How has Brulosophy changed your brewing habits?

[ericbw]

I would like to say that Marshall has brewed and brews waaay more beer than me (think most), has met with more famous hb people, worked harder at hb, invested more time in hb, blogged about hb, written wonderfully about hb, experimented with hb, used different equipment in hb than me by 100x over. In totality, his work in home brew is down right impressive imo.

Everything you say is interesting. He's done a lot of work. That's extensive. To be impressive, it seems like the results should be less impeachable. It's not that people don't think he's putting in the work. It's that the results are far from clear.

I think that's the divide - those who see the results as definitive and those who see it as interesting but not conclusive.

 

[betarhoalphadelta]

I should point out that you don't need to re-brew the same recipe over and over to judge your own process.

I would think that it's harder, of course, if you're changing all sorts of different recipe factors from batch to batch.

But for a lot of beers, there really isn't a lot of complication. If I'm brewing a blonde ale, or an Oktoberfest lager, or even an IPA, I know based on the ingredients going in what it's "supposed to" taste like.

Granted, if you decide you want to brew a peanut butter milk stout, follow that up with a grodziskie, and then a gruit, it's hard to gauge your process. But if you're brewing more "classic" styles, it's not that hard.

 

[jack13]

Mino choi, the person I quote often brews the same batches over and over. This is no doubt a worthwhile venture to get a feel for brewing and Brewing practices.

That is undeniably true.

 

[MSK_Chess]

I would definitely say they ave changed my approach to the amount of time taken from pitching to Keg. Before it was two weeks fermentation and two weeks conditioning. Now its like as soon as fermentation has finished get it chilled, fined and in the keg.

 

[ericbw]

I would definitely say they ave changed my approach to the amount of time taken from pitching to Keg. Before it was two weeks fermentation and two weeks conditioning. Now its like as soon as fermentation has finished get it chilled, fined and in the keg.

Even when I do that, it still takes 4 weeks to taste good.

 

[Upthewazzu]

Even when I do that, it still takes 4 weeks to taste good.

I sort of agree. Something magical happens 2 weeks after kegging. This is true of all the styles I make.

 

[RichBenn]

Oh boy...another one of these threads. Lets see how it takes to derail like the other one.

In support of the thread I like reading his exbeeriments. I did the 34/70 warm quick lager that worked out well....if nothing else his exbeeriments have made me worry less about my brewing

I did an accelerated Octoberfest for a party using 34/70 because of Bulosophy and it is as good as the best Marzen I've ever had. Your worry less comment is right on. RDWHAHB is rediscovered!

Oh, and please, people, there is another bash brulosophy thread. Let`s keep this one on point. All of us that have been brewing for a while(since '81 for me) have incorporated changes in our brewing from others experiences including myths we now no longer follow - and this thread is asking for examples of that based on Brulosophy.

 

[schematix]

I would definitely say they ave changed my approach to the amount of time taken from pitching to Keg. Before it was two weeks fermentation and two weeks conditioning. Now its like as soon as fermentation has finished get it chilled, fined and in the keg.

Even when I do that, it still takes 4 weeks to taste good.

I look back and laugh now that when i first started i did a 28 days primary as standard practice.

Now by day 14 i'm in the keg, fully keg conditioned, and chilled already for a few days. The beer is much better for it.

 

[Murphys_Law]

I’m not sure there is any one thing that’s changed but my take away is that beer can be pretty forgiving. As a home brewer I want consistency but if one batch varies slightly over another...it’s still good beer, just different.

I can live with that (unlike professionals who need to have consistency).

 

[ericbw]

I’m not sure there is any one thing that’s changed but my take away is that beer can be pretty forgiving. As a home brewer I want consistency but if one batch varies slightly over another...it’s still good beer, just different.

I can live with that (unlike professionals who need to have consistency).

I think that's one of the things I think is interesting/good about home made stuff. There's a variation.

 

[ericbw]

I look back and laugh now that when i first started i did a 28 days primary as standard practice.



Now by day 14 i'm in the keg, fully keg conditioned, and chilled already for a few days. The beer is much better for it.

So you're "grain to glass" within 3 weeks? Does it improve with time after that?

 

[schematix]

So you're "grain to glass" within 3 weeks? Does it improve with time after that?

I call it 2-3 weeks. I like the extra week of just pure cold storage to drop the beer bright. The IPA is better at 2 weeks than 3 weeks though.

Over time I've found that if you do everything right up front, it's basically at its peak as soon as its done. There's no aging required.

Lagers however do get better for about 4-6 weeks before they plateau.

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

I call it 2-3 weeks. I like the extra week of just pure cold storage to drop the beer bright. The IPA is better at 2 weeks than 3 weeks though.

Over time I've found that if you do everything right up front, it's basically at its peak as soon as its done. There's no aging required.

Lagers however do get better for about 4-6 weeks before they plateau.

This is the reason I'm going to filter my next batch. THe beer is done but the yeast takes awhile to drop out and takes away from the flavor. Looking forward to seeing how it works out. Never know might have clean fresh beer ready to drink in 10 days

 

[schematix]

This is the reason I'm going to filter my next batch. THe beer is done but the yeast takes awhile to drop out and takes away from the flavor. Looking forward to seeing how it works out. Never know might have clean fresh beer ready to drink in 10 days

If you think yeast takes out the flavor, wait until you try filtering. Very bright beer though. Short shelf life though due to oxidation.

 

[ircbrewing]

I also do a 14 day schedule. I let the beer go in the bucket for 14 days and then keg and set psi to 25 psi for 3 days and its done. 17 days. The carbonation is really set after 4-5 days at serving pressure but plenty drinkable after 3 days at 25 psi.

I can do a centennial blonde ale in 7 days and 3 day carb so its ready in 10 days but its a light grain bill and doesnt take long for US-05 to plow through it.

 

[Miraculix]

I call it 2-3 weeks. I like the extra week of just pure cold storage to drop the beer bright. The IPA is better at 2 weeks than 3 weeks though.

Over time I've found that if you do everything right up front, it's basically at its peak as soon as its done. There's no aging required.

Lagers however do get better for about 4-6 weeks before they plateau.

Let's add Stouts to the list of brews that benefit a lot from longer time on the yeast.

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

If you think yeast takes out the flavor, wait until you try filtering. Very bright beer though. Short shelf life though due to oxidation.

I've heard about oxidation with filtering but I'm having a hard understanding why. I've been using an auto siphon for years without issue. My plan is to use a small brown pump to push through an under sink filter. Aside from the churning of the pump possibly adding oxygen I don't see the difference. Don't people use a pump to transfer instead of an auto siphon without issue?? It's just moving beer from point A to point B with a filter in the middle. I read mixed reviews on stripping flavor. Shelf life never seems to be an issue around here

I was actually thinking of racking to keg with an auto siphon my normal way and hooking up to system. Then attach a tube to the end of my faucet and filter to another keg just like pulling a tap. It's a bit of a stretch and a double transfer but being is being pushed with co2 I thought it might not be an issue ???

 

[thunderwagn]

Read that too....I wanna try this....so you fermented in the 60's?

Worked well for me fermenting a helles. 34/70 pitched at 58 and free rise up to 68. Rack to keg with gelatine and lager in fridge for several weeks.

 

[ircbrewing]

Agree stouts do not really apply I think. They could use a good month to really age approptiately. That said Ive dont plenty good ones on the 14 day schedule.

 

[mongoose33]

I've heard about oxidation with filtering but I'm having a hard understanding why. I've been using an auto siphon for years without issue. My plan is to use a small brown pump to push through an under sink filter. Aside from the churning of the pump possibly adding oxygen I don't see the difference. Don't people use a pump to transfer instead of an auto siphon without issue?? It's just moving beer from point A to point B with a filter in the middle. I read mixed reviews on stripping flavor. Shelf life never seems to be an issue around here

I was actually thinking of racking to keg with an auto siphon my normal way and hooking up to system. Then attach a tube to the end of my faucet and filter to another keg just like pulling a tap. It's a bit of a stretch and a double transfer but being is being pushed with co2 I thought it might not be an issue ???

Why would filtering promote oxidation? If the filter is not purged of O2, as the beer is forced through the filter it's coming into contact with...air, and O2.

Anything that causes bubbles or other contact with air will give you exposure to O2. If you could purge the filter lines and filter housing w/ CO2 then filter the beer, I don't see any issue.

If I were inclined to do this (thinking out loud here), I might set up the lines and filter housing in series with the CO2 being produced in fermentation. I've included a pic below showing a system to preserve CO2 so that will be what's sucked back when I crash the beer in the fermenter.

The fermenter in the small fridge has a lid w/ just a small rigid plastic tube to which is connected 5/16" silicone tubing. That tubing runs through a drilled hole in the top of the fridge out into the left jar. As fermentation proceeds, CO2 is pumped into the first jar, then moves into the second where it's bubbling up. Not difficult to add tubing and filter in series with this so as to benefit from the natural production of CO2.

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

Double post

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

Why would filtering promote oxidation? If the filter is not purged of O2, as the beer is forced through the filter it's coming into contact with...air, and O2.

I wouldn't think filling the filter canister or air in the lines would make much difference than using an auto siphon and filling a keg as long as its not splashing. Maybe it would, haven't tried it out yet.

I would want a separate co2 tank to purge. Whats the cheapest route? A paintball tank with a vinyl tube with one of those little air/dust blower things on the end comes to mind? Open the tank and blow some co2 through the line starting with the fermenter side and ending in the keg. It would purge the lines filter and keg all at the same time

 

[mongoose33]

I wouldn't think filling the filter canister or air in the lines would make much difference than using an auto siphon and filling a keg as long as its not splashing. Maybe it would, haven't tried it out yet.

I would want a separate co2 tank to purge. Whats the cheapest route? A paintball tank with a vinyl tube with one of those little air/dust blower things on the end comes to mind? Open the tank and blow some co2 through the line starting with the fermenter side and ending in the keg. It would purge the lines filter and keg all at the same time

How easily any of this is to do depends on available space, the setup, whether you can leave things in place and don't have to tear it down to make room in the kitchen, things like that.

I'm also aware that how people perceive certain flavors (and off-flavors!) depends on the person. Palates differ.

I don't have a particularly refined palate, though I'm getting better at perceiving flavors. Maybe I can be trained?

But since others drink my beer too, I'm aiming for best practices even if I can't be sure there's a flavor difference there. So purge everything I can, even the smallest area of air that comes into contact w/ the beer. When I rack from my fermenter using the spigot, I'll purge the line connected to the QD on the keg w/ residual CO2 from the slight positive pressure left in the keg. I'll even use that CO2 coming out of the tube to purge the area inside the spout of the spigot just before I connect it.

Too much? Too much hassle? Every brewer gets to make up her/his own mind about it. Would running beer through a filter that hasn't been purged add O2 to the system? I can't see how it wouldn't--all the air in there would end up where? In the keg. Is it enough to matter? I don't know--all I know is O2 is the enemy of packaged beer, and I am doing everything I can to eliminate it.

Your mileage--and flavors--may vary.

 

[6midgets]

I no longer use a secondary fermenter unless I have an addition to make thanks to the Brulosophy guys. I just started listening to their podcast about 3 months ago. It's really good except for the "Jersey and Tim" segment.

 

[Dog House Brew]

I have honestly never understood this "fast lager" stuff. I pitch and ferment my lagers at 45F, they are ready to be spunded on day 5, and on day 7 I am at FG AND fully carbed, all in a fashion that avoided any oxidation. So I don't get it.

Do you leave your temp at 45, or are you increasing your temp?

 

[Vandulus]

If anything, Brulosophy has encouraged me try different techniques to dial in my brewing style. One thing I've taken away is that I can get away with a 30 minute mash and 30 minute boil if I'm pressed for time. I just add a bit more base grain to make up for the loss in efficiency and can knock an hour off my brew day. The experiments also help me to take all of the "tried and true" brewing methods with a grain of salt. Some of the traditional brewing methods were based upon the equipment, ingredients, water available at the time. Now we have much more control over these variables, it's sometimes easier to modify them than use the traditional techniques.

 

[LiDonni]

I've adopted the quick lager method, and I don't worry too much about the temperature of my sparge water anymore.

Would you like to share with the class? That seems like a very interesting and useful technique, good job!

 

[Silver_Is_Money]

Brulosophy has taught me to save money by using Magnum as my bittering hop in place of the nobles.

But one time I believe they led me astray, wherein I took things too far with Magnum in a sort of Eliot Ness style Vienna Lager I brewed, and I added in some Magnum as part of each of my flavoring and aroma additions as well as the bittering addition. The resulting hop flavor was cuttingly biting, and not at all noble hop like mellow or pleasing. The batch only mellowed to what I will refer to as "acceptability" after sitting for nearly a full 3 months in the bottles. Never again will I venture beyond bittering with Magnum.

Sometimes I wonder if many of the Brulosophy taste testers are like my friends and relatives, wherein no matter what I serve them, and how honest I ask them to be, and even when I point out the obvious flaws I detect, they always insist it is the best beer ever (while telling me that I'm too critical and analytical). Perhaps in a similar fashion the testers fear of rocking the boat and upsetting the brewer keeps them from letting it all hang out and telling it like it really is. Maybe they should all be BJCP certified, and go at it specifically from that perspective.

 

[mongoose33]

Brulosophy has taught me to save money by using Magnum as my bittering hop in place of the nobles.

But one time I believe they led me astray, wherein I took things too far with Magnum in a sort of Eliot Ness style Vienna Lager I brewed, and I added in some Magnum as part of each of my flavoring and aroma additions as well as the bittering addition. The resulting hop flavor was cuttingly biting, and not at all noble hop like mellow or pleasing. The batch only mellowed to what I will refer to as "acceptability" after sitting for nearly a full 3 months in the bottles. Never again will I venture beyond bittering with Magnum.

Sometimes I wonder if many of the Brulosophy taste testers are like my friends and relatives, wherein no matter what I serve them, and how honest I ask them to be, and even when I point out the obvious flaws I detect, they always insist it is the best beer ever (while telling me that I'm too critical and analytical). Perhaps in a similar fashion the testers fear of rocking the boat and upsetting the brewer keeps them from letting it all hang out and telling it like it really is. Maybe they should all be BJCP certified, and go at it specifically from that perspective.

I am also wary of the friends/family propensity to be nice, instead of being accurate.

How do I get past that? I use the "second beer" indicator, that is, whatever someone says after one beer I take with a grain of salt. If they decide to have a second, that speaks in much greater volume than what they might say after one.

Though, if you're lucky to have someone tasting you who is honest, they may not have another. I had one of Morrey's belgians, and it was great, for a belgian. It was what I'd expect it to be, flavorful, no weird off flavors, a very nice beer. And I would never have a second one because I do not care for Belgians. But it was a very good beer.