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I'm not sure I follow much of this, especially how you go from 3 phase to 2 phase. What are you calling 2 phase? It's usually 3 phase or single phase. Getting confused in this area can get you injured or killed. No reason to buy a 3 phase element (industrial level electricity used in big machines) and rewiring it if you are planning to use it in a residential system. Buy a standard 240 volt element on amazon international shipping (cheap shipping) and when you install in on 200v you'll get quite a bit of drop but it will work. My 4400 watt element puts out about 3300 watts and it is plenty for a 20 liter batch system.

Thanks Guzz, I look forward to the pictures.

Unfortunately, I believe the wiring in my apartment dates back before the Meiji Revolution, so the most I get is 15 amps on any one circuit, 30 total for the whole apartment! I'm not gonna be going electric any time soon, methinks. I'm still interested in seeing your setup, as I love gear porn as much as the next brewer.

Tek, there is such a thing as two-phase power, just nobody ever uses it. WIKI-POWER!

Hmm... I wonder if I can automate a gas-fired system.
 
Thanks Guzz, I look forward to the pictures.

Unfortunately, I believe the wiring in my apartment dates back before the Meiji Revolution, so the most I get is 15 amps on any one circuit, 30 total for the whole apartment! I'm not gonna be going electric any time soon, methinks. I'm still interested in seeing your setup, as I love gear porn as much as the next brewer.

Tek, there is such a thing as two-phase power, just nobody ever uses it. WIKI-POWER!

Hmm... I wonder if I can automate a gas-fired system.

Yeah, I goggled that too so I would not be a complete idiot if I were corrected.:cross: I meant that in Japan, I was only familiar with single phase (単相)and 3 phase (三相). If he bought something in Japan that was two phase, hmmmm. That's all. It's important to be safe, that's all.
 
Hi all,

I almost got all my stuff to start for my first brew.
Still have got a few questions:

1) the morgan australian lager extract comes with some instructions from brewland themselves. They give a few suggestions about using less water and sugar. The kit originally states like 23 liters, but i am thinking of going with only 17. Also they require some amount of sugar. Tektonjp suggested before not to add any, but I think I am gonna try with a little bit my first time. Is just normal sugar you can buy in the local supermarket sufficient?

2) i got a separate lager yeast as well for this extract, but how do you calculate the amount necessary for your brew? Is there some kind of x grams per y liter rule? I am guessing that every yeast is different, so how would I get the right amount?

3) still havent found a place to get an auto-siphon, any suggestions?

4) temp control: i do not have a fermentation chamber, so how do you usually keep your temperature stabile during two weeks of fermentation? Any cheap solutions/suggestions?

Thanks in advance!
Wim
 
4) temp control: i do not have a fermentation chamber, so how do you usually keep your temperature stabile during two weeks of fermentation? Any cheap solutions/suggestions?

I brew with what I call a 'modified swamp cooler'. It's about as simple as it gets, but it works perfectly. I have a 60l plastic garbage can with a lid that I put my 6.5 gallon carboy into. I pour water around the carboy, and I have an aquarium heater to keep that water at whatever temperature I choose. I put the lid on to retain as much heat as possible, but I had to cut a hole in the lid to make room for the airlock.

I live up in Fukushima and it gets pretty cold here. I keep it in my un-insulated genkan all throughout the winter and it keeps temps within to within 1.5C of my setting. Total cost was about 3000円.

IMG_2270.jpg
 
Hey snow16, that setup looks really awesome! I think I will try something similar for now.
Does the aquarium temp controller also cool down the water in summer?
 
No, unfortunately it doesn't do that - although keeping your carboy in plain old water does help to keep the temp down, and constant, when the weather starts to warm up a little. I'm still trying to find a very economical way (I also don't have a lot of space) to keep my fermenter cool, because as things are now I can't brew from June-October.
 
Tektonjp,

My bad. :smack:You are absolutely correct. Single phase is the correct term for standard japanese house wiring. Yes, you are right that mistakes with electricity can get you killed. I am always super careful to ground everything and to check everything with a volt meter before starting to use it for real.

I also agree that using a domestic water heater ordered through Amazon international is probably the best way to go. The problem was I tried to get a water heater through ebay and direct from suppliers but the shipping was crazy expensive, and I never checked Amazon International for something like a hot water heating element. So I went the ghetto route and used what I have.

Converting from 3 phase to single phase however is not difficult when it comes to simple resistor type heating elements (http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Convert-3-phase-water-heater-to-single-phase2.pdf). The major concern with such a conversion is that the conversion will draw more amperage (3 times the current draw on single phase vs 3 phase (http://www.build.com.au/single-phase-vs-three-phase)) than your system can provide and trip your breaker. Anything more complicated than a simple heating element such as a motor is much more difficult however.
 
Fencdar,
If you live in an older house you are probably right not to use the existing power supply. Most are rated for 15- 30 Amps and none will have a 200V outlet (unless you have an electric hot water heater or a socket for a 200V air conditioner. You can tell if you have a 200V service by looking at your breaker box there should be a dedicated 200V breaker in there in addition to your main and secondary breaker(s).

I'm sure there is a way to automatize a gas fired system- How about the controller from an ofuro? That's got a temperature control system- not sure how accurate it is- but say you use a HERMS set-up and so your beer is being heated indirectly by the ofuro hot water... You could even fire it with kerosene which is a bunch cheaper than gas...

:drunk:

Woah, Rat hole!
 
Snow,

Nice set-up. Nothing like keeping it simple. I've got a neighbor that has just started doing the same thing. The only thing I'd warn you of is some garbage cans can't handle being full of water all the time and crack.- which would flood your genkan- and perhaps melt your fermenter- if the aquarium heater touched it in it's unsubmerged/ uncooled state.

I had a similar failure with an aquarium sump. The mess wasn't pretty.

I switched to a different garbage can that was really flexible- and had no further problems. YMMV.

One way you could cool that in the summer is to throw an occasional ice pack in, but better would be grab an old fridge (everyone knows somebody who is moving and needs to get rid of a fridge right?) and a $20.00 (free shipping) temperature controller from ebay(http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-110V-22...t=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item51cd6059fb). Make sure and get the one for 110V- the 220V one will need to be modified- ask me how I know about this...

You can even use the freezer compartment for storing hops and stuff.
 
Hey all,

Seems like keeping it cool in the summer would be a problem with snow16's setup. I had been looking around a bit and reading up on that stc-1000 controller, but has anyone tried this here? I think in japan outlets hardly have any earth. Would the wiring be the same as in most US tutorials? Anyone any experience with this? Also it seems hard to find a descent project box here in Japan...

Lastly, has anyone ever considered using these old Sake jugs for fermenting?
http://page5.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/e155175206
They seem to go for 2500-5000 and can contain 20-30l.

Getting closer to my first (full extract) brew.

Best,
Wim
 
Much appreciated Guzzibrew. It's a pretty sturdy/flexible garbage can, so hopefully I won't have a disaster like that. I think the heater will automatically turn itself off when not submerged, too.

As to cooling in summer, I was just at a second hand place looking at fridges. Couldn't find anything of an appropriate size/price, but will keep an eye out because I can't go another summer without brewing. Ice packs are a good start and I will use them if I don't have another setup by then, but I really need an old fridge.

I have absolutely zero experience with wiring/electrical stuff. Is hooking up and old fridge with temp control something I could do pretty easily/safely without putting myself or my house in too much danger?!
 
Wim we must have been writing posts at the same time - looks like we have a few of the same questions...
 
Hi all,

I almost got all my stuff to start for my first brew.
Still have got a few questions:

1) the morgan australian lager extract comes with some instructions from brewland themselves. They give a few suggestions about using less water and sugar. The kit originally states like 23 liters, but i am thinking of going with only 17. Also they require some amount of sugar. Tektonjp suggested before not to add any, but I think I am gonna try with a little bit my first time. Is just normal sugar you can buy in the local supermarket sufficient?

2) i got a separate lager yeast as well for this extract, but how do you calculate the amount necessary for your brew? Is there some kind of x grams per y liter rule? I am guessing that every yeast is different, so how would I get the right amount?

3) still havent found a place to get an auto-siphon, any suggestions?

4) temp control: i do not have a fermentation chamber, so how do you usually keep your temperature stabile during two weeks of fermentation? Any cheap solutions/suggestions?

Thanks in advance!
Wim

Wim,
1. Yes, normal table sugar is used. FYI, in "normal bewing", having up to about 10 percent of the fermentables as simple sugars will not alter your basic taste profile except to help dry it out a little. But, as I said before, it's your beer. Personally, since I've been there with kits, I'd rather have 10 liters of decent beer rather than 20 of thin cidery beer. Just my opinion.

2. Use the whole packet even if brewing a half batch. Since you're brewing a lager and using a lager yeast, you want to keep it a bit cooler during the process, and so you'd need, in theory, more yeast. I just finished a german lager, 20l, and used two packets of lager yeast as I fermented at 12c.

4. During this spring weather, someplace with a fairly constant temperature, like the closet or genkan.
 
Hi Wim!

Such a slick production... looks like a commercial web site, humm, maybe better than most, come to think of it.

I was, however, stimulated by it (and your post too) so today I finally ordered a controller... I am not sure if I will use his design or not... (the box looks kind of weak & flimsy, but it might be good for awhile).

Are you thinking about making one too?

Ray
 
Hi Ray,
I actually already made one.
I have no experience with electric stuff, but I like diy allot. I used a different type of box from the 100 yen shop. cutting out the holes is the hardest part. I used a drill and a file for it.
For the outlets I got two separate single outlets with a frame to plug them in. Wires and a wire cutter I got from the home center and the stc1000 I got of the Japanese amazon(2300 yen all in). Also got an extension cord for 100 yen.

Seemed like Japan had no grounding so the wiring is really easy.

Best,
Wim
 
Hi Ray,
For the outlets I got two separate single outlets with a frame to plug them in.

So you did it like the article?
I noticed some 2 in 1 outlets (shown in other's work) have a removable piece that connects the two outlets top & bottom, on both sides, one side which needs to be removed... but in the newer one's I saw today, that area is out of sight and thus out of reach(?); Is this the reason for choosing 2 singles rather than a single with two built in?

Seemed like Japan had no grounding so the wiring is really easy.

I wonder if there is any advantage in getting ones with ground plug holes & or Earth wire screws....


Ray
 
Hi Ray,

Yes, most of the outlets I found in the home center are of the quickwire type. Since I didn't know how to open a double outlet up, I just got two single ones.
You basically just plug in the wire till you hit a lever inside the hole and it will keep your wire there.

I don't know about grounding here, but all outlets at my place don't have a plug for the grounding. If yours has, you might consider it. It's probably safer that easy. You will just need to add a few extra wires. Just like the US versions.

I added some attachments with what mine looks like.

Best,
Wim

IMAG0942.jpg


IMAG0943.jpg


IMAG0944.jpg
 
Ok,

Thanks for the pictures.

Another choice are outlets with the 1 tall & 1 short plug holes and those where the holes are equall in height... (not yet having the device the stc will controll - makes things much less clear which to choose!)
 
So, today I tried my first brew.
After chilling the wort from the extract, I poured it into this old glass sake container which I was gonna use for fermentation.
And when I tried lifting the container up again (with about 11 liters of wort), the bottom of the container just cracked off... and the wort all got down the gutter.:(

Gotta get me a new supply to try my first brew. I still got the lager yeast which I re-hydrated, but temperatures are rising here in Japan, so would it best to switch to an ale-type of beer? I do not think I will be able to control lager yeast fermentation temperature that well the coming months. Any suggestions? Also suggestions for a new fermentation container?

As a consolation for today's event, I opened me one of those Duvel Tripel Hops.

Best,
Wim

2015-04-05 17.45.41.jpg


2015-04-05 17.56.59.jpg
 
Man that truly sucks but at least you aren't quitting and you seem to have a positive attitude. You have to learn from your mistakes; I was going to use one of those sake jugs to ferment in but now I know not to. So, thanks for saving my brew :) You can use lots of things to ferment in to include plastic that is food safe. I use plastic buckets and car-boys. You can even go with out using a lid but I would suggest using something like a cheese cloth over the top to keep things out.

I would also suggest to use an ale strain of yeast for your first time. I think it is easier for a first time brew. Good luck on the next brew and keep at it.
 
Mooh,

I don't know if you still need a fermentor, but I've got a couple of plastic ones that I'm not using anymore.

If you want them they are yours for the cost of shipping from Kyushu. No idea how much that would be.

One is an older plastic one I bought in Canada a while back (It looks like it holds about 15 L (it has a conical neck so you'd need a bung) and the other is just a 20L pickles bucket I picked up at a home center.

The pickle bucket has a hole in the lid for an airlock(it is air tight) and a hole on the side at the bottom with a plastic valve installed- it doesn't leak and works- barely. But it doesn't flow that well. I'd replace it, but since I'm not going to use it anymore I've decided not to.

I've started to ferment in my corny kegs and that just seems to be a whole lot easier and I can ferment under pressure and transfer under CO2 so I'm stoked.

Let me know if you want the fermentors, and I'll post them off to you.

GB
 
Really happy you didn't get cut with that glass! See HBT threads about glass carboy safety for some horror stories! I don't think I ever want to use glass for anything unless it is long-term aging.

I have been using PUBKEG bottles for my fermenters since September and I highly recommend them! You need to pick up both the bottle and the bucket that it comes in from a craft brew place that serves imports. Contact them and they will likely be more than happy to get rid of it for free. Ask for a USA import, most of them are in pubkegs (vs other brands of one-way kegs) - these are easiest to disassemble for use as fermenters.

Instruction videos are on youtube but basically you just need to depress the valve to release pressure from the keg. Tip it sideways first to avoid a blast of beer/sediment/yeast, or cover the valve with a cloth first to catch the mess. Afterwards, use a large set of pliers (the type that has adjustable width jaw/channelock type) to grip the outside of the valve, and turn it counterclockwise. It is tight and will move very slow at first, but its better to go slow than to crush the bottle trying to move fast. If there is any pressure left, it will automatically release through a channel in the threads when you get it partially unscrewed, so don't stress too much about that. Once the valve is off, just clean out the keg and you are ready to go! The bottles take large rubber stoppers just the same as most carboys. If you really want to get creative you could try doing that all aseptically and just drop your wort onto the commercial yeast in the keg! Some have lots of yeast to go on if they are unfiltered.

Cheers!
 
Wim,
Sorry for your bad luck, but it looks like you have some good options... thanks to Guzzibrew and Bendan!

I am still having a bit of indecesion about the wiring of my STC-1000.
Could you walk me through your wiring?
(I can't see behind the screw caps in your pix)
(Where are your power cord wires going?
Are you using a "U" shape to bridge the two outlets on one side?

I think I have right, but want to compare before plugging in for the first time.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions and comments.
As for now I still have the fermentation bucket that came with the starter set. I will try using this one for my next try.
I really wouldn't recommend any of the sake-bottles to anyone. I think they are not made anymore in Japan, and the ones sold on Yahoo Auctions are probably fairly old and haven't been kept clean.

I googled a bit about those PUBKEGs, they seem really neat. Also easy to store since they are fairly small. Would fit perfectly in the closet. Could you tell me where you got yours, Brendan? I might mail them too if they can send one or two for payment upon delivery.

Also I am still undecided about what extract I should try next. I think I might just go a step up and get a DME, with maybe some extra hops. I am also undecided about the type of beer, but I am thinking something Pale Ale-ish. If anyone has any good ideas for a start recipe, please do let me know.

Blue-Frog, I will take some extra pics when I get home today or during the weekend and give some explanation on what I did. It truly is not a big deal. I have not tried to run it for a long-time yet, but with some tests everything worked just fine.

Best,
Wim
 
Those pubkegs look great! What breweries use them here in Japan? I want to get my hands on one or two! I wonder if any of the breweries here in Fukuoka use them?

How tall are they compared to a standard tall corny? I wonder if they'd fit in my keezer.

My only concern would be that the threads might not stand up to repeated opening and closings, but if they are free.... :ban:

You also need sankey couplers- but they are cheap enough on yahoo auction.
 
Blue-Frog,

Please check the attachment for how I wired the STC 1000.
The numbers indicate the order I wired the unit.
As for the outlets, I use no bridge at all. My understanding is to avoid a bridge between the two, I have just 2 separate quick wire outlets but had a separate mount (don't know the official name) to fit them in so I could screw them to my casing.

Best,
Wim

stc1000 wires.jpg
 
Thanks Wim.

Thats what I had, I think. I will check my current design and make sure.
I am sure that in some of the UTubes it is clearly stated one side is linked and the other must not be...(I guess in a way, the neutral sides are bridged by 8 & 9 being joined in 10.)

JFYI... and other people who might BE or GET confused...
I think you made a typo (?):
Your 9 should say "heating" (not "cooling")
and
Your 3 should say "cooling" (not "heating")

Well, I will finish re-viewing everything and hook it up and see what happens!
------------------------------------------------------

RE PUB KEGS
Are they (the internal vessel) like 20 L Coke bottles?
I couldn't tell their capacity by the images, but by coincidence, I did see some empty, new 4L PET bottles today as well as 3 or 3.5L. ones.

I too would like to know who actually has these Pub Kegs on hand....
------------------------------------------------------

Guzzibrew,
Do you think the bucket with a valve (that works but poorly),
could work for bottle filling?

In any case I need a bucket with a valve.
If you still want to part with them I might be interested....

bf
 
Wim,

The STC is up and running... everything seems to be working correctly.
Thanks for your help.

Now I want to try and make an extra sensor....
 
Those pubkegs look interesting. Personally, I use a 15 galling keg, but those seem interesting enough. My thought are about the hole size in the internal vessel. Is that problematic? Also, I couldn't help but wonder if heating tape or pads fit between the inner vessel and the outside bucket? Seems like an awesome efficient way to control temp...
 
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