How to add permanent volume markings to a kettle (illustrated)

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The process as described in this thread works just fine on aluminum, as I mentioned, my etching is deep enough to feel. The dark color of the oxide layer however makes it blend in so there's no visual contrast unless the light is hitting it at just the right angle. Since lighting conditions are limited on the inside of a kettle, and add to that a continuous billow of steam, the etching is all but useless.
 
The process as described in this thread works just fine on aluminum, as I mentioned, my etching is deep enough to feel. The dark color of the oxide layer however makes it blend in so there's no visual contrast unless the light is hitting it at just the right angle. Since lighting conditions are limited on the inside of a kettle, and add to that a continuous billow of steam, the etching is all but useless.

That's a fair review. I can also feel some of my notches, so technically it works.
However, it's nice to have this word of caution for aluminum users in the thread.
 
@ qmax, I have a stupid question. After the first boil where you did obtain the oxidized layer, did you clean the pot and scrub the layer off or use an abrasive cleanser?

I have 2 aluminum pots, 7 gallon and 15 gallon, that after the initial boil, never lost the oxidized layer. I can't see how one boil would oxidize, and the second boil would take it away.
 
The process as described in this thread works just fine on aluminum, as I mentioned, my etching is deep enough to feel. The dark color of the oxide layer however makes it blend in so there's no visual contrast unless the light is hitting it at just the right angle. Since lighting conditions are limited on the inside of a kettle, and add to that a continuous billow of steam, the etching is all but useless.



I read somewhere that DC power creates white frosted etching while AC power does darker etching. Might try a different power source?
 
I read somewhere that DC power creates white frosted etching while AC power does darker etching. Might try a different power source?

Careful with that. AC is potentially more dangerous. You should stay well below 30V in either case.
 
@ qmax, I have a stupid question. After the first boil where you did obtain the oxidized layer, did you clean the pot and scrub the layer off or use an abrasive cleanser?

I have 2 aluminum pots, 7 gallon and 15 gallon, that after the initial boil, never lost the oxidized layer. I can't see how one boil would oxidize, and the second boil would take it away.

That's the funny part, I did not use anything at all; neither do I know how or why it happened. I just boiled plain tap water for the 2nd time to make sure it stays clear and such.
I'm guessing this color might be my new oxide layer because I gave it a 3rd boil 6 hours long and it stayed the same color with clear water in it.

After more searching, I basically found that the color of aluminum oxide can range from bright silvery to black, probably depending on the alloying metals or impurities. Take a look yourself:

screenhunter_03-aug-26-11-59.jpg
 
Interesting. Everything should be ok then.

Can you see your markings at all?

Not enough to make any use of them. I'll look for an AC charger or research more before doing anything. Maybe I'll need a different electrolyte. If I find a solution, I'll post it here.
 
All I can say is AWESOME!!!
I have a 10 gallon Polar Ware pot that is marked in 2 gallon increments. I've been using an old straight edge I found in my pole barn to measure out 6.5 and 7 gallons.

This will definitely be my Friday night project. :ban:
 
I read somewhere that DC power creates white frosted etching while AC power does darker etching. Might try a different power source?


As far as I am aware electrolytic etching only works with DC. In AC the cathode and anode are constantly reversing as are the flow of ions. Result no metal deposited or removed.
 
Etched my kettle yesterday. 1/4 gallon marks as the full gallons are marked on my Megapot. Looks fantastic. Worked really well. Quite a bit more salt than 1/4 tsp needed though. Just added and stirred till I heard the sizzle of the metal.
 
Safety considerations.

This process produces some pretty nasty by poducts. Thought about this as I stuck my head in my BK to get to the lower marks....stopped and put on gloves, respirator, and fired up the shop fan.
 
Finally got around to getting my kettle done after months of having the supplies. Only took about 2 hours. Could have done better, but proud of myself for the first try.

 
Just saw this thread today.. im pretty interested in trying it I practiced on a knife. SWMBO wasnt too excited about my choice in knife but you can see my first attempt on the left and my final try on the right. I think i got the hang of it but i need to find stencils.. i dont have a Michaels or anything like that around here. Just WalMart (which doesnt have them .. i just checked) and Mendards.. are there other stores I can look at?

img_20141226_183817710_hdr-64584.jpg

img_20141226_184638984_hdr-64585.jpg
 
Just saw this thread today.. im pretty interested in trying it I practiced on a knife. SWMBO wasnt too excited about my choice in knife but you can see my first attempt on the left and my final try on the right. I think i got the hang of it but i need to find stencils.. i dont have a Michaels or anything like that around here. Just WalMart (which doesnt have them .. i just checked) and Mendards.. are there other stores I can look at?

Got my stencils on Amazon.
 
Thanks so much for the instructions! Worked like a charm. Takes a lot of anxiety out of brew day when you are doing a 90 minute boil and just hoping that I didn't boil too hard and end up with 4 gallons.

image.jpeg
 
This is awsome. This may have been asked but quite frankly I'm too lazy to read through 54 pages to find it haha. How do you know at what level to put the gallon marks?
 
However, if you build a tiered system for gravity flow, interior marks on your lifted vessels is useless. The other issue is in boil kettles when it's relatively cold outside. The plume of steam that comes from my boil kettle wouldn't let me see the marks anyway.

since this isn't the first post about tiered gravity systems , kettle high up, and not being able to see the internal markings .. i have to ask

hasn't anyone heard of a step stool ? :drunk:



I've been blue printing a brewing bench / multi-tiered gravity system. which is really just gonna be a small wooden platform with 2 steps to a 2'x3' deck so i can put my brewing keggle there, and a mount for my plate chiller, and my brew bucket goes on the floor and gravity drain in a reasonable time.

I did a test of the height / design by stacking 2 tires on their sides and a scrap of plywood. did an extract brew with a grain steep. my result was "i can't see inside well enough" so i slid over a step stool. though my design would have a place for me to stand so i won't need the step stool.

when i get a chance to add one level higher i'll just make a few extra steps and a new standing platform ... or maybe i'll just bring over the taller step stool .

It won't work for every person , in every situation but , nothing does ...
 
I'm totally doing this to all of my 50 liter kegs :D

One question though ..
Don't have a 9 volt battery lying around so can I use a car battery instead :)
Or it's just a tat too much :D
 
I'm totally doing this to all of my 50 liter kegs :D

One question though ..
Don't have a 9 volt battery lying around so can I use a car battery instead :)
Or it's just a tat too much :D

Do not do that! Worst case, you'll rupture the case and send strong acid all over yourself, and start a fire in the process.
 
I'm totally doing this to all of my 50 liter kegs :D

One question though ..
Don't have a 9 volt battery lying around so can I use a car battery instead :)
Or it's just a tat too much :D

If you have an old 12V cell phone charger laying around you could use that.
 
Couple questions. I have been guesstimating and not really stressing volumes for the past few years of brewing. Thinking I should put accurate markings on my BK and see how off I really am.

What are you all using as an accurate 1 Gallon measure? I know I am probably being ridiculous but if I am going to go to the trouble of making sure it is level and marking it I want to be as accurate as I can. Kitchen measuring cup? Filling by weight?

When making marks before etching, how are you doing this? Sharpie? Once again with a retentitive attention to detail in mind on this project drawing a water line on a wet surface is not exactly easy.
 
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