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HERMS/RIMS on the cheap?

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theck

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I was wondering if anyone is doing this?
cheap-mash-recirculation.jpg

I found a blog (http://www.lootcorp.com/tag/herms/) with someone who was going to do it but there aren't any results of it. Searching around I can't find any other examples. I have everything already and my kettle will soon to be electric too so temps can be maintained well without turning the propane on and off. In the tun I have a bazooka tube.
 
That would be RIMS, and it is a viable option if you really want to baby sit your burner. You could also direct fire a kettle mashtun and recirculate. If you already have a pump, you can do a traditional RIMS tube and controller for pretty cheap. I would say less than $300 for the tube and controller total.
 
That would be RIMS, and it is a viable option if you really want to baby sit your burner. You could also direct fire a kettle mashtun and recirculate. If you already have a pump, you can do a traditional RIMS tube and controller for pretty cheap. I would say less than $300 for the tube and controller total.

I am going all electric with my kettle so will have the controller so that can maintain the temps. I am thinking that it's a good start until I get money to do up a proper RIMS since I have everything already. I'm mostly wondering too if a bazooka will cause problems and if it's really worth it to do this instead of batch sparging?
 
If your kettle will soon be electric, you can just go EBIAB and take the mash tun out .. recirc from bottom of kettle to lid.
 
If your kettle will soon be electric, you can just go EBIAB and take the mash tun out .. recirc from bottom of kettle to lid.

I'm not opposed to EBIAB but then I'd need to buy more things, ha... trying to get away with what I have. The EBIAB I'd need a nice bag and something to keep the bag off the element correct? Plus I'd have to build a hoist or something, that's not that big of a deal but is some cost too.
 
Yep - understood. If you have an exposed element in the kettle you prob want a false bottom above it until you have clear wort in the kettle ready to boil. Otherwise you risk scorching grain or bag. I already BIAB so it will be easy for me to chugger from lower kettle to lid for $50 to $100. I then need to decide whether to induct or insert an element. Either way I will go 220v electic in order to not wait 3 days to get to either 155 or 212 degrees.
 

I like that as well and do have a 9 gallon pot (can't do induction with) that would make a good HERMS, use it now for propane, but I'd need to put in another element, wire, etc in it. I could control it with a 120v which would be a slight bit cheaper and it's not a bad option down the road but super poor right now ha... It's good to have all the options though!
 
I liked his idea, I had some of the components all ready, so..........

1- I had a Copper Immersion Chiller that became my HERMS coil
2- I had an older Johnson Controller from a Kergerator
3- I had a 3 gal SS pot, that was left over from my stove top days
4- All ready had a pump

5 - all I had to buy was the Hot plate = $20 at Wally Mart

So it only cost me $20 to try it out.... worked real good for me

Allowed me to test my HERMS design with out spending hundreds on new pots
and SS coils, and fittings

just my 2 cents
Steve
 
I was wondering if anyone is doing this?
cheap-mash-recirculation.jpg

I found a blog (http://www.lootcorp.com/tag/herms/) with someone who was going to do it but there aren't any results of it. Searching around I can't find any other examples. I have everything already and my kettle will soon to be electric too so temps can be maintained well without turning the propane on and off. In the tun I have a bazooka tube.

This is a grant and is perfectly viable. The vessel that gets heated does not need to be very large. This is exactly how the Blichmann BrewEasy works.

The only complication that you need to watch for is a stuck recirculation. I believe Blichmann recommends that you be able to recirc at least 2 gallons per minute for effective temp control. I use a RIM's but have considered this setup for use specifically for a multi-step mash scenario. For single infusion, the RIMs does a great job of maintaining mash temp.

Another method is to use a counter flow chiller as your heat exchanger. Recirc the mash in one direction while pumping water from your HLT through the outer loop then back into the HLT. Through experimentation you can determine how much hotter your HLT needs to be to maintain mash temp (due to heat losses through the plumbing).
 
Another method is to use a counter flow chiller as your heat exchanger. Recirc the mash in one direction while pumping water from your HLT through the outer loop then back into the HLT. Through experimentation you can determine how much hotter your HLT needs to be to maintain mash temp (due to heat losses through the plumbing).


Ah now that might be cool... but would require 2 pumps.
 
Got a question about the amount of water I use and temps... I've been batch sparging for a while now and do it in 2 phases, mash at 152, rinse at 168.... with RIMS do you run the whole thing at 152 then jack the temp in the end to 168, then to the pot?
 
Ok one more question, I think I figured out the above on my own it's basically BIAB settings, so all the water goes in... anyhow.

I am planning this, 5 gallon batches, maybe 10 gallons if I can get away with it. I have a 15 gallon electric kettle, a march pump, and an old 9 gallon pot/tun w/ a false bottom with that I had around. I was thinking I could mash in the 9 gallon, gravity that to the kettle, keep that at a set temp then send it via the pump back to the tun lid. Keep that going for an hour then sparge it out for whatever time. My element in the kettle is pretty high (bought it used and installed) it's above the 3 gallon mark, which leads me to my question, will there be enough liquid in there to keep the temp up, without frying my element and still be ok with the mashing? Or should I not bother with all that?
 
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