How to control boil?

[sandyabernethy]

I'm using an Auberins 2352 with a 5500 watt element. For us non-engineers, the Auber instructions can be a little hard to decipher.
When I'm setting SV anywhere around 203 - 208, I'm not able to control the boil. Temp climbs right up to 211-212 and boils to beat the band!
Should I be using manual mode? So far, I've not been able to successfully get it into manual, so I'm perplexed.

A little help for an electric newbie would be much appreciated!

-SMA

 

[onthekeg]

Yes, you need to run it in manual mode when you boil.

 

[sandyabernethy]

Thanks for the reply, onthekeg.

I'm setting A-M to 0, then going into Manual mode by hitting the set button and the A/M button, then dialing down my element percentage. No matter what number I set it to, the heat just keeps rising until i'm in a massive boil.
Am I missing something? If I set the percentage to 0, it should turn completely off, right? I'm getting no change on element output.

-sma

 

[P-J]

Go to Auber instruments and read the manual http://auberins.com/images/Manual/SYL-2342.pdf for that PID. Section: 4.2.3 Manual/Automatic mode switch -explains the process. The programming and setup can be a little complex.

I hope this helps you.

P-J

 

[sandyabernethy]

Yup. That's what I've been using for a guide. Have it printed out and highlighted. But I must be missing something. I believe I'm wired correctly.
What about Auto-Tune? Should that be run, you think?

-sma

 

[sandyabernethy]

Finally found the problem. Bad SSR.
I learned my lesson. I did NOT use heat sink compound on between the SSR and the heat sink. I just assumed, since they came together, that they were a complete package.
Wrong.

-sma

 

[BadNewsBrewery]

While the SSR is a good find, I wanted to point out one other thing you said:

What about Auto-Tune? Should that be run, you think?

Yes - you do need to run Auto-Tune. This sets the P/I/D values in the PID to match the conditions in your brew setup. Have everything set up and running the way you would during a brew day (with water, not wort) and run AT. You'll be set to go from then on. Of course, do this AFTER the new SSR (with compound).

-Kevin

 

[ChocolateMaltyBalls]

In addition to the Aubrins stuff, I found Kal's instructions helpful:
http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/control-panel-setup


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

 

[kevreh]

With this pid, it looks like you can enter manual mode and change the % power all with buttons on the pid. ? Nice! To control power on my omega you have to go into submenus.

 

[kal]

With this pid, it looks like you can enter manual mode and change the % power all with buttons on the pid. ? Nice! To control power on my omega you have to go into submenus.

Correct. You use the up/down buttons to change the % while in manual mode.

Yes - you do need to run Auto-Tune. This sets the P/I/D values in the PID to match the conditions in your brew setup. Have everything set up and running the way you would during a brew day (with water, not wort) and run AT. You'll be set to go from then on. Of course, do this AFTER the new SSR (with compound).

If this PID is for the element in the boil kettle where you're only using manual mode, there is no benefit (or need) to auto-tune the PID as you're not using the P/I/D settings at all. Auto-tune is more important in the HOT where the PID runs in automatic mode to 'hold' a specific temp.

Not to confuse the issue but I did actually auto-tune my boil PID too but that's just because unlike most brewers who only use manual mode for the boil, I also use automatic mode too when I do hop stands (where the wort is kept at a specific temp like 170F, 180F or 190F for extended duration after the boil is complete and hops are steeped).

Good luck!

Kal

 

[kevreh]

I just bought and installed the 2352 this week to replace my older omega pid. Man, this thing is sweet. The manual mode makes managing the boil soooo much easier. The direct access keys for manual mode are very nice too (versus drilling down into submenus).