High Gravity BIAB Electric Brewing System

[augiedoggy]

I can't find the post where someone tore apart the controller and showed the components. Can you share a link?

it was a series of posts actually in another thread... there were no pics (if you read everything Ive been saying you would see thats why im asking for one.)
I'm not going to search for it myself. I already read it. if you use the search function you will find it.

 

[lump42]

it was a series of posts actually in another thread... there were no pics (if you read everything Ive been saying you would see thats why im asking for one.)
I'm not going to search for it myself. I already read it. if you use the search function you will find it.

There is no need to get defensive. I haven't read this entire thread as it is quite lengthy. I did search for it and was unable to find it. I thought since you mentioned it several times that you might be able to direct us to your reference.

 

[augiedoggy]

There is no need to get defensive. I haven't read this entire thread as it is quite lengthy. I did search for it and was unable to find it. I thought since you mentioned it several times that you might be able to direct us to your reference.

Sorry. heres a thread where someone with one chimed in. although this one states the stuff is epoxied in (permanently) making it really tough to repair anything but safer as least.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=494787&highlight=high+gravity+brewing&page=4

Until someone actually opens one up so we can see how and what is used no one knows for sure since some people may know less about what they are looking at than others. Also theres a good chance they have improves things over time from earlier problems as the quoted email suggests.

 

[pretzelb]

Sorry. heres a thread where someone with one chimed in. although this one states the stuff is epoxied in (permanently) making it really tough to repair anything but safer as least.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=494787&highlight=high+gravity+brewing&page=4

Until someone actually opens one up so we can see how and what is used no one knows for sure since some people may know less about what they are looking at than others. Also theres a good chance they have improves things over time from earlier problems as the quoted email suggests.

As someone who is ignorant on this topic but has read your posts in several threads, it does sound like you have an issue HG.

You hold firm on the negative opinion based on what you can see, which is fine. But you then add to that with info that you can't confirm or see. You won't believe the happy customers based on their feedback because they don't show you anything, but you believe the one person who have negative feedback, yet never provided anything you could see either. You basically play it both ways to suit your opinion.

IMHO you'd have more impact if you just stuck with the facts and with the features compared to other similar panels. I have no idea how to recognize the cost of the parts by just looking at the pictures but if they really add up to what you say then just keep pointing that out along with better priced equal function products. Bringing up the mystery speaker wire rumor and being dramatic about no one showing the insides over and over again doesn't really help.

 

[augiedoggy]

As someone who is ignorant on this topic but has read your posts in several threads, it does sound like you have an issue HG.

You hold firm on the negative opinion based on what you can see, which is fine. But you then add to that with info that you can't confirm or see. You won't believe the happy customers based on their feedback because they don't show you anything, but you believe the one person who have negative feedback, yet never provided anything you could see either. You basically play it both ways to suit your opinion.

IMHO you'd have more impact if you just stuck with the facts and with the features compared to other similar panels. I have no idea how to recognize the cost of the parts by just looking at the pictures but if they really add up to what you say then just keep pointing that out along with better priced equal function products. Bringing up the mystery speaker wire rumor and being dramatic about no one showing the insides over and over again doesn't really help.

Thats what people stated they found in their panels here I dont own one so cant confirm that... but the cheesy build quality along with the low budget components paired with such high purchase costs SHOULD be enough of a deterrent to most.

I dont need to have any impact, I have no personal stake in them one way or the other, I think they are a ripoff and state what Ive read HERE about them as well as what I can confirm about them. I let people here take ALL that info and use it as they see fit.

Why revive yet another thread on this when we are both posting in the other already.

 

[IowaHomeBrewer]

Again, spoken from someone who personally owns a HG system and uses it to brew 5/6 batches a month - it works great. No speculation needed... and no it isn't over priced for someone like me who does not have the skill set to build their own.

They provide a service, and for that service the market sets the price. Consider me the market, and I was OK with the price.

Therefore, it is not overpriced.

 

[pretzelb]

Thats what people stated they found in their panels here I dont own one so cant confirm that... but the cheesy build quality along with the low budget components paired with such high purchase costs SHOULD be enough of a deterrent to most.

This is a good example. I'm not sure what you mean by this but it sounds contradictory. You can't confirm what other found but in the same sentence you almost announce that the build quality is cheesy. AFAIK you believe the build quality to be poor based on something you haven't confirmed. You've mentioned that build quality as an issue nearly as much as your visual evaluation of the components, which gives them equal weight to the casual reader. You can't confirm it but you often bring it up as a negative along side what you can confirm. This is having your cake and eating it too.

If your evaluation of the components is accurate, and your price comparison to similar products is relevant, then THAT SHOULD be enough to make your case without relying on the hyperbole.

I say all this just so you know how it sounds. I thought it might explain to you the feedback you are getting.

 

[augiedoggy]

Double post.

 

[augiedoggy]

This is a good example. I'm not sure what you mean by this but it sounds contradictory. You can't confirm what other found but in the same sentence you almost announce that the build quality is cheesy. AFAIK you believe the build quality to be poor based on something you haven't confirmed. You've mentioned that build quality as an issue nearly as much as your visual evaluation of the components, which gives them equal weight to the casual reader. You can't confirm it but you often bring it up as a negative along side what you can confirm. This is having your cake and eating it too.

If your evaluation of the components is accurate, and your price comparison to similar products is relevant, then THAT SHOULD be enough to make your case without relying on the hyperbole.

I say all this just so you know how it sounds. I thought it might explain to you the feedback you are getting.

What are you talking about,
It Is cheesy because of the super cheap 50 cent switches and homedepot enclosure accompanied with the either epoxy or hot glue gun relay installation which I'm confident from multiple people mentioning this is being used.... Did you not see the pic kal posted? If this was a $4-500 panel I would be a bit less critical of the shortcuts and cheap component used.And until seeing kals picture I only had another member heres testimony and complaints to go on since no one will look.
I have a much more complicated budget built control panel that cost me under $300 to build and I used cheaper yet properly rated components.... If I were to start selling these at $2,000 a piece which would be on par with the markups HG is charging for the $150 in components they assemble I would expect someone to call me out on taking advantage and overcharging.... My panel would be cheesy too at that kind of price point.

 

[augiedoggy]

Again, spoken from someone who personally owns a HG system and uses it to brew 5/6 batches a month - it works great. No speculation needed... and no it isn't over priced for someone like me who does not have the skill set to build their own.

They provide a service, and for that service the market sets the price. Consider me the market, and I was OK with the price.

Therefore, it is not overpriced.

Whether it work or not can have little to do with whether it's built poorly or overpriced...
They are priced higher that the "market " when you compared pretty much every other sold solution out there...
A brewboss for example had more time and effort put into its development than just coping someone here's generic DIY build and building one for $150 and selling at a 600% markup over component cost.
You can buy a gold plated chain for $50 and it will "Work" just as well as a real one but wouldn't you be pissed if you paid $900 for that chain only to find it was good plated copper?
If we see a gold chain advertise for $50 we expect it to be cheap and gold plated... If it was $900 we expect it to be solid gold.... Same principle applies here... If it's being sold for $900 it shouldn't be thrown together as cheaply as possible with the cheapest parts available costing a fraction of that.

 

[IowaHomeBrewer]

Oh hello speculation, great to see you again.

 

[augiedoggy]

Oh hello speculation, great to see you again.

What speculation exactly? The only thing im not sure of is how the relays are secured... I've read twice now in two different threads here that they are glued in. are there screw holes on the back? if not they are likely glued unless you know another way to secure them... Its possible they used din mount components and glued the din rail but I highly doubt that considering the cheap nature of all other components used. plus the photo Kal shared does not show this.

I AM sure on everything else including component costs.

whatever makes you feel better about your purchase I guess.
How about the speculations made based on the fact its still working and youve had no issues yet? wow a bit hypocritical huh?

 

[Brumateur]

Augiedoggy

I simply asked HGB owners what size their unit was
as i am looking for a way to hang it on a wall

And you came right out and bashed High Gravity products

So, it certainly looks like you have an ax to grind.

I have not made my purchase yet, still looking, there are others out there

And i stated that I have received Great Customer service from Dave at HG
While i have not gotten ANY replies to several emails from Brumatic

Brumatics product looks great - and hey i would save $300 vs EBC III
Two elements vs one !

But, i am not going to drop over $500 buck on Ebay
and wait for a delivery that is 3 months out - because he has never replied to an email

I am only pointing out that Brumatic needs to up his Customer Service game
?????

my 2 cents

I was out of country for half a year , so that's why I set 3 month waiting time (I had a chance to be back at home every 2 month)
As about e-mails I always answered e-mails sent from eBay or brumatic.com. I haven't got any such e-mails from you. This site was banned at place were I was so I wasn't able to read HBT private messages.

I'm back now and will start normal operation next week. Lead time is about 2-3 weeks.

Regards,
Alex

 

[DaveKnott]

This is Dave from High Gravity. I don't post much, in fact I had to reset my password to login.

We have always let our customers speak about their own experience with us and our products. A happy customer might tell a friend or two. An unhappy one will tell the world.

We build controllers for people that don't want to build their own. We have been building controllers for a decade, and we are always improving them.

We take care of everything we build as long as you own it. If you have a nine year old controller and have a problem, all you have to do is send it to me. We'll repair it and send it right back.

We have always favored analog power control for the kettle vs manual control mode on a PID using up/down arrows. All of our controllers feature this, and there was a time (until around 5 years ago) when we built our own power control module with discrete components (TRIAC based with a DIAC trigger for symmetrical firing). We did use a short run of 10 gauge speaker wire during part of this period because it was much easier to solder to the board. These days we use a 40A SSVR for the 240V controllers, and a 25A SSVR for the 120V controllers.

Some of our controllers also have mechanical relays (we have not glued them in for several years). In some models these relays are used to switch the other hot leg off when the heat is switched off to ensure that the receptacle is completely de-energized when the heat switch is off. Some controllers out there only switch one of the hot legs. The EBC III-D uses a 30A double-pole relay to switch the HLT heat on/off, and a 25A relay for the Pump1 output in case you want to plug a 120V RIMS heating element in instead. Mechanical relays are used where switching is infrequent, and normally last for many years. If one fails we replace it.

The cost of the components for any of our controllers vs the retail price of the finished unit is in line with typical retail store pricing, and we still have to put them together. You can save money if you want to build it yourself, and your time is free. You may just enjoy designing/building it.

There are now many choices available for those who would rather not build their own controller. We know a lot of the guys putting these together, and we all have our own approach. You should take a look at all of them and decide what fits you best.

 

[augiedoggy]

This is Dave from High Gravity. I don't post much, in fact I had to reset my password to login.

We have always let our customers speak about their own experience with us and our products. A happy customer might tell a friend or two. An unhappy one will tell the world.

We build controllers for people that don't want to build their own. We have been building controllers for a decade, and we are always improving them.

We take care of everything we build as long as you own it. If you have a nine year old controller and have a problem, all you have to do is send it to me. We'll repair it and send it right back.

We have always favored analog power control for the kettle vs manual control mode on a PID using up/down arrows. All of our controllers feature this, and there was a time (until around 5 years ago) when we built our own power control module with discrete components (TRIAC based with a DIAC trigger for symmetrical firing). We did use a short run of 10 gauge speaker wire during part of this period because it was much easier to solder to the board. These days we use a 40A SSVR for the 240V controllers, and a 25A SSVR for the 120V controllers.

Some of our controllers also have mechanical relays (we have not glued them in for several years). In some models these relays are used to switch the other hot leg off when the heat is switched off to ensure that the receptacle is completely de-energized when the heat switch is off. Some controllers out there only switch one of the hot legs. The EBC III-D uses a 30A double-pole relay to switch the HLT heat on/off, and a 25A relay for the Pump1 output in case you want to plug a 120V RIMS heating element in instead. Mechanical relays are used where switching is infrequent, and normally last for many years. If one fails we replace it.

The cost of the components for any of our controllers vs the retail price of the finished unit is in line with typical retail store pricing, and we still have to put them together. You can save money if you want to build it yourself, and your time is free. You may just enjoy designing/building it.

There are now many choices available for those who would rather not build their own controller. We know a lot of the guys putting these together, and we all have our own approach. You should take a look at all of them and decide what fits you best.

Thank you for being honest and setting the record straight. Its good to here they have been improved on and the issues addressed.

 

[steveoatley]

Thanks for the input Dave !!!

 

[TKH]

Dave, thanks for sharing. I've been looking at your setups and it seems you've got a great product that, to me, is very worth it. I'd rather be out on the boat than trying to put a controller together!

 

[Yahootie]

I will be contacting Dave at HGB very soon!

 

[steveoatley]

I will be contacting Dave at HGB very soon!

I will as well, just waiting for that X-Mas bonus to come in.....


Steve

 

[johnsant]

Got an email from High Gravity the other day. As with most things we buy we like our freebies, with purchase of eBIAB sys. will receive a free refractometer and mash paddle till the end of November. Can't wait for my first SS check on 25 November.

 

[Beavdowg]

I've had mine for a year, last month was a year since it was delivered. At times I wish I had gone bigger than the 62 liter kettle though. Had I waited the detachable Blichmann elements would be what I definitely would get.

Screwy, Why would you get the Blichmann element if you could do it over again?

 

[elerten]

I have HG blichmann breweasy 10 gallon electric system. Brewed about 150 gallons on it. Saved about 300 bucks total using there EBC III Sv controller. Vs the blichmann controller. Works great haven't had any issues. I'm not sure the noise people say they are hearing running it, mine doesn't make any noise turning on and off.

 

[ScrewyBrewer]

Screwy, Why would you get the Blichmann element if you could do it over again?

@Beavdowg Mainly because the newer Blichmann element disconnects easily from the kettle, making cleaning the system easier. The 220v element that shipped with my unit, is connected to the kettle using a large nut and an o-ring, it's not the easiest thing to remove and replace.

 

[Beavdowg]

Screwy, how does the boilcoil disconnect? I went on their website but can't visualize how it easily disconnects. I'm comparing it to the Brew Boss heater element that just disconnects using a triclamp fitting. Seems easy as can be.

 

[elerten]

Boil coil is 2 small holes. to remove the coil from the pot. and the electric disconnect is just a big push block thing. it removes really easy to move the pot to clean it.

 

[kaffeenjunkie]

Just about a year using my HG system. Brewing couple times a month. Everything I needed from kettle to controller came in one box. Simple neat, easy, no muss, no fuss. Couldn't be happier, glad I got so"ripped off."
When I had an issue, Dave stood behind his product.

Auggiedoggie would apparently DIY his own axe just to grind it.

 

[Beavdowg]

From what I've gathered though you have to unscrew the coil from the pot to clean it. Is this correct?

 

[elerten]

Yea its 2 9/16 nuts that hold the studs that poke thru the kettle wall. I've never removed mine to clean it. Pbw a little heat and then spray it off.

 

[IowaHomeBrewer]

Super easy to clean. Throw some pbw in. Fill with water. Heat to 160 for a couple hours. Just wipes clean.

 

[Beavdowg]

I don't want to spend 2 hours cleaning my brewing gear!