Added DME at flame-on; took photos for color samples (eta: color sample was before steeping); heated to 150F-ish, then steeped for 30 minutes in wort. Watched for "hot break" on the way to the start of the boil (which I see with Briess DME), but didn't see it this time (with Muntons DME).

Hydrometer sample had good color and flavor. 1st bottle in a couple of weeks.

 

[D.B.Moody]

I went back to the CYBI related information to "reset" the recipe.
took photos for color samples

What does "CYBI related information" mean? Just a couple of changes indeed!
I can't relate to concern about color in beer because I'm pretty much color blind, but isn't this supposed to be brown?

Please let us know how it turns out relative to the previous Moose Drool you posted. I may have to do another Droll Moose.

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

oops, should have noted that the photos were of the wort before steeping.

CYBI (2009-2012) is a Brewing Network podcast (link).

 

[D.B.Moody]

"These go to eleven." I again brewed "Spinale" whose HBUs are at 11. Every time I brew this I wish I kegged my beer, because then I could point and say "This is Spinale tap." Today's batch has been adjusted to my now standard 30 minute boil and late addition of half the extract.

5 1/2 gal. water
5 Munton's light DME
2 1/4 oz. East Kent Goldings, alpha 4.4 (BOIL) 11 HBU adjusted
1/2 oz. East Kent Goldings (FLAVOR)
3/4oz. East Kent Goldings (AROMA)
1 Nottingham ale yeast

Dissolve 2 1/2 lbs. DME in 1/2 gal. water for late addition
Dissolve 2 1/2 lbs. DME in 1 1/2 gal. water for the boil
30 min. boil
10 min. flavor hops
0 min. add late addition and aroma hops, cover kettle
Cool in sink bath before pouring onto fermenter
Top to 5 gal., pitch at 70 F

HBUs are adjusted -10% for a 30 min. boil and + 20% for the late addition.

 

[BeerAndTele]

"These go to eleven." I again brewed "Spinale" whose HBUs are at 11. Every time I brew this I wish I kegged my beer, because then I could point and say "This is Spinale tap." Today's batch has been adjusted to my now standard 30 minute boil and late addition of half the extract.

5 1/2 gal. water
5 Munton's light DME
2 1/4 oz. East Kent Goldings, alpha 4.4 (BOIL) 11 HBU adjusted
1/2 oz. East Kent Goldings (FLAVOR)
3/4oz. East Kent Goldings (AROMA)
1 Nottingham ale yeast

Dissolve 2 1/2 lbs. DME in 1/2 gal. water for late addition
Dissolve 2 1/2 lbs. DME in 1 1/2 gal. water for the boil
30 min. boil
10 min. flavor hops
0 min. add late addition and aroma hops, cover kettle
Cool in sink bath before pouring onto fermenter
Top to 5 gal., pitch at 70 F

HBUs are adjusted -10% for a 30 min. boil and + 20% for the late addition.

View attachment 760857

“I’m sure I’d feel much worse if I weren’t under such heavy sedation.”

 

[JesterMage]

British Bitter

Batch Size: 2.5 gallons (fermenter volume)

STATS:
Original Gravity: 1.061
Final Gravity: 1.018
ABV (standard): 5.59%
IBU (tinseth): 43
SRM (morey): 9.72

FERMENTABLES:
1.5 lb - DME Pilsen Light (39.3%)
1.5 lb - LME Golden Light - (late boil kettle addition) (39.3%)
0.5 lb - Corn Sugar - Dextrose - (late boil kettle addition) (13.1%)

STEEPING GRAINS:
1.5 oz - Medium Crystal (2.5%)
1.5 oz - Pale Chocolate (2.5%)
2.0 oz - Biscuit (3.3%)

HOPS:
0.5 oz - Styrian Goldings, Type: Pellet, AA: 4.5, Use: Boil for 60 min, IBU: 22.4
0.5 oz - Styrian Goldings, Type: Pellet, AA: 4.5, Use: Boil for 30 min, IBU: 17.21
0.5 oz - Styrian Goldings, Type: Pellet, AA: 4.5, Use: Hop Stand for 15 min, IBU: 3.37

YEAST:
CellarScience - English

I did a 60 min boil this time but usually only do a 30 minute. I got a great deal on Styrian Goldings so I tried one hop for all the additions. Next one I brew will be a lower OG since the weather is getting nicer, maybe about 1.045 bring the ABV down a bit. I was pretty happy with this batch. I might add a smidge more biscuit next time and bump up the IBU's. There is very little lingering flavors after each swallow.

 

[JesterMage]

I brewed two beers this weekend. the second was a Belgian Tripel. This is one of my favorites. I did not have any pilsner malt but had tons of distillers malt. If you want to do extract only just dump in some Pilsen LME or DME or Pilsen malt and a bit more biscuit malt and steep it.

Belgian Tripel v.3
Brew Method: Partial Mash
Boil Time: 30 min

STATS:
Original Gravity: 1.087
Final Gravity: 1.011
ABV (standard): 9.841%
IBU (tinseth): 88
SRM (morey): 6.59

FERMENTABLES:
2.0 lb - Cane Sugar - (late boil kettle addition)
2.0 lb - Pale Malt (Golden) DME - (late boil kettle addition)
1.5 lb - Pale Malt (Golden) LME
8.0 oz - Distillers Malt
4.0 oz - Biscuit

HOPS:
2.0 oz - Styrian Goldings, Type: Pellet, AA: 4.3, Use: First Wort, IBU: 58.54
0.8 oz - Tettnanger, Type: Pellet, AA: 3.9, Use: Boil for 30 min, IBU: 19.31
0.8 oz - Saaz (Czech), Type: Pellet, AA: 4.1, Use: Boil for 10 min, IBU: 9.58

OTHER:
.5 tsp Irish Moss

MASH GUIDELINES:
1) Strike, Temp: 158 F, Time: 30 min, Amount: 3 gal

YEAST:
Safbrew - General/Belgian Yeast S-33
Safbrew - Specialty Ale Yeast T-58

My mash instructions don't seem right at all. Not sure what I was trying to do at the time. I am sure it made sense at the time I wrote it down. I must have mashed it right because the OG and ABV% were much higher than I normally hit.

 

[D.B.Moody]

@duncan_disorderly and @Miraculix, I want you to know that my "Edmond's" with Verdant yeast from post #66 is beautiful and tasty. I may have to put Verdant yeast into regular rotation.
I took this picture the other day. You can see the screen through the ale: