How to add permanent volume markings to a kettle (illustrated)

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I just remeasured are marked out my big kettle, and did a test on my old stainless 5 gallon kettle. That 1/4 tsp salt to 1/4 cup vinegar works like a charm.

Once I can pick up some stencils in the next day or two, I'm doing it up right. Thanks for the how to!

20140303_225009[1].jpg
 
Very cool tutorial. Looks familiar though. Seems like I reddit somewhere else.

I am definitely doing this by the way. Seems much nicer than using a stick. Or guessing =).


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How are you guys marking the kettle in the first place? I assume by measuring and adding water, but what are you using to mark the water line, tape of some sort?
 
Awesome way to mark levels in kettles. I picked up the stencils at Michaels last night. Looking forward to not having to guess volumes anymore.
 
Way to go, I was going to use a punch set on my kettles but have been holding off on doing it that way, as I didn't want the indentations to trap wort material.

Now! I'm going to etch my kettles, awesome way to mark a kettles!

Cheers and Thank You :mug:
 
How are you guys marking the kettle in the first place? I assume by measuring and adding water, but what are you using to mark the water line, tape of some sort?


Yeah I second this question. What are you guys doing to mark where you need to fill it? I know you use water to measure it but then how do you mark that line to then etch it when it's empty and dry?


- ISM NRP
 
Yeah I second this question. What are you guys doing to mark where you need to fill it? I know you use water to measure it but then how do you mark that line to then etch it when it's empty and dry?


- ISM NRP

I don't know how OP did it, but a wax pencil would be a great way to do this. Marks wet and rubs off after you put your tape stencil on.
 
Yeah I second this question. What are you guys doing to mark where you need to fill it? I know you use water to measure it but then how do you mark that line to then etch it when it's empty and dry?


- ISM NRP

I bought a cheap piece of aluminum that I could bend. I put it over my kettle and put in one gallon at a time and marked it. I found each gallon was 4cm. So I just marked it every 4cm, stuck it back in and confirmed it was right. Now I need to mark the kettle and do this process. Much better than hanging the aluminum over the side. By the way, mine is a 10 gallon bayou classic ss pot.

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this info was re-posted on my club's page, and someone replied:

"Hey, just a heads up, there's a chance of corrosion and off-tastes seeping into the beer if you do this. To repair the damage done via the etching, the kettle needs to be soaked in citric acid where it was etched at 150F for 30 minutes. That'll fix it and make it ready for use with no off flavors or corrosion."

any thoughts on this statement?

i just emailed John Palmer asking for his feedback on this technique... he'll have a good answer for us.

UPDATE - reply from Palmer, when asked what he thought of this technique:

I think its great! No the risk of off-flavors is minimal. Yes, you increase the corrosion risk, but for vessels not in constant service it is a minimal risk.
Let me put it this way, as soon as I can scrape up a half hour, I am going to do it to several of my pots!
John
 
this info was re-posted on my club's page, and someone replied:

"Hey, just a heads up, there's a chance of corrosion and off-tastes seeping into the beer if you do this. To repair the damage done via the etching, the kettle needs to be soaked in citric acid where it was etched at 150F for 30 minutes. That'll fix it and make it ready for use with no off flavors or corrosion."

any thoughts on this statement?

i just emailed John Palmer asking for his feedback on this technique... he'll have a good answer for us.

I am not sure why there would be corrosion or off flavors on stainless steel. It isnt coated or anything.

Aluminum you would just have to re-condition/oxidize it by boiling water, so once you do that I think that it would be back to "normal"

Just my 2¢
 
this info was re-posted on my club's page, and someone replied:

"Hey, just a heads up, there's a chance of corrosion and off-tastes seeping into the beer if you do this. To repair the damage done via the etching, the kettle needs to be soaked in citric acid where it was etched at 150F for 30 minutes. That'll fix it and make it ready for use with no off flavors or corrosion."

any thoughts on this statement?

i just emailed John Palmer asking for his feedback on this technique... he'll have a good answer for us.

Meh…I doubt it.

A little Bar Keeper's Friend and a couple minutes and you'll be good as new…with nice markings too!
 
yup, see my original post above for a reply from Palmer. he agrees, risk is very small.

on the other hand, here's another metallurgist who supports using citric acid to repassivate: http://www.reddit.com/r/Homebrewing...k_warning_about_etching_yor_stainless_kettle/

aaaaaaaaaaaand the follow-up from Palmer:

No, it is technically correct. He is quoting the current ASTM procedure for citric acid passivation. But, here's the thing: unless you are filling that vessel with salt water or another highly corrosive substance (bleach water) for an extended period of time, brewing use is not going to cause any level of significant corrosion, and thereby off-flavors.
 
yup, see my original post above for a reply from Palmer. he agrees, risk is very small.

on the other hand, here's another metallurgist who supports using citric acid to repassivate: http://www.reddit.com/r/Homebrewing...k_warning_about_etching_yor_stainless_kettle/

aaaaaaaaaaaand the follow-up from Palmer:

I LOVE the fact that Palmer said he was going to use this technique...
AND the fact that he responded within an hour of you contacting him.

Score one for the good guys...
 
i just emailed John Palmer asking for his feedback on this technique... he'll have a good answer for us.

UPDATE - reply from Palmer, when asked what he thought of this technique:

Quote:
I think its great! No the risk of off-flavors is minimal. Yes, you increase the corrosion risk, but for vessels not in constant service it is a minimal risk.
Let me put it this way, as soon as I can scrape up a half hour, I am going to do it to several of my pots!
John

Wow! what a great guy indeed!
Thanks for sending this to him, I feel honored.
 
Any idea how this would hold up to a scrubbing with BKF or a green scrub pad? Would it just buff out?


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Any idea how this would hold up to a scrubbing with BKF or a green scrub pad? Would it just buff out?


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Considering that you're physically removing metal and creating a kind-of indentation, it should remain permanent. I could see the sheen changing/blending if you scrubbed hard enough and long enough, but the physical indentation will remain.
 
Considering that you're physically removing metal and creating a kind-of indentation, it should remain permanent. I could see the sheen changing/blending if you scrubbed hard enough and long enough, but the physical indentation will remain.

I would say the amount of metal removed by etching is minimal (without actually having done it :D) but compared to the material removed by a green scubby you would, as you said, need to be going at it a long time. I would expected that the marking could be polished out but not by the amount of work done in a standard brew day clean. Even if they were to fade after a years worth of cleaning another 15 minutes of etching would restore them.
 
My 10 Gallon Bayou kettle has stamped graduations on it, but I have a few other kettles I could do this on.


Does this thread need to be stickied?
 
My understanding is that the markings are visible not because of their depth, but because their texture is different from the rest of the kettle so they reflect light differently.
 
My 9 volt didn't have a lot if energy left... will grab a new one tomorrow... This is simply too easy! My 6 year old can't stop playing with this on a piece of scrap... (supervised of course)

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Sub. Scribed. Awesome work man. I love the homebrew crowd...so much cool knowledge being spread around.
 
My 9 volt didn't have a lot if energy left... will grab a new one tomorrow... This is simply too easy! My 6 year old can't stop playing with this on a piece of scrap... (supervised of course)

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You can use a wall wart instead of a battery...
 
Yeah I second this question. What are you guys doing to mark where you need to fill it? I know you use water to measure it but then how do you mark that line to then etch it when it's empty and dry?


- ISM NRP
some of you are over thinking this...the bottom of your number could be the level of the liquid?
 
Great thread! Thanks for sharing!!!
Do you mind if I post this at our sister site Wine Making Talk? The home brewers will love it!
 

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