dwhite60
Well-Known Member
Over the past year I've had occasion to buy some ldme. Quality seems to have improved quite a bit over twenty some years of grain brewing.
Many of us started out this way, as a large quality SS brewpot is one of the most expensive brewing items. You can do concentrated wort boils, but you also have to take into account a couple of things:If you want you can make an extra strong wort and then dilute with boiled and cooled water. This will make a normal strength beer with a much smaller pot.
I agree. I've been at it since 1994. 271 brews and no compulsion to change now.It's a hobby and if you like the beer that's all that matters.
How long have you been brewing beer using only extract kits? I was wondering how many here are content to brew only with extract kits and not taken the step to go "all grain"?
I've been brewing extracts for a while and have yet to make a batch that was undrinkable. In fact, a vast majority have been great beers and I'm happy to stay where I am but I still look at taking that next step, it's a fun hobby!
I have been brewing 5 gallon extract for 3 years with good results. I moved from stove top to a gigawort electric brew kettle and am considering doing some BIAB batches.How long have you been brewing beer using only extract kits? I was wondering how many here are content to brew only with extract kits and not taken the step to go "all grain"?
I've been brewing extracts for a while and have yet to make a batch that was undrinkable. In fact, a vast majority have been great beers and I'm happy to stay where I am but I still look at taking that next step, it's a fun hobby!
Glad to hear it! In that case, I guess it's worth a shot. I've even considered having two pots going at once: one for steeping or mashing, and another that's got the boil rolling with hops and some extract.
- I wouldn’t be so quick to dismiss having your water tested. Water chemistry is not “simplified” by buying all your brewing water and lugging it home or spending big money on an RO system for your home. A water chemistry report with essential numbers for brewing costs about $40 and takes a couple weeks max. From there its much easier to use your own tap water and make a couple adjustments. Unless your water is so awful for brewing to where it can’t be adjusted. But then if that’s really the case, you are using it for everything else in your life so you have a choice to make. If you live in Flint, MI then it’s time to move.Too many memes that don't promote (or encourage) deeper discussion? Too much "old information" being recycled?
There was a time when ...
Since then ...
- ... brewing "all-grain" required making a mash tun.
- ... "water chemistry" (seemed to) require a water analysis from a lab.
- ... (apparently) malt extracts and dry yeast were of poor quality.
- ... the "end goal" of home brewing was 5 gallon all-grain kegged beer.
There may be a time when ...
- ... BIAB
- ... simplified "water chemistry" using distilled / RO water
- ... quality of DME/LME & dry yeast has improved
- ... dry yeast (has recently) become "just another ingredient"
- ... it has become acceptable to talk about brewing small batch sizes, bottling, etc.
- ... we view DME/LME as "just another ingredient".
- ... rather than using a "next level" model, we view home brewing as just a big bag of techniques and ingredients.
That approach seems reasonable. There are claims on the number of IBUs (100 is often stated) that one can get in a volume of water. So maybe steep the grains in the side pot & boil the hops in the main kettle?I'm wondering if I could simply boil the hops in a small side pot directly (no bag or filter) and then strain into the main pot. Basically making a side hop extract while grains steep simultaneously instead of sequentially.
There may be a time when ...
- ...
- ... rather than using a "next level" model, we view home brewing as just a big bag of techniques and ingredients.