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How do you route propane to banjo burners?

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Tomtanner

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Hey guys,

Picking up the steel for my single tier on Tuesday and am beginning to make plans to get my burners set up. I hear gas beams are unsafe so what's the proper way to route the gas to the burners?

Also I think I would like to set up regulates similar to what you might see on a normal gas grill along with igniters. Has anyone done this or does anyone have any thoughts on how to do it?
 
Here is my gas piping. I got the hangers at Lowes.

10 Burners.jpg
 
I do the same thing with externally mounted BIP and then brass fittings. I would never consider using the frame of the stand and it's a waste of gas anyway.
 
Oh BTW - you really need to search on the forum - there's a million examples of this and everyone does it differently. You need to really think it through in the context of your stand. I went a very simple route - BIP rail, then T off to various differing plumbing for each burner which is ultimately mated to the burner via stainless flex tubing. I use Honeywell Q314A pilots for the MT and HLT burners for partial-automation.
 
Do am I correct in thinking that I can basically just use pipe? How can I be sure that it is not leaking?
 
soapy water test for leaks... just make up your soapy water solution and put it on all your joints. If there are bubbles, then you have leaks.
 
jcaudill said:
Oh BTW - you really need to search on the forum - there's a million examples of this and everyone does it differently. You need to really think it through in the context of your stand. I went a very simple route - BIP rail, then T off to various differing plumbing for each burner which is ultimately mated to the burner via stainless flex tubing. I use Honeywell Q314A pilots for the MT and HLT burners for partial-automation.

What is BIP rail?
 
Do am I correct in thinking that I can basically just use pipe? How can I be sure that it is not leaking?

Pick up some blue teflon tape (for gas pipe) and some gas pipe dope. Tighten down with some pipe wrenches and your good to go. You can do a pressure test, or just run your gas to it and do a soap test.
 
Do am I correct in thinking that I can basically just use pipe? How can I be sure that it is not leaking?

You want to use black pipe...look at whatever gas you have running in you're house....

Use proper teflon tape when assembling...

dish soap mixed with water once you have gas running in it looking for air leaks (like a bicycle tube)
 
crazyseany said:
You want to use black pipe...look at whatever gas you have running in you're house....

Use proper teflon tape when assembling...

dish soap mixed with water once you have gas running in it looking for air leaks (like a bicycle tube)

What type of store should I start at? Home depot or ace hardware? Or should I go to a propane shop?
 
BIP = Black Iron Pipe which is sold at HD and Lowes. 1/2" is common - but use 1/4" if you can find it because 1/2" is a waste of gas.

I would use gas teflon (yellow) on the fittings after the rail, and use Rectorseal pipe sealant on the BIP. It's my preference - doesn't have to be done this way.

I pressure tested mine with a cheap pressure tester they sell at HD with some adapters and a bicycle pump. If it held 30 psi for an hour I was content.
 
Oh - just a tip - make sure your measurements for the Tee's in the BIP include loss for threading or you'll end up misaligned. If you care.
 
jcaudill said:
BIP = Black Iron Pipe which is sold at HD and Lowes. 1/2" is common - but use 1/4" if you can find it because 1/2" is a waste of gas.

I would use gas teflon (yellow) on the fittings after the rail, and use Rectorseal pipe sealant on the BIP. It's my preference - doesn't have to be done this way.

I pressure tested mine with a cheap pressure tester they sell at HD with some adapters and a bicycle pump. If it held 30 psi for an hour I was content.

Great advice thank you! When you say the rail are you talking about the pipe?
 
Yes - commonly the main source of gas after the tank and regulator and before the burners and misc. plumbing is referred to as the rail.
 
BIP = Black Iron Pipe which is sold at HD and Lowes. 1/2" is common - but use 1/4" if you can find it because 1/2" is a waste of gas.

I would use gas teflon (yellow) on the fittings after the rail, and use Rectorseal pipe sealant on the BIP. It's my preference - doesn't have to be done this way.

I pressure tested mine with a cheap pressure tester they sell at HD with some adapters and a bicycle pump. If it held 30 psi for an hour I was content.

+1 on the rectorseal and yellow tape (its thicker and gas line specific)crank it down tight as hell with a large pipe wrench,you should be good
 
+1 on the rectorseal and yellow tape (its thicker and gas line specific)crank it down tight as hell with a large pipe wrench,you should be good

Definitely!

But don't do this on brass parts - brass is soft and only needs to be tightened to the point you're not forcing it.
 
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