Help with keezer collar design

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MystralHawk

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Good evening everyone!

I'm in the process of building my keezer out of an old Danby DCF550W 5.50 ft^3 freezer.

I've been doing tons of reading and research. However I can't seem to find anything on is deciding the thickness of the wood to build the collar and how that impacts the lid.

For example, I see a lot of people using 2x4s to glue to the frame of the freezer. However I haven't seen people mention how they address matching the gasket of the lid to seal with the collar.

The reason I bring this up is because the freezer I'm using has (what I think) an odd sealing surface.

Here's the body of the freezer, it only has a 1-3/8" lip before it starts curving down.
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Then, the lid has a 5/8" lip before reaching the gasket.

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So I'm wondering what are my choices for wood. I'd really like to make the collar overhang/bump out possibly like this keezer here.

However I'm not sure if it's best to rip out the gasket of the lid just to simplify my choices (e.g., rip out the gasket, build whatever size collar and use the gasket or weather stripping to seal).

Thank you in advance!!!
 
My Fridgidare had a similar angled lip. I thought of shaving the bottom of my 2x6s to form to the shape better. After a few beers I realized that I don't have the tools, skill set or patience to be that picky. What I was going for was a air tight seal. A over use ot silicone covered that. Plus I layered the inside of the collar with pink foam board and sealed it with aluminum tape...so yeah..that worked well.

The seal on the lid sits fine on the flat top of the boards.

So far so good.

I chose not to over think it and just get it together so I could get my beer in there.
 
Thanks! So I have an idea of how to achieve a sealing surface for the bottom half, but my contention is the lid. How did you ensure the lid sealed well? My concern is that using a 2x4 for example won't allow for a nice right seal since half the gasket may be on the wood while half might not be. I'm not sure if it's better to have the lid seal sit on the wood, or will I need to address it an alternative way.

Thanks for your reply and help!
 
I built my collar with 2x8 and I just used a ton of silicone to hold the collar in place. The factory seal seals against the top of the collar. Works great. KISS!!
 
I thought my seal would sit odd as well but it sits and seals just fine. I had the thought if it wouldn't that I could add additional weather stripping on one side of the board. Wasn't needed.
 
I used 2x8 for the collar and for an extra seal, I added 1" by 1/8th self adhesive weather stripping to the top of the wood. The top of freezer sat nicely on that, than I screwed the hinges to the wood. I have had no problems.

Kezzer1.jpg
 
I used stained + varathaned 2x10. It still clashes with the white, but at least it's sealed. Couple beads of silicone to seal with the freezer body, and have faith in the lid seal on the wood.

Since I was a little concerned about the collar falling off when the lid is open I opted to install a couple of these plates to the back of it. Using the existing screw holes in the freezer and regular wood screws I can sleep easy knowing that collar isn't going anywhere.
 
Thank you everybody so much for your help!

So to follow up, would it be easier to remove the existing gasket on the lid and just build a 2x4 collar frame and use some weather stripping on top? Or do I can I use a 2x4 frame and have the gasket partially sit on the lid? Will the lid gasket partially sitting on the 2x4 collar be enough of a seal?

Thank you everyone so much for your assistance! I'm really excited to get started on the build!
 
Once your collar is built just try sitting your lid on top and have a look. I filled 6 of my 5Gal kegs to use as weight when adhering my collar to the freezer...when I removed them off the lid I took a real good look at the seal between the lid and collar....everything was flat and fine. I wouldn't remove the seal from the lid just yet and you most likely will not have to. You can always modify your collar by a simple cut before adhering it.

Otherwise just bend a piece of solder or coat hanger to the shape of your freezer then cut the top and bottom of your wood to match. <Skills and Tools Required>
 
I just bought a 2 year old freezer from my sister--in-law and was thinking about turning it into a kezzer. Is it necessary to build a collar? Can i just drill through the front? What are the advantages other than cosmetic?

Until i decide what to do, it will remain a open when i need beer keggerator. I would be nice to put facets on it eventually.
 
Building a collar reduces the risk of potentially drilling through any cooling coils. Also it allows you to revert the keezer back to a freezer by simply removing the collar.
 
^^^ Thread jacking. ^^^

--- Yes, just wildly drill through the front of it ---



For me the collar added the height I needed for my 10Lb tank with reg to clear the closed lid when placed on the hump......and to allow for taps to be out the front.....instead of widly drilling through freezer lines on the front wall and destroying the function of the unit. If I only wanted five kegs I could have put my CO2 tank on the freezer floor and just used picnic taps....
 
I recently built a 2x8 collar. For a mix of economy and good looks I used 2x8 pine for the back board and 1x8 pine for the sides and front which were then mated with 1x8 red oak for the outer (pretty) side to add up to the 2" nominal thickness. Covered all on the inside, with some overlap, with pink foam insulation and radiant barrier material taped down with metal tape. It holds at 35* with little running in my 100* + garage.

When I was looking for the seal for the collar to freezer gap I found something at Lowe's called a camper/shell seal. It is normally used to seal a camper or shell to a pickup truck bed. This stuff is the perfect lower seal for a keezer.

Here is a link to the seal: http://www.lowes.com/pd_66789-81-02352___
 
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