Help Understading Porter Recipe

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PCharles

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To better understand the brewing/beermaking process I've been reviewing several recipes. I have a question about the one I was looking at today. This is a Porter (Malt Extract Version). I obtained this from the NorCal website. Here is a list of ingredients.

Ingredients List:
○ .5 lb English Chocolate Malt
○ .5 lb Crystal 40l
○ .25 Black Malt
○ 1 lbs Golden Light DME
○ 1.5 lbs Amber DME
○ 1 can (3.3 lbs) Briess Dark LME
○ 2 oz Fuggle Hops (60 Mins)
○ .5 oz Willamette Hops (15 Mins)
○ 5 Teaspoons Fermax
○ 1 vial WLP005 British Ale Yeast

In the instructions, the dried malt extract is added to the boil pot. I want to make sure I understand each of the items in the ingredients list. I noted that several items are identified as DME. These are the dried malt extracts right?

I also see that there is an item I can't find in the procedure. This is the 1 can of (3.3 lbs) Briess Dark LME. When would that be added?

Instructions also tell me to check the initial SG, but there is no information of what the SG should be. There are no instructions to add sugar up front. I figured if the SG fell short that sugar might be added to assure alcohol content in the final beer.

I tried to put a link to the recipe, but it kept directing me to another location. The full procedure can be found on NorCals website under their recipes.

Thanks for assitance in better understanding this brew process. I don't have a mash tun and may give a procedure like this a go.

Thanks,
PCharles
 
Not sure what the NorCal website is.. I'd like to know. Is it the company in Redding? If so.. they seem like a great shop. I'd call or email them for the expected OG and other details.

Is THIS The Kit?. Looks about the same.

I assume this is for a 5 gal batch? You can start off with boiling 3 gal's of water and adding the different grains in a nylon or muslin bag for the required time.. 20-30 minutes. You can pull and discard after that.. I'd drain them on a colander over the pot.. but, suggestions say don't squeeze. Add all or most of the DME and stir very well to break up all the rafts of sugars till dissolved. Keep an eye on the pot as it can boil over quickly. After the hot break subsides you are good. I keep a spray bottle of water on hand to spritz the huge foam until it dies down. You can add the LME either at the beginning or end of the boil as it's already sterile.

Dump your grain waste or save for baking. Then add the hops per schedule to that bag.

Someone might be able to do the calcs for your OG.. I don't have the software set up.. I'll bet it's around 1.040.. maybe a bit higher. Anyhow, pull a sample.. enough to float the hydrometer and let it cool to ~60* and record the reading. You'll take another reading in about 7-10 days. Record that. Take another about 3 days later. If it's stable.. it's done. Ya might want to let it sit in the primary for another week or two if you can stand it. Then bottle per instructions.

Hope this is some help.
 
Yes, dme is dry malt extract.
I always add LME with 15 mins left in the boil. I turn off heat, add LME, dissolve and return to heat. This helps avoid carmelization of the extract.
Also, I know the recipe calls for darker extracts, but I've found those don't ferment as well as lighter extracts. For dark beers, I would recommend light extract for the base and specialty grains (chocolate, caramel, etc.) for the dark colors and flavors. Just my $.02 there.
As far as OG, plug the grain bill (extracts and grains) into software.... That should give you a target OG to shoot for.
You've found a great site, there's a ton of info here to get ya started. Best of luck!!
 
Bill,

Hope this link works.

NorCal Brewing Solutions

There is a link to their recipes.

I have a copy of the procedure and it is pretty much complete. If you read my original thread you will see the specific questions I have about the procedure.

The first is about the DME. The second is about the Briess Dark LME. The third is about the SG.

Thanks
 
I wouldn't boil the grains though. Just steep them in 160 -180F water in the bag. No problem with squeezing IMO. You can add the DME at the beginning of the boil. Add the LME in the last 10 minutes of the boil and stir so it doesn't sit on the bottom of the pot and burn.
 
I wouldn't boil the grains though. Just steep them in 160 -180F water in the bag. No problem with squeezing IMO. You can add the DME at the beginning of the boil. Add the LME in the last 10 minutes of the boil and stir so it doesn't sit on the bottom of the pot and burn.

Thanks Seabass
 
Thanks for all the feedback guys.

I was wondering if the DME and LME contain most of the sugar for a recipe/procedure such as this?

Recently I attended a national learn to brew event. 4 guys had their all grain rigs set up. All had mash tuns. None of the guys used DME or LME to the best of my knowledge.

I'm starting to think that the grains in this procedure are mostly for taste/flavor/aroma and that the DME and LME provide the sugar for the fermentation.

This review is part of my learning procedure. I currently have two kit beers. My Christmas beer is in progress and my Premium Bitter is still in the can. I hope my next project will be similar to the one I'm looking at here. As my knowledge base builds up I expect to make my own Mash tun.

PCharles
 
You've got it right. You're doing an extract batch, so all of the sugars come from the extract while the grains are for flavor and color.
 
Thanks fellow fermenters! I've learned something today and that is good. If you have a favorite source for grains and or extracts, please pass it on.
 
Thanks fellow fermenters! I've learned something today and that is good. If you have a favorite source for grains and or extracts, please pass it on.

If you're planning on mail order, check out Midwest Supply, they have almost everything you'll need and good prices. I've also heard Austin Homebrew Supply is great, but never ordered through them.
 
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