How do you all attach lines to your mash tuns and boil kettles?

[Beer Viking]

It looks like the final step for me to take before I do my first all grain batch is just getting and finding a way of easily attaching my lines to my mash tun and to my boil kettle. It would really help if you could show me some pictures of how you all do it.

Thanks!

 

[robert.balsinger]

I use quick disconnects from a brew supplier to the north. I am sure they are as good as most other QD but you only get what you pay for. I do not love them. They work as promised but if I were starting over I would invest in tri clamp. Battling leaks at the most inconvenient moments is infuriating.
I made reinforced silicone lines after trying lesser strength hoses and getting a bath or two when accidentally over pressuring. My strategy is to have female QD on all the vessels. Then I made short, medium, and long with male QD and female QD on the ends. One short and one long with male QD on both ends connect vessel to vessel when no pump is involved.
This strategy work on my 3 tier. QDs get hot fast. Wear gloves.

 

[IslandLizard]

Male connectors on all vessels and "stationary" equipment here, such as plate chiller, pump, etc. Female connectors on all hoses, to prevent damage to the fittings. It makes every connection universal.

To have a 1/2" bore nearly all the way through, I use mostly 1/2" Camlocks everywhere. On hoses Hi-flow Cam Big C or Cam Kit BL.
Cam Big C: Threads on a Cam C machined into a single edge hose barb.
Cam Kit BL: Threads on a Street Elbow machined into a single edge hose barb + Cam B.

Those are to avoid the narrow, flow limiting standard "barbs" of the regular Cam C.

https://www.brewhardware.com/category_s/1844.htm
I still have a barb on my mash tun (outlet) valve, I clamp a piece of hose over that to fill or drain. Could be changed to Cam locks too, but there's little need or advantage.

 

[tracer bullet]

Everything 1/2" - pipe thread, hoses, etc.
Tool-less hose clamps, the ones w/ the keys built in
Blichmann quick connectors, straight or right angled

The quick connectors make it pretty easy to move things around as needed, and the tool-less clamps make it easy to tear apart to clean at the end of the day.

There are probably better setups but it works well for me.

Examples:

https://www.homebrewing.org/Spyder-Turn-Key-All-Stainless-Clamp--716--78_p_7849.html
https://www.homebrewing.org/12-Straight-Quick-Connect-Blichmann-_p_2118.html

 

[Bobby_M]

You dont need to take connectors off the hoses. It kind of defeats the purpose of Qds.

 

[Beer Viking]

I measured the thickest point on my boil kettle's vavle and it is just over 1.1". I have no idea what to attach to the valve or if I should just get a bigger line that is over 1.1" and clamp it on every time?

 

[robert.balsinger]

That looks like half inch FPT to me. You would measure the inside diameter not the outside diameter. FPT means female pipe thread. You would put a male pipe thread into…..,,,,,Well you know.

 

[Bobby_M]

 

[robert.balsinger]

Sweet. That should help. Jeez. That is really useful. Thx

 

[T Murph]

I use all SS QDs and 1/2 silicone hoses. I put male QDs on every piece of equipment, tanks, pumps, chillers, HERMS, etc. I use female QDs on both ends of my hoses. This set up makes it easy to safely connect and disconnect hoses from hot equipment without burning my hands.

 

[oakbarn]

I would use 3/4 " reinforced silicone to attach to a Center Inlet Pump like the Chugger Dry Max. Remember that you can control the flow on the Outlet of the pump and never on the supply side. We also fill our vessel backwards through the pumps to prime them. We leave everything in place and clean in place. We do have separate pumps for each vessels and never disconnect a hose during brewing (a trip to an Emergency Room prompted that). We brewed for years with out issues. We do occasionally take the manifold apart to inspect, but it has always been clean. We do clean it for a couple of hours after we brew. We clean the MLT part while we are Boiling and then use the same PBW to clean the Brew Kettle.

The Cold side of the brewery needs to be very clean and sanitized. The hot side can be more forgiving. Years ago we had a Blickmann valve with the bolts holding it together. We brewed about two years and I decided to take it apart an clean it. It needed it! Obviously during those two years, the valve was not pristine, but we never had and issues with contamination.

 

[JohnSand]

I just use silicone hose on barbed fittings. Tight enough not to leak without clamps. Pushes on, pulls off.

 

[Beer Viking]

That looks like half inch FPT to me. You would measure the inside diameter not the outside diameter. FPT means female pipe thread. You would put a male pipe thread into…..,,,,,Well you know.

Thanks for posting, it really helps. I'm not good with plumbing/ pipe fitting. The ID of the valve is .8" (.9 if I include the threading). I understand now that I need to attach something into the valve and then attach my line to that piece, but I have no idea what piece I need to order. I found the exact boil kettle I have online if someone could tell me what I need to get. Thanks!

https://www.ontariobeerkegs.com/304ss-33l-pot-mashking-w-holes.html

 

[Deadalus]

Thanks for posting, it really helps. I'm not good with plumbing/ pipe fitting. The ID of the valve is .8" (.9 if I include the threading). I understand now that I need to attach something into the valve and then attach my line to that piece, but I have no idea what piece I need to order. I found the exact boil kettle I have online if someone could tell me what I need to get. Thanks!

https://www.ontariobeerkegs.com/304ss-33l-pot-mashking-w-holes.html

What's the number above 304 on the valve body? Looks like it says 1/2 but I can't quite tell.

 

[Beer Viking]

What's the number above 304 on the valve body? Looks like it says 1/2 but I can't quite tell.

You are correct, it says 1/2 above 304. The valve inside could be 1/2 an inch but I think the ID is .8-.9 of an inch, at least at the opening. I really know nothing about plumbing though like I said but I don't think this company would make a boil kettle that was not compatible with common parts.

 

[tracer bullet]

I understand now that I need to attach something into the valve and then attach my line to that piece, but I have no idea what piece I need to order.

1/2" NPT nipple if you're doing say a quick connector. Example:

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/hexnip12.htm
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/nptswivelcooltouch12barb.htm
For just a hose and a clamp:

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/hosebarb12mx12.htm

 

[Deadalus]

You are correct, it says 1/2 above 304. The valve inside could be 1/2 an inch but I think the ID is .8-.9 of an inch, at least at the opening. I really know nothing about plumbing though like I said but I don't think this company would make a boil kettle that was not compatible with common parts.

The inside diameter of the male piece is 1/2".

 

[Deadalus]

The inside diameter of the male piece is 1/2".

The inside diameter of the tubing itself (approximately). Then there is the tubing thickness. You could then cut threads with a die at the tubing end to make a male end to which you could screw on a female fitting. So it's helpful when it is stamped but not always the case!

The 304 references the type of stainless steel.

 

[Dr_Jeff]

I as well use the camlock connectors.
With a bit of experience/practice I can put them on and take them off with one hand.
I switched to the silicone seals from the standard seals a few years back and use the oeticker clamps.

 

[oakbarn]

The Mash Tun outlet should be a standard 1/2 NFPT. It looks like the 2 piece ball valves on the website are standard 1/2 ". I would suggest that you put the ball valve into the kettle and the rest of your plumbing on the outlet of the ball valve. You can get most fittings (Cam Lock, Hose Barb or Tri Clover with standard 1/2" NPT in either male or female. I would bet that the Mash Tun fitting is Female and the 2 piece ball valve is Male on one end and female on the other. That means you screw the ball valve into the Mash Tun and then what connector you are using (like a 1/2" Hose barb) that has a male NPT 1/2" on the other side of the barb. Regardless of what you use, this can easily be changed in the future for only money and some time.

 

[WesBrew]

1/2id Camlocks and 1/2id silicone tubing everywhere. Male connecters threaded into the tun, kettle & pump and female ends in all of the hoses as Murph did above.

 

[Beer Viking]

1/2" NPT nipple if you're doing say a quick connector. Example:

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/hexnip12.htm
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/nptswivelcooltouch12barb.htm
For just a hose and a clamp:

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/hosebarb12mx12.htm

The third one, the one for the hose and clamp, can I just order that and attach it and then order 1/2" ID silicon tubing and I'm good to go? Will I need Teflon tape to attach it?

 

[Dr_Jeff]

Teflon tape on NPT threads is always a good idea

 

[Transamguy77]

I bought these last year

CONCORD 304 Stainless Steel Quick Disconnect Barb Hose with MPT Set. Home Brewing Mash Tun. 2 Pack (Barb Female/MPT Male) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HGL4WCB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_MTRMAKMDHWWVJPDSPPVA

 

[WesBrew]

If camlock; I think you’d be looking for type F male to thread into the valve, then a C or Big C female for the tubing ends. No nipple unless you’re trying to move it out further. Use a type A male if your attaching it to something with male npt threads

 

[tracer bullet]

The third one, the one for the hose and clamp, can I just order that and attach it and then order 1/2" ID silicon tubing and I'm good to go? Will I need Teflon tape to attach it?

Yes and sort of. I'd suggest "pipe dope" instead of tape, but that's a personal preference and tape will do. Just make sure to wrap it the right direction so that threading the fitting in place doesn't undo your tape job.

 

[oakbarn]

Just got a Riptide Pump.

in the literature:

If using NPT pipe fittings, always wrap the threads in Teflon tape to prevent galling of the threads. Galled threads are not covered under warranty.

and

WARNING: Always secure hoses with clamps to insure they do not come off during use.

 

[IslandLizard]

I'd suggest "pipe dope" instead of tape

Something like Blue Monster or a special "food grade" pipe dope? I can imagine some dope may get in contact with the wort, squeezing out on the inside while threading.

I've never had problems using tape, white, yellow, or other, thicker tape. But I may add an extra turn (or 2 or 3), where needed.

For example I had some trouble re-sealing the shut off valves in aluminum body gas manifolds while positioning them to face the front once tightened. This was after cleaning out the cutting grease, metal shavings, and whatnot. Since the material is thin, there are only 2-3 turns of thread in those. Using a little pipe dope as well may have helped making positive seals.

 

[IslandLizard]

Use a type A male if your attaching it to something with male npt threads

I think you meant to write this:
"Use a type A male if your attaching it to something with female npt threads"

Such as valves.

 

[oakbarn]

I like the pink tape.