What would you say this is? I hate taking readings but I think I need to start doing it after my last beer came out like garbage. Any tips on taking accurate measurements?
http://bit.ly/lNO678
http://bit.ly/lNO678
Hydrometer reading...
- Thread starter detz
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BendBrewer
Well-Known Member
1.0085 assuming the temp is 60.
I suppose I 'should' take hydrometer readings but don't usually do so. I do follow most of the guidelines for brewing, though, like sanitizing, de-chlorinating, boiling, RDWHAHB and such. It's usually pretty good stuff that I end up with.
B
B
Hydrometer readings are important/essential if you want to know your beer's abv. They can be a great tool for managing your fermentation. For beginners, if you are careful about not bottling/kegging before the fermentation is complete, then a hydrometer reading is not something you must do.
I didn't use the hydrometer for my first two brews, because I didn't understand what it was for. Most brewers, I suspect, will eventually want to take hydrometer readings, because it gives you two of the basic parameters of your beer (original and final gravity). It really is a useful tool.
I didn't use the hydrometer for my first two brews, because I didn't understand what it was for. Most brewers, I suspect, will eventually want to take hydrometer readings, because it gives you two of the basic parameters of your beer (original and final gravity). It really is a useful tool.
Its easy, Detz. Fill the tube with wort/beer, put in the hydrometer, leave it on a level service for a few minutes to let any carbonation or bubbles work themselves out, then give the hydrometer a quick spin, when it stops, taking a reading. As I think you already know, you read the scale that tells you the gravity, not the projected abv (that's for wine makers).
Other questions about using hydrometers, just ask!
Also, its hard to tell from the angle of the photo, but I think the reading is 1.007
Is it easier to take the measurement at what ever temperature it is and adjust or try to cool/warm it up and then take it?
I think I just need to write down a cheat-sheet, for example:
If it's 2 notches from the top it's ....
If it's 4 notches from the top it's ....
The whole decimal thing is messing me up for some reason.
I think I just need to write down a cheat-sheet, for example:
If it's 2 notches from the top it's ....
If it's 4 notches from the top it's ....
The whole decimal thing is messing me up for some reason.
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BendBrewer
Well-Known Member
It's best to cool it to temp then take a reading. I use a refractometer on brew day to make sure that my mash went as planned and don't bother with taking readings after that. It's a good thing to learn how to do but not something that is worth sweating about. Especially if doing extract brews and letting it ferment long enough. You can trust things at that point.
a10t2
Well-Known Member
Without knowing some specifics about your hydrometer, no one can say. Is it calibrated from the top or bottom of the meniscus? What's the calibration temperature, and what temp is the sample? It looks like there's quite a bit of bubbling going on - you'd probably need to agitate the sample in order to knock out the CO2 and get an accurate reading.
That said, each line on there is 2 "points", so at the top of the meniscus it's ~1.006 and at the bottom it's ~1.008. As a general rule, I wouldn't try to take a reading that's more than about 15°F from the hydrometer's calibration temperature.
If you're concerned about getting precise final gravities, I think it's worth it to get a narrow-range precision hydrometer. I have this one and can quite easily read it to ±0.0002 SG. http://www.williamsbrewing.com/BOTTLING-HYDROMETER-P529C74.aspx
That said, each line on there is 2 "points", so at the top of the meniscus it's ~1.006 and at the bottom it's ~1.008. As a general rule, I wouldn't try to take a reading that's more than about 15°F from the hydrometer's calibration temperature.
If you're concerned about getting precise final gravities, I think it's worth it to get a narrow-range precision hydrometer. I have this one and can quite easily read it to ±0.0002 SG. http://www.williamsbrewing.com/BOTTLING-HYDROMETER-P529C74.aspx
Maybe these two pictures will help you. The first one shows a reading of about 1.010
This one shows a reading of about 1.020
The marks between those two increments are 0.002 apart, just like a thermometer. So, 1.010, 1.012, 1.014, 1.016, 1.018, and 1.020.
I take readings in the low to mid 60's - after I cool the wort and am getting ready to pitch the yeast and after fermentation. No reason to adjust for temperature, at that point.
BendBrewer
Well-Known Member
Your hydrometer or readings aren't effecting your beer. All you should be using it for is to determine if fermentation has completed before bottling to prevent overcarbonation or bottle bombs. If you leave the beer in the fermenter for 3-4 weeks you don't even need to bother with readings on most beers. If you bottle the day you get the same gravity readings, you are bottling too soon.
Yes, if you were unhappy with your beer, gravity readings would have given you more data to diagnose what happened. You may or may not have been able to restart the fermentation, but at least you would have had some insight into what was going on.
Bend, I agree on this for most beginners, its not something that is necessary or essential.
But . . . . for most brewers who want to continue brewing, I think knowing your final gravity is very good information to have, even if there aren't problems. It can given you insight into your mashing procress, your fermentation management, or strains of yeast. Attenuation is something brewers will want to know about. And its easy to take the reading when you're bottling or kegging.
snowydog
Member
I simply put the hydrometer and the thermometer right in the primary after I finish mixing.
So then I just check progress every couple of days. Might have to pull it and wipe the sludge off on day 4. Mine is the same as the one in the picture so easy to see the green line. I rack over to glass at about 1.015 or lower and let clear for a week before bottling. I try to remember to check before I put the priming sugar in.
So then I just check progress every couple of days. Might have to pull it and wipe the sludge off on day 4. Mine is the same as the one in the picture so easy to see the green line. I rack over to glass at about 1.015 or lower and let clear for a week before bottling. I try to remember to check before I put the priming sugar in.
BendBrewer
Well-Known Member
Agreed, but for us boring guys that brew the same 3 beers and always use the same yeast, you learn to just trust the process. Definitely not saying the OP shouldn't learn the process, he should. But he shouldn't worry a ton about it or expect to find his problems causing 'garbage beer' by learning how to read an instrument.
Just wanted to point out that this is not what is wrong with the beer. I would be looking into sanitation and fermentation temp control if one is making 'garbage beer'. It's not the hydrometer.
Just wanted to point out that this is not what is wrong with the beer. I would be looking into sanitation and fermentation temp control if one is making 'garbage beer'. It's not the hydrometer.
100% agreed. The hydrometer reading may (or may not) give insight into what the problem with the beer was, but it was not the problem itself. Cheers!
