How to make AMAZING IPA

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Over-carbonating wouldn't lead to a bittering taste. At least, not that I've ever heard of.
It's not an infection. Guaranteed.

I know all brewers say "I'm so OCD about sanitization", but we are, and for that to be true, it would've had to have been across multiple batches (since this has been a reoccurring problem).
I also have a kitchen lab I use for yeast propagation/testing, and I'd dare to say that the yeast/fermentation side of things is my strong suit in brewing. (whereas the water chem is obviously my weakest point, and likely to be why the beer is suffering)
We have not had any (unintentional) infections to date. *knocks on wood*

Carbonic Bite

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=277573
 
^interesting. Thank you.

So another thing I noticed...
In the last 2 batches I've brewed, when I am transferring the wort from MLT to BK, I've held the hose over a mesh strainer.
I suspected grain particles in the BK creating harshness and astringency, and yep...
Definitely noticed about a handful of grain crap got collected in the strainer each time!

Guessing this had something to do with it.

Kegging the IPA today. Will post results once it's carbonated
 
Last IPA trial was:

11# Pils
5 oz. C40
5 oz. Carapils
and 1# dextrose solution added to primary after 24 hours

pinch of columbus @ 60 (literally a pinch)
pinch of each: Simcoe, Centennial, Amarillo @ 30
0.5 oz Simcoe, 1 oz Centennial, 1.5 oz Amarillo @ 10
1 oz Simcoe, 1 oz Centennial, 1.5 oz Amarillo @ whirlpool (I start whirlpooling and wait until it hits around 170 F to add the hops, then let them steep for a good 20 mins or so - but I have tried doing this where I just throw them in at knockout too)

Dry hop with 2 oz simcoe, 2.5 oz centennial, 2.5 oz amarillo for 6 days

yeast was US-05, full cake from a previous beer, 3rd generation (clean beers, low abv)

Mash was 148 for 90 min
batch sparge
PH 5.9-6.0 (oops)

water: 2.5 g gypsum, 1g CaCl2, 1g MgSO4
use 1 campden tab and 1 tbsp yeast energizer at 10 left in boil

SG 1.050 (w/o dextrose)
FG 1.008

This beer came out bitter. The dryness was where I wanted. I'll be trying another sample today to see how the dry hop went.

We have a DIY hop-spider that sits over the boil kettle with the paint strainer bag down in the wort. All hops are added to the bag at the listed times

Sorry if this was already mentioned, but I didn't see it - I see you're using quite a bit of Amarillo. I recall reading that one year (2013?) most of the Amarillo produced was significantly more grassy than in other years. If you're using Amarillo from that crop year, it could explain some of your issue.
 
^ did an all Amarillo 100% Brett pale last weekend. I'll let ya know how it turns out!


2 questions for everybody:

Has anyone used the Conan knockoff strains from gigayeast or yeast bay? Thoughts?

And what psi/how long do you guys force carb for?
All the calcs I used said 14 psi, since our freezer is 4 C. But none of them say how long...?

Blasting it w 30 psi for a couple days hasn't worked great for us in the past.
 
My two cents would be:
Ditch columbus to get rid of the dank bong water flavour.
Also, citra is great, like really great; Just don't use it for bittering or anything before 20min mark, you might get cat piss/gooseberry flavours/aroma..
 
Just pulled the second round of dry hopping from my imperial red. Over the top aroma and taste. Haven't made a beer this hoppy in a while. Really does compare to great commercial examples.

DH1: Comet/Galaxy
DH2: Mosaic/Citra
 
And what psi/how long do you guys force carb for?

All the calcs I used said 14 psi, since our freezer is 4 C. But none of them say how long...?



Blasting it w 30 psi for a couple days hasn't worked great for us in the past.


I was listening to a brew strong episode recently that discussed this. JZ advocates for setting your psi @ whatever (14 in your case) and leaving the keg in the kegerator to cool and carb for a week. He said that is the most consistent way to carb. You'll get a little more carb during week 2 but it will be ready to drink after 1.
 
The IPA I am currently brewing is a far step ahead in flavor and aroma than my previous two... But I did a lot of new things this time around:

1.) First Wort Hop
2.) Hop Stand at 160-170F
3.) Oxygenate with pure O2
4.) Water adjustment (gypsum, acids, etc...)

The hydro samples are just incredible... Aroma coming out of the airlock since the dry hopping is just crazy juicy. My previous IPA's were delicious, but not the same level of complexity and aroma this one is showing signs of. I am beyond ecstatic to bottle this one and see how it is in two weeks... All the little techniques do improve the beer considerably, that's for sure. Just based on the samples so far, I don't think I will do an IPA without the first wort hopping or hop-stand.
 
@StopTakingMyUsername - I have used the gigayeast conan strain. Not very impressed. Didn't really notice any difference over using Cali yeast or US-05. I think I have used it twice now. I am going to give it another go for my next IPA.
 
Just pulled the second round of dry hopping from my imperial red. Over the top aroma and taste. Haven't made a beer this hoppy in a while. Really does compare to great commercial examples.

DH1: Comet/Galaxy
DH2: Mosaic/Citra

You think DH contributed to taste? I do. Just want a confirmation before I scale back late additions and hit DH hard (8oz 5G) on next IPA.
 
I was listening to a brew strong episode recently that discussed this. JZ advocates for setting your psi @ whatever (14 in your case) and leaving the keg in the kegerator to cool and carb for a week. He said that is the most consistent way to carb. You'll get a little more carb during week 2 but it will be ready to drink after 1.

Thanks... do you have a link, or remember which episode? I'd love to get more input on this.
We just force carb cause we're impatient haha :)
but like I said, it hasn't worked out great for us.

@StopTakingMyUsername - I have used the gigayeast conan strain. Not very impressed. Didn't really notice any difference over using Cali yeast or US-05. I think I have used it twice now. I am going to give it another go for my next IPA.

Really?
I've heard a lot of people say that it throws off a lot of nice stone fruit ester, and the only real issue is the lack of attenuation in the 1st gen.
Thank you for the feedback.
 
^ did an all Amarillo 100% Brett pale last weekend. I'll let ya know how it turns out!


2 questions for everybody:

Has anyone used the Conan knockoff strains from gigayeast or yeast bay? Thoughts?

And what psi/how long do you guys force carb for?
All the calcs I used said 14 psi, since our freezer is 4 C. But none of them say how long...?

Blasting it w 30 psi for a couple days hasn't worked great for us in the past.

Ive only used the Omega and Gigayeast versions myself but they are identical IMO. Ive gone over 10 generations with both with fantastic results. The attenuation gets better as it goes. I got ~83% on my last DIPA

To force carb I have 2 regulators and 2 tanks. One on my kegerator for serving and the other to purge and sort of "pre-carb" kegs. I fill the keg, purge it and rock it back and forth until I stop hearing CO2 going into solution. I then have them sitting at room temp at 35psi while waiting for a tap to open. Put them in the fridge, purge, connect to my other tank at ~12psi, and 24hrs later, its 90% carbed
 
I skipped the middle 5-6 pages but, @StopTakingMyUsername, have you tasted a sample prior to dry hop to see if it has that grassy/bitterness?

I brew very much like you (minimal bitterness charge, tons of hop bursting and tons of dry hopping); averaging about 24oz hops per 10gal batch. I can't fix my dry hop either, and am getting very similar 'grassiness' that you are. I believe (2) things are at play; 1) temp at dry hop and 2) hop variety.

My last grassy batch tasted great before dry hopping with heavy charges of galaxy and citra. Afterwards, I almost couldn't drink it. My dry hop was broken up into (2) charges in primary and then keg hopped. But my latest IPA was brewed the same way but dry hopped a little cooler (65°F, I believe) and only citra. It tastes much better. So I'm thinking either the galaxy hop, dry hopping around 70°F, or both caused my grassiness. I've experienced it with other combos in the past. I'm just trying to narrow down what I like/don't like so I know what to avoid.

To your latest questions. I set my keg at 40psi for 24hrs and then drop it to serving pressure. It's 'ready' to drink after a day but tastes better after 4-5 days.

I only use TYB VT Ale yeast for IPAs now. It is much more in that juicy IPA style that I enjoy most.
 
@mbbransc - did you taste it before kegging it? I have had success leaving keg hops in for the entire life of the keg, but I always use whole cone hops in the keg. Ive heard of people complaining about grassy flavors from pellets.

I think its some random thing causing the issue or maybe you are sensitive to certain hop compounds. It is certainly possible to use more hops than that without grassy flavors. I have a 23oz / 5gal DIPA on tap right now that i cant get the slightest hint of grassy flavors. I think the key is mostly to not load up on typical "IPA" hops
 
@m00ps I did taste prior to dry hop. That's why I asked STMUN if he did. That's how I know my grassiness came from the dry hop. I leave my keg hops in for the duration but don't think that causes any grassiness. I believe the grassiness fades over time but by the time it's gone, the aroma has faded quite a bit too.

I tend to believe it's certain hops and temps. Or maybe, I'm just getting crappy homebrew hops opposed to better brewery hops. Like I said, the citra dry hop was great. The galaxy and citra was not. So I assume my galaxy helped attribute some grassiness.
 
the newer harvests of galaxy i have found to be very resinous. I remember it originally being much more mango but now even a few 100% galaxy commerical IPAs are like all dank and resin
 
You think DH contributed to taste? I do. Just want a confirmation before I scale back late additions and hit DH hard (8oz 5G) on next IPA.


Yes and no. I just double dry hop now with a decent amount of late additions and a flameout/whirlpool. Overall, the system works. I've tried every way and this work best for me. Had a few less than commercial level results. But I've also had some over the top amazing results
 
@mbbransc - did you taste it before kegging it? I have had success leaving keg hops in for the entire life of the keg, but I always use whole cone hops in the keg. Ive heard of people complaining about grassy flavors from pellets.

I think its some random thing causing the issue or maybe you are sensitive to certain hop compounds. It is certainly possible to use more hops than that without grassy flavors. I have a 23oz / 5gal DIPA on tap right now that i cant get the slightest hint of grassy flavors. I think the key is mostly to not load up on typical "IPA" hops
Have you done an IBU calc with 23 ozs of hops? I am having a hard time with it. I understand how it works, but it always seems like the numbers are real high. The last ipa I brewed had a 45-50 IBU (wish it had more), but it tastes like it has maybe 30 ibus. A 5 gallon batch with 23ozs of hops seems like it would be atleast a 150-200+ IBU beer..?

Currently almost done with my reciepe. 2oz mash hop, 1 oz FWH, 1oz @ 60, 2oz @ 10, 2oz @ 5. IBU calc says I should be in the neighborhood of 104-138. Is this a solid guess, or will it be lower than, say, 90 IBUs? I also plan to try hop standing/whirpooling (is there a difference?) for the first time this batch. Still trying to figure out how to calc those IBUs..
 
Sounds like you better add an IPA in with your stout so I can test it out :D

I'm about to dry hop my latest ipa. I'll have to send you a couple when it's done. Used Wyeast 1450 for the first time in quite a while so I'm curious to see how it affects mouth feel. Forced ferment test shows it should finish at 1.010 from 1.066
 
Thanks... do you have a link, or remember which episode? I'd love to get more input on this.

We just force carb cause we're impatient haha :)

but like I said, it hasn't worked out great for us.


I believe it was the carbonation episode. I just listen to it through the podcast so I don't have a link. A lot of people seem to have luck with force carbing but I have had trouble getting it consistently right so I just go the patient route since listening to that.
 
I skipped the middle 5-6 pages but, @StopTakingMyUsername, have you tasted a sample prior to dry hop to see if it has that grassy/bitterness?

I brew very much like you (minimal bitterness charge, tons of hop bursting and tons of dry hopping); averaging about 24oz hops per 10gal batch. I can't fix my dry hop either, and am getting very similar 'grassiness' that you are. I believe (2) things are at play; 1) temp at dry hop and 2) hop variety.

My last grassy batch tasted great before dry hopping with heavy charges of galaxy and citra. Afterwards, I almost couldn't drink it. My dry hop was broken up into (2) charges in primary and then keg hopped. But my latest IPA was brewed the same way but dry hopped a little cooler (65°F, I believe) and only citra. It tastes much better. So I'm thinking either the galaxy hop, dry hopping around 70°F, or both caused my grassiness. I've experienced it with other combos in the past. I'm just trying to narrow down what I like/don't like so I know what to avoid.

To your latest questions. I set my keg at 40psi for 24hrs and then drop it to serving pressure. It's 'ready' to drink after a day but tastes better after 4-5 days.

I only use TYB VT Ale yeast for IPAs now. It is much more in that juicy IPA style that I enjoy most.

I have. Now that you mention it, the hydrometer samples tasted lightly bitter as well. I guess I just expected the fermentation / dry hopping to mask it or change it into less.

The recipe I did a few pages back only had 0.25 oz magnum at 30, and then the rest was citra at 20, 10, and a whirlpool addition for a half hour. 5 day dry hop.
It's nice and juicy with no real bitter.
The magnum contributed kind of a light earthiness from the sample I pulled, but going forward I'd probably skip FWH/60/etc and just add the hops at 10 mins and then a huge whirlpool and dry hop.

The temperature varies, as they just sit in the bucket in my ferm chamber with whatever else is fermenting at the time. I may need to adjust temp up or down to meet the temp range for a new beer that's undergoing fermentation.

I've read that dry hop works better at room temp+ though...
Sounds like you better add an IPA in with your stout so I can test it out :D

I'm about to dry hop my latest ipa. I'll have to send you a couple when it's done. Used Wyeast 1450 for the first time in quite a while so I'm curious to see how it affects mouth feel. Forced ferment test shows it should finish at 1.010 from 1.066

Well, the stout won't carbonate in the bottle. Even dosed it with champagne yeast, and a week later, still nothing. So I dunno what to do.
I'm going to toss the bottles in the ferm chamber at 70 F and see if that kicks anything up. If not, I will have to dump it... which is really heartbreaking because its really good.
I still have that split half of the batch that I aged on oak, bourbon, and vanilla. I'm thinking I'll probably just rack that to a keg and force carbonate, since I'm paranoid of risking it on the bottles again.

Definitely down to try some more of your IPA though!!

Have you done an IBU calc with 23 ozs of hops? I am having a hard time with it. I understand how it works, but it always seems like the numbers are real high. The last ipa I brewed had a 45-50 IBU (wish it had more), but it tastes like it has maybe 30 ibus. A 5 gallon batch with 23ozs of hops seems like it would be atleast a 150-200+ IBU beer..?

Currently almost done with my reciepe. 2oz mash hop, 1 oz FWH, 1oz @ 60, 2oz @ 10, 2oz @ 5. IBU calc says I should be in the neighborhood of 104-138. Is this a solid guess, or will it be lower than, say, 90 IBUs? I also plan to try hop standing/whirpooling (is there a difference?) for the first time this batch. Still trying to figure out how to calc those IBUs..

That sounds like it would be insanely bitter to me. all those early additions...
but I dunno, I'm definitely no pro when it comes to IPAs
Curious how it turns out!

I never bothered calculating IBU though - adding the same amount of hops at the 60 versus at the 10 contributes wildly different numbers of IBU, and two wildly different beers. Plus, I don't like "bitter", so I've always just viewed it as "well, if it doesnt taste bitter I'm good..." :)
 
^dont dump it! Those bottles would be perfect for topping up a barrel if you decide to age something.

keep after the IPA quest - it can get frustrating but the more you brew, the better you get. My latest 2 dipa's have been less than impressive as well. went way overboard w/the extract.
 
Yeah thats nearly equivalent to 4oz of 60min additions. That would be hoppier than my palate could take.

On the subject of my DIPA with a large amount of late hops I'll just say this - I had two wine drinkers (girls if that matters) trying it last night and they loved it. Its not bitter, its hoppy. People need to start separating the two terms. I have repeatedly been able to use upwards of a pound of hops for a 5gal recipe and had dangerously drinkable results
 
I have also never bothered calculating IBUs for my IPAs. The software we have doesnt approximate hopstand well, which is where I am certain I get 50% or more of my bitterness from. Also, apart from hop harvest year, storage, degradation, boil strength, etc.... So much else goes into the final perceived bitterness on your palate
 
So great news!
There was no lingering bitter to this most recent recipe. I didn't use any 60 min addition, only a tiny pinch of magnum at 30, and then Citra at 10, whirlpool, and dry hop.
I only had 2.5 oz of citra left for the dry hop, which gives some aromatics for sure, but it's not really "in-your-face" like I prefer.
(carbonation came out great, too)


only downside is there's a bit of a lingering sweetness on the back end that I'm not too fond of... but I'm guessing that even a tiny bit of crystal (think we used 8 oz of 40 or 50 in this recipe) will show through with such a minimalist grain bill.

Going forward I'd probably use less crystal malt, and I think we'd be in the ballpark!
 
Nice!

Yeah I agree about the crystal. I stopped using any of it early on in my IPAs. Its just not to my tastes. I really feel it detracts from the pungent hop character im shooting for.

I just tapped a session IPA that I hopstanded with El dorado, then added a bunch of jolly rancher candies. Its awesome, its got the flavor, but all of the sweetness fermented out
 
Our Brett amarillo pale is coming out pretty damn good too!
Pils/wheat/vienna/acid/carapils grain bill - NO crystal, and it doesn't have that gross lingering sweet that the last IPA had
no 60 min bittering hops, small additions at 20 and 10, then ~3 oz whirlpool from 180 F down to 140 F for about 40-50 min.
Has a nice light, bright hoppiness to it - PRE dry hop! Brett is subdued and not overly farmy either. Really excited for this one!
Dry hopping with 3-4 oz Amarillo for 5 days, then will crash and keg carb.



Brewed an all Azacca IPA today as well.
Pils/maris otter/acid/carapils and around 4 oz C20 (hope this doesnt come off sweet). Will add 0.5 lb dextrose in a couple days.
Hopped w 1 oz at 10 min, 3 oz whirlpool as described above. Will dry hop with 4 oz Azacca for 5 days, crash, force carb.
Trying out Wyeast London III as well. We'll see how that goes.

I think we're getting it! I'll report back on how these two come out after carbing.

Lessons learned:
NO 60 min bittering.
RO/DI water with salts to build desired hop/flavor profile
Calibrate meter and watch mash PH (5.3 - 5.6)
Pump wort to boil kettle through a mesh filter to catch grain particles
Sparge at 168 F and no higher
Move the majority of hop additions to whirlpool at 180 F and below for a long steep
Light, simple grain bills - no (or very minimal 2-3% of 20 L max) crystal additions
Pils > 2row

Thank you so far to everyone who has helped ITT.
:mug:
 
The first time i got the bitterness right in an IPA:

- kegged it instead of bottling

i don't know how to describe it yet, but i feel like i oftentimes get this odd flavoring that develops after a couple weeks of bottle carb'ing when I do IPA's (and also after having spent some fridge time). I can't say that I was unhappy with the taste straight out of the fermenter, they've been pretty good at that stage. not knowing where else to turn, i've simply attributed the flavor to yeast activity in the bottle, but i could be wrong. my latest IPA smells great however, but just has that subtle funk intertwined with the flavor. all except 1 recipe was made using 1 pack of dry yeast (us-05 or notty). the other was using WY1272 and a decent size starter, and i'm not sure i recall having the same problem with that one. made me wonder if 1 pack dry isn't enough. i've never gone above 1.059 SG. (i wish they sold 5.5 gram packs of dry yeast, because i can't handle 10 gal batches right now).

i always try to carefully decant into a glass too, but here's the really weird thing, it's more like an outlier. I made a german lager with 2 packs W34/70 (bottle carb'ed and did not separate beer from the yeast, i called it a kellerbier :p). that beer actually tastes slamming with the yeast mixed in, it's the only time i've found myself swirling a bottle of homebrew rather than carefully watching for yeast floating into the neck while pouring.

i'm not hijacking the thread btw, i was just wondering if others are familiar with what i'm trying to describe, and if perhaps it is a factor in the OP's issue.
 
Could be. Often times there is a compromise over aging/cold crashing for freshness. A yeasty side effect can be common. I suggest an early cold crash, a few more days to return to room temp, then begin dry hopping.

You can also rouse the yeast if you dry hop and it stirs the bottom. Especially if you bag the hops
 
Follow up on recent Azacca IPA with London III yeast...

Love this strain. Was pretty confused when I took a sample around 5 days into fermentation, as the gravity read 1.020. But when I tasted it, it was amazing... fruity, juicy, smooth like a lot of the more "orange juice" IPAs from NE.
I turned the heat up a degree or two and roused the yeast a little. After a few more days the gravity is down to 1.011!
I was actually more into the taste at 1.020 than I am with it drier, but it's still pretty good.

Going forward, I'll continue using this strain, and might intentionally rack off the yeast when it hits 1.016-1.018

Sweet spot for dry hopping has been ~3 oz, give or take a half oz.
Been letting the beers sit for a good 2 weeks - 1 to ferment, 1 to dry hop (or at least 5-6 days dry hop).

Much better results.

Also, ditching US05. The London ale strains (or brett) have given muuuuuch better results!
 
was your brett IPA all brett or a mixed fermentation? If it was mixed, you may want to hold off on bottling that one...
 
was your brett IPA all brett or a mixed fermentation? If it was mixed, you may want to hold off on bottling that one...

All brett. Brux starter + Casey Brett Loves Citra dregs stepped up.
There may be some sacch in that mix, but it's a very small fraction if so. Kegged that one up, no bottling.
Leaning towards just kegging all IPA/pales.

Simply out of curiosity, have your beers been oddly cloudy since doing this?

Nope! Still very clean.
I'll try to get a pic if I remember
 
Speaking of cloudy:

uLBeW9z.jpg



100% Brett Amarillo pale.

Really good, IMO. a lot of that rustic brett "sweat" vibe, but rounded out by the citrusey amarillo..
Just enough dry hop in the nose and flavor. no bitterness. no astringency.

and clearly i dont know how to take normal sized pics lol
 
hmm so that was the brux + those dregs stepped up? Im guessing it did have a bit of sacch in there because Ive never gotten any appreciable funk from my 100% brett beers. Maybe it was just barely enough to stress the brett and make it produce those flavors like it would in a typical mixed fermentation, but not too much sacch that would cause it to need months to ferment out
 
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