Hot Tub RIMS Tube

[bendiy]

No, not that thread again.

Has anyone used a hot tub
Heater Assembly for a RIMS tube?

 

[Punx Clever]

I just picked up this:

VersaTherm Universal Heater Assembly 240v/120v

Waiting on some fittings (coming from Derrin at Brewer's Hardware) to finalize the setup then do a test run on an IPA. If I can find a couple CPVC 2"-1/2" NPT bushings locally, I might slap something together to make hot water before my stainless gets in.

Just looking at the part and technical drawings for 2" tri-clover fittings, it should hook up to the flanges on the end no problem. Also have a 1/8" RTD probe coming, it will screw into the pressure taps on the tube.

 

[Lucky_Chicken]

Love it! i didnt even know these existed... let me know how it works... i may have to shamelessly steal your idea. :rockin:

 

[bendiy]

I ask because I've acquired this:

It's an electric control panel for a hot tub / spa with an 4000W 240V heat tube attached.

It's 15" long:

2.75" in diameter:

With a temperature senor attached on the outside:

It also has a pressure / flow sensor that I think it uses to ensure water is flowing through the tube before turning the heating element on:

Here's the inside. It needs a good cleaning:

Here are the electronics:

Side Ports:

 

[bendiy]

Does anyone make a 2.75" Tri Clover fitting?

Do you think a 3" Tri Clover fitting could work on this?

 

[jusware]

Awesome find!! Get ahold of darrin at brewers hardware, he would probably be able to answer your question as well as find a part for you. That's alot of electronics in there .. what are the labels on the plugs on the bottom pic. I've got an electrical engineering degree and I'm very curious .. If I lived closer to you I'd love to come over and play with that. I currently have a RIMs based off theelectricbrewery.com design. Once you go RIMs .. you won't go back

 

[Skagdog]

Truly intrigued. My wife and I bought a house recently and it came with a hot tub with a severely cracked hottub....

I never saw the brewplication of it.

 

[Punx Clever]

I saw lots of used heaters on eBay... didn't pounce because the thought of using a heater that used to make human stew bothered me.

Either way, those are the same measurements as mine, and I think that 2" trial clovers will fit. Remember, fitting sizes are based on the size of tube, not the size of the fittings.

 

[bendiy]

I saw lots of used heaters on eBay... didn't pounce because the thought of using a heater that used to make human stew bothered me.

Either way, those are the same measurements as mine, and I think that 2" trial clovers will fit. Remember, fitting sizes are based on the size of tube, not the size of the fittings.

Good to know. I haven't ever used tri clovers. If that's the case, it should work fine as is.

I got it from the in-laws 10 year old jacuzzi that broke and froze up, so it's used, but at least I know where and by who. The heating element can be replaced, a little bar keepers friend and it's like new.

 

[Punx Clever]

The only thing I can see going wrong with it is that the control panel probably has an upper limit of 115 F or so.

I've never used tri-clovers before either, but drawings of the fittings from McMaster give me a little more than hope.

 

[bendiy]

what are the labels on the plugs on the bottom pic.

Here's a closeup on the port labels. They are for the pumps, lights, misters, etc.

There were also some interface controls that are water tight.

 

[bendiy]

The only thing I can see going wrong with it is that the control panel probably has an upper limit of 115 F or so.

I doubt I'll be able to use the control board for it. Unless I can hack the temperature sensor with a voltage divider so it's actual temp is twice what it thinks it is, the IC probably has a hard coded upper limit on the temp. I would have to reprogram or replace the controller IC. I think it will be easier to just use some of the parts in the control box and an SSR and arduino.

 

[Punx Clever]

I'm just going to use the cheap Auber PID and an SSR with mine. No logging ability, but it's simple and effective.

 

[bendiy]

@Punx

Let me know when you get your 2" tri-clover fittings and if they work. I'll probably order some in the next week or two if it works out for you.

 

[Punx Clever]

@Punx

Let me know when you get your 2" tri-clover fittings and if they work. I'll probably order some in the next week or two if it works out for you.

They work. The tube flange could probably be ground down a little, but with some fanagling, it's leak-free. Just be sure to use the actual tri-clover gaskets, not an o-ring like for the sanke conversion.

 

[Punx Clever]

Here's some pictures of a teat run on the new rims system with the hot tub heater.

 

[Skagdog]

How was temp management during the test?

I guess it coulda been a leak test. Either way, let us know!!!

 

[Punx Clever]

It raised temps well on 120 volt... got it up to 100 to program the pid while I'm watching jeapordy and wheel of fortune. More to follow.

Update:
After letting the PID do it's thing, I set it to manual and took 5 gallons of water from 100 to 150 in 34 minutes, then set it to PID mode and let it hold temps. Everything seems to work just dandy with the setup. No leaks after over an hour and a half of pumping/heat.

 

[Spring_Chicken]

Any chance you can list the parts you used and costs?

Looking good.

 

[Punx Clever]

Ask and ye shall recieve:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AoAePys-pI6sdFVBRTdZRVpPZHFjVGJDRk80UmVpekE

I didn't include fittings other than the tri-clover, the pump, or enclosures (including heatsink for the relay) because everyone does things differently.

 

[Spring_Chicken]

Very nice! Thanks

 

[bendiy]

Nice to see it's working Punx. Do you think you are going to grind down the flange on the tube any or does the tri clover clamp fit tight enough to leave it as is?

I need to get my order into Brewers Hardware.

 

[Punx Clever]

Not sure yet. Grinding it down means unhooking the Electrics inside the box.... I'm gonna do a brew day and decide

 

[Punx Clever]

First brew going on right now... I gotta say, I like this setup. Didn't notice any spot boiling, no extra cables hanging around...

The pictures I posted earlier had a different temperature sensor than I'm using right now. The ports on the hot tub tube allowed me to mount a temperature sensor directly in the tube through the side of the box. very clean.

 

[CreekBrewery]

Awesome project Punx! I'm using my xmas and upcoming birthday money to build one of these badboys. Did you use the batch or no sparge method? I do batch right now with no RIMS but I'm interested to hear what works best with this setup.

 

[Punx Clever]

For yesterday's brew I did a batch sparge on an IPA. Seemed to go well. I think I hit 70% efficiency or something, but I didn't measure my final volume real accurately. I've just always done batch sparges, and figure why not keep doing it.

My advice... don't get a 12v pump. I swear that 12v march 809 was a steal at $55... but after rigging a power supply for it in the box and all the hassle it was...

 

[jusware]

Kudos for the ingenuity in using the spa tube. I'm glad to hear you made some progress. Too bad you can't get the electronics to work on it. Would be pretty slick to be able to hook your pump up to one of the outlets and be able to turn it on/off with the spa controls.

 

[CreekBrewery]

Reviewing your parts list because I'm about to make an order and I had a question about the temp sensor. You linked to a threaded RTD sensor. Did you not use the external themowell on the heater?

For my application I need to be able to move the sensor around so I was thinking of the Platinum RTD (RTD (PLT) Sensors : auberins.com, Temperature control solutions for home and industry) but maybe I'm missing something with your design and the sensor you chose works best.

 

[bendiy]

Just got my Tri-Clover fittings in from Brewers Hardware. I'm definitely going to grind down my flange. Maybe Punx was smaller, but I cannot get the Tri-Clover clamp on it as is. My flange is 2.75 (Edit 2 7/8) in diameter. I'm going to take off an 1/8 inch all around to bring it to the standard 2.5 (Edit 2 5/8)" diameter for 2" Tri-Clover fittings.

Here's what it looks like stock. I'll post some pics after I modify it.

 

[bendiy]

Here's some close ups of the sensors. There is a surface mounted temp sensor that slides under a little spring clamp thingy. There is also a pressure sensor. I need to tear this one apart to see how it works, but I think there is a float or something that presses on the sensor. There is also an adjustment wheel so you can fine tune the pressure setting.

I probably will not use the temp sensor like it is mounted here or at all, but it might work as a safety cut off to stop a dry fire. However, I think the pressure sensor will be used for this to detect water in the tube and maybe even if that water is flowing.