Hop creep question.

[Cynic]

Hello guys, so I just started brewing my first all grain batch and I am brewing a Zombie Dust clone. I intend to bottle into 0.33cl bottles and I use priming sugar for carbonation. I have no way of controlling the temperature of the brew so it will be fermenting in 18-20 °C. The recipe calls for 80 grams of Citra hops for the dryhopping stage and now I am worried that I will create bottle bombs because of hop creep. Any advice on this matter? How is it best to tackle this problem? I don't want my beer to end up under carbonated if I err too much on the side of caution. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[IslandLizard]

Just keep an eye on it.

Once they're carbonated perfectly, store all of them very cold, so any possible re-fermentation is curbed or stopped.

If you happen to experience over-carbonation, you can always crack the caps a tad, to relieve (some of) the headspace pressure. Then immediately recrimp.
It's good idea to have an extra set of hands around to do the recrimping.

BTW, hop creep doesn't always happen.

 

[Cynic]

Just keep an eye on it.

Once they're carbonated perfectly, store all of them very cold, so any possible re-fermentation is curbed or stopped.

If you happen to experience over-carbonation, you can always crack the caps a tad, to relieve (some of) the headspace pressure. Then immediately recrimp.
It's good idea to have an extra set of hands around to do the recrimping.

BTW, hop creep doesn't always happen.

Ok thank you.

 

[dmtaylor]

I've used the vent/recrimp method successfully many times in the past. This is, however, a last resort. With hoppy beers like this, I'll often/usually use less priming sugar than normal, about 85% as much as is recommended. Never had a problem with getting enough carbonation this way, and sometimes gushers still happen on occasion after longer aging.

If you're going to drink it all very fresh, all of this is much less of a concern. As soon as it's carbonated, drink it all up. That's another option.

 

[ncbrewer]

My fix for this problem has been Don't Dry Hop - I use hop stands instead. I know that's extreme, but it's just the way I am.

 

[IslandLizard]

My fix for this problem has been Don't Dry Hop - I use hop stands instead. I know that's extreme, but it's just the way I am.

Although it may work well for you in the styles of beer you brew, it's not a fix, or substitution. They're different processes with different outcomes.

Hop stands, added to the kettle after flameout, while the wort is still hot, warm, or sometimes chilled, give very different results from dry hops which are added to the beer after fermentation has finished. The hop stands tend to emphasize hop flavor while dry hops, aside from flavor, also boost aroma levels significantly.

 

[eric19312]

I think if you leave the beer on the dry hops for a week or so at room temp before bottling you should be fine. Some/most of the hop creep should happen in the fermentor and be fermented out by time you rack to bottling bucket and dose with priming sugar.

 

[ncbrewer]

Although it may work well for you in the styles of beer you brew, it's not a fix, or substitution. They're different processes with different outcomes.

I understand I'm giving up something - some of my beers would be better if I dry hopped. But to me, safety is more important than quality. To each his own.

 

[Cynic]

My fix for this problem has been Don't Dry Hop - I use hop stands instead. I know that's extreme, but it's just the way I am.

Well I did a hop stand and I am going to dry hop as well. I just want to figure out the best way to prevent bottle bombs which I guess is just to monitor it closely and drink one every few days to make sure that they aren't over carbonating. Not that frequency of drinking is going to be a big problem...

 

[IslandLizard]

I understand I'm giving up something - some of my beers would be better if I dry hopped.

Absolutely!
You're missing out some really good homebrewed beer experiences.

But to me, safety is more important than quality.

best way to prevent bottle bombs which I guess is just to monitor it closely

When you follow @eric19312's process in #7 the chance of post-dryhop fermentation due to hop creep is heavily reduced.

When bottling, also fill one or two (small, 12-18 oz) plastic soda bottles with your beer and let them be in a warm place. If there's any unwanted after-fermentation it will show up in those first. Test them for over-carbonation, the first after 1 week and the 2nd after 2 or 3 weeks.

 

[thefigure5]

Well I did a hop stand and I am going to dry hop as well. I just want to figure out the best way to prevent bottle bombs which I guess is just to monitor it closely and drink one every few days to make sure that they aren't over carbonating. Not that frequency of drinking is going to be a big problem...

@Cynic - How did it turn out? I dry-hopped a brew 11 days ago, which restarted fermentation in the 17-19 °C temperature range. It's still churning. I'm wondering if you bottled yet.