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gibo

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Hi trying to drill holes in my kettle to fit a element, trying with a step bit got to 1/2"and now won't go further it just glows red and frightened its going to wreck the stanles steel, any suggestion will be appreciated
 
The half-inch step is fried and the hole has been hardened.

You'll at least need a fresh step bit, cutting oil, lots of pressure and very slow turning (like 10 rpm - really slow).
You might be able to use the old bit once you get past the half-inch diameter...

Cheers!
 
IIRC, I used a punch from harbor freight to make the holes in mine. You can bolt it together through the hole you've got started and end up with a clean hole of the proper diameter. The punch set has come in handy for other brewing related projects and I think it cost around $30.
 
Thank you for your reply, what is the punch called so I can search for it
 
Thank you for your reply, what is the punch called so I can search for it


This one?

https://www.harborfreight.com/knockout-punch-kit-10-pc-60575.html?_br_psugg_q=knockout+punch+kit

That's the only one I saw for $30. I didn't see stainless listed in the description though. They have a $100 hydraulic punch that would fit the bill, but it's $100.


I had no problem using a step bit on my old Bayou Classic kettle when I wanted to add a port for a thermo. The larger and thicker Concord kettle I had though was a much different story. it was pretty much what you mentioned now. I never could get the hole drilled and had to result in getting a new bit and using cutting oil.
 
This one?

https://www.harborfreight.com/knockout-punch-kit-10-pc-60575.html?_br_psugg_q=knockout+punch+kit

That's the only one I saw for $30. I didn't see stainless listed in the description though. They have a $100 hydraulic punch that would fit the bill, but it's $100.


I had no problem using a step bit on my old Bayou Classic kettle when I wanted to add a port for a thermo. The larger and thicker Concord kettle I had though was a much different story. it was pretty much what you mentioned now. I never could get the hole drilled and had to result in getting a new bit and using cutting oil.
Yeah thats the set I have and it definitely works on stainless, I used it to enlarge dozens of holes in the Bayou steamer basket, which I don't use that anymore because a false bottom works better.

Actually, now that I think about it I seem to remember drilling the element holes. Maybe the closest punch in the set was a bit too large and might cause a leak?

It's cheaper and probably wiser to just get yourself another stepped drill bit to finish the job. Go slow and use cutting fluid as suggested above. The punch set is nice for other things but it's not like you're going to be punching a bunch of element holes anyway. Mess one of those up and its time for another new kettle :eek:

Edit: I just remembered why the punch set won't work for installing electric heating elements. That particular punch set is intended to punch holes for running conduit; the 1" size isn't actually 1" but oversized to accommodate 1" ID conduit. The oversized hole would prevent the oring from making good contact and a reliable seal. Sorry I brought it up.
 
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I checked out harbor freight br they won't ship to Canada and the same one up here is '$250
 
i think at this point its best to just get another step bit. slow rpms, some oil to lubricate and you'll get it done.
 
IMO, this is scary as I had to drill and make multiple holes in my beautiful Blichmann Boilermaker Kettles. I had 1 chance to get this right. Screw it up and the kettle was useless. Slowly drill a hole big enough using cutting oil, then finish the job with a quality punch (GreenLee).

Results?
Electric Brewery.jpg


If you are closeby, you are welcome to borrow my GreenLee punches (I used 3 different types building my brewery).
 
If you've had the edge of the hole glowing red already, you will probably have trouble getting even a new bit to bite into that work hardened edge. When you drill stainless, every singe rotation of the bit needs to be making slivers or chips of metal. You were going way to fast and not pushing hard enough. A conduit or knockout punch has the benefit of making the cut well outside of the work hardened edge. The finished hole side needs to be 1-1/4" but be aware that you need a radio punch which is sized to cut that exact size. NOT a conduit punch.
 
Yesfan, we planned to attend a wedding in Cleveland in August with the reception at Great Lakes Brewing Company. D**n virus. Whom know what will now happen.

If your cousin has a similar setup, then he should have the GreenLee punches.
 
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LOL! Now that I remember he does have the GreenLee punches. He built his controller, but has the same Blichmann kettles.


Sorry for the off topic OP.
 
Another thing to consider is a tungsten carbide saw hole. They work like magic. I've done horrible hack jobs with step bits, i really hate those things... though i concede some people seem to do just fine with them so i'm sure it's user error. I built a new pot recently and used a hole saw with a regular drill. It goes through like butter (admittedly this is a bayou classic SS kettle, not the thickest) and holes are near machine quality. It's way cheaper than a hole punch as well.

https://www.amazon.com/EZARC-Carbid...=tungsten+carbide+13/16&qid=1587685292&sr=8-4

there are cheaper ones out there as well.
 
Step bits are the worst possible way to make holes in stainless.

greenlee (not HF) punches or carbide hole saws.
 
Meh, I've done as much. NBD.
Anyway, there's a pilot bit inside the carbide cutter circumference.
Once that's through the bit isn't going to wander far, even though it sounds like it's murdering that metal ;)

Cheers!
 
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