How long do you ferment?

[WissahickonBrew]

We keep it simple and predictable, just like the big boys!

The first 14 days @ the yeast strains recommended temperature range (look it up on the web, it's fascinating and detailed what the yeast producers will recommend)

Then 7 days in the fridge @ 34 degrees to drop out the yeast and clear up the funk. Total is 21 days, works perfect every time!

Can you shorten that? Can you lengthen that? I don't know, maybe? But we've been doing this long enough to ask the question, why dick around? Beer making is a systematic process if you want predictable results. Unless you are going rogue and trying to tweak a recipe, stay the course.

 

[mrgrimm101]

Yes i will be bottling and letting it bottle condition for at least 2 weeks at about 68F. I dont have a setup to cold crash so thats not an option for me currently. The OG was about 1.074 so i wouldnt consider that low. Its been 6 days and i dont think its done..the yeast is still visually active. The airlock has slowed to almost no activity, but the krausen hasnt dropped and the yeast is still swirling around.

I had just figured stepping up the temp for the extra week at a slightly higher temp would help it clear up and finish out, but it sounds like the difference it would make is negligible if anything.

 

[hannibalmdq]

Its been 6 days and i dont think its done..the yeast is still visually active. The airlock has slowed to almost no activity, but the krausen hasnt dropped and the yeast is still swirling around.

Assuming you pitched adequate quantities of health yeast and weren't fermenting well below the listed range, the yeast is likely done or finishing up attenuation. Lots of things affect flocculation, but it's entirely possible that your yeast are mostly done with the active part of fermentation and are just cleaning up and grouping together to floc out. Krausen can stick around long after fermentation is over, in fact, on some strains it can be quiet stubborn. It's not indicative of continued ferementation.

I had just figured stepping up the temp for the extra week at a slightly higher temp would help it clear up and finish out, but it sounds like the difference it would make is negligible if anything.

To be clear, I do think raising the temp 5ish degrees toward the end of attenuation and for the cleanup phase is beneficial. I would start the ramp at between the 4 to 6 day mark for a beer of that OG (really whenever it hit 70 to 80% attenuation). Yeast does a better job scrubbing diacetyl and other intermediate compounds at higher temps.

Raising the temp at the 2 week mark is likely too late for the yeast to be active at all though, and I don't think there would be a huge benefit to it.

 

[Yooper]

Yes i will be bottling and letting it bottle condition for at least 2 weeks at about 68F. I dont have a setup to cold crash so thats not an option for me currently. The OG was about 1.074 so i wouldnt consider that low. Its been 6 days and i dont think its done..the yeast is still visually active. The airlock has slowed to almost no activity, but the krausen hasnt dropped and the yeast is still swirling around.

I had just figured stepping up the temp for the extra week at a slightly higher temp would help it clear up and finish out, but it sounds like the difference it would make is negligible if anything.

If you're going to step up the temperature, do it now. It wouldn't help the beer fully attenuate if you step up the temperature once the yeast is finished anyway.

 

[bobeer]

I usually do 10-12 days in the fermentor then cold crash for 2-3 days and force carb in the keg for 2-3 days. I usually only use my house strain of yeast so I pretty much know when the beer has reached terminal gravity. Once that happens I let it sit for a little while longer to let the yeast clean things up. If it's not a high gravity beer, or aged on wood or with added flavors, I can go from grain to glass in about 3 weeks.
It's funny how 3 weeks used to seem like it took forever. Now it's not so bad.

 

[mrgrimm101]

To be clear, I do think raising the temp 5ish degrees toward the end of attenuation and for the cleanup phase is beneficial. I would start the ramp at between the 4 to 6 day mark for a beer of that OG (really whenever it hit 70 to 80% attenuation). Yeast does a better job scrubbing diacetyl and other intermediate compounds at higher temps.

Raising the temp at the 2 week mark is likely too late for the yeast to be active at all though, and I don't think there would be a huge benefit to it.

That was my plan, but there is nowhere in my house that is 5ish degrees higher than what its at now. I could move it upstairs, but that would raise it from 61F (currently) to about 68F-70F (upstairs). I didn't know if that was too big of a swing. And I didn't know if it was too early.

How do I tell the % of attenuation? I'm really paranoid about opening up the fermenter to take gravity samples, so I usually let it go for a few weeks and then bottle..always works favorably.

 

[Yooper]

That was my plan, but there is nowhere in my house that is 5ish degrees higher than what its at now. I could move it upstairs, but that would raise it from 61F (currently) to about 68F-70F (upstairs). I didn't know if that was too big of a swing. And I didn't know if it was too early.

How do I tell the % of attenuation? I'm really paranoid about opening up the fermenter to take gravity samples, so I usually let it go for a few weeks and then bottle..always works favorably.

It really depends on the yeast strain. If you're using, say, s04, I'd keep it cooler than 68. But if you're using S05, I'd keep it warmer than 65 degrees.

It may be too early, but if it's been fermenting for 6 days it should be pretty far along. The cold temperature may have it slowed, though.

Remember that we're talking about beer temperature, not ambient. So if it's an ambient of 61, and it's actively fermenting, perhaps the beer temperature is more like 63 or so.

 

[mrgrimm101]

I used rehydrated US-05 yeast. It has been 6 days, but the yeast is still visibly churning around. Ambient temp is about 60F, the fermometer on the carboy reads 61F. Considering the yeast that I used, I would be fine moving it up to around 68F? Like I said, I didn't want to bring it up the 8 degrees if it was going to have any ill-effects.

 

[Yooper]

I used rehydrated US-05 yeast. It has been 6 days, but the yeast is still visibly churning around. Ambient temp is about 60F, the fermometer on the carboy reads 61F. Considering the yeast that I used, I would be fine moving it up to around 68F? Like I said, I didn't want to bring it up the 8 degrees if it was going to have any ill-effects.

Yes. I actually prefer S05 at a warmer temperature. At 61, I find that I don't like those weird "peachy" flavors it produces.

While the yeast will ferment at a lower temperature, the preferred temperature range for that yeast for many of us is closer 65-68 degrees. It gets a bit estery at above 72 also.

 

[mrgrimm101]

Its sort of a big beer, thats why i put it in the basement at around 61F rather than upstairs at about 68F. I figured it would benefit from the lower temp. Fingers crossed that i dont get any peachy flavors..i hate peaches lol

 

[mrgrimm101]

Its been 7 days, the yeast is still swirling but im going to move it upstairs at about 66-68F and let it sit for another week or so. I might be able to manage an overnight outside cold crash before bottling

 

[poptarts]

Winter is awesome for free cold crashing.

 

[moreb33rplz]

2 weeks min for me, usually 3-4

 

[mrclean]

Stating what has already been said but this is generally my process:

Depends on the gravity of the beer but in general none of my beers go less than 14 days. I mostly brew in the 5-7% range and let it sit in primary for a month. Bigger beers I age in a 5 gallon glass carboy for usually 3months but that is the only time I use my secondary. All temp controlled in the 60s. I do however typically have the temp in upper 60s for first day or so....BUT big beers like 8-9% I usually keep cooler as to avoid spilage


Ohh...it also depends on how much beer I have on tap

 

[smizak]

Personally, I don't recommend the bulk aging thing.

Number one, beer is best fresh. Very rarely is a 5 month old beer better than a 1 month old beer.

Second, oxygen is the average homebrewers biggest problem. I don't care how careful you rack or tightly sealed you think your homebrew bucket or carboy is, your going to oxidize your beer. In my experience, bottle conditioning soon after fermentation is complete or carefully purging your kegs/vessels with CO2 is the best remediation available to homebrewers.

I can't tell you how many stouts and porters I've judged that were oxidized and would have scored much better had they been fresh samples. It's a shame that some of these homebrewers waited to enter them.

 

[mrclean]

That is usually why I rack into a 5 gallon glass secondary with as little headspace as possible.

Unless you are doing a pressurized transfer I am not sure that being to careful about oxygen is worth the effort as it's pretty unavoidable.

My big beers have always tastes better with time but than again I've never entered a competition to compare them

 

[mrclean]

How do you recommend purging a carboy with co2.

 

[Yooper]

Personally, I don't recommend the bulk aging thing.

Number one, beer is best fresh. Very rarely is a 5 month old beer better than a 1 month old beer.

Second, oxygen is the average homebrewers biggest problem. I don't care how careful you rack or tightly sealed you think your homebrew bucket or carboy is, your going to oxidize your beer. In my experience, bottle conditioning soon after fermentation is complete or carefully purging your kegs/vessels with CO2 is the best remediation available to homebrewers.

I can't tell you how many stouts and porters I've judged that were oxidized and would have scored much better had they been fresh samples. It's a shame that some of these homebrewers waited to enter them.

I agree. There are a few exceptions, but rarely is a 6 month old beer at its peak.

As a certified BJCP judge, I agree that oxidation is the most common flaw, and it's in the majority of the beers I've judged in competition.

Unless someone has a vessel-to-vessel transfer system and transfers under c02, just the act of opening/racking/closing will allow oxidation even if minimal. Oxidation shows itself more with age, and in fresh beers even a beer that was exposed to oxygen it won't be too bad. But with time, it will develop a "sherry" or "brandy" like flavor that is a hallmark of oxidation. You may see that in barley wines, and it is not a flaw there as micro-oxidation is expected and is a nice flavor characteristic, but it other beers, it is a fault.

As the late great Michael Jackson, the beer hunter not the pop star, said, "If you see a beer, do it a favor and drink it. Beer was not meant to age!"

 

[enkamania]

Three weeks, all in the primary.

 

[mrclean]

I agree. There are a few exceptions, but rarely is a 6 month old beer at its peak.

As a certified BJCP judge, I agree that oxidation is the most common flaw, and it's in the majority of the beers I've judged in competition.

Unless someone has a vessel-to-vessel transfer system and transfers under c02, just the act of opening/racking/closing will allow oxidation even if minimal. Oxidation shows itself more with age, and in fresh beers even a beer that was exposed to oxygen it won't be too bad. But with time, it will develop a "sherry" or "brandy" like flavor that is a hallmark of oxidation. You may see that in barley wines, and it is not a flaw there as micro-oxidation is expected and is a nice flavor characteristic, but it other beers, it is a fault.

As the late great Michael Jackson, the beer hunter not the pop star, said, "If you see a beer, do it a favor and drink it. Beer was not meant to age!"

Hmm, sounds like I need to do better

thinking this will be my next step and hopefully I get better beerthanks guys

http://www.love2brew.com/Articles.asp?ID=675

 

[smizak]

Hmm, sounds like I need to do better

thinking this will be my next step and hopefully I get better beerthanks guys

http://www.love2brew.com/Articles.asp?ID=675

Like Yoop said, if you drink it fast it might not be a problem, it takes some time to show up. But anything you mean to hold on to will certainly benefit.

 

[snowtires]

Yooper
I have been reading your comments on hbt for a while now and I agree with you 100%. As I have progressed in brewing and began using a ferm chamber I have found I can keg most of my beers in a week or two. As far as aging, perhaps extended time in yeast can help clean off flavours, but If there are no off flavours to begin with then most of the green beer flavour seems to be just suspended yeast which the cold kegerator temps help with within a week as it carbs. If the ferm was clean a week in the fridge can meld the flavours quite nicely and makes.for some nice clean pale ales in a glass within 3 weeks.

 

[jethro55]

After a couple of years of using the basic 2-4 weeks fermenting time, I made a recent try at a "quick" beer. A Pilsner Ale at OG 1.055 attenuated to 1.005 in 4 days with California Ale yeast. Then cleared for 5 days and bottled it.
Opened one yesterday and it is as good as I have ever done. 4 weeks grain to glass worked very well for this beer.

I just followed the advice given here. Listen to Yooper - a great source of knowledge for improving skills !

 

[ghohn]

10 days.

 

[jfk69]

I've gone as little as 7 for a blonde ale and as long as 4 weeks for an RIS, but usually 14-17 days. It's really more my work schedule and how whipped I am when I get home at night as to whether I feel like bottling or not. Now that I'm starting to keg more batches, 17 days is probably the max I go. As Yooper said, if you had good fermentation, and did well at controlling temperatures, there is no reason most beers aren't finished up and cleaned up in a couple weeks.

 

[beerkench]

One week fermentation, one week of dry hopping and then a few days to a week of cold crash. All in the primary. I use fermentation temp as an indicator. Once the temp starts to drop after a few days I know that it's peaked and slowing down.


Sent from hell
using Home Brew

 

[SippinSudz]

Hope someone can give me their two cents on this but,

I'm 6 brews in, and have only done coopers extracts. I didn't have a hydrometer for first 5, they turned out drinkable, but not 10/10. I did the two weeks ferment, then bottle for two weeks, drink.

I now have a hydrometer, and planned to wait 3-4 weeks in primary before bottling. Even if hydrometer is reading same result 2-3 days apart after 3 weeks. Will waiting a forth week help the yeast clean up, or will bottle conditioning for 3-4 weeks be enough?

Will this improve flavor at all if I leave in primary for say, 4 weeks before I even bother giving it a hydrometer reading.

 

[MXDXD]

In general :
3 weeks total.
7-to-10 days at initial temperature (colder)
Reminder at slightly warmer temperature.
Dryhopping done at day 15
Cold crashing at day 20.
Bottling at day 21.

 

[ncbrewer]

Hope someone can give me their two cents on this but,

I'm 6 brews in, and have only done coopers extracts. I didn't have a hydrometer for first 5, they turned out drinkable, but not 10/10. I did the two weeks ferment, then bottle for two weeks, drink.

I now have a hydrometer, and planned to wait 3-4 weeks in primary before bottling. Even if hydrometer is reading same result 2-3 days apart after 3 weeks. Will waiting a forth week help the yeast clean up, or will bottle conditioning for 3-4 weeks be enough?

Will this improve flavor at all if I leave in primary for say, 4 weeks before I even bother giving it a hydrometer reading.

I am completely qualified to give an opinion - it might or might not be correct. For average beers, I like 3 weeks fermentation. I just take gravity readings 3 days apart to be sure it's stable - I don't like to leave it any longer once I have opened it and dipped into it. 4 weeks is ok, but I doubt if it will improve the beer. Even the third week probably doesn't make any difference if all the fermentation conditions were favorable, but it might help clean up if necessary.

For conditioning, 3 weeks at 70 degrees is the general guideline for average beers. Then 7 days in the fridge. I don't have room in the fridge for 7 days worth of beer, so mine gets 2 days. Seems fine to me. Hope this helps.

 

[SippinSudz]

This beer has been fermenting 5 days now. I will forget about going 4 weeks.

I don't know what the yeast is that comes with Coopers Canned extract kits, but could it handle upping the temperature for the remaining time?
I'm currently fermenting at about 68-69°