How to read the Hydrometer

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slider09

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Hi there,

I am after some advice on how to read the hydrometer please.

I am brewing a "Festival World Beer Kit - New Zealand Pilsner". I have had it in the primary bucket for 11 days now. The instructions say "Do not bottle until the airlock has stopped bubbling and the S.G. reading is stable for 48 hours at or below 1.008". I have just taken a reading and it is 1.010.

Now logic tells me that this is above 1.008, am I correct?

Do I need to leave in the bucket until it reaches 1.007 or under?

Thank you.
 
yes, its currently higher/above 1.008.

but more importantly, dont take those FGs as word of law. They are just estimations and many other factors (which you have control over and some you dont) go into what determines the FG. That is just an estimation. As long as you get within a few points you know that nothing went out of whack. It may very well be done at 1.010
 
Not necessarily. Wait a few days and test again. If it's still at 1.010 after like 3 or 4 days, then it's stable. If it is below 1.010, wait a few more days and test again. You want the readings to be the same a few days apart, that will tell you if it's done or not. It might not get down to 1.008 and that's fine, as long as the gravity is stable.
 
You are correct that 1.010 is greater than 1.008.

According to what you quoted you do not need to wait until it reaches 1.007, if it is AT 1.008 OR lower for two days it is ready.
 
1.010 is above 1.008

But the figure for final gravity (FG) is really just a guide and will be affected by lots of variables.

The important thing to do is not to bottle the beer until fermentation has stopped. If bottling occurs and fermentation is still ongoing, the build up of CO2 pressure in th ebottle can cause it to explode and/or result in over carbonated beer.

Often times it is recommended to take readings of the gravity 2-3 days apart before bottling. If the reading remains stable your good to bottle.

Other ways to know fermentation is complte are that the beer will clear, the foam on the top of the beer will fall back down and sink along with the now inactive yeast to the bottom of the fermentor.

How long has it been in the fermentor. If your at 2 weeks or more it's almost certainly finished fermenting and wont get lower that 1.010

Edit: What these folks said. I'm slow
 
Today is the 11th day in the primary bucket. The beer is far from clear, there are particles floating.

I'll try again on Friday and see what the reading is then. Just out of interest, do you take out a sample and test that, or put the hydrometer directly in the bucket?

Thanks all for your replies :)
 
Clarity of the beer is not really an indication of fermentation progress. It depends on a number of different factors, but unless you add clarifying chemicals it will probably take many weeks or months to clarify, if it ever does.

Anyway at 11 days the fermentation is likely done. As others have said, the most important thing is that it's stopped changing, not the specific number it stops at. 1.010 is a very standard S.G. I agree with your plan to check again on Friday.
 
Am I correct that the higher the reading the more sugar (hasn't turned to alcohol)

Also read that the bits floating could be the hops, which were added after 5 days.
 
If you cold crash it, those particles will drop to the bottom within a couple of days. You're likely done, but patience is a virtue and will give you clearer beer.
 
Am I correct that the higher the reading the more sugar (hasn't turned to alcohol)

Also read that the bits floating could be the hops, which were added after 5 days.

Yes, a higher final SG means there is a little more sugar left in the beer that has not been fermented. A "high" final gravity would be 1.015 or 1.020 or higher, and would have a sweeter or maltier taste. E.g. barleywines and many Belgian styles have a moderate amount of sugar left in them.

On the other hand a low FG (under ~1.010) would have very little sugar left in it and would taste drier and crisper. E.g. a Kolsch or a dry Irish stout.

If you are curious about typical stats for beer styles, the BJCP publishes a list of guidelines for use in homebrew judging competitions: http://www.bjcp.org/docs/2015_Guidelines_Beer.pdf (obviously you are not bound to brew a style exactly as described in that guide, but at least it will give you a relatively neutral reference point for what a beer style "should" be like).
 
Also be leary of the temperature, I have come to find out that hydrometers are either scaled for 60 degrees or 68 degree (Fahrenheit) if your test is a different temp you might not be 100% accurate
 
Am I correct that the higher the reading the more sugar (hasn't turned to alcohol)

Also read that the bits floating could be the hops, which were added after 5 days.

This is correct. As sugars are converted to alcohol, CO2 escapes, mass is loss and density reduces. (The gravity decreases).

At 11 days and FG 1.010 it is probably done but it is good practice to make sure it's done before packaging using data (repeated stable readings of gravity) in the beginning till your wheelhouse of experience grows and you can judge very accurately from the visual clues that fermentation is over

Depending on the yeast used some beers will ferment in days and clear in a few days more. I ferment in glass vessels so have the luxury of seeing these things. Buckets do not allow this of course.

For your gravity sample take it in the sample jar at the correct temperature (the calibration temp of your hydrometer is written on the label and is usually 60F or 68F). This way your readings are truer and easier to confirm the stability.

Particulate on the beer's surface is usually yeast rafts. Cooling the beer to ~32F is done by some to help clear the beer faster after fermentation is completed.

Calibration temperature in lower right image.
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Measuring gravity
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Disregard all the fluff in the images. The relevant bits are the hydrometer sample.
 
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