I am building a very simple system. 15 gallon kettle with one 5500W heating element. I have an Auber DSPR120, a 40 amp SSR, and one RTD sensor. I can’t find a diagram for anything like this. Everyone I find has like 3 PID’s and a pump and lights and stuff. Can anyone help me with a wiring diagram? I only want a switch to turn power on to the controller and another switch to turn power on to the element. Thanks for any help.
Help with controller build.
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Mybuddypete
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The DSPR120 has a basic wiring example in the instructions on page #6. Just add a switch for turning off the element between [6] on the EZBoil and [4] on the SSR.
staticfritz
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This is pretty darn close
This is about as simple as you can go. You don't really need to switch the power to the EZBoil, just let it come on when you plug the controller into the outlet. If your controller is hardwired to the building wiring, then you should probably switch power to the EZBoil, but then hardwiring the controller is probably a code violation, so shouldn't really be done. The element firing light is useful for insuring the correct operation of the SSR, and detecting when/if it fails, so I highly recommend it.
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Br3w4u
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This is about as simple as you can go. You don't really need to switch the power to the EZBoil, just let it come on when you plug the controller into the outlet. If your controller is hardwired to the building wiring, then you should probably switch power to the EZBoil, but then hardwiring the controller is probably a code violation, so shouldn't really be done. The element firing light is useful for insuring the correct operation of the SSR, and detecting when/if it fails, so I highly recommend it.
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So I wired everything up like you have in the diagram “minus the light, sorry” and the hot leg coming from the SSR to the outlet that powers the heating element will not trip my GFCI. If I test the line at the connection to the leviton switch before it enters the SSR it trips. The other side that doesn’t pass through the SSR will trip just fine. I hope this isn’t too confusing but do you have any idea why it does that or what I did wrong?
How are you testing your lines?
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Br3w4u
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http://www.acmetools.com/shop/tools...kUlESUkV4-ZXD47C1veiHbjvHj2o3SysaApyGEALw_wcBHow are you testing your lines?
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Not too familiar with that type of tester, but if it draws more than about 4mA from the circuit under test, it will trip a GFCI. Given that it has a GFCI test function, that would seem to imply that it shouldn't trip a GFCI unless the "GFCI Test" button is pressed. You might want to test the tester in a wall GFCI socket to see if it works correctly. If testing between hot and ground, it should not trip the GFCI until you press the test button, and then the GFCI should trip. If testing between hot and neutral, I don't think you can trip the GFCI even if you press the test button.
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Br3w4u
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Yeah the tester works fine. I went ahead and finished installing the heating element in the kettle and I plugged it in and tested the connections at the heating element end. It trips just fine. I don’t get it but I guess it works so I’m gonna leave it alone. Thank you for your help. I will post some pictures on a new thread later.
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Br3w4u
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https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/my-simple-3-wire-electric-brew-rig.644637/Not too familiar with that type of tester, but if it draws more than about 4mA from the circuit under test, it will trip a GFCI. Given that it has a GFCI test function, that would seem to imply that it shouldn't trip a GFCI unless the "GFCI Test" button is pressed. You might want to test the tester in a wall GFCI socket to see if it works correctly. If testing between hot and ground, it should not trip the GFCI until you press the test button, and then the GFCI should trip. If testing between hot and neutral, I don't think you can trip the GFCI even if you press the test button.
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