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michael.berta

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So I need to convert an extract ESB recipe to all grain. I don't have any brewing software because I am a lazy bastard. Here is the extract version:

Malts:
6.6 LBS Amber LME
12oz 80L Crystal Malt
4oz Biscuit Malt
1/2oz Black Pattent

Hops:

1.4oz Northern Brewer 60 mins
1oz UK Kent Goldings 5 mins

Yeast: Wyeast 1968 London ESB.

OK so I want this to be a 10 gallon batch with a target OG of 1.055 and a final gravity in the area of 1.012-1.016. I want the IBUs to be in the area of 30-35

I was thinking something along the lines of this for a 10 gallon batch:

Malts:
18LBS British 2 row pale malt
24oz 80L Crystal Malt
8oz Biscuit Malt
1oz Black Pattent

Hops:

oz AA% Time IBU
UK Kent Goldings 2.5 5 60 21.9
UK Kent Goldings 1 5 30 6.9
UK Kent Goldings 0.5 5 15 2.2
UK Kent Goldings 0.5 5 1 0.9

I want to use UK Kent Goldings as the single hop because I ordered a pound of them from Midwest and will need to use them. I like the speciality grains from the original extract recipe so I am inclined to keep those. I basically just need to know the amount of British 2 row to use to get the OG up to 1.055 for a 10 gallon batch.

I used nottingham yeast when making Ed's Haus Pale Ale recently and I like that yeast so much I might use it again but am open to suggestions on the yeast, malts, or the hops.

I'm planning on doing a single infusion mash at about 152 degrees for 60 minutes and batch sparging.

Thanks,

Mike
 
According to Promash, with your estimates, you will end up with an OG of around 1.056, assuming 75% mash efficiency on a 10 gallon batch.
 
First, there are any number of free online calculators which will accomplish your goal without difficulty. Answering questions borne of a lack of knowledge/experience is one thing; answering questions borne of self-confessed laziness is another. Some people might take umbrage at that. At least have the dignity not to confess next time. ;)

Now, according to my copy of ProMash, your original 5-gallon recipe clocked in at )G 1054, SRM 16, IBU 55 (using the 9% average AA% for Northern Brewer).

The problem with converting the original recipe is the Amber extract. Even if I knew the manufacturer, I wouldn't know how it was made 'amber' - through crystal malts, munich malt, roasted malts, brewing caramel, or a combination of all or several. I'm willing to wager that it turned out differently depending on which Amber extract chosen. Without knowing that, it's not really possible to exactly match it with an all-grain grist.

But you're on the right track to get close.

Now, hops. I'd not waste EKG on bittering charges. If they're in pellet form, just keep them sealed up; they're not going to go bad so quickly as all that. If they're whole-flower, you're right, though I hate you for having a full pound. ;)

I'd continue to use Northern Brewer in this beer, maintaining the same hops profile as before. Use one of the online calculators to get your IBUs in line with amounts.

As for yeast, a closer dry yeast substitute for Wyeast 1968 is S-04 or Windsor. Nottingham will ferment too dry, comparatively speaking. You want something relatively under-attenuating, flocs well, and gives lots of yummy fruity esters. Windsor is admirable in that respect, and so is S-04; I've used Windsor more than S-04, so I know its characteristics better.

Cheers!

Bob
 
First, there are any number of free online calculators which will accomplish your goal without difficulty. Answering questions borne of a lack of knowledge/experience is one thing; answering questions borne of self-confessed laziness is another. Some people might take umbrage at that. At least have the dignity not to confess next time. ;)

Now, according to my copy of ProMash, your original 5-gallon recipe clocked in at )G 1054, SRM 16, IBU 55 (using the 9% average AA% for Northern Brewer).

The problem with converting the original recipe is the Amber extract. Even if I knew the manufacturer, I wouldn't know how it was made 'amber' - through crystal malts, munich malt, roasted malts, brewing caramel, or a combination of all or several. I'm willing to wager that it turned out differently depending on which Amber extract chosen. Without knowing that, it's not really possible to exactly match it with an all-grain grist.

But you're on the right track to get close.

Now, hops. I'd not waste EKG on bittering charges. If they're in pellet form, just keep them sealed up; they're not going to go bad so quickly as all that. If they're whole-flower, you're right, though I hate you for having a full pound. ;)

I'd continue to use Northern Brewer in this beer, maintaining the same hops profile as before. Use one of the online calculators to get your IBUs in line with amounts.

As for yeast, a closer dry yeast substitute for Wyeast 1968 is S-04 or Windsor. Nottingham will ferment too dry, comparatively speaking. You want something relatively under-attenuating, flocs well, and gives lots of yummy fruity esters. Windsor is admirable in that respect, and so is S-04; I've used Windsor more than S-04, so I know its characteristics better.

Cheers!

Bob



Thanks Bob. The real issue is that I have a mac and I don't think beer smith works on mac yet. So I need to load windows on my mac and then install it. I haven't seen the free caluclators. I'll have to find and check those out.

My EKG are whole flower. :mad: I'll use S-04 since it is cheaper than Wyeast 1968. The amber extract is "generic" so who knows what the hell is in it!
 
Dude. A full pound of whole EKG. I am full of hate and venom.

Okay, it's just envy. :D

Hit up some of the online calculators; you'll find them invaluable until you can get a more powerful standalone app.

Bob
 
Mash it higher and shorter.

I'd do at least 158-160 for 45 minutes only.

With all due respect, I'd mash cooler. Ray Daniels recommends 149 - 151F for Bitters, with a thick mash (1 qt water per # grain). With this mash thickness, I mash for 60 minutes at 151 - 152F and get excellent results.
Reducing the mash thickness to 1.25 qts per #grain produces a very thin tasting beer.

-a.
 
Amber extract is always a puzzle to convert, but I would add a pound of C20L, in addition to the extra C80L you have planned. I would also mash around 150F, an ESB should be on the dry side.
 
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